New Taipei Travel: Yehliu Geopark ~ North Taiwan's Vanishing Beauty

Travel Date: 2018/07/28

Another week, another opportunity to explore a new place. We truly travel a lot around Taiwan, and this country never fails to impress with its unique and beautiful locations. One of these special places is the Yehliu Geopark, known for its fascinating rock formations. In addition to Yehliu, other famous spots in the area include Elephant Trunk Rock and Heping Park.

Yehliu Geopark (野柳地質公園) 

Yehliu Geopark is an interesting place with numerous rock formations that make you feel like you're on another planet. It's a very popular destination for travelers, and parking spaces were filled everywhere. I noticed a significant number of foreigners, probably more than Taiwanese visitors. Some people even wore traditional Japanese clothing for a photoshoot here.

The Yehliu peninsula is approximately 1.7 km long and 50-250 m wide. The rock formations were created around 25-10 million years ago. The park's landscape is continually changing due to the impact of sea erosion. The coastal line is perpendicular to the structure line, and the unique landscape of Yehliu Geopark is renowned worldwide. The distinct features are shaped by the forces of wave erosion, rock weathering, tectonic movement, and crustal movement.

The stone formations have names based on their shapes. For example, you can see formations like Ice Cream Rock, Elephant Rock, Mushroom Rocks, Peanut Rock, Honeycomb Rocks, Weathering Rings, Candles Rocks, Princess Head, and the most famous of all, Queen's Head.

The name Yehliu has an interesting story. In the past, people relied on fishing for their livelihoods. During rice transportation, locals used sharp bamboo tubes to store rice. They would make a hole in the tube so that rice could easily slip out, which they would then collect later. Rice traders often complained that the rice had been "stolen" by savages. "Savage" is pronounced as "Yeh" and "stolen" as "Liu" in Mandarin, which led to the name Yehliu.

See also: Laomei Green Reef

See also: Shen'au Elephant Rock

     

The view at Yehliu Geopark is truly breathtaking. The water appears very clean, but due to the large waves, swimming is prohibited. Even as you walk around, you will notice red lines and signs indicating areas that should not be crossed. Violators of these rules will be fined. The sunshine was extremely strong during my visit, and with the temperature reaching 37 degrees, my skin turned red. By the way, the stone formations only reveal their true beauty when viewed from the proper angle.

The decomposition of earth rocks due to direct contact with the atmosphere is known as weathering. Atmospheric conditions such as heat, cold, ice, and pressure can transform rocks into sand, mud, soil, and other forms. Weathering affects not only rocks, soil, and minerals but also wood and artificial materials. Yehliu Geopark experiences the influence of the northeast monsoon and wave erosion for six months each year.

The bottom of the sea cliff is often eroded by waves, leading to the formation of notches. These notches can further develop into sea caves. Lover's Cave, which is the largest sea cave formed by erosion, is found here. As the sea notches are continuously eroded by seawater, stones eventually collapse.

Sea erosion and weathering have also created many potholes, often filled with seawater. Some of these potholes even house small fish and other aquatic creatures. Near the coastline, you may also notice rocks resembling candles.

Yehliu Geopark features two cuestas, which are hills with steep slopes on one side and gentle slopes on the other. In geological terms, cuestas refer to ridges where hard sedimentary rocks cover softer layers. The cuesta that ends in the sea is called Gueitou Mountain, while the one near the park is known as Big Cuesta. When looking down into the sea, you can also spot a row of rocks resembling tofu. From the pavilion, you can enjoy a panoramic view of the entire Yehliu Geopark.

As you walk through Yehliu Geopark, you may also come across many remains of animals or plants preserved within rocks. Fossils are the preserved remains, impressions, or traces of any living thing from past geological ages. They can include bones, shells, exoskeletons, imprints of animals in stone, objects trapped in amber, wood, coal, oil, and DNA remnants. Remains are considered fossils if they are over 10,000 years old. Fossils are formed when organisms are buried and minerals in groundwater replace the materials in bones and tissues, creating replicas or impressions of the original organisms or their tracks.

Initially, I overlooked the fossils and only took one picture. However, after leaving the park, I discovered a map and explanations about the fossils. I immediately regretted not taking more pictures where there were numerous fossils clustered together.

Here are some photos of the Honeycomb Rock, Ice Cream Rock, and Pineapple Bun formations. Honeycomb rocks and weatherings feature numerous holes of different sizes, resembling a honeycomb structure. The shape of these formations can change depending on the viewing angle, so I had to walk around to find the best perspective. It was a delightful experience observing all these unique stone formations.

   

Address:

207新北市萬里區港東路167-1號野柳地質公園

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Yilan Travel: Dolphin's watching near Guishan Island

Travel Date: 2018/07/14

It's our second day in Yilan, unfortunately, it was time for us to head back home. However, before leaving, we took a ferry ride to explore the sea and have a chance to see dolphins, whales, and the beautiful Guishan Island. The ferry departed from Wushi Fishing Harbor, providing a view of the island from the sea. Guishan Island is located just 10 km away from this harbor.

During weekends, visitors have the opportunity to travel to the island and explore the old village. However, the number of tourists allowed is limited in order to preserve the natural environment. Although we didn't have the chance to visit the island itself, we did take a trip around it.

After observing Guishan Island, the ferry ventured further into the sea in search of whales and dolphins. The surrounding waters support a rich ecosystem that attracts these marine creatures. Fortunately, we were lucky enough to witness a significant number of them. The offshore islands of Taiwan and the Pacific Ocean are volcanic islands, which contributes to the stunning colors of the water in this area.

Although the ferry ride took nearly two hours, the waves were quite strong. I wanted to take pictures, but I was too afraid to walk around when everything was shaking. However, staying on board allowed me to experience the sea water splashing everywhere. It was a truly remarkable time in Yilan, and I will definitely miss the eastern part of Taiwan.

Guishan Island (龜山島)

Guishan Island is an abandoned island located 10 km east of Yilan. It is the only active volcano in Taiwan, with its last eruption occurring in 1785. The island was initially known as Wushiyu (五獅嶼), which means "Five Lion Islands" in Chinese, due to its resemblance to a floating turtle. It measures 3.1 km wide from east to west, 1.6 km long from north to south, with an area of 2.841 square kilometers and a coastline of 9 km. The highest point on the island reaches 401 meters above sea level. Guishan Island is situated 9.1 km away from the Wushi Fishing Port on Taiwan's main island and falls under the jurisdiction of Guishanli, the head town of Yilan County.

Before 1977, Guishan Island was inhabited. Historical records indicate that fishermen from Fujian, China settled on the island in 1853. Although Guishan Island was privately owned, dating back to the Qing Dynasty, it remained uninhabited. Over time, fishermen would visit the island for rest, gradually establishing villages and making fishing their primary occupation. They also cultivated peanuts. However, due to challenges in daily living and inconvenient sea transportation, the fishermen eventually moved back to Taiwan Island.

In 1977, the Taiwanese government forced the residents of Guishan Island to relocate to the main island for military purposes. The Renze New Village was established in Daxi to resettle the islanders. The island was then designated as a shooting area for artillery testing. The arch of the Mazu Temple on the island was also relocated to Daxi. The soldiers stationed on the island transformed the temple into the "Guanyin Temple" and worshipped Guanyin Bodhisattva as their spiritual support. Since 1977, the island has remained uninhabited.

See also: Taipingshan Forest Railway

See also: Xinliao Waterfall

After the lifting of martial law in 1987, the Yilan County Government and the Head Town Office made several attempts to develop the tourist potential of Guishan Island. On December 22, 1999, the Executive Yuan reopened the island to the public. On August 1, 2000, Guishan Island was officially designated as part of the Northeast Corner and the Yilan Coast National Scenic Area, positioning it as a marine ecological park. In order to manage visitor numbers and prevent damage to the island's ecology, prior application is necessary to limit the number of people allowed to visit the island. General tourist groups wishing to enter Guishan Island must submit an application to the Northeast Corner of the Tourism Bureau of the Ministry of Communications and the Yilan Coast National Scenic Area Administration Office online, between 3 and 20 days prior to the scheduled landing date.

The island boasts various unique features, including saltwater hot springs, steaming fumaroles, and tunnels created during military activities in the 1950s. It is also an excellent area for whale and dolphin watching. There are ongoing volcanic activities such as hot springs and sulfur vents, making it an active volcanic island. The rock formations mainly consist of lava flows and volcanic clastic rocks of Andesite. Based on thermoluminescence dating and stratigraphic analysis, Guishan Island has experienced at least four eruptions in the past 7,000 years. The highest point on the island is Kameido Peak, reaching 398 meters above sea level. There are two lakes on the island, the smaller Guishou Lake (Guitan) and the larger Gumi Lake (Guizhou), as well as hot springs, cold springs, sea caves, and sulfur vents. The island's unique animal, plant ecology, and marine resources are abundant.

In 2019, volcanic activity was detected beneath the island, suggesting that volcanic eruptions are still possible in the area. On April 20, 2015, a series of earthquakes occurred in the waters off Yilan, causing slight collapses on the island's turtle-shaped head.

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The beauty of Yilan - Mountains and Sea

Travel Date: 2018/07/14

The old Jianqing Railway Trail was a fantastic place to visit. Now, it's time to explore another mountain and search for the Xinliao Waterfall.

Xinliao Waterfall (新寮瀑布)

The trail to the waterfall is approximately 1.5 km long, and the path is relatively easy to traverse. The entrance is free but limited to 350 people per day. All you need to do is register on your way in.

There weren't many people here, probably because we arrived late. You can admire the waterfall from the viewing platform, walk along the trail, or descend the stones to reach the pond and enjoy the water. The water is deep enough for swimming, although climbing up and down can be challenging. The wet stones are particularly slippery, so caution is necessary. Additionally, the water was quite cold.

My husband had the difficult task of carrying our baby. It would have been a nice moment for just the two of us, but it can be challenging to find someone willing to stay with a baby. 

See also: Taipingshan Forest Railway

Waiao Beach is a beautiful and pristine location, adorned with palm trees. From there, you can enjoy a view of Guishan Island. This was the last place we visited in Yilan before embarking on our 3-4 hour drive back home.

It's a perfect spot for surfing or swimming. Nearby, you can rent surfboards and enjoy the thrill of riding big waves. Additionally, you may witness people parasailing from the mountains and landing on the beach.

You can also take a stroll to the Waiao Visitor Center. There, you can savor a cup of coffee and experience a unique pedicure. You can immerse your feet in a water tank filled with small fish that nibble away the dead skin. However, please note that you need to pay if you want to use water to rinse off the sand.

Yesterday, we also visited a place with a nice view. From the mountains, you can watch the sea and the fishing harbor. Nanfangao is one of the largest fishing towns in Taiwan. Along the way, there are several places where you can stop and capture beautiful pictures. There is also a walkway leading to the beach, but unfortunately, it was too late by the time we arrived there.

Address:

Xinliao Waterfall: 269宜蘭縣冬山鄉新寮二路新寮瀑布
Waiao Beach: 261宜蘭縣頭城鎮濱海路二段6號外澳沙灘

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Yilan Travel: Jianqing Historic Trail ~ the Forest Railway of Taipingshan

Travel Date: 2018/07/11

Finally, we arrived in Yilan after a 4-hour drive from Hsinchu, and our first destination was the old forest railway. The parking space was conveniently close to the location, although it wasn't immediately obvious that we had arrived at the right place. In the high mountains, we didn't have a signal, but we simply followed the other people there. There were about 2-3 buses and a few cars, and suddenly a large group of people ventured deep into the forest.

Jianqing Huaigu Trail (見晴懷古步道) 

The Jianqing Huaigu Trail (見晴懷古步道) is built on a section of the old logging railway known as the Jiancing Line. This area used to be a major logging site during the Japanese occupation. The total length of the trail is 2.35 km, but due to damage caused by a typhoon in 2013, only 0.9 km is currently accessible to visitors. The trail is located in the Taipingshan National Forest Recreation Area in Yilan, which encompasses mountainous areas ranging from 500 to 2000 meters above sea level, covering 12,000 hectares. To enter the trail, you need a permit, which can be easily obtained at the inspection post by presenting your ID card or passport. The entrance fee for adults is 150 NTD.

The Taipingshan National Forest Recreation Area is situated in Yilan, spanning two townships: Datong and Nanao. This place was previously known as the Taipingshan Forest Farm. The forest recreation area was established in 1989 and covers an area of 12,631 hectares. During the logging period, Taipingshan was already recognized as one of the twelve scenic spots in Taiwan due to its natural landscapes, such as the sea of clouds and sunrise.

The Taipingshan forest farm was developed in 1924, and it was the first place to utilize the Putian-style ropeway technology, which eliminated the need for the laborious and inefficient climb of the mountain railway. This technology later found use in other forest farms, improving the efficiency of material transportation. However, it also limited passenger transportation on this route. After the logging activities were completed, it became challenging to transform it into a sightseeing railway.

See also: Guishan Island

  

The railway in the high mountains is truly impressive. It would have been a little scary if there were no people around. The mist enveloped everything, and the ground was slippery. The mountains were quite steep, and at times, I was afraid to walk, but my curiosity pushed me to explore as much as possible. However, it's important to note that it's not a very safe place for walking, especially for children.

If you're lucky, you might spot some wild monkeys. We saw two of them near the road! It was my first time seeing monkeys in the wild.

Below the railway, we also came across a small pond with crystal-clear and icy-cold water. Almost everyone stopped there to touch the water. In some areas, water flowed down from the high mountains, forming small waterfalls. Even though it's summer, it's advisable to wear a bit more clothing due to the coolness of the surroundings.

In the forest, you can also find old logging equipment, such as the railway switch system. There are a few point machines, sometimes located in places where the railway has already been removed.

For safety purposes, the trail features two suspension bridges. The soil and stones on the hills are unstable and prone to collapse. Personally, I was quite afraid to walk across those bridges or anything above the ground, so I continued along the narrow road on the mountain until there was no road left to follow. I wondered what else could be seen on the other side of the bridge, but people were still venturing there.

The weather in the mountains is pleasantly cool, and the presence of clouds adds to the mysterious atmosphere. The view of the mountains from the road is breathtaking, at least until the clouds completely obscure the road, making it difficult to drive. It's definitely one of my favorite places I've ever visited. Perhaps it's just an old railway, but it also holds a significant part of history.

 

Address:

267宜蘭縣大同鄉太平巷58之1號見晴懷古步道

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Taoyuan Travel: Sanmin's Bat Cave and Jiguopai Church

Sanmin Bat Cave (三民蝙蝠洞)

Travel Date: 2018/07/04

Mountains in Taoyuan, not far from the Shihmen Reservoir, hide a truly beautiful natural place called the Sanmin Bat Cave (三民蝙蝠洞). Just a week ago, we visited an abandoned theme park from which we also noticed the reservoir, but the rainy day prevented us from exploring further.

The Sanmin Bat Cave is a large natural cave located in Sanmin Village. The waterfall there is incredibly picturesque. The water pool near the waterfall can be as deep as 10 meters, attracting many people who enjoy swimming there. During the rainy season, the cave also becomes filled with water.

In the past, the cave was home to a large number of bats. After its discovery in 1931, people started hunting the bats. As the number of visitors increased, the bats were forced to migrate and eventually almost disappeared from the area.

See also newer post about Sanmin Bat Cave: HERE

Tuba Tribe Church (Jiguopai Church (基國派老教堂))

Nearby, you can also visit the Tuba Tribe Church (Jiguopai Church). This Presbyterian church was originally built in 1964. After the roof collapsed and caused damage to the building, it was reconstructed after 2000. The church is renowned as the most beautiful stone church in Taiwan.

During the period of Japanese rule, Christianity was restricted in Taiwan, and it wasn't until the end of the war in 1945 that the first Christian presence was established in Sanmin Village. In the early years, prayers were held in the homes of church members until the construction of the church could be completed.

Unfortunately, it's not allowed to go inside the church. Many people, including myself, were curious to see its interior. I managed to take only one picture through a window.

Address:

1. Sanmin Bat Cave: 336桃園市復興區東側五寮溪溪谷內
2. Jiguopai Church: 336桃園市復興區基國產業道路1號

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