February 27, 2025

Discovering Poland’s Historic Castles


My husband loves castles, so this time I found a few, and we went to visit them. On the way, we also passed by three wooden churches from around the 18th century, and we visited one of them inside. However, as time was limited due to the early sunset in the winter months in Poland, we didn't make as many stops and focused on the castle ruins. The weather was partially sunny, but by the time we arrived at the last castle, it had already gotten much cooler, so I didn’t want to walk around it too much.

Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary in Borysławice Kościelne

In a village in the Grzegorzew commune (Koło County), located approximately 13 km east of Koło, lies a church that was built in 1759, funded by Antoni Gorzeński, the cupbearer of Poznań and the owner of the village of Krzykosy, located within the parish. It has undergone numerous restorations.  

Constructed in a log cabin style and covered with wooden paneling, the church is oriented eastward. It is a single-nave structure with a narrower and noticeably lower presbytery (clearly visible from the outside) that ends in a three-sided apse. Two porches adjoin the nave, one on the southern side and one on the western side. The high roofs are covered with wooden shingles. A small turret for a bell is located above the nave. Inside, the ceiling features rounded corners and is adorned with polychrome paintings by Wincenty Strubiński, created in the interwar period, with motifs inspired by the Kujawy region.  

The church houses three Renaissance altars from the second half of the 18th century. The side altars include paintings on wooden panels depicting St. Isidore and St. Roch from the 17th century. A Rococo wall-mounted baptismal font is also present. In the presbytery, there are two fragments of a Renaissance triptych from 1640, including a relief scene of the Flight into Egypt and depictions of Aaron and St. John the Baptist. On the rood beam, a Baroque crucifix can be seen.  
Adjacent to the church is a wooden bell tower from the 18th century, featuring a four-pitched, shingled roof. 




Castle in Borysławice Zamkowe

The Castle in Borysławice Zamkowe is a 15th-century episcopal castle located in Borysławice Zamkowe, Greater Poland Voivodeship.  
The castle was built in the Gothic style on a small island surrounded by the waters of the Rgielewka River. Construction began around 1425 under the initiative of Archbishop Wojciech Jastrzębiec. Subsequent owners, the Russocki and Szczawiński families, did not significantly alter the castle’s appearance. It was destroyed in 1656 by Swedish forces during the Deluge and fell into ruin by the 18th century.  
Today, remnants of the gate tower, parts of the outer gateway walls, and fragments of the residential buildings’ walls remain. The ruins are privately owned and are not open to the public.  

The original castle consisted of two parallel, three-story residential buildings enclosed within defensive walls measuring 21 x 25 meters. A narrow, paved courtyard between the buildings was accessed through a gate on the southeastern side. A polygonal turret stood at one corner. This design exemplified a typical knightly residence from the first half of the 15th century.  
In the latter half of the 15th century, the castle was surrounded by an additional outer wall, creating a defensive outer courtyard (międzymurze) approximately 7 meters wide. The dimensions of the outer wall were 38 x 41 meters, and a new fortified gateway was added.  

By the early 16th century, a three-story, rectangular tower with decorative blind windows (blendy) was built on the walls, along with a fortified gateway strengthened with buttresses. In the northeastern section of the outer courtyard, a new building, likely a storage house (lamus), was constructed, extending slightly beyond the outer wall.  
In the early 17th century, the two residential buildings were joined by a narrow wing, reducing the courtyard’s size.  
It was listed as a historical monument in January 17, 1953.



Castle in Koło

The Castle in Koło, located near the town of Koło in Greater Poland, is a 14th-century Gothic stronghold built by King Casimir III the Great after 1365. It was strategically placed on an artificial hill within a meander of the Warta River, serving as a defensive outpost and administrative center along the important trade and travel routes of medieval Poland. 

Construction of the castle began during Casimir III’s reign as part of his broader efforts to fortify Poland. It was completed after his death, with the first recorded mention of the castle appearing in 1383. The castle was a residence for starosts (royal governors) and hosted Polish kings like Władysław Jagiełło and Kazimierz IV Jagiellończyk. In 1410, Władysław Jagiełło visited the castle on his way to the Battle of Grunwald.
In 15th Century, the castle became a center for political activity, hosting noble assemblies (sejmiki) for the surrounding region. It maintained its importance until starosts moved their residence to Kościelec in the late 16th century.
The castle began to decline in the late 1500s as its administrative significance waned.
By the time of the Swedish Deluge (1655–1660), the castle was described as "ruined." Afterward, its stones were repurposed for local construction projects, including the Bernardine monastery in Koło.

In 19th Century initial interest in the ruins sparked some of the earliest documentation efforts. In 20th century, archaeological excavations revealed fascinating finds, including a 14th-century gold ring adorned with a red gemstone, believed to have belonged to a wealthy noble or royal figure, numerous ceramic artifacts, including pottery and tiles, remains of the donjon foundations and parts of the courtyard’s layout. In 2019–2020, excavations unearthed more medieval artifacts and provided further insight into the castle’s construction techniques.

Significant conservation efforts have been undertaken to stabilize the ruins and prevent further degradation. Recent work includes the reconstruction of northern wall sections and ongoing plans for revitalization to enhance tourism. The castle is now a key historical attraction, hosting events like the Koło Bluesa Festival and drawing visitors interested in its rich history and scenic location by the Warta River.

The castle’s core was a rectangular layout (50 x 30 meters) built with Gothic brick techniques, including Flemish bond and Wendish bond. A donjon tower, measuring approximately 12 x 15 meters and 20 meters tall, was the oldest element. It likely served as a keep for defense and residence. The walls of the tower were exceptionally thick, up to 2.5 meters. The castle featured defensive walls fortified with crenellations and a gate tower, which could be accessed via a drawbridge. The inner courtyard housed auxiliary wooden structures, storage spaces, and two wells (a smaller one inside and a larger one outside the walls).
The castle was surrounded by a moat, with additional water defenses provided by the nearby Warta River. Its elevated position on an artificial hill added another layer of protection.
Only fragments of the defensive walls and parts of the eastern main tower remain intact today. The surviving portions reach up to 10 meters in height.





Church of St. Michael the Archangel in Umień

The Church of St. Michael the Archangel in Umień is a notable example of wooden sacred architecture typical of the eastern Greater Poland region. Here’s a detailed overview of its history and structure:
The village of Umień, located 12 km south of Koło, was first mentioned in King Casimir the Great's document from 1364. The parish was established in the 14th century, initially belonging to the Archdiocese of Gniezno until 1818, then to the Archdiocese of Warsaw, followed by the Diocese of Łódź (1920-1925), and since 1925, it has been part of the Diocese of Włocławek.
The church is listed as a heritage site and protected under Poland's register of monuments. It remains a protected landmark and accessible for outside viewing.

The first wooden church was likely founded in the 14th century by the local lords, the Unieński family, and was first mentioned in 1443.
In 1759, a public chapel was confirmed in Umień, preceding the current church's construction, which was completed by the second half of the 17th century. Throughout its history, the church has undergone various restorations, particularly after World War II when it was looted by the Germans. Restoration efforts have occurred in 1756, 1864, 1929, 1946, 1958, with additional works completed in 1992 and 1999.

The church is orientated, with a wooden frame construction, clad in timber and supported by braces. The building features a single nave, with a narrower, three-sided presbytery to the east and a sacristy attached to the north. On the north side, a square chapel with a tent roof has been added. On the south and west sides, two porches (kruchty) were constructed. A two-pitched roof, covered with metal sheets, rises above the nave, topped by a steeple with a bell.
The interior has a flat, vaulted ceiling and retains Rococo furnishings. Notable is the 18th-century polychrome depicting St. Michael the Archangel.
The wooden bell tower, built in the 18th century, has a four-sided metal roof. The upper section is covered with metal cladding, with slatted openings and a cross-topped lantern.
The churchyard is surrounded by a brick and stone wall with a metal gate, adding to the overall historic feel of the site.

Castle in Besiekiery

The Castle in Besiekiery is a late Gothic fortress located in the village of Besiekiery, in Łęczyca County, Łódź Voivodeship, Poland. The castle's ruins provide a glimpse into its historical significance and architectural development over the centuries.
The castle remains in a state of ruin, but the remains of its residential house and other architectural features can still be seen. The walls and corners of the residential building stand as a testament to its past grandeur.
Today, the castle is a tourist site, and while it has seen restoration work, much of its structure is still in ruins. The surrounding area is being developed with tourism facilities to make it more accessible to visitors.

The castle was likely built at the turn of the 15th to 16th century. The exact origin of its construction is unclear. Early theories suggested Mikołaj Sokołowski, the voivode of Łęczyca, was behind it, though this has been disputed. Instead, it is thought to have been commissioned by one of the Brzeski chamberlains, Mikołaj Sokołowski (1496–1502) or Wojciech Sokołowski (1502–1529).
By the late 16th century, the castle belonged to Andrzej Batory and later his daughter Zofia Batory and her husband Jerzy Rakoczy II.
In the mid-17th century, the castle was renovated by Jan Szymon Szczawiński, who added plaster to the walls, diminishing the fortification’s original Gothic appearance.
The structure suffered from a fire in 1731, which accelerated its decay. By the mid-19th century, it had been repurposed for agricultural uses.
In 2023, renovation work commenced, with the project concluding in December 2024, including conservation and landscaping, creating a new tourism infrastructure around the site.

The castle was built on a mound surrounded by an artificial moat. Constructed with brick on a stone foundation, the plan was an irregular rectangle, measuring approximately 38 × 40 meters.
The southern curtain featured a gatehouse measuring about 12 × 12 meters, which had three floors, each with four rooms. Around 1653, an octagonal tower was added to the gatehouse.
On the northern side, the main residential building was erected, measuring 13 meters in width. It consisted of three smaller rectangular rooms and a square hall on the eastern wall. These rooms were described in the 18th century as the Crimson Room, Marble Room, Hall, and Grand Chamber. Seven windows opened towards the inner courtyard.







February 22, 2025

Discover Płock: The Ducal Capital of Poland


The weather was getting better, so we went on a trip to Płock, a city located about a 50-minute drive from Włocławek. The town was nearly empty, maybe due to the cold. Parking is very convenient, as there are many parking spaces near the castle, costing 3 PLN per hour. We went on to visit the basilica, but we couldn’t see the castle inside. It’s converted into a museum, but unfortunately, it was closed until February 4th, just the exact date we fly back to Taiwan. Well, maybe next time. We also went to explore the city, including the town hall, a monument of a king, and an old city wall.

Płock

Nestled along the scenic banks of the Vistula River, Płock is a city brimming with history, culture, and architectural splendor. Located in central Poland, this historic gem has a legacy stretching back over a millennium. 
Płock’s story begins in the 10th century as a fortified settlement strategically located at the crossroads of trade routes. By 1079, it rose to prominence as the capital of Poland under the reign of Władysław I Herman and Bolesław III Wrymouth. The city earned its ceremonial title, Stołeczne Książęce Miasto Płock (Ducal Capital City of Płock), which is still used today in official documents.
One of the city’s most iconic landmarks is Wzgórze Tumskie (Cathedral Hill), home to the Płock Cathedral and the Płock Castle. The cathedral is the final resting place of several Polish monarchs and a testament to the city’s medieval significance.
Płock also holds the distinction of being home to Poland’s oldest school, the Marshal Stanisław Małachowski High School (founded in 1180), which continues to educate students to this day. It's also the seat of one of Poland's oldest dioceses, established in 1075, and the worldwide headquarters of the Mariavite Church. 

The city has faced its share of challenges, from medieval invasions to occupations during World War II. During the war, Płock became a center of Polish resistance against Nazi Germany. Its residents endured immense hardships, including deportations and forced labor, yet their spirit remained unbroken.
In 1920, Płock earned national recognition for its heroic defense against Soviet forces during the Polish-Soviet War, receiving the prestigious Cross of Valour.

Płock Cathedral

Located on the picturesque Tumskie Hill overlooking the Vistula River, Płock Cathedral (Katedra Płocka) is not only the spiritual heart of Płock but also a remarkable testament to Poland’s medieval and Renaissance heritage. With a history dating back to the 12th century, the cathedral encapsulates centuries of art, culture, and historical events that shaped the nation.  
Płock’s prominence as a religious center began with the founding of its bishopric around 1075. By 1102, the cathedral became a burial site for Władysław I Herman, a significant figure in Polish history. The construction of the Romanesque cathedral we see today was initiated by Prince Bolesław III Wrymouth and Bishop Aleksander of Malonne in 1136. Completed in 1144, this church was consecrated as the Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary and stood as a masterpiece of early Romanesque architecture in Poland. A defining feature of the cathedral's early history is its bronze doors, crafted in Magdeburg around 1150. These doors, featuring bas-reliefs that narrate religious stories and the Roman Confession of Faith, were unfortunately relocated to Velikiy Novgorod during the medieval period. However, a faithful replica was created and installed in the 1980s, allowing modern visitors to marvel at their artistry. 
The cathedral’s architecture is a stunning blend of Romanesque and Renaissance styles, with subsequent Gothic and Baroque influences evident in its later additions and restorations.  

One of the most notable features of Płock Cathedral is the Royal Chapel, which houses the tombs of Władysław I Herman and his son, Bolesław III Wrymouth. These rulers played pivotal roles in Polish history, with Płock serving as the nation’s capital during their reign (1079–1138).  
Their remains rest in a marble sarcophagus, a symbol of Poland’s royal heritage. The chapel serves as a powerful reminder of the city’s historical significance during the medieval period.  
The cathedral’s interiors are adorned with a rich array of artistic works. In 2018, the Polish government designated Płock Cathedral and Tumskie Hill as a Historic Monument of Poland. This status highlights its cultural, historical, and artistic importance. Tumskie Hill offers breathtaking views of the Vistula River and is home to other historical landmarks, including Płock Castle, which once served as a residence for the Dukes of Masovia.  








Płock Castle

Płock Castle, also known as the Castle of the Masovian Dukes, is a stunning Gothic structure located in the heart of Płock, Poland. Built during the reign of Casimir III the Great, it served as a stronghold for the Dukes of Masovia until the 15th century. Perched on a steep hillside overlooking the Vistula River, the castle's impressive architecture and rich history make it a remarkable piece of Poland's medieval heritage.

The origins of the castle date back to the 11th century when a wooden fortress was established on the site. Over time, the stronghold was fortified, with walls and dikes protecting the area. By 1194, a chapel and defensive living quarters were constructed, marking a significant step in the development of the site.
The castle began to take its current form in the late 13th century, under the reign of Casimir III the Great. The stronghold was expanded and reinforced with bricks, and two towers were added. The square-shaped complex featured a clock tower in the northern part, alongside the Szlachecka Tower in the south-west, with its unique octagonal upper half.

Over the centuries, the castle underwent various transformations. In 1532, it suffered damage due to the partial removal of the hillside but was rebuilt shortly after. In 1538, the Masovian dukes moved to a newly built palace outside the castle walls, and the Benedictine order took over the castle. The castle was heavily damaged during the Swedish wars in 1657 and 1705 but was later reconstructed. By the 18th century, the castle had been transformed into a Baroque-style Benedictine Abbey, which lasted until 1781. 
After the Partitions of Poland, the Prussian authorities ordered the deconstruction of some of the defensive walls. In the late 19th century, the castle became a center for spiritual seminars. Following World War II, the castle underwent renovation and, since 1973, has housed a museum showcasing the rich history of the region.
Today, Płock Castle serves as a museum, preserving and showcasing the history and architectural significance of the region.





Town Hall

The town hall is known for its tradition of playing a bugle call from the tower. The tune was composed by Fr. Kazimierz Starościński in the 1930s.
According to Bishop Antoni Julian Nowowiejski, a previous town hall structure was demolished in the early 19th century due to its poor condition. This older structure stood near the center of the market area, which featured butchers and a platform for corporal punishment. Bishop Nowowiejski places the start date for the current city hall as 1820, but other sources state it was built between 1824 and 1827. Jakub Kubicki worked on the town hall in 1826–1827.
On 23 September 1831, during the November Uprising, the last Sejm of the Kingdom of Poland was held at the town hall.

City Wall

In the Middle Ages, Płock was protected by a town wall 1.7 kilometers in length. Its construction was initiated in the middle of the 14th century under Casimir the Great. A fragment of the wall, about 15 meters long, has survived at the intersection of Bielska and Antoniego Juliana Nowowiejskiego streets, recalling the once imposing city fortifications. At Zduńska Street, there are some remains of a bastion from the 14th century.


February 17, 2025

Discovering Ciechocinek: Poland’s Healing Spa Town


We got an invitation from a family I haven’t seen for several years, mainly due to our relationship not being very close (the daughter of my grandfather’s brother). They live near a town called Ciechocinek, so we also stopped by to check out the town. I had been there many years ago, but during the summer, so it was a totally different view. In winter, the salt graduation towers aren’t in operation, so except for the 200-year-old constructions, we didn’t see much.

Nestled in the heart of Kuyavian-Pomeranian Voivodeship in north-central Poland, Ciechocinek is a charming spa town known for its therapeutic atmosphere, rich history, and architectural wonders. With a population of just over 10,000 residents, this small town is a hidden gem that has been drawing visitors for over two centuries.
Ciechocinek's history dates back to the Middle Ages, but its development as a spa town began in 1836. The town’s transformation accelerated in the 19th century, thanks to the construction of the graduation towers and the establishment of a railway connection with Bydgoszcz and Warsaw in 1867. By 1916, Ciechocinek was granted town rights, solidifying its status as a premier health destination.
Despite the hardships of World War II, including Nazi occupation and the expulsion of its Polish residents, Ciechocinek emerged resilient. After the war, the town regained its prominence as a health resort, and its facilities were restored and expanded.


At the heart of Ciechocinek lies its most iconic attraction: the salt graduation towers. These monumental wooden structures, dating back to the 19th century, are not only a marvel of engineering but also a cornerstone of the town’s healing legacy. Standing 15.8 meters tall and stretching over 1,741 meters in length, the three towers form a horseshoe shape and are built on thousands of oak piles. Their construction was initiated by the renowned Polish scientist Stanisław Staszic and designed by Jakub Graff.
The graduation towers are the largest wooden structures used to evaporate water from brine in Europe. The three huge structures were built between 1824 and 1859. The graduation towers concentrate the brine collected from the spring, over which the “Grzybek” fountain was built. The water is pumped to the top of the graduation towers and then seeps drop by drop through the blackthorn-covered walls and is evaporated due to the exposure to wind and sun. The concentrated brine is then pumped to the saltworks.

The towers serve as natural inhalers, creating a therapeutic microclimate rich in iodine, bromine, and salt particles. Visitors can walk along the towers, breathe in the salty air, and experience the health benefits of this unique environment. Climbing the spiral staircase to the catwalk offers a closer view of the brine trickling through blackthorn branches—a mesmerizing process that concentrates the saltwater and enriches the air.
Ciechocinek's reputation as a health resort stems from its mineral-rich saline springs. The town’s therapeutic brine is believed to alleviate ailments related to the cardiovascular system, respiratory issues, rheumatism, and even neurological conditions. Visitors can enjoy treatments such as salt baths, inhalation therapies, and mud wraps, all while surrounded by the serene ambiance of the spa park.

While the graduation towers are the main draw, Ciechocinek offers much more to explore. The Spa Park, with its meticulously landscaped gardens, fountains, and monuments, is a tranquil haven for relaxation. History enthusiasts will appreciate the Monument of Stanisław Staszic and the town’s well-preserved architecture. Sports fans can catch a local football match featuring Zdrój Ciechocinek, the town’s team. The park is also home to many ducks, and if you want to feed them, you can buy duck feed from a vending machine. A stroll through the nearby park reveals two charming wooden buildings. 

One of these wooden buildings houses Wedel, a famous Polish chocolate company. Here, you can enjoy a cup of rich drinking chocolate and pick up some sweet treats. Right next to it is the historic Concert Shell, designed by Waldemar Piotr Fedders and built in 1909 in the Zakopane style, which is quite unique for this region. Even today, the antique Concert Shell hosts performances throughout the summer.
The Concert Shell is located in the center of Spa Park. It was designed by Waldemar Piotr Fedders as a concert stage and was built in 1909 in the Zakopane style, which is quite unusual for Ciechocinek. Over the years, many well-known performers from across Poland have graced this stage, including the famous Spa Orchestra.
Even today, the Concert Shell comes alive throughout the summer. It hosts artists from various Ciechocinek festivals, such as the Kuyavian and Dobrzyń Land Folklore Meetings, the National Firefighters' Song Festival, the Polish Tenors Gala, the Opera and Operetta Festival, the "Blues Without Barriers" Festival, and the Festival of Songs for Youth with Disabilities.











February 11, 2025

Poland Travel: Salt Mine Kłodawa - A Hidden Gem in Poland


After visiting the Basilica of Lichen early this morning, we drove an hour to see the salt mine in Kłodawa. There is spacious parking available, but it's advisable to arrive half an hour early. You will be asked to fill in your information and wait for the guide to take you underground. The entire tour lasts about 2.5 hours, allowing visitors to experience the unique atmosphere of the mine, with a constant temperature of 20°C throughout the year. The tour must be booked in advance, and there are two time slots available each day, costing 80 PLN per adult. Visitors can wear real miners' safety helmets, adding an authentic touch to the experience, and take memorable photos with machinery and underground salt formations.

This salt mine is the largest active rock salt mine in Poland and a fascinating destination that blends industrial prowess with natural wonder. It is known for its unique pinkish-white salt, a rare variety caused by natural iron infusion, found nowhere else in Europe except Kłodawa.
The Kłodawa salt dome was discovered through gravitational studies conducted by Professor Edward Janczewski between 1937 and 1939, revealing a vast salt structure stretching across 63 kilometers. In the post-war years, further exploration confirmed the existence of the Kłodawa salt dome—the largest in the Polish Lowlands—measuring 26 kilometers in length and up to 2 kilometers in width.

Check out Basilica of Our Lady of Licheń LINK


Construction of the mine began in the autumn of 1949, with the excavation of the "Michał" and "Barbara" shafts between 1950 and 1954. Salt extraction officially began in 1956, with the use of 40 horses working underground to transport salt. This operation continued until 1966 when the mine introduced electric traction. 
The surface facilities, such as the "Chrobry" ventilation shaft, were also expanded during this time to improve mining efficiency.
Today, the Kłodawa Salt Mine operates at depths of up to 810 meters, with resources expected to last for several decades. The mine produces approximately 650,000 tonnes of rock salt annually, accounting for 88% of Poland's rock salt production. The salt extracted is used in various industries, including food production, agriculture, chemicals, and road maintenance during winter months.

Over millions of years, salt deposits from ancient seas were uplifted, leaving the Kłodawa region with an overburden as thin as 100 meters in some areas. The mine extracts several types of salt, such as older white rock salt, older gray rock salt, magnesium-potassium salt, and young pink rock salt, which is prized for its unique color and flavor.
Kłodawa Salt Mine is not only a vital industrial site but also a major tourist attraction. It features the world’s deepest underground tourist route, extending to a depth of 600 meters. Visitors descend via mining elevators, traveling at 6 meters per second, and explore illuminated salt caverns, observe mining tools and machinery, and learn about the mine's history and operations.

The tour also includes a ghost chamber and a chapel dedicated to Saint Kinga, the patron saint of salt miners. The chapel features a remarkable salt sculpture of Saint Kinga, as well as a commemorative plaque honoring 20 miners who lost their lives underground. The mine’s microclimate is also said to have a beneficial effect on respiratory health, making it an ideal place for therapeutic visits.
While the Kłodawa Salt Mine doesn’t have the medieval charm of other famous Polish mines like Wieliczka or Bochnia, it offers a modern and functional experience. As a fully operational facility, it provides a rare insight into contemporary mining practices. The mine’s extensive tunnel network spans over 350 kilometers, showcasing modern machinery and techniques that differ greatly from the historical mining methods seen in older mines.

The Kłodawa Salt Mine has earned numerous accolades for its exceptional operations and contributions to the industry. In 2007, the mine made headlines when it hosted the deepest underground music concert ever held, at a depth of 600 meters, earning a Guinness World Record for this incredible achievement. The mine's importance is also reflected in its protection under the Natura 2000 program since 2008, due to its unique geological and ecological significance.
Whether you're exploring the mine for its industrial importance, remarkable salt deposits, or health benefits, the Kłodawa Salt Mine offers a truly one-of-a-kind experience. With its combination of history, modern technology, and natural beauty, it's a must-visit destination for anyone seeking to explore Poland's industrial heritage and cultural landmarks.