We began our Day 4 at a relaxed pace, meeting at 11 AM to head to Yamaga, a picturesque town about one hour’s drive from Kumamoto City. Yamaga is known for its traditional onsen (hot springs) and its famed lantern festival (Toro Matsuri) held every summer during Obon.
Parking was a challenge. Festival rules meant town parking lots only allowed exits before 5:30 PM and effectively locking your car in until midnight. We opted instead for a free spot 1 km away, across the river, then braced ourselves for the heat - 38 °C.... so intense that I resorted to using an umbrella for shade, something I normally don’t do.
Yamaga, located about 30 km north of Kumamoto City in Kumamoto Prefecture, blends heritage and natural beauty. Nestled in a basin with the Kikuchi River flowing through, its northern landscapes feature the Kyushu Mountains. Known historically for its hot springs and as a post town on the Buzen Kaidō route, Yamaga remains rich in traditional crafts and long-standing cultural events.
Yamaga Lantern Folk Crafts Museum
Our first stop was the Yamaga Lantern Folk Crafts Museum, housed in a Taishō-era former bank building from the 1920s with preserved Romanesque architecture, now a registered Tangible Cultural Property.
The museum exhibits showcase the artisanship behind “toro” - lanterns built using only washi paper and minimal glue, without metal or wood. Larger, detailed lanterns can take months to craft.
Many lanterns are shaped to mimic real architecture - shrines, the Yachiyoza Theatre, and local landmarks.
The museum offers workshops where visitors can make smaller lantern parts (e.g., giboshu) with guidance from experts - a hands-on cultural experience.
We also learned about the myth involving Emperor Keiko, who was guided through fog by torch-bearing villagers - a story that sparked the lantern tradition centuries ago.
We encountered some confusion at the ticket counter—paperwork seemed to bundle museum entry with a performance we didn’t want to attend. Eventually we clarified that the performance occurs only during the two days of the festival, and that outside showtimes the museum can be visited separately after 6PM. Admission for both opened areas came to 730 yen per adult.
Wandering through Yamaga’s Old Streets
After the museum, we wandered through Yamaga’s atmospheric old town, stepping into a traditional-styled shrine with an unusual entrance bridge - Kongōjō-ji (金剛乗寺). Though modest, it's charming and sits amid historic surroundings, adding to Yamaga’s nostalgic feel.
Founded circa 825 by Kūkai (Kōbō Daishi), the founder of Shingon Buddhism in Japan, Kongōjō-ji is considered the oldest temple in Yamaga and was once known as the "Western Kōyasan" for its grand scale.
During the 15th century, when the local hot springs dried up, the temple’s head priest, Yumei Hōin, prayed fervently and built the Yakushi-dō Hall honoring Yakushi Nyorai - the Buddha of Healing. The hot springs eventually returned, and Yamaga’s annual Onsen Revival Festival commemorates this miracle.
The Stone Gate (Ishimmon) was crafted in 1804 by stonemason Jinki from tuff stone, this round-arched gate is a town-designated cultural asset. Its circular design signifies entering the body of Buddha - it’s even considered a power spot for good relationships.
Inside, you'll find statues of Yakushi Nyorai (the principal deity), Dainichi Nyorai, Yumei Hōin, Shōten, Fudō Myōō, and a restored Nyoirin Kannon Hall featuring beautiful Buddhist sculptures.
The later tradition of offering paper lanterns during the Yamaga Lantern Festival traces back to lanterns created in Yumei Hōin’s honor—by a paper craft master, after his passing.
The temple grounds are free to visit and open daily from approximately 8 AM to 6 PM, with a small free parking area (around 10 cars) available near the entrance.
Omiya Shrine
Lunch options were sparse - many shops were still closed as afternoon approached, so we continued exploring and eventually visited Ōmiya Shrine, a focal point during the festival, and scoped out the elementary school grounds where the famed Thousand Lantern Dance (Sennin Toro Odori) takes place. During the festival, these streets fill with lanterns and lively procession - women perform an elegant dance, balancing golden lanterns on their heads in slow circles.
The elementary school grounds nearby were already set up for the famous Thousand Lantern Dance — it looked amazing even before it started.
Omiya Shrine, surrounded by tall trees and a peaceful atmosphere, is one of the city’s most important shrines. Every August 15–16, it becomes the center of the Yamaga Lantern Festival (Yamaga Toro Matsuri), the town’s most iconic summer celebration tied to Obon, the Buddhist tradition of honoring ancestral spirits. The glowing lanterns are believed to guide the spirits, creating a truly magical and spiritual scene.
The highlight is the Thousand Lantern Dance (Senbon Toro Odori), where about 1,000 women in summer yukata dance gracefully with golden paper lanterns balanced on their heads. The festival’s roots date back centuries, when locals guided Emperor Keiko through dense fog using torches—an act that later evolved into the luminous tradition of offering paper lanterns.
The festivities also include a spectacular fireworks show, with over 4,000 fireworks illuminating the night sky above the Kikuchi River. Celebrated with deep community pride, ancestral homage, and artistry, the festival is often described by locals as “a moment that brings goosebumps.
Discovering Yachiyoza Theater
Next, we visited Yachiyoza Theater, a historical playhouse built in 1910, known for its Western-influenced design and notable as a National Important Cultural Property.
The theatre once faded in popularity in the 1970s but was revived and restored by locals - gaining its cultural asset designation in 1988. After falling into decline, it was restored in the early 2000s.
Features include under-stage trap doors, rotating stage platforms, and a hanamichi (pathway for dramatic entrances), showing advanced stage tech for its time.
Another era building nearby, Yumekogura, serves as a museum containing costumes, posters, and props.
During festival seasons, the theatre hosts special performances - including kabuki and dances, sometimes featuring the lantern dance and taiko drums. Outside festival times, you can tour backstage and understage areas with guidance and English handouts.
A combined ticket for Yachiyoza, Yumekogura, and the lantern museum costs around 730 yen.
Additionally, the theatre plays a central role in seasonal events like the Yamaga Romantic Lantern Festival during winter (Feb–Mar), where it displays lantern art and hosts stage performances.
Waiting for the Lantern Dance—Then the Rain
As evening approached, the festival area came alive. Streets turned bustling with food stalls and impromptu dancing near Sakura-yu, Yamaga’s local onsen building, a fun scene to stumble into. Finally, we took our seats at the school venue - though at the back, it offered good views.
The children with their lanterns danced beautifully as 8PM neared. But just minutes before the main event, a sudden downpour hit! People waited patiently, some left in rush as they didn't have any cover, but after 15 minutes, the Thousand Lantern Dance was canceled. We had traveled so far and waited so long - it was heartbreaking to miss it... Wet and sandy, we made our way back to the car.
The drive back was slow - traffic was much worse than on the drive out. By 10 PM we were back in Kumamoto City.
Night had transformed Kumamoto into a different world. Streets were silent yet tinged with odd energy - many women dressed provocatively wandered around, clearly seeking business. It wasn't dangerous, but it felt unfamiliar, especially with our child. Still, compared to Europe, it felt safer - just odd.
