Discover Płock: The Ducal Capital of Poland

The weather was getting better, so we went on a trip to Płock, a city located about a 50-minute drive from Włocławek. The town was nearly empty, maybe due to the cold. Parking is very convenient, as there are many parking spaces near the castle, costing 3 PLN per hour. We went on to visit the basilica, but we couldn’t see the castle inside. It’s converted into a museum, but unfortunately, it was closed until February 4th, just the exact date we fly back to Taiwan. Well, maybe next time. We also went to explore the city, including the town hall, a monument of a king, and an old city wall.

Płock

Nestled along the scenic banks of the Vistula River, Płock is a city brimming with history, culture, and architectural splendor. Located in central Poland, this historic gem has a legacy stretching back over a millennium. 

Płock’s story begins in the 10th century as a fortified settlement strategically located at the crossroads of trade routes. By 1079, it rose to prominence as the capital of Poland under the reign of Władysław I Herman and Bolesław III Wrymouth. The city earned its ceremonial title, Stołeczne Książęce Miasto Płock (Ducal Capital City of Płock), which is still used today in official documents.

One of the city’s most iconic landmarks is Wzgórze Tumskie (Cathedral Hill), home to the Płock Cathedral and the Płock Castle. The cathedral is the final resting place of several Polish monarchs and a testament to the city’s medieval significance.

Płock also holds the distinction of being home to Poland’s oldest school, the Marshal Stanisław Małachowski High School (founded in 1180), which continues to educate students to this day. It's also the seat of one of Poland's oldest dioceses, established in 1075, and the worldwide headquarters of the Mariavite Church. 

The city has faced its share of challenges, from medieval invasions to occupations during World War II. During the war, Płock became a center of Polish resistance against Nazi Germany. Its residents endured immense hardships, including deportations and forced labor, yet their spirit remained unbroken.

In 1920, Płock earned national recognition for its heroic defense against Soviet forces during the Polish-Soviet War, receiving the prestigious Cross of Valour.

Płock Cathedral

Located on the picturesque Tumskie Hill overlooking the Vistula River, Płock Cathedral (Katedra Płocka) is not only the spiritual heart of Płock but also a remarkable testament to Poland’s medieval and Renaissance heritage. With a history dating back to the 12th century, the cathedral encapsulates centuries of art, culture, and historical events that shaped the nation.  

Płock’s prominence as a religious center began with the founding of its bishopric around 1075. By 1102, the cathedral became a burial site for Władysław I Herman, a significant figure in Polish history. The construction of the Romanesque cathedral we see today was initiated by Prince Bolesław III Wrymouth and Bishop Aleksander of Malonne in 1136. Completed in 1144, this church was consecrated as the Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary and stood as a masterpiece of early Romanesque architecture in Poland. A defining feature of the cathedral's early history is its bronze doors, crafted in Magdeburg around 1150. These doors, featuring bas-reliefs that narrate religious stories and the Roman Confession of Faith, were unfortunately relocated to Velikiy Novgorod during the medieval period. However, a faithful replica was created and installed in the 1980s, allowing modern visitors to marvel at their artistry. 

The cathedral’s architecture is a stunning blend of Romanesque and Renaissance styles, with subsequent Gothic and Baroque influences evident in its later additions and restorations.  

One of the most notable features of Płock Cathedral is the Royal Chapel, which houses the tombs of Władysław I Herman and his son, Bolesław III Wrymouth. These rulers played pivotal roles in Polish history, with Płock serving as the nation’s capital during their reign (1079–1138).  

Their remains rest in a marble sarcophagus, a symbol of Poland’s royal heritage. The chapel serves as a powerful reminder of the city’s historical significance during the medieval period.  

The cathedral’s interiors are adorned with a rich array of artistic works. In 2018, the Polish government designated Płock Cathedral and Tumskie Hill as a Historic Monument of Poland. This status highlights its cultural, historical, and artistic importance. Tumskie Hill offers breathtaking views of the Vistula River and is home to other historical landmarks, including Płock Castle, which once served as a residence for the Dukes of Masovia.  

Płock Castle

Płock Castle, also known as the Castle of the Masovian Dukes, is a stunning Gothic structure located in the heart of Płock, Poland. Built during the reign of Casimir III the Great, it served as a stronghold for the Dukes of Masovia until the 15th century. Perched on a steep hillside overlooking the Vistula River, the castle's impressive architecture and rich history make it a remarkable piece of Poland's medieval heritage.

The origins of the castle date back to the 11th century when a wooden fortress was established on the site. Over time, the stronghold was fortified, with walls and dikes protecting the area. By 1194, a chapel and defensive living quarters were constructed, marking a significant step in the development of the site.

The castle began to take its current form in the late 13th century, under the reign of Casimir III the Great. The stronghold was expanded and reinforced with bricks, and two towers were added. The square-shaped complex featured a clock tower in the northern part, alongside the Szlachecka Tower in the south-west, with its unique octagonal upper half.

Over the centuries, the castle underwent various transformations. In 1532, it suffered damage due to the partial removal of the hillside but was rebuilt shortly after. In 1538, the Masovian dukes moved to a newly built palace outside the castle walls, and the Benedictine order took over the castle. The castle was heavily damaged during the Swedish wars in 1657 and 1705 but was later reconstructed. By the 18th century, the castle had been transformed into a Baroque-style Benedictine Abbey, which lasted until 1781. 

After the Partitions of Poland, the Prussian authorities ordered the deconstruction of some of the defensive walls. In the late 19th century, the castle became a center for spiritual seminars. Following World War II, the castle underwent renovation and, since 1973, has housed a museum showcasing the rich history of the region.

Today, Płock Castle serves as a museum, preserving and showcasing the history and architectural significance of the region.

Town Hall

The town hall is known for its tradition of playing a bugle call from the tower. The tune was composed by Fr. Kazimierz Starościński in the 1930s.

According to Bishop Antoni Julian Nowowiejski, a previous town hall structure was demolished in the early 19th century due to its poor condition. This older structure stood near the center of the market area, which featured butchers and a platform for corporal punishment. Bishop Nowowiejski places the start date for the current city hall as 1820, but other sources state it was built between 1824 and 1827. Jakub Kubicki worked on the town hall in 1826–1827.

On 23 September 1831, during the November Uprising, the last Sejm of the Kingdom of Poland was held at the town hall.

City Wall

In the Middle Ages, Płock was protected by a town wall 1.7 kilometers in length. Its construction was initiated in the middle of the 14th century under Casimir the Great. A fragment of the wall, about 15 meters long, has survived at the intersection of Bielska and Antoniego Juliana Nowowiejskiego streets, recalling the once imposing city fortifications. At Zduńska Street, there are some remains of a bastion from the 14th century.

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Discovering Ciechocinek: Poland’s Healing Spa Town

We got an invitation from a family I haven’t seen for several years, mainly due to our relationship not being very close (the daughter of my grandfather’s brother). They live near a town called Ciechocinek, so we also stopped by to check out the town. I had been there many years ago, but during the summer, so it was a totally different view. In winter, the salt graduation towers aren’t in operation, so except for the 200-year-old constructions, we didn’t see much.

Nestled in the heart of Kuyavian-Pomeranian Voivodeship in north-central Poland, Ciechocinek is a charming spa town known for its therapeutic atmosphere, rich history, and architectural wonders. With a population of just over 10,000 residents, this small town is a hidden gem that has been drawing visitors for over two centuries.

Ciechocinek's history dates back to the Middle Ages, but its development as a spa town began in 1836. The town’s transformation accelerated in the 19th century, thanks to the construction of the graduation towers and the establishment of a railway connection with Bydgoszcz and Warsaw in 1867. By 1916, Ciechocinek was granted town rights, solidifying its status as a premier health destination.

Despite the hardships of World War II, including Nazi occupation and the expulsion of its Polish residents, Ciechocinek emerged resilient. After the war, the town regained its prominence as a health resort, and its facilities were restored and expanded.

At the heart of Ciechocinek lies its most iconic attraction: the salt graduation towers. These monumental wooden structures, dating back to the 19th century, are not only a marvel of engineering but also a cornerstone of the town’s healing legacy. Standing 15.8 meters tall and stretching over 1,741 meters in length, the three towers form a horseshoe shape and are built on thousands of oak piles. Their construction was initiated by the renowned Polish scientist Stanisław Staszic and designed by Jakub Graff.

The graduation towers are the largest wooden structures used to evaporate water from brine in Europe. The three huge structures were built between 1824 and 1859. The graduation towers concentrate the brine collected from the spring, over which the “Grzybek” fountain was built. The water is pumped to the top of the graduation towers and then seeps drop by drop through the blackthorn-covered walls and is evaporated due to the exposure to wind and sun. The concentrated brine is then pumped to the saltworks.

The towers serve as natural inhalers, creating a therapeutic microclimate rich in iodine, bromine, and salt particles. Visitors can walk along the towers, breathe in the salty air, and experience the health benefits of this unique environment. Climbing the spiral staircase to the catwalk offers a closer view of the brine trickling through blackthorn branches—a mesmerizing process that concentrates the saltwater and enriches the air.

Ciechocinek's reputation as a health resort stems from its mineral-rich saline springs. The town’s therapeutic brine is believed to alleviate ailments related to the cardiovascular system, respiratory issues, rheumatism, and even neurological conditions. Visitors can enjoy treatments such as salt baths, inhalation therapies, and mud wraps, all while surrounded by the serene ambiance of the spa park.

While the graduation towers are the main draw, Ciechocinek offers much more to explore. The Spa Park, with its meticulously landscaped gardens, fountains, and monuments, is a tranquil haven for relaxation. History enthusiasts will appreciate the Monument of Stanisław Staszic and the town’s well-preserved architecture. Sports fans can catch a local football match featuring Zdrój Ciechocinek, the town’s team. The park is also home to many ducks, and if you want to feed them, you can buy duck feed from a vending machine. A stroll through the nearby park reveals two charming wooden buildings. 

One of these wooden buildings houses Wedel, a famous Polish chocolate company. Here, you can enjoy a cup of rich drinking chocolate and pick up some sweet treats. Right next to it is the historic Concert Shell, designed by Waldemar Piotr Fedders and built in 1909 in the Zakopane style, which is quite unique for this region. Even today, the antique Concert Shell hosts performances throughout the summer.

The Concert Shell is located in the center of Spa Park. It was designed by Waldemar Piotr Fedders as a concert stage and was built in 1909 in the Zakopane style, which is quite unusual for Ciechocinek. Over the years, many well-known performers from across Poland have graced this stage, including the famous Spa Orchestra.

Even today, the Concert Shell comes alive throughout the summer. It hosts artists from various Ciechocinek festivals, such as the Kuyavian and Dobrzyń Land Folklore Meetings, the National Firefighters' Song Festival, the Polish Tenors Gala, the Opera and Operetta Festival, the "Blues Without Barriers" Festival, and the Festival of Songs for Youth with Disabilities.

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Poland Travel: Salt Mine Kłodawa - A Hidden Gem in Poland

After visiting the Basilica of Lichen early this morning, we drove an hour to see the salt mine in Kłodawa. There is spacious parking available, but it's advisable to arrive half an hour early. You will be asked to fill in your information and wait for the guide to take you underground. The entire tour lasts about 2.5 hours, allowing visitors to experience the unique atmosphere of the mine, with a constant temperature of 20°C throughout the year. The tour must be booked in advance, and there are two time slots available each day, costing 80 PLN per adult. Visitors can wear real miners' safety helmets, adding an authentic touch to the experience, and take memorable photos with machinery and underground salt formations.

This salt mine is the largest active rock salt mine in Poland and a fascinating destination that blends industrial prowess with natural wonder. It is known for its unique pinkish-white salt, a rare variety caused by natural iron infusion, found nowhere else in Europe except Kłodawa.

The Kłodawa salt dome was discovered through gravitational studies conducted by Professor Edward Janczewski between 1937 and 1939, revealing a vast salt structure stretching across 63 kilometers. In the post-war years, further exploration confirmed the existence of the Kłodawa salt dome—the largest in the Polish Lowlands—measuring 26 kilometers in length and up to 2 kilometers in width.

Check out Basilica of Our Lady of Licheń LINK

Construction of the mine began in the autumn of 1949, with the excavation of the "Michał" and "Barbara" shafts between 1950 and 1954. Salt extraction officially began in 1956, with the use of 40 horses working underground to transport salt. This operation continued until 1966 when the mine introduced electric traction. 

The surface facilities, such as the "Chrobry" ventilation shaft, were also expanded during this time to improve mining efficiency.

Today, the Kłodawa Salt Mine operates at depths of up to 810 meters, with resources expected to last for several decades. The mine produces approximately 650,000 tonnes of rock salt annually, accounting for 88% of Poland's rock salt production. The salt extracted is used in various industries, including food production, agriculture, chemicals, and road maintenance during winter months.

Over millions of years, salt deposits from ancient seas were uplifted, leaving the Kłodawa region with an overburden as thin as 100 meters in some areas. The mine extracts several types of salt, such as older white rock salt, older gray rock salt, magnesium-potassium salt, and young pink rock salt, which is prized for its unique color and flavor.

Kłodawa Salt Mine is not only a vital industrial site but also a major tourist attraction. It features the world’s deepest underground tourist route, extending to a depth of 600 meters. Visitors descend via mining elevators, traveling at 6 meters per second, and explore illuminated salt caverns, observe mining tools and machinery, and learn about the mine's history and operations.

The tour also includes a ghost chamber and a chapel dedicated to Saint Kinga, the patron saint of salt miners. The chapel features a remarkable salt sculpture of Saint Kinga, as well as a commemorative plaque honoring 20 miners who lost their lives underground. The mine’s microclimate is also said to have a beneficial effect on respiratory health, making it an ideal place for therapeutic visits.

While the Kłodawa Salt Mine doesn’t have the medieval charm of other famous Polish mines like Wieliczka or Bochnia, it offers a modern and functional experience. As a fully operational facility, it provides a rare insight into contemporary mining practices. The mine’s extensive tunnel network spans over 350 kilometers, showcasing modern machinery and techniques that differ greatly from the historical mining methods seen in older mines.

The Kłodawa Salt Mine has earned numerous accolades for its exceptional operations and contributions to the industry. In 2007, the mine made headlines when it hosted the deepest underground music concert ever held, at a depth of 600 meters, earning a Guinness World Record for this incredible achievement. The mine's importance is also reflected in its protection under the Natura 2000 program since 2008, due to its unique geological and ecological significance.

Whether you're exploring the mine for its industrial importance, remarkable salt deposits, or health benefits, the Kłodawa Salt Mine offers a truly one-of-a-kind experience. With its combination of history, modern technology, and natural beauty, it's a must-visit destination for anyone seeking to explore Poland's industrial heritage and cultural landmarks.

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Poland Travel: Basilica of Our Lady of Licheń

The first week in Poland flew by with family visits and cozy moments indoors at my aunt’s house. After several gloomy days, we were finally blessed with sunshine, though the weather was still quite cold. I had already booked an afternoon tour at a salt mine, but with some time to spare in the morning, we decided to explore the Basilica of Our Lady of Licheń.

Back in Taiwan, my husband watched a video about the world’s largest churches, and this basilica was listed among the top ten. There was another, even larger, church within a four-hour drive, but it feels a bit far to go during winter season, so we settled on visiting the Basilica of Licheń. It has an area of 30,000 square metres and  can accommodate up to 18,000 worshippers.

When we arrived after an hour-long drive, we found a spacious parking area in front of the basilica, making it very convenient for visitors. As it was still cold, there were barely any people around. I imagine the scene would be quite different during the summer season!

The basilica is free to visit, though guided tours are available. These tours, lasting between one to three hours, are offered in Polish and English. Prices range from 200 to 450 PLN for Polish tours and 300 to 600 PLN for English tours. Personally, I feel that a tour isn’t necessary since walking around and exploring on your own provides a fulfilling experience. However, if you’re interested in a more detailed exploration, the guided tours might be a good option.

Check out Kłodawa Salt Mine LINK

The Basilica, located in the village of Licheń Stary, is one of the largest and tallest Catholic churches in the world. Its origins date back to 1813, when a Polish soldier, Tomasz Kłossowski, had a vision of the Virgin Mary during the Napoleonic Wars. She appeared adorned in a golden crown and a red gown, holding a white eagle—a symbol of Poland. She promised Tomasz recovery and tasked him with commissioning an image of her for public devotion. This icon, known as Our Lady of Sorrows, Queen of Poland, now resides on the basilica’s main altar.

Designed by the Polish architect Barbara Bielecka, the basilica was constructed between 1994 and 2004, funded entirely by pilgrims’ donations. The nave stretches 120 meters long and 77 meters wide, while the central dome rises 98 meters high. The iconic tower, standing 141.5 meters tall, is a remarkable feature of the structure.

The tower has 762 steps leading to the top. Visitors can either climb the stairs for 2 PLN or take an elevator ride for 5 PLN. Unfortunately, the tower was closed during winter, so we couldn’t experience the view from above.

At first, we thought the church itself might also be closed since some areas were roped off with signs prohibiting entry. However, there are many doors leading inside, and after seeing others enter, we followed. The interior is incredibly spacious and beautifully designed. 

The basilica also houses Poland’s largest pipe organ, featuring 157 stops, six manuals, and a pedalboard. Built between 2002 and 2007, it ranks as the 4th largest organ in Europe and the 13th worldwide.

We stayed for a short while, just long enough to witness the start of a Mass, before leaving quietly.

Outside, the grounds were serene but freezing. The shaded areas were still icy, making the ground slippery—I almost fell near a pond but managed to catch myself in time! Despite the cold, the peaceful atmosphere made the visit worthwhile.

Blessed by Pope John Paul II in 1999, the Basilica of Our Lady of Licheń stands as a testament to faith, resilience, and Polish heritage. It’s a place of worship, a cultural treasure, and a source of inspiration for countless visitors.

After our visit, we headed to our next destination: the salt mine in Kłodawa, another fantastic place to explore.

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Is Poland expensive? Food prices in Poland

While in Poland, we took a shopping trip to explore the current prices and products available in February 2025. From baked goods to dairy, seafood, and Asian imports, here’s a detailed look at what you can find in a Polish supermarket.

Watch the video for item prices in PLN, USD, and NTD!

Poland offers a wide variety of bread, typically priced between 3 to 5 PLN (24 to 40 NT). Unlike in Taiwan, there’s no sweet toast bread, but you’ll find plenty of wheat and rye options. What’s unique is that you can slice the bread yourself in many stores.

Polish supermarkets have an extensive dairy section. Besides standard milk, you’ll find buttermilk, kefir, yogurt, cottage cheese, sour milk, cream, quark, and butter. Quark is traditionally used for cheesecake, but pre-ground cheese mixes have reduced its use. Mascarpone cheese is significantly cheaper than in Taiwan.

Due to the winter season, fresh fruit options were somewhat limited. The most common fruits were oranges, apples, pears, lychee, and persimmons. Surprisingly, I found sweet potatoes in Poland for the first time! Staple vegetables included carrots, onions, parsley, potatoes, and cabbage. There were also pre-packaged mixes of vegetables for making chicken soup.

Mushrooms—especially button mushrooms—and hazelnuts were readily available. The selection of leafy greens was quite small compared to Taiwan.

Polish supermarkets have an extensive range of meats, including pork, beef, chicken, duck, goose, and turkey. Offal is also available, including tripe, which is used in flaki, a traditional Polish soup. Fresh and smoked fish were common, though the salmon was quite salty.

A variety of sausages, hams, and cold cuts make for excellent sandwich options or can be eaten on their own. Ready-to-eat salads and herring dishes were also available.

Frozen vegetables, mushrooms, and ready-to-eat meals were widely available. Poland offers a variety of dumplings and potato noodles, often with sweet fillings like strawberry, blueberry, or sweet cheese—something that might surprise foreigners.

Steamed buns, similar to mantou, are also sold and often paired with fruit. Despite the cold weather, ice cream was still in stock, and we even found ice cream mochi!

Rhubarb, though technically a vegetable, is commonly used in cakes and desserts in Poland.

The snack selection has expanded over the years, and we even found poppy seed-flavored chips—a very Polish touch! However, rice selection remains small, often limited to boil-in-bag packets. In Poland, groats and potatoes are the go-to staples.

Polish instant noodles are quite basic and typically don’t contain meat, but more Asian brands are now available. While there weren’t many Asian seasonings, the basics are easy to find. Some interesting finds included Taiwanese-made mochi, sago pearls, and glutinous rice powder.

Korean products are now common, making it easier for those who love Asian food to cook their favorite dishes while living in Poland.

The sweets section in Polish supermarkets is seemingly endless. Beautifully packaged chocolates and candies make perfect gifts. Popular Polish treats include Ptasie Mleczko, Delicje, gingerbreads, and Michałki. Halva is also widely available.

Wedel, one of Poland’s oldest and most famous chocolate brands, offers a vast range of flavors.

For breakfast, there’s no shortage of muesli, oats, and cereals. You can also find canned poppy seed filling (though it can’t be brought to Taiwan), as well as cake fillings, peanut butter, cookies, and ready-to-fill sponge cakes. For those who don’t bake from scratch, plenty of cake mix options are available.

Kisiel and budyń are two popular Polish desserts that can be made from scratch or from powder. Jelly powders and a wide selection of jams are also common. Unlike in Taiwan, fruit jams and juices are a staple in Polish supermarkets.

Poland offers a diverse selection of honey and other bee-related products. Coffee is a household staple, with shelves filled with coffee beans, ground coffee, and even chicory root-based coffee for those avoiding caffeine.

Green tea is becoming more popular, though flavored teas remain the dominant choice. You can find pu-erh tea and a variety of fruit teas, which aren’t as common in Taiwan.

Poland offers a diverse range of products, from traditional foods to modern trends and international items. Whether you’re looking for Polish classics or Asian ingredients, there’s a little something for everyone.

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