Since our six-year-old started first grade in Taiwan this September, I’ve experienced firsthand just how rigorous the academic environment is here. As a Polish parent, I never anticipated just how intense it would be for such young children. It’s only October, and he’s already preparing for a big test—a *big* test for a six-year-old! This past week alone has been filled with numerous smaller tests, seemingly non-stop. To add to the stress, there’s a looming typhoon that could potentially cause school closures, so what does the school do? They assign extra homework to cover the days off!
In just one week, he’s been given a huge amount of work: usually, he has assignments in three textbooks (two pages each per day), but now he also has two extra A1-sized sheets to complete each day. I can’t help but think this is too much for a child his age. In fact, they’ve had to read since day one! The amount of work they’re given for these “off” days is overwhelming, and weekends and holidays are no exception—they all come with homework. Hearing from parents of older children, I worry about what winter and summer holidays will be like, as I’ve heard the homework load is enormous. So, when do they actually get free time? Next year, we plan to spend our winter break and Lunar New Year with family in Poland, but it seems we’ll have to carry lots of books and, instead of relaxing and enjoying time with family, we’ll be stuck doing homework!
This experience has shown me some surprising aspects of Taiwan’s education system, and as much as I respect the dedication to academics, there are things I just can’t get on board with. For one, school starts extremely early—our son has to be at school by 7:30 a.m., which is challenging for him. He rarely has time to eat a proper breakfast; sometimes he’ll manage just a small slice of bread or a banana before heading out, which I don’t think is enough for a full morning. Since he can’t bring food to school, he has to wait until lunch around noon. By the time he finishes after-school daycare around 5 p.m., he’s so hungry that he’ll eat two dinners within an hour of getting home. This can’t be a healthy routine for a growing child!
For a six-year-old, managing school and homework has become incredibly demanding. It’s a stark contrast to what I knew from Poland, where young children are given time to ease into academics without the stress of constant tests and heavy assignments. I don’t think we even had tests this early on, and elementary school in Poland doesn’t start until age seven, not six.
Is this rigorous routine worth it in the end? Kids seem to lose their childhood, growing up to become busy, overworked adults with little freedom until retirement. It’s no wonder that the rate of depression here is so high.
During the 10.10 long weekend (which wasn't truly a long weekend since Friday was a working day, but we took the day off), we visited Chiayi. Our adventure began in Fanlu Township, known for its persimmon production. I discovered something interesting: while Hsinchu is often recognized for its persimmons, particularly from Xinpu due to its unique sun-drying method, Chiayi actually has the largest persimmon production in Taiwan.
After exploring the persimmon processing, we headed to an indigenous village for a leisurely stroll. Later, we made our way to Chiayi City, where we revisited some famous landmarks, including the Chiayi Old Prison and Hinoki Village, a cluster of buildings from the Japanese era. We enjoyed a bike ride around the city, sampling the local delicacy of turkey rice and stopping by the intriguing turkey pedestrian crossing (stay tuned for more details on that!).
To wrap up the day, we rode our bikes around Chiayi Park, which is quite spacious and conveniently located near where we parked. It was a fun-filled day, but I must admit that Chiayi isn't particularly pedestrian or bike-friendly. Sidewalks are rare, so if you're not comfortable navigating roads alongside cars and scooters, this city might not be the best choice for you.
I've divided this trip into two posts. In previous one, I introduced the persimmons, while this one will cover attractions in Chiayi City. Be sure to check it out! [LINK]
Chiayi Old Prison (嘉義舊監獄)
The Chiayi Old Prison stands as a unique historical site in Taiwan, offering visitors a rare opportunity to explore a fully preserved prison complex dating back to the Japanese occupation era. Open to the public from Tuesday to Sunday with free entry and guided tours, the prison is not only a physical reminder of Taiwan’s past but also a culturally significant landmark that has been recognized as a national monument. For anyone visiting Chiayi, this site is a must-see, packed with history and symbolism.
Constructed between 1919 and 1922, the Chiayi Old Prison was built during Japan’s rule over Taiwan. While the prison endured damages from several major earthquakes during the 1920s and 1930s, it was repaired, and the complex expanded. After Taiwan was handed over to the Nationalist Government post-World War II, the facility was renamed "Taiwan Chiayi Prison" in 1947. By the 1990s, the prison had deteriorated, leading to its relocation to Lucao Township in 1994.
Initially considered for demolition, Chiayi Old Prison was declared a national monument in 2005, protecting it from destruction. A full restoration was completed by 2011, and the site now serves as the Prison Administration Museum, drawing both history buffs and tourists alike. Covering 3.66 hectares, the prison’s design reflects early 20th-century architectural sensibilities. A fan-shaped central platform serves as its core, with prison cells radiating outward. This layout not only showcased a practical use of space but was designed to enhance surveillance and control, illustrating how architecture was used to maintain order.
Among the 28 remaining buildings, visitors will encounter a variety of structures built from wood, brick, and reinforced concrete. The administrative section underwent various renovations over the years, including updates to the warden's room and other offices. The separation of male and female dormitories, reception rooms, and inspection areas reflect the hierarchical and highly structured life that existed within its walls.
The Chiayi Old Prison, having withstood earthquakes, societal transitions, and even near-demolition, now stands as a testament to Taiwan’s commitment to preserving its colonial heritage. This historic site is part of a broader cultural complex that includes the Prison Dormitory Group and Martial Arts Field, showcasing how this facility once functioned as a complete system.
For those interested in architecture, history, or Taiwan’s colonial evolution, a visit to the Chiayi Old Prison offers an immersive dive into the country's past. The experience of walking through the prison grounds reveals the transitions Taiwan has gone through, from its days as a Japanese colony to its modern-day identity.
Hinoki Village (檜意森活村)
Located in the East District of Chiayi City, Hinoki Village is Taiwan’s first forest-themed cultural and creative park. Spanning 3.4 hectares, this village celebrates Taiwan's forestry history from the Japanese occupation era while preserving the beauty of 29 historical buildings. Nestled in a tranquil environment, it offers visitors a serene atmosphere where culture, history, and nature converge.
The village's history is deeply intertwined with the development of the Alishan forestry industry, which began during Japanese rule. The Japanese built infrastructure to extract and process Alishan's rich timber resources, including the Alishan Forest Railway and the Chiayi Timber Plant. The village, constructed between 1914 and 1943, housed employees of the Taiwan Governor’s Office Forestry Office. Known as the Yinglin Institute, the dormitory group was designed as a traditional Japanese village, with homes and public facilities that provided staff and their families with everything they needed.
Hinoki Village's architectural charm comes from its traditional Japanese-style buildings, with wooden frames, tiled roofs, and quaint gardens. The historical value of these structures was recognized in 2005 when many of the dormitories were designated as Chiayi City Historic Buildings. Today, the village preserves 29 of these dormitories, offering a glimpse into the lives of forestry workers and officials during the occupation period.
Beyond its historical allure, Hinoki Village has transformed into a vibrant cultural and creative hub. Visitors can explore artisan shops, cafes, and galleries that showcase Taiwan’s cultural heritage and craftsmanship. The park regularly hosts workshops, exhibitions, and events that keep its cultural and creative energy alive. Whether you’re a history enthusiast, art lover, or simply in search of a peaceful retreat, Hinoki Village offers something for everyone.
Chiayi Park & Sun-Shooting Tower
The park was established in 1910, and was originally named "Chiayi Park. The name was changed to "Zhongshan Park" after the KMT government arrived in Taiwan but was reinstated to its original name in 1997.
Chiayi Park is located in the suburban area of eastern Chiayi City. It was first developed along the hilltop landscape, and later, vacant lands to the east and west were incorporated into the park. Bridges were constructed, and roads were built to enhance accessibility. The park now spans over 268,000 square meters and features tall, old trees, waterside pavilions, terrace houses, fish ponds, rockery decorations, and winding pathways that lead to secluded corners. The design of the park makes excellent use of the original natural landscape to create tasteful scenery and a free, unfettered ambiance.
The park is home to many historic sites, including the Martyrs' Shrine, Chiayi Tower, Fukang-an Monument, Bingwu Earthquake Monument, twelve ancient cannons, the Tan Ting-pho Easel, the Way of the Wall, Yijiangshan Monument, Confucius Temple, and the national treasure, the Alishan Forest Railway No. 21 steam locomotive. This makes the park a great place to visit for the general public. Additionally, the densely wooded forestry and agricultural research institute branches located in the northeastern corner of the park boast a wide variety of tropical plants and are well worth a visit.
Sun-Shooting Tower
Standing at 62 meters high, the design of the Sun-Shooting Tower was inspired by the giant trees of Alishan, with brownish aluminum stripes symbolizing the texture of the giant trees' outer surface. In the middle of the tower is a 40-meter tall "one-line sky," along with a bronze sculpture inspired by the "sun shooting myth" of the indigenous people. This beautiful myth symbolizes the heritage of humanity, reflecting the spirit of advancing towards the future while conveying positive meanings in a social and educational context.
At the entrance of the tower, a pair of copper sculptures of clouded leopards symbolize the tutelary god of Formosa. The Martyrs' Shrine is located on the bottom level of the tower, while the top features a café and a watchtower. The beautiful and eye-catching giant city flower—Bauhinia blakeana, or the Hong Kong Orchid Tree—sits on the inclined roof at the tower's tip, attracting the attention of passersby. Visitors can enjoy a panoramic view of the entire Chiayi City from the tower’s top, appreciating the picturesque scenery of the mountain city in one glance.
Chiayi Historical Relic Museum (Kagi Shrine (嘉義神社))
The Kagi Shrine in Chiayi is a fascinating site that represents both the cultural and historical evolution of the city. Originally a sacred Shinto shrine established by the Japanese during their colonial rule in Taiwan, it stands as a testament to the layers of transformation Chiayi has undergone—first under Qing rule, then during the Japanese occupation, and finally into its post-war modern identity.
Chiayi, home to the Indigenous Hoanya people, saw the arrival of Han Chinese settlers in the 16th and 17th centuries, which brought significant changes to the area. Under Qing rule, the city grew in importance as a port and a hub for settlers from Fujian Province. However, it was under Japanese colonial rule, following the First Sino-Japanese War (1895), that Chiayi underwent rapid modernization. During this period, the Japanese sought to develop Taiwan as a model colony, and Chiayi (then known as "Kagi") became central to this vision, especially in agricultural production, timber, and sugar industries.
The construction of the Alishan Railway was a key factor in boosting the local economy, allowing the efficient transport of resources like timber and agricultural products. As the city grew, so did its infrastructure, and the Kagi Shrine was constructed in 1915 to cater to the spiritual needs of the Japanese settlers, reflecting both cultural and religious influences.
Kagi Shrine’s Architectural and Cultural Significance
Initially built from Alishan cypress wood by master craftsman Mitsuru Ito, Kagi Shrine quickly became a cultural and religious center. It was upgraded just two years after its establishment, signifying its importance in the community. However, by the 1930s, the first generation of the shrine had suffered significant termite damage, necessitating a rebuild. The second-generation shrine, completed in 1943, was more robust and catered to the growing population of Chiayi, securing its status as one of Taiwan's three Minor National Level Shrines.
The architecture of Kagi Shrine was distinctly Japanese, employing traditional styles like irimoya-zukuri and shoin-zukuri, blending temple and residential design elements. The shrine’s use of cypress wood not only tied it to the local Alishan forest but also ensured it fit the aesthetic and spiritual needs of the Japanese community. Key architectural features included decorative roofing tiles like onigawara and hiragawara, which served both protective and ornamental purposes.
After World War II and the return of Taiwan to Chinese control, the shrine was repurposed into a Martyrs Shrine, commemorating the heroes of the Republic of China. Although much of the original shrine was destroyed by a fire in 1995, many elements, such as the Visiting Path (sando), stone lanterns, and komainu (lion-dog) statues, remain intact, preserving the site’s spiritual symbolism.
Present Day and Chiayi Park
Today, Chiayi Park, where Kagi Shrine once stood, is a popular cultural destination. The remnants of the shrine provide a glimpse into its former grandeur, with several key features like the stone lanterns, komainu guardians, and the Purification Fountain (chozuya) still in place. The Purification Fountain, dating back to 1945, is an especially significant element, symbolizing the spiritual transition from the profane to the sacred.
The Administration Office and Priests Hall, some of the best-preserved structures from the shrine, offer visitors a rare opportunity to experience the traditional Japanese architectural styles that dominated during the shrine’s peak. These buildings, with their thoughtful design adapted to Taiwan’s tropical climate, remain important cultural landmarks. The intricate craftsmanship, use of local materials like Alishan cypress, and the practical innovations (such as cement bases to prevent termite damage) all reflect the Japanese architects' responses to the challenges posed by Taiwan's environment.
The Purification Fountain (chozuya), built in 1945, remains one of the most authentic and well-preserved elements of the Kagi Shrine. Traditionally used for ritual cleansing before entering the sacred grounds, visitors would wash their hands and mouths to purify themselves spiritually. The fountain’s cypress roof reflects the skilled craftsmanship of the time, incorporating decorative details such as Gegyo—fish-shaped charms meant to protect the structure from fire, a significant concern in wooden buildings. These charms not only served a practical purpose but also added to the shrine's aesthetic and spiritual symbolism.
The Resting Pavilion, although altered over the years, retains its cement base and pillars, providing a shaded retreat for visitors. Originally designed to accommodate Chiayi's tropical climate, this structure offered a place for rest, reflection, or shelter from the sun. While the pavilion may no longer exist in its complete original form, these surviving elements still offer insight into how the shrine’s architecture was designed to blend function with comfort for visitors.
Today, Chiayi Park not only honors this rich history but also features modern attractions like the Sun-Shooting Tower and the Chiayi Park and Showa 18 Relic Museum, where visitors can explore exhibitions detailing the shrine's history. The park’s evolution from a religious center to a public heritage space encapsulates the broader transformation of Chiayi itself, blending its colonial past with its modern identity.
During the 10.10 long weekend (which wasn't truly a long weekend since Friday was a working day, but we took the day off), we visited Chiayi. Our adventure began in Fanlu Township, known for its persimmon production. I discovered something interesting: while Hsinchu is often recognized for its persimmons, particularly from Xinpu due to its unique sun-drying method, Chiayi actually has the largest persimmon production in Taiwan.
After exploring the persimmon processing, we headed to an indigenous village for a leisurely stroll. Later, we made our way to Chiayi City, where we revisited some famous landmarks, including the Chiayi Old Prison and Hinoki Village, a cluster of buildings from the Japanese era. We enjoyed a bike ride around the city, sampling the local delicacy of turkey rice and stopping by the intriguing turkey pedestrian crossing (stay tuned for more details on that!).
To wrap up the day, we rode our bikes around Chiayi Park, which is quite spacious and conveniently located near where we parked. It was a fun-filled day, but I must admit that Chiayi isn't particularly pedestrian or bike-friendly. Sidewalks are rare, so if you're not comfortable navigating roads alongside cars and scooters, this city might not be the best choice for you.
I've divided this trip into two posts. In this one, I introduced the persimmons, while the next will cover attractions in Chiayi City. Be sure to check it out! [LINK]
Yinbing Persimmon and Tea Collection (Fanlu Township Farmers' Association)
Nestled at the foot of Alishan in Chiayi County, Fanlu Township serves as a vital route for the indigenous Tsou people. The region is renowned for its expansive tea plantations, persimmon orchards, and diverse fruit trees. Each season - marked by winter dew, summer rains, spring blossoms, and autumn harvests - contributes to a vibrant atmosphere, aptly dubbed “Persimmon Season and Tea Country.”
The autumn and winter seasonal delicacies of Fanlu Township not only carry a deep cultural significance but also reflect the commitment of the Fanlu Township Farmers' Association to the quality and innovation of local specialty products. As Taiwan's largest persimmon-producing area, Fanlu Township benefits from its unique climate and soil, which yield sweet and flavorful persimmons. These persimmons are transformed through a special processing method into the highly favored persimmon cakes. On September 20, 2024, the Fanlu Township Farmers' Association officially kicked off the new persimmon cake processing season.
Founded in 1920, the association underwent several transformations. It was renamed in 1944 to the “Fanlu Village Agricultural Association,” and then divided into the “Farmers' Association” and “Cooperative Society” in early 1946. In 1949, it was officially renamed the “Fanlu Township Farmers' Association,” marking the beginning of its governance with the election of its first board of directors and supervisors, a tradition that has continued through 18 terms.
In 1989, the organization introduced high-mountain tea cultivation, providing farmers in the Xiding community with training in tea production techniques.
The Xiding community, situated within the Alishan mountain range, enjoys an ideal climate and geography for producing high-quality tea. Its commitment to sustainable practices, including water and soil conservation, has cultivated a thriving “tea garden ecology,” characterized by terraced landscapes that evoke a paradise. Locally sourced stone retaining walls create sturdy structures that have weathered natural disasters for decades, reflecting the tea farmers' respect for nature and their commitment to harmonious coexistence with the environment.
The association is committed to protecting farmers' rights, enhancing their knowledge and skills, promoting agricultural modernization, increasing production profits, improving livelihoods, and fostering the rural economy.
Their mission is to showcase the deliciousness of Taiwanese agricultural products through innovative industrial transformation and modernization, encompassing production, processing, tourism, and experiential services. They aim to captivate visitors with the boundless creativity of the farmers’ association while ensuring fair compensation for the dedicated farmers who cultivate this fertile land.
Fanlu Township is the largest persimmon-producing region in Taiwan. Historically, farmers shipped their persimmons to Hsinchu for processing, contributing to Beipu’s fame for persimmon cakes but often falling victim to price-cutting. To combat this, in 1997, the Fanlu Township Farmers’ Association began guiding local farmers in persimmon cake production techniques and equipment to process surplus persimmons locally.
Focusing on the core local agriculture of “persimmons and Alishan tea,” they developed the unique “Persimmon Fruit Ice Cream Series,” drawing inspiration from Liang Qichao’s celebrated Yinbing Studio Collection. This connection across time inspired the creation of our brand: the “Yinbing Persimmon and Tea Collection.”
Development of the Persimmon Industry
In 1997, the “Fanlu Township Farmers' Association Persimmon Cake Processing Station” was established, marking entry into persimmon cake production and sales.
By 2009, all processing equipment was upgraded to utilize indoor constant-temperature baking, adhering to stringent production standards that significantly improved both yield and quality.
Each autumn, the organization host a three-month-long “Persimmon Season” and “Persimmon Tea Township Exhibition,” promoting local consumption. This initiative empowers persimmon farmers to sell directly to markets, bypassing middlemen and controlling pricing.
In 2012, they transformed the traditional persimmon cake processing system into a “tourism factory model.” The factory now offers free guided tours for schools and organizations by appointment, allowing visitors to engage in DIY activities and fruit-picking tours that celebrate the unique charm of the persimmon industry while fostering food and agricultural education and preserving local cultural heritage.
In 2013, the “Yinbing Persimmon and Tea Collection” brand was launched, concentrating on key industries such as persimmons, Alishan tea, and patented persimmon ice cream products.
In the past, persimmon cake production relied on natural sun-drying, which was difficult to control due to unpredictable weather and external factors. To address these issues, after the establishment of the Persimmon Cake Processing Station in 1997, the association introduced modern temperature-controlled drying technology in 2007, ensuring that every persimmon cake is transformed into a golden, chewy, and honey-sweet delicacy in a stable environment. In addition to producing high-quality persimmon cakes, the association has also focused in recent years on developing agritourism, transforming traditional agriculture into a multi-faceted industry combining production and tourism. The Persimmon Cake SPA Workshop allows consumers to understand the production process and experience the traditional craftsmanship and cultural heritage of persimmon cake processing firsthand.
The interactive experiences at the Persimmon Cake SPA Workshop not only allow consumers to taste the local agricultural delicacies but also to appreciate the commitment and responsibility of the Fanlu Township Farmers' Association towards agricultural products. Visitors can experience the exquisite craftsmanship behind this seasonal treat up close. The Fanlu Township Farmers' Association continues to promote agricultural transformation and upgrades, expanding marketing channels, with the hope that more people will come to know and enjoy this local delicacy from the foot of Alishan.
Alishan Tsou Tribe
If you want to have a close encounter with adorable Sika deer, you don't need to go all the way to Nara, Japan! Alishan Zhu Lu Tribe has a deep connection with Sika deer, where you can not only feed the deer but also experience traditional archery, enjoy delicious Tsou cuisine, and watch indigenous performances.
The Zhu Lu Tribe was established after the devastating Morakot Typhoon in 2009, which forced eight Tsou tribes to relocate. The tribe consists of 156 households, with about 90% being Tsou people, forming the ninth Tsou tribe. The area was historically a hunting ground for Sika deer, and now it serves as a sanctuary for their conservation rather than hunting.
As you stroll through the village, you'll notice modern houses harmoniously integrated with family culture and arts, creating a unique and unified community atmosphere. The tribe aims to maintain livelihoods through cultural tourism, offering a variety of local delicacies and cultural experiences, inviting travelers to explore their vibrant community.
At the **Sika Deer Park**, which in Tsou language is called "veoveoana" (meaning "hunting ground for Sika deer"), you can engage in an educational experience about the history and significance of Sika deer. You’ll also get a chance to take photos and interact with the deer.
Ticket Information
Ticket Price: Adult 180NT
Business Hours: 09:00 AM - 05:00 PM (Closed on Tuesdays)
Feeding the Deer: Morning sessions at 10:00 AM and 11:00 AM; Afternoon sessions at 1:00 PM, 2:00 PM, 3:00 PM, and 4:00 PM
Traditional Archery Experience: Morning sessions from 9:30 AM to 12:00 PM; Afternoon sessions from 2:00 PM to 5:00 PM
DIY Experiences: Morning sessions from 9:30 AM to 10:30 AM; Afternoon sessions from 1:30 PM to 2:30 PM
Chukou Visitor Center (觸口遊客中心)
In 2001, in response to the growing tourism industry and increasing demand for domestic travel, the Alishan National Scenic Area Administration was established. It is responsible for the planning, construction, and management of tourism services in the Greater Alishan area. The aim is to boost tourism development while preserving natural resources.
Located along Provincial Highway 18, the Chukou Visitor Center sits on a flat, well-positioned area originally part of the Taiwan Sugar Corporation's Farm. The main building was completed in 2013.
Designed by architect Liao Wei-Li, the building harmonizes with the natural landscape.
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