Japan Trip - Day 3: Aso Volcano Adventure

Travel Dates: 2025/08/13-18

We woke up early to meet my husband’s coworker at the rental car company. Taking the tram to Kumamoto Station, the day began beautifully - blue skies and warm sunshine - but I couldn’t help feeling anxious. I had checked the Aso Volcano website earlier and learned that access to the crater area was limited due to high gas emissions. Still, we had our plan, so we hopped in the car and headed out.

The drive took just over an hour, as speed limits were 40–60 km/h, but it was a relaxing journey through peaceful landscapes. Before diving into the mountain area, we stocked up on snacks - always a smart move for remote destinations.

We parked at the Aso Volcano Museum, located in Kusasenri plain with views of the majestic Nakadake crater. Though we didn’t enter the museum itself, the location offers striking scenery and educational value.

Check out Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine LINK

Aso Volcano Museum (阿蘇火山博物館)

Aso Volcano Museum is geology museum established in 1982, situated near Mt. Aso, Japan’s largest active volcano. Inside, visitors can explore a diorama illustrating the formation of the Aso caldera, live video feeds from the crater filmed via controllable cameras, and engaging films about volcanic eruptions and local life on its third floor. The first floor hosts the Mt. Aso Visitor Center, offering information on trekking routes, flora and fauna, and the Aso-Kuju UNESCO Global Geopark. 

The Visitor Center on the 1st floor is free to enter and features exhibits about the volcanic landscape, Aso-Kuju National Park, local flora and fauna, and trekking routes. The 2nd floor provides a kinetic diorama detailing the formation of the Aso caldera, along with live video feeds from cameras inside the Nakadake crater - complete with real-time visual and audio streaming.

On the 3rd floor, visitors can enjoy dynamic, immersive films (with multilingual subtitles) that explore volcanic eruptions and Aso’s seasonal culture.

A free multi-language audio guide is available, and exhibitions are designed to engage all ages—perfect for families. 

The museum opens daily 9:00 AM – 5:00 PM (last entry 4:30 PM). Ticket price: Adults ~880–1100 ¥; children ~440–550 ¥

The museum is about 75 min drive from Kumamoto. There is a paid parking available (500¥ for a small car). Shuttle buses from JR Aso Station also stop at the museum.

We strolled through the grassy terrain around the museum, admiring the plains, two small ponds, and even glimpsing smoke curving upwards from the crater. Horse rentals were available for scenic rides, but seeing the horses outdoors in August made us worry about their comfort - though they appeared well looked after.

Nakadake Crater

The Aso region, with its dramatic landscape and living geology, is a recognized National Park and UNESCO Global Geopark - boasting over 33 geosites that celebrate both natural wonders and cultural heritage.

To enter the crater area, the toll road costs 1000 yen per car. We received a safety notice (mostly in Japanese) with a leaflet explaining the risks. Visitors with heart, lung, or asthma issues were advised not to proceed. A shuttle bus from Asosanjo Terminal to the crater is available, but infrequent and limited, so reservations are recommended.

The uphill walk could take 30-40 minutes and looked challenging in the August heat. 

Those who opted to drive found more free parking near the crater. Once parked, the view was stunning: a crater with a pond-like interior, continuous steam, and unfortunately a strong sulfur smell that made breathing and staying close uncomfortable. I felt dizzy and began to cough after a few minutes. You could observe the crater from designated viewpoints labeled A, B, D, E. Helicopters occasionally flew by, giving tourists aerial views of the crater - quite thrilling to see! It was an unforgettable but sobering experience.

The Nakadake crater - one of Mt. Aso’s five peaks is still active and makes for a mesmerizing sight when visible. The crater is about 600 m in diameter and 130 m deep.

Previously restricted, the crater area reopened in July 2024, but access may still be limited due to gas levels or weather.

Strong volcanic gases are a health hazard. Visitors with asthma or respiratory issues should avoid going near the crater rim.

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Japan Trip – Day 2: Suizenji Jojuen Garden

Travel dates: 2025/08/13-18

For our second day in Kumamoto, I planned a visit to Kumamoto Castle with nearby shrines in the morning, followed by Suizenji Jojuen Garden in the afternoon.

The night before, we had already walked to the castle area to check where the entrance and ticket booth were located since we were supposed to meet with my husband’s coworker there. At 8 PM, the shopping street nearby was completely deserted- nobody around at all. It was such a contrast to the next morning, when the streets were filled with people heading to the castle.

The weather was extremely hot, as expected in mid-August - over 30°C and sometimes closer to 40°C. Still, the bright blue sky made the castle look even more beautiful. We were also lucky: just a few days earlier, Kumamoto had suffered from heavy floods, and it had only stopped raining the day before our arrival! 

Check out Kumamoto Castle LINK

Suizenji Jojuen Garden

After lunch, we hopped on a tram to visit Suizenji Jojuen Garden (水前寺成趣園). The ride took about 20 minutes. Using the tram is quite simple: you enter through the back door, and when you get off, you pay at the fare box by the driver. There’s a coin exchange machine on board in case you don’t have small change.

 

The fare is 200 yen for adults and 100 yen for children, no matter the distance. A one-day pass costs 500 yen if you plan to ride several times. We tried using a credit card, which didn’t work, but a Suica card was accepted (though I had read earlier that Kumamoto prefers other payment systems).

Suizenji Jojuen is a traditional Japanese landscape garden originally built in the 17th century by the Hosokawa clan, the ruling family of Kumamoto. The garden was designed to represent the Tōkaidō road, the historic route between Edo (Tokyo) and Kyoto, with miniature reproductions of famous landmarks such as Mount Fuji.

The garden is beautifully maintained, with a large pond filled with koi fish, carefully shaped pine trees, stone lanterns, and bridges. The water in the pond is so clean that you can even see the fish clearly - and they are so used to people that you can touch them if they come close.

Inside Suizenji Garden, you’ll also find Izumi Shrine, which was established in 1878. The shrine is dedicated to the Hosokawa family, who ruled Kumamoto for centuries. It serves as the family’s ancestral shrine and a place where they are still honored today.

The main hall is simple but elegant, with bright red torii gates leading up to it. Around the grounds, you’ll see stone lanterns and guardian lion-dog statues. Like most Shinto shrines, you can’t go inside the main hall, but you’re welcome to walk around, offer a prayer, or ring the bell.

Izumi Shrine also has a very special feature – a natural spring that flows right in front of the shrine. The water is so pure that it’s often used in traditional tea ceremonies, and some people even bring bottles to take it home. This spring is one of the reasons the Hosokawa family chose this site for the garden back in the 17th century.

Even if you’re not familiar with Japanese history, the shrine adds a beautiful cultural layer to the peaceful setting of Suizenji Garden. It’s a lovely spot to pause, take in the atmosphere, and appreciate how history, nature, and spirituality all come together here.

The garden is open from 8:30 AM to 5 PM. Before entering, there are vending machines where you can grab a drink. There is also a small shop inside, but it didn’t look very busy, so I wasn’t sure what exactly they served.

On the Thursday afternoon when we visited, it was quiet, with very few other visitors, which made the experience especially relaxing.

In the Evening

After the garden, we took the tram back to the hotel to rest a bit before dinner. In the evening, we went to Sakuramachi Shopping Mall, which was much busier compared to the first night. Some restaurants, like BBQ places, were already fully booked. In the end, we went for sushi again, which was fresh and delicious.

One thing I really appreciate about Japan is that public toilets are everywhere. They are not only free, but also very clean and always stocked with toilet paper. This is not always the case in Taiwan, and in Europe it’s even worse as you have to pay. For example, in Poland, using a public toilet often costs about 5 PLN per person (around 40 NTD), which can add up quickly if you’re traveling as a family.

Since most shops in Japan close early (around 8 PM), there wasn’t much to do afterward, so we spent the rest of the evening relaxing at the hotel.

That was our Day 2 in Kumamoto - a mix of history, culture, and nature, with some great food in between.

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Japan Trip – Day 2: Kumamoto Castle, Shrines

Travel dates: 2025/08/13-18

For our second day in Kumamoto, I planned a visit to Kumamoto Castle with nearby shrines in the morning, followed by Suizenji Jojuen Garden in the afternoon.

The night before, we had already walked to the castle area to check where the entrance and ticket booth were located since we were supposed to meet with my husband’s coworker there. At 8 PM, the shopping street nearby was completely deserted- nobody around at all. It was such a contrast to the next morning, when the streets were filled with people heading to the castle.

The weather was extremely hot, as expected in mid-August - over 30°C and sometimes closer to 40°C. Still, the bright blue sky made the castle look even more beautiful. We were also lucky: just a few days earlier, Kumamoto had suffered from heavy floods, and it had only stopped raining the day before our arrival! 

Check out Suizenji Jojuen Garden LINK

About Kumamoto Castle

Kumamoto Castle (熊本城, Kumamoto-jō) is one of the most famous castles in Japan, originally built in 1607 by the powerful feudal lord Katō Kiyomasa. Known for its massive stone walls, wooden structures, and ingenious defensive design, it became one of the “Three Great Castles of Japan.”

The castle grounds once held over 49 turrets and an extensive network of moats, making it one of the most formidable strongholds in the country.

Unfortunately, the castle suffered heavy damage during the 2016 Kumamoto earthquakes, which destroyed many of its towers and walls. Since then, ongoing restoration has been carefully bringing the castle back to life. Today, visitors can walk around the outer grounds, see the reconstructed main keep, and admire the resilience of this historical landmark. Special viewing paths also allow you to get closer to areas under repair, giving a fascinating glimpse into how traditional and modern techniques are being combined to restore the site.

Restoration is still ongoing and is expected to continue until 2052. Because of this, some paths remain closed, and the visiting route is shorter than before. 

Despite not being fully restored, the castle is truly impressive. The black-and-white wooden towers look elegant against the sky, and the exhibitions inside bring its history to life.

In spring, the castle park is especially popular for cherry blossoms, attracting both locals and tourists for hanami picnics. Even if you cannot enter every part of the castle yet, strolling around its grounds and learning about its dramatic history is a truly memorable experience.

Katō Shrine

Behind the castle stands Katō Shrine (加藤神社, Katō Jinja), dedicated to Katō Kiyomasa (1562–1611), the castle’s founder. He’s revered not just as a military lord but also as a patron of builders, athletes, and students - many come to pray for success, inspired by his unbeatable spirit and the fortuitous play on his surname, which in Japanese means “to win.

Two of Kiyomasa’s loyal retainers, Ōki Kaneyoshi and Kin Kan, who followed their master in death, are also enshrined here as symbols of unwavering devotion.

To reach the shrine from the castle, we had to take a detour because several castle paths were closed due to ongoing construction. On the way, we passed a souvenir shop and parking area, where we happily grabbed some cold drinks and ice cream - much needed in the summer heat!

The shrine was built in 1871 under the name Nishikiyama Shrine, located directly within Kumamoto Castle as part of the Shinto–Buddhism separation policy. After several relocations, including due to military occupation and a fire during the Satsuma Rebellion, it found its current location within the castle grounds in 1962. The modern structure is built of concrete, designed to resist fire, and remarkably stood firm after the 2016 earthquakes.

Look for the ancient ginkgo tree, said to be planted by Katō Kiyomasa himself. Across from it stands a stone bridge, brought from Korea, which local folklore says brings success to those who walk across it. Katō Shrine is open to the public at all hours, with free parking for up to 40 vehicles (including buses), making it easy to visit before or after exploring the castle.

The shrine is especially lively during New Year celebrations and festivals. From the shrine grounds, you also get one of the best views of Kumamoto Castle, which makes the visit even more worthwhile.

Inari Shrine

Walking further, we came across a smaller Inari Shrine (熊本城稲荷神社) along the main road.

Nestled at the base of Kumamoto Castle, this quaint Inari shrine dates back to 1588, built by Katō Kiyomasa as a spiritual protector for the castle and its surrounding town.

Locals affectionately call it “Shirahige-san” (the White-Bearded Deity), a name rooted in its spiritual significance and endearment.

The shrine enshrines Inari, the Shinto deity of rice, prosperity, business success, and household safety. Inari's fox messengers are a frequent presence at the site.

You'll also find mini shrines and statues dedicated to various Inari aspects, each offering different blessings from love and education to road safety.

Try the Chie-no-wa Kuguri, or “circle of wisdom”—walk through a wreath-like loop in a specific left-right pattern to ward off ailments.

The Water Fortune (mizu mikuji) is a playful experience: place your paper fortune in water and watch the message appear—great for families!

You can also collect a goshuin, a hand-stamped shrine seal that's a lovely travel keepsake (typically around 500 yen).

The Hatsu Uma Taisai (First Horse Festival) in February is the shrine’s main event. During this day, visitors pray for bountiful harvests, safe homes, and business success—and enjoy rituals like mochimaki, where rice cakes are tossed to the crowd.

Lunch – Delicious Eel Rice

For lunch, we stopped at 鰻の成瀬 熊本市庁舎通り店, a restaurant specializing in unagi (grilled eel). It was absolutely delicious - soft, flavorful, and perfectly cooked. If you enjoy Japanese cuisine, I highly recommend this place. The restaurant is located near Cocosa Shopping Mall and Tsuruya Department Store, so it’s convenient to fit into a sightseeing.

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