Exploring Toruń: A Winter Visit to Poland's Gothic Gem

If you’ve been following my journey, you’ll know that we’ve explored many incredible places in Poland - be sure to check out my previous posts for more travel inspiration! Or check out my YouTube channel ~

This time, we revisited Toruń, a charming Gothic city known for its historic buildings and castle. Unfortunately, the weather wasn’t on our side - it was a freezing 0 degrees with barely any sunshine. Walking through the city wasn’t the most pleasant experience, so after less than two hours, we decided to drive back and visit a family who had invited us over.

We parked near St. Catherine’s Church, where we discovered an interesting fact - parking is free on weekends! However, since we’re not locals, we didn’t realize this at first. The payment station only displayed the hourly price, and I only noticed after already paying (the parking date stated Monday). At least parking is still relatively cheap in Poland.

Saint Jacob's Church: A Hidden Treasure

Our first stop was Saint Jacob's Church, considered the most beautiful of Toruń’s churches. This unique basilica features a system of straining arches and stunning Gothic paintings, as well as Baroque and Rococo altars. Unfortunately, visitors can only enter during mass or special ceremonies, as the entrance is blocked by bars when closed. This seems to be a common trend, as we’ve seen similar restrictions in several other churches. 

A Walk to Toruń Castle

Next, we headed to the castle ruins. Since we visited in winter, we decided to skip a full tour. Convincing my husband to visit Toruń again might be a challenge, as it has become our go-to destination whenever we return to Poland! Nevertheless, Toruń remains one of the most beautiful cities in my eyes.

Toruń Castle, a 13th/14th-century fortress built by the Teutonic Order, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was the first Teutonic castle in the Chełmno Land and played a crucial role in the order's mission to colonize the pagan Old Prussians. Today, only a small portion of the castle remains, including the sewage tower and cellars. The site has been partially excavated and rebuilt, with permanent exhibits showcasing historical rooms such as the armory, kitchen, dormitory, scriptorium, and mint.

The Leaning Tower and Medieval Fortifications

Walking behind the castle along the riverside road, we noticed that an area that was previously closed for renovation two years ago was now accessible. This provided a fantastic view of the old city walls and gates.

Toruń originally had three separate defensive systems: the Old City, the New City, and the Teutonic Castle. The city was once enclosed by a 4-kilometer wall featuring 54 fortified towers, 11 gates, and 2 barbicans. Today, only nine towers and three gates remain, standing as reminders of the city's medieval fortifications.

One of Toruń’s most famous landmarks is the Leaning Tower. Originally built in the 14th century as part of the city walls, the tower started leaning due to unstable ground conditions. Despite this, it has remained stable over the centuries. Standing 15 meters tall, it leans 146 cm from the perpendicular, making it a must-see attraction.

A Quick Stop at Nicolaus Copernicus House

Continuing our walk, we passed by an old city wall and turned onto another street leading to the Nicolaus Copernicus House. This historic site is another must-visit spot in Toruń. However, since the tour takes about an hour and we planned to return for lunch with family, we only admired it from the outside. By this point, we were cold and hungry, so we stopped at a Polish convenience store, Żabka, for a quick snack.

The Old City Town Hall: A Gothic Masterpiece

Another highlight of our visit was the Old City Town Hall, a grand Gothic building located at the heart of the Old City Market Square. One of the largest and most magnificent town halls in Europe, its construction was authorized in the late 14th century by Teutonic Grand Master Conrad von Wallenrode during Toruń’s peak prosperity. The tower, which dates back to 1274, was raised to its current height of 40 meters in 1385. The intricate Gothic details make this building a true masterpiece.

Ending the Trip with Family Time

As the temperature dropped further, we decided to head back to the parking lot. I took a longer route to admire a few more historic buildings, soaking in the beauty of the city one last time.

We wrapped up our trip with a meal at a family member’s house. Having a big family can be both a blessing and a challenge—free home-cooked meals but fewer opportunities to eat out! This time, we also met some distant relatives whom I had never met before.

And with that, our Toruń trip came to an end. Thanks for following along on this journey! Be sure to check out my other travel posts for more insights into life and travel in Poland. Until next time!

Read More

From a Cold to Hearing Loss – A Scary Experience

This post is unlike my usual ones, and while I hope for a happy ending, right now, I’m still in the unknown.  

It all started 12 days ago when our son caught a cold. He had a fever and wasn’t his usual energetic self, so we kept him home and later took him to the doctor. At that time, both my husband and I were feeling fine. However, his condition didn’t improve by Sunday, so we went back for more medication, which turned out to be stronger and in greater amounts. He also had flu and other tests done which turned out negative. The doctor advised us to keep him indoors.  

By Monday morning, I had a fever and muscle pain, but I didn’t feel too unwell. My husband went to work, and I managed through the day with some medicine I had at home. It wasn’t until the evening that the fever really hit me, leaving me exhausted. I ended up lying down with our son, watching cartoons, and napping to recover some energy.  

On Tuesday (March 11th), I had an appointment to process my APRC, so we had to go to the city to get my no-criminal record and complete some other formalities. That evening, our son had a follow-up doctor’s appointment, so I also got checked, and my husband did too, since he started having a sore throat. We all received medicine and assumed things would soon improve.  

At first, my ears were still okay, but gradually, I started feeling some pressure. The weather had turned crazy - thunderstorms, heavy rain, and then a sudden drop in temperature. Maybe this hot-and-cold switch made everyone sick. All three of us had fevers that came and went away to return again, but otherwise, we were doing relatively fine.  

Although it wasn’t the flu or any of the more dangerous viruses going around recently, it definitely didn’t feel like a simple cold. It’s not normal for your temperature to jump between 38°C and 35°C, making you think you’re getting better only for it to hit even harder. My son and husband are still taking medication, and I really hope they’ll be fine soon.  

I thought I was recovering since most symptoms had disappeared except for a runny nose. My hearing felt off, but that wasn’t unusual for me during a cold - it usually improved within two or three days after. However, the persistent congestion made my head hurt. By Saturday, things got worse. It felt like I couldn’t hear anything from my right ear.  

The weather was still terrible, and since the clinic had no parking nearby, we decided to wait an extra day. On Sunday morning, when the rain finally stopped, we went to see the doctor. I was feeling even worse, and now there was this constant ringing in my ear that was beyond annoying. My husband and son got extra medication, but I was told to go to a bigger hospital in Hsinchu immediately. The doctor warned that if left untreated, this could lead to permanent hearing loss.  

Hearing that made me feel like I was about to faint. I had never considered this to be something serious - just an annoying cold symptom that would pass like always. Luckily, we have good friends who didn’t mind watching our son, so my husband rushed me to the hospital. Unfortunately, the doctor wasn’t available during weekends, and we were told to return on Monday morning.  

After more than three hours of waiting and tests on Monday (March 17th), I finally got some good news - my hearing wasn’t severely damaged, and it should return to normal with medication. I was prescribed a lot of medicine to take over the next seven days, and now, I just have to wait and hope for the best. I also hope the side effects won’t be too strong. I’ve had bad experiences with cough medicine before, where after taking it twice, I had to stop because it made me feel awful.  

The issue seems to be fluid trapped in my ear canal, which, if left untreated for too long, could have led to permanent damage.  

We live in Toufen, and unfortunately, the clinics and hospitals here have a really bad reputation. Everyone always advises going to Hsinchu instead. At the clinic, the doctor also told me to go straight there, specifically to Mackay Memorial Hospital, as they are the best for these types of issues.  

Having been to several clinics and hospitals, I must say that Mackay Memorial is by far the best. Everything was in English, and everyone - from the doctors to the volunteers (usually elderly people helping with registration or questions) - spoke English. 

Living in Miaoli, I almost never meet people who speak English. I always have to go to the doctor, immigration office, or anywhere official with my husband to help with communication. But at Mackay, for the first time, I felt like I could handle everything on my own.  

Even though English is my second language, I consider my level quite high. However, medical terminology isn’t something I use often, and my Chinese isn’t good enough - especially when it comes to medical conversations, where my knowledge is basically nonexistent.

 

To sum it up: take care of your health, even when it seems like just a small cold. Don’t assume symptoms will just disappear on their own. Sometimes, even a few days can make a difference between full recovery and lasting damage. I never thought a cold could threaten my hearing, but here I am, hoping for the best.

As of now, I’ve spent over a week without doing any video editing or managing my blog or anything else much. Despite being sick, I still took care of two sick people at home, cooked, cleaned, and went shopping as usual. Maybe the lack of rest and not taking care of myself made things worse, but that’s just me - I always think about my family before myself. It’s already difficult to get things done with a child at home, and now, not being able to hear properly means I can’t work on videos either. Oh, I really hope things go back to normal soon, as I'll be taking the meds. The bad point - I now got sour throat and started to caught...

On top of that, since our son missed a few days of school, I was shocked when he finally went back and brought home all the homework and classwork he had missed. There were about 40 pages to complete. He managed to do some during after-school classes but still sat down at home to finish everything. I didn’t think it was necessary to do it all in one day, but he wanted to complete it for the next day, so he kept working until nearly 9 PM. The amount of work kids have in Taiwanese schools is really overwhelming. He even said he thinks it would be better to go to school in Poland!

Read More

When Hsinchu Turns Pink: Taiwan’s Stunning Cherry Blossom Season

Travel Date: 2025/03/02

Because of my husband's work, we haven’t had time to go out on weekends. Even though it’s been nearly a month since we came back from Poland, this was our first time going out sightseeing. Finally, we decided to take a trip on March 1st, but when we arrived in the mountains of Miaoli, the cherry trees had already lost their blossoms.

A year without cherry blossoms feels like a year wasted, so the next day, we hopped on our scooter and rode up the mountains again—this time to Hsinchu. We passed by Beipu, and the road leading to the cherry farm was beautiful, with mountain views and even some cherry trees along the way.

I would recommend taking a scooter, as the mountain roads are quite narrow, and encountering oncoming cars can be challenging. There was a traffic jam well before the entrance to the farm because the road only allows one-way traffic for cars. If you don’t arrive early, you may struggle to find parking and end up waiting in the car for a long time.

The road is steep, so parking at a distance and climbing up would still be quite far. Once you arrive, you still have to climb several levels to reach the best viewpoints, so unless you’re in great shape, it can be quite tough.

If you're reading this soon after publication, the cherry blossoms were in full bloom just two days ago (March 2), so you still have a chance to see them before the season ends!

The entrance fee to Shan Shang Ren Jia is 200 NT per person and cannot be exchanged for anything. However, we later noticed that the ticket allows you to participate in a lottery. With the number of visitors, though, you’d have to be very lucky to win. And what’s the prize? A stay at their accommodation—only 20 winners in total.

Inside, we enjoyed plenty of beautifully pink cherry trees. The trees are planted on different levels and surrounded by tea bushes. There’s a restaurant and a few resting areas, though the prices seemed quite high—220 NT for tea felt a bit extreme to me.

The area is quite large, so you can easily spend two hours walking around. It’s located high in the mountains, and in one of the gift shop photos, we even saw a picture of the area covered in snow!

Shan Shang Ren Jia sits at an altitude of 1,200 meters and covers 5 hectares. It’s close to the Sanshan National Scenic Area and is surrounded by towering Yoshino cedars. Nearby, farmers grow peaches, plums, persimmons, and cold-resistant organic vegetables. Sometimes, you can even see a rolling sea of clouds in the distance, making the scenery truly breathtaking.

The weather was absolutely beautiful when we arrived, with plenty of sunshine. We got there quite early, around 11 AM, but by noon, the sun started hiding behind the clouds. After a long period of cool weather in Taiwan, it suddenly felt super hot—and when we checked the temperature, it was 28°C!

Most of the trees had bright pink flowers, but there was also a large white cherry tree and some dark pink ones. The darker cherry blossoms seemed to be the first to bloom and the first to finish their season. There were a lot of people, so taking photos with just the trees in the background was quite difficult.

We also saw several birds. Besides ducks and chickens, there were peacocks and parrots as well!

Since there are many stairs and slopes, walking around can be tiring for older visitors. Overall, it was an amazing place to visit. When we left around 1 PM, there were still many cars waiting to enter. I definitely recommend arriving before noon when the sunshine is at its best.

On the way back, we stopped in Beipu to find lunch—crystal dumplings, noodles, and luwei. Beipu was quite packed with people, but it was also filled with Hakka foods, many of which don’t look like the typical street food you’d find outside of Hakka towns. That being said, Hakka food is usually really tasty!

That’s all for this trip! I hope you enjoyed reading about our adventure. See you in the next post!

Address: 311-41新竹縣五峰鄉大隘村23鄰468-5號

Read More

Discovering Poland’s Historic Castles

My husband loves castles, so this time I found a few, and we went to visit them. On the way, we also passed by three wooden churches from around the 18th century, and we visited one of them inside. However, as time was limited due to the early sunset in the winter months in Poland, we didn't make as many stops and focused on the castle ruins. The weather was partially sunny, but by the time we arrived at the last castle, it had already gotten much cooler, so I didn’t want to walk around it too much.

Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary in Borysławice Kościelne

In a village in the Grzegorzew commune (Koło County), located approximately 13 km east of Koło, lies a church that was built in 1759, funded by Antoni Gorzeński, the cupbearer of Poznań and the owner of the village of Krzykosy, located within the parish. It has undergone numerous restorations.  

Constructed in a log cabin style and covered with wooden paneling, the church is oriented eastward. It is a single-nave structure with a narrower and noticeably lower presbytery (clearly visible from the outside) that ends in a three-sided apse. Two porches adjoin the nave, one on the southern side and one on the western side. The high roofs are covered with wooden shingles. A small turret for a bell is located above the nave. Inside, the ceiling features rounded corners and is adorned with polychrome paintings by Wincenty Strubiński, created in the interwar period, with motifs inspired by the Kujawy region.  

The church houses three Renaissance altars from the second half of the 18th century. The side altars include paintings on wooden panels depicting St. Isidore and St. Roch from the 17th century. A Rococo wall-mounted baptismal font is also present. In the presbytery, there are two fragments of a Renaissance triptych from 1640, including a relief scene of the Flight into Egypt and depictions of Aaron and St. John the Baptist. On the rood beam, a Baroque crucifix can be seen.  

Adjacent to the church is a wooden bell tower from the 18th century, featuring a four-pitched, shingled roof. 

Castle in Borysławice Zamkowe

The Castle in Borysławice Zamkowe is a 15th-century episcopal castle located in Borysławice Zamkowe, Greater Poland Voivodeship.  

The castle was built in the Gothic style on a small island surrounded by the waters of the Rgielewka River. Construction began around 1425 under the initiative of Archbishop Wojciech Jastrzębiec. Subsequent owners, the Russocki and Szczawiński families, did not significantly alter the castle’s appearance. It was destroyed in 1656 by Swedish forces during the Deluge and fell into ruin by the 18th century.  

Today, remnants of the gate tower, parts of the outer gateway walls, and fragments of the residential buildings’ walls remain. The ruins are privately owned and are not open to the public.  

The original castle consisted of two parallel, three-story residential buildings enclosed within defensive walls measuring 21 x 25 meters. A narrow, paved courtyard between the buildings was accessed through a gate on the southeastern side. A polygonal turret stood at one corner. This design exemplified a typical knightly residence from the first half of the 15th century.  

In the latter half of the 15th century, the castle was surrounded by an additional outer wall, creating a defensive outer courtyard (międzymurze) approximately 7 meters wide. The dimensions of the outer wall were 38 x 41 meters, and a new fortified gateway was added.  

By the early 16th century, a three-story, rectangular tower with decorative blind windows (blendy) was built on the walls, along with a fortified gateway strengthened with buttresses. In the northeastern section of the outer courtyard, a new building, likely a storage house (lamus), was constructed, extending slightly beyond the outer wall.  

In the early 17th century, the two residential buildings were joined by a narrow wing, reducing the courtyard’s size.  

It was listed as a historical monument in January 17, 1953.

Castle in Koło

The Castle in Koło, located near the town of Koło in Greater Poland, is a 14th-century Gothic stronghold built by King Casimir III the Great after 1365. It was strategically placed on an artificial hill within a meander of the Warta River, serving as a defensive outpost and administrative center along the important trade and travel routes of medieval Poland. 

Construction of the castle began during Casimir III’s reign as part of his broader efforts to fortify Poland. It was completed after his death, with the first recorded mention of the castle appearing in 1383. The castle was a residence for starosts (royal governors) and hosted Polish kings like Władysław Jagiełło and Kazimierz IV Jagiellończyk. In 1410, Władysław Jagiełło visited the castle on his way to the Battle of Grunwald.

In 15th Century, the castle became a center for political activity, hosting noble assemblies (sejmiki) for the surrounding region. It maintained its importance until starosts moved their residence to Kościelec in the late 16th century.

The castle began to decline in the late 1500s as its administrative significance waned.

By the time of the Swedish Deluge (1655–1660), the castle was described as "ruined." Afterward, its stones were repurposed for local construction projects, including the Bernardine monastery in Koło.

In 19th Century initial interest in the ruins sparked some of the earliest documentation efforts. In 20th century, archaeological excavations revealed fascinating finds, including a 14th-century gold ring adorned with a red gemstone, believed to have belonged to a wealthy noble or royal figure, numerous ceramic artifacts, including pottery and tiles, remains of the donjon foundations and parts of the courtyard’s layout. In 2019–2020, excavations unearthed more medieval artifacts and provided further insight into the castle’s construction techniques.

Significant conservation efforts have been undertaken to stabilize the ruins and prevent further degradation. Recent work includes the reconstruction of northern wall sections and ongoing plans for revitalization to enhance tourism. The castle is now a key historical attraction, hosting events like the Koło Bluesa Festival and drawing visitors interested in its rich history and scenic location by the Warta River.

The castle’s core was a rectangular layout (50 x 30 meters) built with Gothic brick techniques, including Flemish bond and Wendish bond. A donjon tower, measuring approximately 12 x 15 meters and 20 meters tall, was the oldest element. It likely served as a keep for defense and residence. The walls of the tower were exceptionally thick, up to 2.5 meters. The castle featured defensive walls fortified with crenellations and a gate tower, which could be accessed via a drawbridge. The inner courtyard housed auxiliary wooden structures, storage spaces, and two wells (a smaller one inside and a larger one outside the walls).

The castle was surrounded by a moat, with additional water defenses provided by the nearby Warta River. Its elevated position on an artificial hill added another layer of protection.

Only fragments of the defensive walls and parts of the eastern main tower remain intact today. The surviving portions reach up to 10 meters in height.

Church of St. Michael the Archangel in Umień

The Church of St. Michael the Archangel in Umień is a notable example of wooden sacred architecture typical of the eastern Greater Poland region. Here’s a detailed overview of its history and structure:

The village of Umień, located 12 km south of Koło, was first mentioned in King Casimir the Great's document from 1364. The parish was established in the 14th century, initially belonging to the Archdiocese of Gniezno until 1818, then to the Archdiocese of Warsaw, followed by the Diocese of Łódź (1920-1925), and since 1925, it has been part of the Diocese of Włocławek.

The church is listed as a heritage site and protected under Poland's register of monuments. It remains a protected landmark and accessible for outside viewing.

The first wooden church was likely founded in the 14th century by the local lords, the Unieński family, and was first mentioned in 1443.

In 1759, a public chapel was confirmed in Umień, preceding the current church's construction, which was completed by the second half of the 17th century. Throughout its history, the church has undergone various restorations, particularly after World War II when it was looted by the Germans. Restoration efforts have occurred in 1756, 1864, 1929, 1946, 1958, with additional works completed in 1992 and 1999.

The church is orientated, with a wooden frame construction, clad in timber and supported by braces. The building features a single nave, with a narrower, three-sided presbytery to the east and a sacristy attached to the north. On the north side, a square chapel with a tent roof has been added. On the south and west sides, two porches (kruchty) were constructed. A two-pitched roof, covered with metal sheets, rises above the nave, topped by a steeple with a bell.

The interior has a flat, vaulted ceiling and retains Rococo furnishings. Notable is the 18th-century polychrome depicting St. Michael the Archangel.

The wooden bell tower, built in the 18th century, has a four-sided metal roof. The upper section is covered with metal cladding, with slatted openings and a cross-topped lantern.

The churchyard is surrounded by a brick and stone wall with a metal gate, adding to the overall historic feel of the site.

Castle in Besiekiery

The Castle in Besiekiery is a late Gothic fortress located in the village of Besiekiery, in Łęczyca County, Łódź Voivodeship, Poland. The castle's ruins provide a glimpse into its historical significance and architectural development over the centuries.

The castle remains in a state of ruin, but the remains of its residential house and other architectural features can still be seen. The walls and corners of the residential building stand as a testament to its past grandeur.

Today, the castle is a tourist site, and while it has seen restoration work, much of its structure is still in ruins. The surrounding area is being developed with tourism facilities to make it more accessible to visitors.

The castle was likely built at the turn of the 15th to 16th century. The exact origin of its construction is unclear. Early theories suggested Mikołaj Sokołowski, the voivode of Łęczyca, was behind it, though this has been disputed. Instead, it is thought to have been commissioned by one of the Brzeski chamberlains, Mikołaj Sokołowski (1496–1502) or Wojciech Sokołowski (1502–1529).

By the late 16th century, the castle belonged to Andrzej Batory and later his daughter Zofia Batory and her husband Jerzy Rakoczy II.

In the mid-17th century, the castle was renovated by Jan Szymon Szczawiński, who added plaster to the walls, diminishing the fortification’s original Gothic appearance.

The structure suffered from a fire in 1731, which accelerated its decay. By the mid-19th century, it had been repurposed for agricultural uses.

In 2023, renovation work commenced, with the project concluding in December 2024, including conservation and landscaping, creating a new tourism infrastructure around the site.

The castle was built on a mound surrounded by an artificial moat. Constructed with brick on a stone foundation, the plan was an irregular rectangle, measuring approximately 38 × 40 meters.

The southern curtain featured a gatehouse measuring about 12 × 12 meters, which had three floors, each with four rooms. Around 1653, an octagonal tower was added to the gatehouse.

On the northern side, the main residential building was erected, measuring 13 meters in width. It consisted of three smaller rectangular rooms and a square hall on the eastern wall. These rooms were described in the 18th century as the Crimson Room, Marble Room, Hall, and Grand Chamber. Seven windows opened towards the inner courtyard.

Read More