Kites, Sand and... Surprises

On August 2, our trip led us from Toufen to Tongxiao to catch the famous Tongxiao Sand Sculpture Festival (which we have been to previously, blog post HERE). Back at home, the weather had been perfect - bright blue skies, warm sun. Yet when we arrived in Tongxiao, the sky turned ominously dark and it sprinkled rain just as the kite show was about to begin.

Thankfully, after a short shower, the clouds parted and the sky cleared just in time. The kites soared vividly in the crisp light above the towering sand sculptures. 

This summer, Taiwan has suffered unusually heavy rainfall and widespread damage (at least in my 8 years living here). Around late July 2025, torrential rains battered southern Taiwan, forcing over 3,000 residents to evacuate, shuttering businesses, and triggering school closures across Tainan, Chiayi, Kaohsiung, and Pingtung.

Just days earlier, Typhoon Danas struck the west coast in early July, killing two people, injuring more than 500, cutting power to around 660,000 households, and causing over NT$1 billion in damage. Authorities warned of continuing severe flooding and potential landslides across the island.

Right before the kite show we decided to grab some local beef noodle soup. Just a few bites in - a cockroach surfaced in my bowl. I recoiled in disgust. That nightmare presence destroyed my appetite and dampened my mood completely. I had hoped to film some footage of food and the festival, but after that incident, the mood was gone - no vlog, no content (I've a few shorts tho - YouTube).

This isn’t the first time I’ve found something in my food - there have been hairs, strings, or other random items, which I’d usually just take out and continue eating. But I guess a cockroach crosses the line. I’ve even eaten in places where cockroaches or rats were running around and I don’t mean open-air stalls, I mean indoors! But seriously, after eight years here, it feels like things in Taiwan are getting worse, not better. And it’s not just the food hygiene, the traffic is getting out of hand too.

Taiwan has been under scrutiny for recent food safety scandals. Just a few recent examples:

- In Taichung, a Cold Stone Creamery outlet was ordered shut after four people accidentally drank bleach mixed in with their ice cream toppings. 

- At the Breeze Xinyi branch of INPARADISE, 59 people fell ill between January 5–7, 2025. Over 70% had consumed raw fish.

- A popular Tan Zuo Ma Li outlet near the Kaohsiung Museum of Fine Arts was ordered to close for seven days after 22 diners reported gastrointestinal symptoms such as fever, nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea.

- In mid‑2024, authorities uncovered 11.4 tons of frozen meat—including goose meat that was up to 14 years past its expiration date—being relabelled and sold. 

What began as a promising, sunny travel adventure turned into a cautionary tale of unpredictability - both in the weather and in food safety, the experience left a bitter aftertaste.

Taiwan remains a place of incredible beauty and cultural richness - but current events suggest there's a pressing need for more vigilance in food hygiene and stronger enforcement of safety standards.

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Chasing Sand Dreams: A Sneak Peek at the 2025 Miaoli Tongxiao Art Festival

Travel date: 2025/06/28

The sun beat down as we hopped on our scooter, a 45-minute journey ahead of us with a singular mission: to witness the early stages of the much-anticipated 2025 Miaoli Tongxiao Art Festival’s sand sculpture exhibition. The promise of impressive sandy creations lured us out into the scorching heat.

Our journey began with a brief detour to the famed Baishatun Mazu Temple. As expected, the temple grounds were teeming with devotees—a vibrant wave of people making their offerings. While I had hoped to peek inside and experience its revered atmosphere, the sheer volume of the crowd made it a task for another day. “Next time,” I promised myself, as we hopped back on our scooter.

Continuing our ride toward Tongxiao, the landscape unfolded before us. Excitement bubbled as we knew we were getting closer to our sandy destination. With the official festival still about two weeks away (kicking off on July 12th), we were curious to see the progress of the monumental sand sculptures.

Upon arriving at Tongxiao Beach, we were greeted by a fascinating scene. Several impressive sand structures were already taking shape, their intricate details hinting at the artistry to come. However, it was clear that the artists were still hard at work, with a few sculptures yet to reach their final form. It felt like a privileged sneak peek—witnessing the birth of these temporary masterpieces.

One of the highlights of the upcoming festival is the ambitious 70-meter-long, 5-meter-tall continuous sculpture—a first for Taiwan—created by a collective of eight international sand sculptors. The sheer scale of this project was awe-inspiring. In total, 22 works are expected to grace the beach this year, all under the theme of “Carefree Sand City,” promoting messages of sustainability and peace. The festival will run from July 12th until September 14th.

An unexpected perk of visiting before the official opening was the distinct lack of crowds. Last year, we were among bustling beachgoers during the festival. While perhaps not as widely known as the sand sculptures at Fulong Beach, the Tongxiao festival boasts a significant advantage: it’s completely free! We also noted the ample parking space, making it easily accessible by car. For those relying on public transport, Tongxiao even has a train station, adding to its convenience.

Of course, being at the seaside, we couldn’t resist a short walk along the beach. The sand was warm—or rather hot—beneath our feet, and we dipped our toes into the water, a welcome respite from the midday heat. However, with the sun directly overhead, the lack of shade encouraged us to seek out our next objective: lunch!

Our quest for food led us to a familiar spot from a previous visit. The taste was just as good as we remembered. Despite the small size of Tongxiao town and its limited dining options, this particular place was buzzing with locals and visitors alike—a sure sign of its popularity.

With our stomachs happily filled, we considered visiting the nearby Japanese shrine. However, we learned that it’s currently undergoing renovations, so we decided to save that for a future trip once it’s fully restored.

We took a short scooter ride uphill, seeking panoramic ocean views. There’s a small park to explore—perhaps not offering the most spectacular scenery, but it does provide a 360-degree panoramic view of Tongxiao.

As the day began to wind down, we started our journey back home to Toufen. We made a quick stop once more at Baishatun, this time simply to admire the vast expanse of the ocean. The sun was so strong it hurt my eyes, though. Before finally heading home, we made one last beach stop in Zhunan, enjoying the coastal breeze before concluding our day trip.

Our early expedition to Tongxiao Beach offered an exciting glimpse into the 2025 Miaoli Tongxiao Art Festival. With the festival being free and easily accessible, it’s definitely worth marking your calendars for a visit between July 12th and early September. We, for one, are looking forward to seeing the finished masterpieces and experiencing the full vibrancy of the festival!

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A Hidden Gem in Zhunan, Miaoli: The Chen Family Residence and the Spirit of Joss Paper

Travel Date: 2025/06/07

Just 3km from our home, we recently visited a place filled with history, craftsmanship, and quiet beauty - the Chen Family Historic Residence (中港陳家古厝) in Zhunan Township, Miaoli County. We visited on a Saturday and, surprisingly, there were no other visitors. This isn’t a popular attraction, which makes it all the more special. If you enjoy history, architecture, and cultural heritage, it’s absolutely worth your time. The house is open to visitors, and guided tours are available for those interested in learning more.

You can visit the Joss Paper Factory (陳協和金紙行) and see firsthand how the paper is made - from attaching the silver foil, to painting it gold using a special edible dye imported from abroad (and very expensive), to the drying process, which takes one to three days depending on the stage of production.

The paper is placed outside to dry, so you can see bundles along the road and in front of the house. But once you enter the factory, there are tins and tons of paper ready to be decorated, cut, or assembled. There are four workers in total - or at least that’s what we saw, all of them elderly.

The third-generation owner is still working despite his age. He seemed quite happy to introduce the process, though he spoke in Taiwanese, and I couldn’t understand a single word... Thankfully, I brought my translator (aka my husband) with me!

Chen Family Historic Residence: A House That Breathes the Past

Located just 50 meters south of the famous Ciyu Temple, the Chen Family Residence is a beautiful Minnan-style Sanheyuan (three-sided courtyard home) built in 1937. Though surrounded by modern buildings today, the red brick courtyard gives off a quiet, nostalgic charm that instantly transports you back in time.

The home’s architecture blends traditional Minnan features - like red-tiled roofs and wooden beams with unique Japanese-era elements such as terrazzo walls, floral tile decorations, and circular “ox-eye” windows. The result is a rare and elegant structure that reflects Taiwan’s layered cultural past.

The house belongs to Mr. Chen Baocheng, who grew up in the neighborhood. After returning years ago and seeing the house in ruins, he made it his mission to restore it. Starting in 2013, he worked with local craftsmen and experts to revive the house. The restoration took two years, using traditional materials and techniques to bring the 1937 design back to life.

Today, the home isn’t a museum but a living cultural space, used for local workshops, exhibitions, weekend events, and school field trips. Visitors can see the Chen family history woven into fabric curtains, and read about their former joss paper business - a perfect bridge to the next part of our story.

Zhunan Handmade Joss Paper: A Vanishing Craft Still Alive in Zhonggang

Not far from the Chen family home is Chen Xiehe Joss Paper Store, one of Taiwan’s few remaining handmade joss paper shops. Run by Chen Kun-Hui, it carries a legacy dating back over 100 years - a time when joss paper played a vital role in Taiwanese spiritual life.

We learned about this rich tradition from an article written by Chen Mutian, highlighting how deeply intertwined joss paper is with the local identity of Zhunan, especially the Zhonggang (中港) area.

During the Japanese occupation, the Kominka Movement sought to suppress traditional Taiwanese customs, including joss paper burning. Making joss paper was banned, and anyone caught could face harsh punishment.

Chen Kun-Hui, holding a 12-pound mallet once used to secretly make joss paper, recounts how his family used recycled student notebooks and scrap paper to continue production in secret. Even tools had to be handmade or salvaged. A piece of rubber from a car tire was used to silence the sound of hammering - a quiet resistance through culture.

After natural disasters and wartime bombings, fear drove people to cling more tightly to spiritual practices, and joss paper became more essential than ever - even more valuable than cash at one point.

The Fanshe neighborhood, where the Chen Family Residence is located, was originally a Taokas indigenous village called Makaliwu. Later, Han settlers brought with them the art of joss paper. By the 1980s, over 380 joss paper factories thrived here, exporting spiritual currency across Asia.

Local stories abound, including one about a gambler who won over NT\$6 million and spent NT\$300,000 on joss paper and Taoist ceremonies to thank the gods. Business boomed so much that Chen’s father had to drive south at 4 a.m. to restock paper and resold it for double the price.

Traditional joss paper is made from bamboo pulp, which is both eco-friendly and spiritually favored. Each sheet is carefully stamped with red seals indicating its purpose:

- Gold paper (金紙) for deities.

- Silver paper (銀紙) for spirits.

- Joss money (紙錢) for general use.

Handmade sheets use tapioca starch glue, dried in the sun, and cut with bamboo knives. It’s a labor-intensive process - one bundle of 100 sheets can take dozens of steps, but the result is beautiful, meaningful, and biodegradable.

Though machine-made paper is cheaper (NT$10–15), Chen’s handcrafted stacks sell for about NT$40, barely enough to keep the tradition alive. “It’s better to burn good paper than a lot of bad paper,” Chen says. “Offerings should be sincere.”

Today, Chen’s philosophy echoes that of modern temples like Xingtian Temple in Taipei, which no longer uses incense burners or outdoor offering tables. The focus is on less burning, but higher quality offerings, a balance between cultural heritage and environmental responsibility.

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White Lilies and Ocean Wind: A Ride Along Miaoli’s Coast

Travel Date: 2025/06/01

There’s something magical about setting out on a scooter with no strict schedule - just the sun on your back, the scent of summer, and a vague destination in mind. One hot morning in early June, we left Toufen with a bottle of water, a camera, and a simple goal: to visit Houlong’s Cape of Good Hope (後龍好望角風景區) and hopefully catch the white lilies I’d heard were blooming on the hills.

We had been here long ago to enjoy the view, and it feels different nowadays. I remember hills covered in grass, but now a large part of the area has been turned into a designated car and scooter parking lot. A public toilet has also appeared here. No surprise this place is full of people these days.

The ride itself is part of the adventure. As you head toward the coast, the urban buzz of Toufen slowly fades into open fields, gentle hills, and the occasional roadside fruit or food stand.

And then, as we climbed the slope, there they were: elegant white lilies, blooming in clusters across the green hillsides. These lilies bloom from May to June, with the blue sea behind them and wind turbines slowly turning in the distance.

Keep in mind that driving a car here might not be as easy as you think—the road is quite narrow, and in several spots, we saw cars stuck because no one wanted to give way or reverse. At one point, we waited for about five minutes and saw over 20 cars coming down from Houlong, but it wasn’t until one finally backed up to make space for those leaving that we were able to pass and approach the hill. Even on a scooter, we were stuck there for a while.

The Houlong Cape of Good Hope Scenic Area is a special place. It’s not a massive tourist attraction, but that’s part of its charm. From the 360-degree viewing deck, you get an open view of the estuaries where the Houlong and West Lake Rivers meet the sea. There’s a peaceful rhythm in watching the wind turbines spin slowly above the water, and the sea seems to stretch endlessly westward.

Walking along the trail - once used to carry firewood, now fixed up with white fences and photo spots, we passed a few curious kids, a couple posing for selfies, and several food stalls.

If you're in the area, you can also wander into the old railway tunnels nearby - cool, dim passages now restored with lighting. It’s easy to imagine trains passing through them in another era. Some old bunkers and fortifications along the trail hint at the area’s past military use, adding depth to the otherwise carefree landscape.

Afterward, we took a short ride from the Cape of Good Hope to a nearby beach. It wasn’t a big tourist spot, just a quiet strip of sand and stones with a few locals around. There, another explosion of color waited: blanket flowers swaying in the breeze, their warm reds and oranges blazing like little suns among the grass. These cheerful blooms always feel like they were made for the heat. 

But I’ll be honest—the heat was no joke. Despite using sunscreen, my arms and shoulders ended up bright red. Lesson learned: never underestimate the Taiwanese summer sun, even if you’re just out for a short ride. No wonder nearly everyone else was wearing long sleeves and carrying umbrellas.

Still, sunburn aside, this trip was everything we needed - simple, beautiful, and refreshing. If you’re in Miaoli in late spring or early summer and looking for a place where nature, flowers, and the sea all meet in harmony, Houlong’s Cape of Good Hope is more than worth the ride. The sting of the sun was a small price to pay for the day’s rewards - flowers in bloom, quiet moments by the sea, and the simple joy of exploring Miaoli's coastal beauty.

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