Travel dates: 2025/08/13-18
For our second day in Kumamoto, I planned a visit to Kumamoto Castle with nearby shrines in the morning, followed by Suizenji Jojuen Garden in the afternoon.
The night before, we had already walked to the castle area to check where the entrance and ticket booth were located since we were supposed to meet with my husband’s coworker there. At 8 PM, the shopping street nearby was completely deserted- nobody around at all. It was such a contrast to the next morning, when the streets were filled with people heading to the castle.
The weather was extremely hot, as expected in mid-August - over 30°C and sometimes closer to 40°C. Still, the bright blue sky made the castle look even more beautiful. We were also lucky: just a few days earlier, Kumamoto had suffered from heavy floods, and it had only stopped raining the day before our arrival!
Check out Suizenji Jojuen Garden LINK
About Kumamoto Castle
Kumamoto Castle (熊本城, Kumamoto-jō) is one of the most famous castles in Japan, originally built in 1607 by the powerful feudal lord Katō Kiyomasa. Known for its massive stone walls, wooden structures, and ingenious defensive design, it became one of the “Three Great Castles of Japan.”
The castle grounds once held over 49 turrets and an extensive network of moats, making it one of the most formidable strongholds in the country.
Unfortunately, the castle suffered heavy damage during the 2016 Kumamoto earthquakes, which destroyed many of its towers and walls. Since then, ongoing restoration has been carefully bringing the castle back to life. Today, visitors can walk around the outer grounds, see the reconstructed main keep, and admire the resilience of this historical landmark. Special viewing paths also allow you to get closer to areas under repair, giving a fascinating glimpse into how traditional and modern techniques are being combined to restore the site.
Restoration is still ongoing and is expected to continue until 2052. Because of this, some paths remain closed, and the visiting route is shorter than before.
Despite not being fully restored, the castle is truly impressive. The black-and-white wooden towers look elegant against the sky, and the exhibitions inside bring its history to life.
In spring, the castle park is especially popular for cherry blossoms, attracting both locals and tourists for hanami picnics. Even if you cannot enter every part of the castle yet, strolling around its grounds and learning about its dramatic history is a truly memorable experience.
Katō Shrine
Behind the castle stands Katō Shrine (加藤神社, Katō Jinja), dedicated to Katō Kiyomasa (1562–1611), the castle’s founder. He’s revered not just as a military lord but also as a patron of builders, athletes, and students - many come to pray for success, inspired by his unbeatable spirit and the fortuitous play on his surname, which in Japanese means “to win.
Two of Kiyomasa’s loyal retainers, Ōki Kaneyoshi and Kin Kan, who followed their master in death, are also enshrined here as symbols of unwavering devotion.
To reach the shrine from the castle, we had to take a detour because several castle paths were closed due to ongoing construction. On the way, we passed a souvenir shop and parking area, where we happily grabbed some cold drinks and ice cream - much needed in the summer heat!
The shrine was built in 1871 under the name Nishikiyama Shrine, located directly within Kumamoto Castle as part of the Shinto–Buddhism separation policy. After several relocations, including due to military occupation and a fire during the Satsuma Rebellion, it found its current location within the castle grounds in 1962. The modern structure is built of concrete, designed to resist fire, and remarkably stood firm after the 2016 earthquakes.
Look for the ancient ginkgo tree, said to be planted by Katō Kiyomasa himself. Across from it stands a stone bridge, brought from Korea, which local folklore says brings success to those who walk across it. Katō Shrine is open to the public at all hours, with free parking for up to 40 vehicles (including buses), making it easy to visit before or after exploring the castle.
The shrine is especially lively during New Year celebrations and festivals. From the shrine grounds, you also get one of the best views of Kumamoto Castle, which makes the visit even more worthwhile.
Inari Shrine
Walking further, we came across a smaller Inari Shrine (熊本城稲荷神社) along the main road.
Nestled at the base of Kumamoto Castle, this quaint Inari shrine dates back to 1588, built by Katō Kiyomasa as a spiritual protector for the castle and its surrounding town.
Locals affectionately call it “Shirahige-san” (the White-Bearded Deity), a name rooted in its spiritual significance and endearment.
The shrine enshrines Inari, the Shinto deity of rice, prosperity, business success, and household safety. Inari's fox messengers are a frequent presence at the site.
You'll also find mini shrines and statues dedicated to various Inari aspects, each offering different blessings from love and education to road safety.
Try the Chie-no-wa Kuguri, or “circle of wisdom”—walk through a wreath-like loop in a specific left-right pattern to ward off ailments.
The Water Fortune (mizu mikuji) is a playful experience: place your paper fortune in water and watch the message appear—great for families!
You can also collect a goshuin, a hand-stamped shrine seal that's a lovely travel keepsake (typically around 500 yen).
The Hatsu Uma Taisai (First Horse Festival) in February is the shrine’s main event. During this day, visitors pray for bountiful harvests, safe homes, and business success—and enjoy rituals like mochimaki, where rice cakes are tossed to the crowd.
Lunch – Delicious Eel Rice
For lunch, we stopped at 鰻の成瀬 熊本市庁舎通り店, a restaurant specializing in unagi (grilled eel). It was absolutely delicious - soft, flavorful, and perfectly cooked. If you enjoy Japanese cuisine, I highly recommend this place. The restaurant is located near Cocosa Shopping Mall and Tsuruya Department Store, so it’s convenient to fit into a sightseeing.
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