Tracking Time: The Stories of Dajia, Taichung

When people think of Dajia (大甲), a bustling coastal district in Taichung, Taiwan, two things immediately come to mind: the legendary, whirlwind energy of the Mazu Pilgrimage and the fine craftsmanship of traditional Dajia rush hats and mats.

But there is another silent witness to Dajia’s growth - a place where cultural devotion, local history, and nostalgia intersect. Welcome to Dajia Railway Station, the busiest and highest-ranking hub on the Taiwan Railway (TRA) Coastal Line.

Dajia Station (大甲車站)

Whether you are a railway enthusiast or a traveler seeking the authentic soul of Taiwan, here is why Dajia Station deserves a prominent spot on your itinerary.

1. When a Station "Goes Mad" for Mazu

Every year during the third month of the lunar calendar, Dajia transforms. The world-renowned Dajia Mazu Pilgrimage - recognized by the Discovery Channel as one of the world’s three major religious celebrations - kicks off, and Dajia Station becomes the epicenter of a massive human tide. During the peak of the pilgrimage, tens of thousands of pilgrims flood the station. Historically, entire trains were chartered by pilgrim groups just to come here and pay their respects!

2. A Architectural Marvel of the 1960s

First opened as a humble wooden structure called "Dajia Ekki" (大甲驛) under Japanese rule in 1922, the station quickly outgrew its capacity as the local economy boomed. In 1966, the station was rebuilt into the reinforced concrete structure we see today. Unlike the sterile, boxy designs of modern renovations, Dajia Station features a lively, avant-garde facade composed of striking geometric triangular lines - a true architectural masterpiece of its era. 

3. The Lost "Sugar Railway" (糖鐵) Connection

Did you know that Dajia once boasted two railway stations? Long before the TRA arrived, the Sugar Railway (popularly known as the "Five-Cent Trains" or Wufen-che) set up a station here in 1912 to transport sugarcane and passengers. For decades, this small sugar railway served as a unique, independent "transverse railway" connecting the Mountain Line (Houli) to the Coastal Line (Dajia). While the highway boom led to its termination in 1970, the old sugar station site lives on in local memory, having served for years as the Fengyuan Bus Dajia Terminal.

4. Hidden Engineering Gems Nearby

If you take a train to Dajia, keep your eyes peeled for these two fascinating structural landmarks just outside the station: The Old Lower Da'an River Bridge. While a new bridge has since been built, the old historic bridge is beautifully preserved. 

Located about 0.7 km south of the station lies a 40-meter-long tunnel—the only one of its kind on the Western Trunk Line. It cuts directly underneath the Zhuangwei Creek. It's so short that if you blink, you’ll completely miss the fact that a river is flowing right above your train!

Dajia Zhenlan Temple (大甲鎮瀾宮)

The heart and soul of Dajia - and the reason the railway station floods with millions of people every spring - is Dajia Zhenlan Temple (大甲鎮瀾宮).

Located just a short, 5-minute walk down Shuntian Road from Dajia Station, it is one of the most prestigious, historically significant, and vibrant Mazu temples in Taiwan. While the temple is a bustling place of worship year-round, it becomes the center of the Taiwanese religious world during the Dajia Mazu Pilgrimage every third lunar month (usually falling around April). The statue of Mazu is placed in a palanquin and carried on foot for a grueling 9-day, 8-night journey spanning over 340 kilometers through four counties (Taichung, Changhua, Yunlin, and Chiayi) before returning home. Millions of devotees join parts of the march, sleep on temple floors, and offer free food and water along the route. It is widely considered the ultimate expression of Taiwanese folk religion and community spirit.

If you visit Zhenlan Temple, don't just look at the smoke from the incense brenners. Head inside to see these incredible cultural artifacts:

The Golden Mazu (金媽祖) - Located in the basement museum, this stunning statue of Mazu stands over 4 feet tall and is cast from over 276 kilograms of pure gold donated entirely by faithful worshippers. 

The Jade Mazu (翡翠媽祖) - Gifted to the temple, this breathtaking statue is carved from a single, massive piece of high-quality emerald-green jade, weighing over 1.5 tons.

The Purple Clay Pottery (剪黏) and Stone Carvings - Look up at the pillars and roof eaves. The intricate, colorful dragons and historical scenes are created using traditional stone-carving and Jiannian (a technique where artisans cut colorful porcelain bowls into shards to piece together vibrant mosaic figures.

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A Day Trip Through Miaoli: Strawberries, Oil Mines, and Hakka Culture

Travel Date: 2025/11/07

Strawberry season is coming, so we took a short trip to Dahu in Miaoli to check on the fruits. Surprisingly, even though it’s already November, the strawberries weren’t ready yet (though I've recently seen some for sale). However, that didn’t stop us from enjoying the area - there were still plenty of strawberry-infused foods, snacks, drinks, and desserts to try. From strawberry sausages to strawberry wine, the entire town feels dedicated to celebrating the berry even before the fields turn red.

After Dahu, we headed to an old oil refinery preserved as a free museum. We explored the indoor exhibitions, but didn’t wander outdoors for long. As soon as we tried to climb the stairs outside, a killing bee (giant hornet) appeared out of nowhere and successfully scared us back inside. With posted warnings about venomous snakes and aggressive bees all around, we weren’t sure how safe it was to walk deeper into the hills, so we kept our exploration short.

The final stop on our trip was the Taiwan Hakka Culture Museum, conveniently located on the way home. The building is huge and filled with old photographs, cultural displays, and historical information. The best part for us, however, was probably the interactive game called “throwing fireworks on a tower”—a traditional activity that kids and adults can enjoy. It was a lighthearted way to end a long day of sightseeing.

If you’re planning a day trip in central Taiwan, these three spots make a great combination of food, history, and culture.

Dahu Strawberry Cultural Center (大湖草莓文化館)

Dahu is known as the Strawberry Capital of Taiwan, with more than 500 hectares of strawberry fields—around 80% of the country’s total production. Even though the strawberries weren’t ready yet during our visit, the Dahu Strawberry Cultural Center is absolutely still worth a stop.

On the ground floor, you’ll find an impressive range of strawberry-themed products: wine, jams, vinegar, pudding, dried strawberries, strawberry tofu snacks, strawberry sausages, and even silk quilts made by local farmers. It’s the perfect spot to pick up unique souvenirs.

Head up to the second floor for the Screening Room, where short films introduce Dahu’s agricultural history and nearby attractions. Groups can also book a 15-minute introductory video.

The third floor features the Strawberry Ecology Exhibition, where visitors can learn how strawberries are grown, harvested, bred, and managed. Many of the displays are interactive or life-like, making it a fun and educational area for kids.

Finally, the fifth floor opens up to the Sky Garden, filled with colorful flowers and offering a beautiful panoramic view of the Dahu countryside.

Overall, the center is extremely family-friendly, and even without fresh strawberries, you can really immerse yourself in the rich “strawberry culture” that defines Dahu.

Taiwan Oil Mine Exhibition Hall (台灣油礦陳列館)

This site marks the first place in Taiwan where oil was discovered—and it remains one of the oldest still-producing oil fields in the world. The exhibition hall traces the entire journey from early discovery to modern extraction, combining historical artifacts with clear, science-focused displays.

You’ll learn about the Qing Dynasty discovery of oil in Chuhuangkeng, its development during Japanese rule, and later operations under CPC Corporation. Old photographs and documents reveal what a lively, booming oil village the area once was.

One of the highlights is a virtual cable-car ride that takes visitors “into” the oil mine to experience what life was like in the 1960s.

There’s also a cave-themed passage explaining how oil forms underground, featuring real rock cores taken from some of Taiwan’s deepest drilling projects.

Throughout the exhibition, you’ll find large drilling machines from different eras, hands-on games, and animated demonstrations showing how oil is extracted and processed. You can even try pipeline-inspection equipment and learn how modern oil transport is monitored.

Other interactive sections include miniature offshore platforms, VR deep-sea drilling, and an interactive map of CPC’s global operations.

Despite its historical setting, the museum feels surprisingly modern and engaging—perfect even for visitors with no background in geology or mining.

Note that the outdoor area is home to local wildlife, and warning signs for venomous snakes and aggressive bees are posted throughout. 

Taiwan Hakka Culture Museum (臺灣客家文化館)

This museum is one of the largest cultural centers dedicated to Hakka heritage in Taiwan. Its striking architecture is paired with a thoughtfully designed interior that blends history, folk customs, interactive learning, and kid-friendly exhibits.

Inside, you’ll find spacious exhibition halls filled with old photographs, farming tools, traditional clothing, and stories of Hakka migration. Interactive installations help visitors explore the Hakka language, festivals, rituals, and aspects of everyday life.

There are also family-friendly zones where kids can learn through play, along with beautiful outdoor spaces that are perfect for taking photos or enjoying a short walk.

The unexpected highlight of our visit was the firework-throwing tower game, where you aim “firework” bags at a target - a fun and much safer version of the traditional activity.

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Taixi Township – Hidden Japanese-era Gems in Yunlin’s Coastal Corner

Travel Date: 2025/08/09

This weekend, we decided to explore a lesser-known part of Yunlin County — Taixi Township, a quiet coastal area with plenty of hidden gems. We started our day with some local food, which, compared to the cities, was incredibly affordable and came in huge portions. Afterwards, we visited a few historic buildings from the Japanese era, each with its own story and charm. To wrap up the trip, we made a final stop in Baozhong at Wunian Qiansui Park, a unique temple-themed maze park that was both fun and full of surprises — a perfect ending to our off-the-beaten-path Yunlin adventure.

Taixi Township (臺西鄉)

Tucked away on Taiwan’s northwestern shore, Taixi Township (臺西鄉) is a quiet coastal community that feels worlds apart from the bustle of city life. Bordering the Taiwan Strait to the west and sitting about 34 km from Douliu City, it’s a place where seafood farming, traditional temples, and a touch of Japanese-era history all meet against a backdrop of wetlands and seabirds.

Taixi’s flat, low-lying land has shaped its economy for generations. The township is famous for aquaculture, producing fresh clams, oysters, milkfish, and other seafood that end up on tables across Taiwan. If you wander near the coast, you’ll see tidal ponds, fishing boats, and the rhythm of daily life tied closely to the sea.

The township covers 54 km² and is home to about 21,000 residents (2025). Interestingly, a large portion share the Ding surname, with some tracing their roots back to Hui (Muslim) ancestry.

Historically, this area was known as Haikou, officially established as Haikou Village during Japanese rule in 1920. In 1946, after administrative restructuring, it became Taixi Township. Today, the town is made up of 15 villages — each with its own unique feel but connected by fishing traditions and community ties.

While Taixi is best known for its harbor and wetlands, it also hides two beautifully preserved Japanese-era buildings that speak to its past.

See also:

Wunian Qiansui Park’s Temple Maze LINK

Haikou Village Police Station (海口庄派出所)

Built in 1931, this was once the highest public security authority in Haikou Village during Japanese rule, staffed by a small but vital team. In a time when most homes were simple thatched or earthen structures, the police station’s brick architecture stood out as a symbol of authority and modernity.

In the 1940s, after World War II, administrative changes reshaped the region. When Haikou was divided into Dongshi Township and Taixi Township in August 1946, the Taixi Police Substation was officially established. At that time, most houses in the area were built with thatch or earthen walls, so the well-constructed police station — with its mix of colonial and traditional features — stood out as an architectural gem admired by locals.

In June 2000, during reconstruction of the new Taixi Substation, the old Haikou building was moved about 20 meters. Shortly after, Yunlin Deputy County Magistrate Kao Meng-ting suggested that since the building was under 100 years old and built with common materials, there was “no need to preserve it.” His remarks, made on February 5, 2001, sparked public outrage.

After months of debate, the Yunlin County Government finally decided to preserve the building. Yet, the process was far from smooth. During renovations, the red brick walls were covered with cement — a decision that frustrated preservationists like Professor Liu Chuan-chih, who had worked closely on the revitalization efforts. On February 10, 2002, he and volunteers from the Taixi Coastal Vitality Center took matters into their own hands and began removing the cement layer to restore the building’s original look.

Further restoration work faced bureaucratic hurdles — the township office failed to follow proper administrative procedures to change the land use classification, making it impossible to pass inspection or obtain a usage license. The building also suffered from severe water leakage over time.

Finally, in June 2006, the Yunlin County Historic Sites and Historic Buildings Review Committee officially listed it as a historic building under the name “Haikou Village Police Station.” Thanks to the persistence of local cultural advocates and support from successive county magistrates Su Chih-fen and Lee Chin-yung, the building underwent comprehensive restoration beginning on March 15, 2016, with funding from the Ministry of Culture.

Today, the Haikou Village Police Station stands not just as a relic of Taiwan’s Japanese-era policing system, but also as a symbol of community-driven heritage preservation. Its red brick walls and modest façade remind visitors that even small buildings can hold big stories — stories of resistance, pride, and the struggle to protect history in the face of modernization.

Haikou Village Chief’s Residence (海口庄長官舍)

Tucked away on Minquan Road in Taixi Township, Yunlin County, the Haikou Village Chief’s Residence (海口庄長官舍) — also known as the Taixi Township Magistrate’s Residence — is one of the best-preserved examples of Japanese-era official housing in the area. Built in 1937 from fragrant cypress wood, this elegant single-story structure has weathered decades of change and now serves as the Taixi Haikou Story House, welcoming visitors free of charge.

Designated as a registered historic building on June 20, 2006, the residence is managed and owned by the Taixi Township Office and stands as both a cultural landmark and a symbol of local revitalization.

Completed on August 14, 1937, the house originally served as the residence of Isaku Aimoto (相本伊作), the third Japanese mayor of Haikou Village during the Shōwa era. With its classic Japanese architectural layout, wooden structure, and two large banyan trees gracing the front yard, the residence reflected the simple yet refined aesthetic typical of official homes from that period.

When Taiwan came under the administration of the Republic of China in 1945, and local divisions were reorganized, the house was renamed the Haikou Township Mayor’s Residence. At that time, it lacked amenities such as a water tower, garage, and storage room, and the surrounding yard was nothing more than bare soil — quite different from the landscaped grounds visitors see today.

In 1950, when Haikou Township was split into Taixi Township and Dongshi Township, the building became the official residence of Taixi’s successive township mayors. However, since later mayors were all local residents who continued living in their own homes, the building gradually fell into disuse. For years, it was repurposed as a storage area for small garbage trucks and kitchen waste bins, its historic charm hidden beneath clutter and neglect.

Everything changed when Taiwan began promoting community development initiatives. The Taixi Township Office launched local cultural projects, and the long-forgotten residence found new purpose. It was once used by the Taixi Coastal Vitality Task Force and the Taixi Art Association, serving as a hub for community activities and creative projects.

Recognizing its cultural and architectural value, Yunlin County listed it as a cultural asset in 2006. Then, in 2015, the county government began major restoration work, aiming to transform the old building into a New Immigrant Story House — a community space celebrating diversity and local heritage.

To protect it from frequent flooding, engineers raised the entire structure by 70 centimeters using hydraulic jacks on September 19, 2015 — a remarkable engineering effort for a wooden heritage site.

After years of careful work, the house reopened on June 8, 2019, as the Taixi Haikou Story House. The opening event featured a doll and toy exhibition curated by local fashion designer Lin Guo-ji, breathing new life into the space and connecting the past with the present through art and storytelling.

The Haikou Village Chief’s Residence is a single-story cypress-wood house with a traditional Japanese tiled roof and a layout that reflects the elegance and order of pre-war Japanese domestic architecture. The wooden beams and sliding doors create a sense of warmth and harmony, while the surrounding banyan trees offer shade and a timeless sense of calm.

Other Notes

Beyond the town center, Taixi’s wetlands stretch along the coast, offering a sanctuary for migratory waterbirds. For birdwatchers, winter is the prime season to spot flocks of herons, egrets, and other species feeding in the shallows.

Taixi might not be Taiwan’s most famous destination, but for travelers who love coastal charm, local history, and authentic community life, it’s a place worth slowing down for. Whether you’re here for the seafood, the heritage buildings, or the sight of waterbirds at sunset, Taixi offers a quiet yet deeply textured slice of Yunlin’s story.

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