October 3, 2024

Typhoon Krathon in Taiwan


As typhoon season rolls in, Taiwan braces itself for the unpredictable force of nature that shapes its landscape and daily life every year. One of the recent storms to hit the island was Typhoon Krathon, a significant weather event that stirred concerns across the country. In this blog post, I’ll take a closer look at Krathon’s path, its impact on Taiwan, and how it affected our local area of Toufen, Miaoli.

Living in Taiwan we learn to coexist with the reality of typhoons. While they can be disruptive, Taiwanese society is well-prepared for these storms, and the government’s swift action helps minimize the potential damage. 
For us in Toufen, it was a relief to have dodged the worst of Krathon’s fury, but it’s always a sobering experience knowing that others around the island were less fortunate. 
In 2024, Taiwan has experienced several typhoons, including notable ones like Typhoon Gaemi and Typhoon Krathon. As of October, there have been around 2 to 4 typhoons impacting or coming close to Taiwan, which is slightly below the average for a typical year. 

Typhoon Krathon began as a tropical depression in the Pacific, gradually gaining strength as it approached Taiwan. Its path followed the typical route of many typhoons in this region, heading westward from the Philippines towards the South China Sea. As it neared Taiwan, Krathon was classified as a medium-strength typhoon, with sustained winds reaching around 120 km/h (75 mph). The storm first touched down in southern Taiwan, then swept across the island, bringing strong winds and torrential rain.

Typhoon Krathon was initially expected to make landfall in Taiwan earlier, but it hovered off the coast before ultimately arriving on Thursday, October 3, 2024. The storm finally made landfall around 12:40 PM local time in Kaohsiung, a port city on Taiwan’s southwest coast. It was originally forecasted to approach Taiwan’s coastline as early as Wednesday, but its path and timing shifted slightly before it came ashore on Thursday. As a result of the typhoon, Taiwan was shut down for two days, with schools, offices, and financial markets closed. Around 240 international flights were canceled, and domestic flights were suspended.

Typhoon Krathon has had a significant impact on Taiwan, resulting in 2 confirmed deaths, 123 injuries, and 2 people still missing as of Wednesday morning (October 3rd). The typhoon caused widespread infrastructure damage, particularly in the southern regions, with over 1,000 incidents of tree collapses and road damage. There have also been reports of landslides in Keelung, Pingtung, and Taitung. Around 10,000 people have been evacuated as a precaution, and multiple flights and ferry services have been canceled across Taiwan.

Following Typhoon Krathon, Taiwan announced school and work suspensions in several affected regions, particularly in areas hit hardest by the storm. Southern counties like Taitung, Pingtung, and Kaohsiung, which experienced severe flooding and landslides, had mandatory closures for public safety. 

Living in Toufen, Miaoli, we were fortunate to be just outside the worst of Krathon’s path, but we still experienced the effects of the typhoon. As the storm passed, the skies darkened, and the winds picked up. 
Here in Toufen, the local government prepared in advance by reinforcing flood prevention systems, cleaning drainage ditches, and warning residents to stay indoors. Schools were closed for a 2 days, and the markets were noticeably emptier as people stocked up on supplies in anticipation of the storm. We were lucky that the power remained on for most of the area, although a few rural sections experienced brief outages. It was much better than in the south, where schools and workplaces closed on Tuesday, giving them an additional three-day holiday this year.

September 24, 2024

Why Taiwan is a Must-Visit Destination - But Beware of These Downsides


When people think of Taiwan, they often picture stunning landscapes, delicious food, and vibrant culture. And for good reason! Taiwan is a beautiful island that offers a perfect mix of modern cities and natural wonders. From the bustling night markets of Taipei to the breathtaking Taroko Gorge, there’s no shortage of reasons why travelers rave about this place. The food is legendary, with its street eats, bubble tea, and Michelin-starred restaurants, while the people are warm and welcoming. On top of that, Taiwan is a tech and transportation hub, making it incredibly easy to explore.

But while all these superlatives are well-known, today I want to introduce some of the less glamorous aspects of traveling to Taiwan. Every destination has its downsides, and Taiwan is no exception. From pedestrian safety concerns to the humid weather, there are a few things you should be prepared for before booking your flight.

1. Pedestrian Safety

One of the major downsides of visiting Taiwan is pedestrian safety - or rather, the lack of it. While the public transportation system is excellent, once you're on foot, things can get tricky. In many parts of the country, pedestrian crossings are ignored by drivers, and scooters seem to come from all directions. Even when crossing at designated crosswalks, pedestrians often have to be vigilant and assertive, as vehicles may not stop.

The issue is particularly noticeable in busy urban areas, where cars and scooters often speed through intersections or make quick turns, barely slowing down for those on foot. Even the sidewalks, especially in smaller towns, aren’t always pedestrian-friendly, often being cluttered with parked scooters or uneven surfaces. In some areas, sidewalks disappear altogether, leaving you to share narrow roads with vehicles.
For anyone who loves walking and exploring a city on foot, this can be frustrating and even dangerous. Visitors need to stay alert and exercise caution, especially at intersections and when walking near heavy traffic.

If you follow the news in Taiwan, you may already know there are quite a lot of incidents involving pedestrians, often with elderly drivers claiming they didn’t see the person crossing the road. Well, maybe if they slowed down, they would... This happens very often! I
n my 7+ years living here, I’ve encountered many accidents and have been nearly hit several times, usually by scooters running red lights! 
Just this morning, after dropping my son off at school, I wanted to cross the road back. We had a pedestrian-only green light, and while cars stopped, as I was 3/4 of the way across and nearly at the other side, a grandma driving a scooter almost hit me. She then turned right onto another road full of kids heading to school. There are always elderly women volunteering to watch out for kids' safety, but no one said a word or reacted when things like this happen. At least a few times a week, the pedestrian crossing is blocked by people deciding to park there because it’s too much trouble to drive 100 meters more and stop in a parking area or drop their child in a better spot where they wouldn’t block others from crossing safely.

2. Hot and Humid Climate

Taiwan’s subtropical climate can be overwhelming for those not used to it. Summers (especially from June to September) are hot and extremely humid, with temperatures often reaching above 30°C (86°F). The humidity makes the heat feel even more intense, leading to sweaty clothes and a constant need for air conditioning.

Moreover, Taiwan is prone to typhoons, particularly in the late summer and early fall. These storms can disrupt travel plans, with heavy rains and strong winds sometimes causing delays or cancellations of flights, trains, and ferries. If you’re visiting during typhoon season, be prepared for sudden changes in weather and the possibility of being stuck indoors for extended periods.

As much as I’ve gotten used to the hot weather, I’m scared of winters here. Maybe if you watch the weather forecast and see 20 degrees, you think it’s fine, but the reality is different. The weather is super humid, and when it’s 20 degrees in winter, we’re wearing winter clothes. Not to mention, when it dropped to 3 degrees Celsius last winter, it was freezing. Our hands were red from the cold. It doesn’t get any better indoors because houses don’t have radiators, so it’s cold everywhere. Even when living in Tainan, one of the warmest places, there were still some colder days when the temperature inside dropped to 15 degrees Celsius. We have heaters in the rooms and bathroom, so we can manage, but going outside is a nightmare. Schools are also cold, and kids have to sit wearing winter jackets. How can you focus on studying when it’s that cold?

3. Air Quality Issues

Although Taiwan’s air quality has improved in recent years, pollution can still be a problem, especially in industrial areas or during certain times of the year. Air pollution, primarily from factories, vehicles, and neighboring countries, can affect visibility and make outdoor activities less enjoyable. On days when the air quality is poor, sensitive individuals may experience discomfort, especially if they have respiratory issues.
If you plan on spending a lot of time outdoors, it’s a good idea to check air quality apps and wear a mask on days when pollution levels are high.

We live near an industrial area, so we see the effects very clearly. Often, the sky is grey, and the smell is terrible. This usually happens on rainy or cloudy days when it’s hard to tell if the air quality is bad just by looking, but once you step outside, the chemical odor is overwhelming. Another issue is that many factories release polluted water into the rivers, turning them rotten-looking and contaminated.

4. Crowded Public Spaces

While Taiwan is known for its efficient public transportation, it’s also known for its crowds. In major cities like Taipei, Kaohsiung, or Taichung, rush hour can be a hectic experience. The MRT system is clean and reliable, but during peak hours, it’s packed to the brim. If you’re not a fan of crowded spaces, navigating busy night markets or popular tourist spots can feel claustrophobic.

Even outside the city, Taiwan’s small size and high population density mean that popular hiking trails or scenic spots can get crowded, particularly on weekends and holidays. If you're seeking solitude, it might be difficult to find in Taiwan’s most famous locations.

30 minutes looking for parking, we couldn’t find any nearby. And by 'nearby,' I mean within 1 km of the place we wanted to go. Often, cars block lanes as they wait for parking spots to open up. Some areas are also extremely expensive to park in. For example, in Keelung, which we got to know this year, many parking lots have no time limit and charge 30 NT or more per hour. Traveling to less touristy places is usually fine, and some spots may even have free parking. Another option could be riding a scooter or taking the bus or train, though I’m not too familiar with public transportation.

5. Strict Waste Disposal Rules

Taiwan has strict waste disposal regulations, and you’ll quickly notice that public trash cans are few and far between. While this is part of Taiwan’s efforts to reduce litter and improve recycling, it can be inconvenient for tourists who might not know where to properly dispose of their trash.

You often have to carry your waste with you until you return to your hotel or find a rare public trash bin. Recycling rules are also stringent, and incorrect disposal can result in fines. For long-term visitors or those staying in Airbnbs, understanding the local garbage disposal schedule is essential, as garbage trucks come at specific times with musical tunes announcing their arrival.

And to add to that, Taiwan isn’t as clean as you might think. Maybe not in Taipei, but once you go to smaller towns, you may see garbage on the streets or along the fields. The place I live has a 7-11 downstairs, and quite often I’ll see garbage on the sidewalk, cigarette butts, and other litter. A huge problem with garbage also exists in the mountains, where many residents dump it in the forests, and it is then carried around by the wind, rivers, and other elements.

6. Earthquakes

Taiwan experiences a significant number of earthquakes each year due to its location along the Pacific Ring of Fire. On average, the island records around 15,000 earthquakes annually. Of these, the vast majority are minor and go unnoticed, but about 1,000 are strong enough to be felt by residents. Additionally, a few earthquakes each year may be powerful enough to cause damage or be considered significant, typically registering over 5.0 on the Richter scale.
Taiwan's seismic activity is the result of the interaction between the Philippine Sea Plate and the Eurasian Plate, which converge near the island.

In rare cases, stronger earthquakes may cause transportation disruptions or damage to infrastructure. It’s always a good idea to familiarize yourself with earthquake safety procedures, especially if you're staying in a high-rise building.

The most recent major earthquake was the 2024 Hualien earthquake, which had a magnitude of 7.4 and claimed 18 lives. The most recent major earthquake with a high death toll was the 921 earthquake, which struck on September 21, 1999, and claimed 2,415 lives.

7. Language Barrier

While English is widely taught in schools and signage in major cities is often bilingual, once you venture outside tourist areas, you may find the language barrier challenging. In smaller towns, fewer people speak English, and menus or transportation signs may only be in Mandarin or Taiwanese. This can make navigation and communication a bit harder for those who don’t speak the local languages.
While many locals are friendly and will try to help, having a translation app or some basic Mandarin phrases can go a long way in making your trip smoother.

Personally, I hardly find English-speaking people, or maybe they are shy; I'm not sure. Judging by my husband’s friends and coworkers, English speakers are relatively difficult to find here. My Chinese isn't great, but I somehow get by. However, for many things, such as doctor visits or even ARC-related matters, I need to rely on my husband as a translator.

8. High Costs in Tourist Areas

While Taiwan is generally more affordable compared to some Western countries, prices in tourist-heavy areas can quickly add up. Accommodation in popular areas like Taipei or Kenting can be pricey, and tourist activities often come with steep fees. If you’re visiting during a holiday season or major festival, prices may spike even more, so be prepared for higher-than-expected costs in these regions.

Sadly, many of the places are not even worth the price. Sometimes, when staying in hotels that weren’t the cheapest, we found dirty bedsheets, broken towels, and dust everywhere. If you find cheap options, don’t expect anything good from them; the air conditioning might even be too old to work properly! With the high prices, many people joke that they can only afford to travel to Japan and not locally. Honestly, after seeing the prices and high quality of accommodations in Japan and Korea, I’m not surprised - you can get twice as good a place for half the price.

Conclusion: Is Taiwan Still Worth It?

Despite these challenges, Taiwan is still an incredible destination, offering a unique blend of natural beauty, modern amenities, and rich culture. While it’s important to be aware of potential downsides like pedestrian safety issues, a hot and humid climate, and occasional air quality concerns, these are far outweighed by Taiwan’s many highlights.
With a bit of preparation and an open mind, you can navigate the island’s challenges and enjoy everything Taiwan has to offer - from its jaw-dropping landscapes to its unforgettable food scene.

September 21, 2024

How Much Does Public Elementary School Cost in Taiwan?


As a parent, you might assume that public elementary schools in Taiwan are entirely free, that's true, but of course there are various additional costs involved. Recently, we received the payment breakdown for my son's school, and I wanted to share our experience with others who might be curious about the actual expenses.

The first payment we received was quite modest - only 310 NT. This covered six items, including books and exam papers. However, despite this payment, my son has a lot more books at school, so I’m not sure why we only had to pay for those specific ones. It could be that certain materials are subsidized by the school or the government.
The first payment we received came in during the first week of school. Since it was such a manageable sum, we simply gave the money to our son to deliver directly to his teacher. The payment details were listed on a piece of paper glued into his parent-teacher communication book (I’m not entirely sure what to call it, but it’s essentially a notebook where teachers and parents exchange information). The next day, he took the money to school, and his teacher wrote a note acknowledging receipt of the payment. It was a simple and straightforward process.

Extracurricular Activities

In addition to the basic school fees, we also had the opportunity to enroll our son in an extracurricular club. After considering all the options, we chose the table tennis club for him, which was the most affordable at 2,000 NT for the semester. It's probably the only activity suitable for a six-year-old, and while I don't think he would have much fun playing with clay for an entire semester, I know he's not interested in playing the violin either - and that option was much more expensive.
He does like soccer, and it would have been a great choice, but unfortunately, the school is undergoing renovations, and the lack of space means there’s no real opportunity for them to play. In fact, this year, they won’t even be able to organize the usual sports day because of the space constraints.

As for table tennis, he hasn’t started playing yet since the club activities are scheduled to begin after the Mid-Autumn Festival. His lessons will take place on Tuesdays, with the first one planned for September 24. It’s nice to see him excited about trying something new, and I’m hopeful that it will become a fun and rewarding part of his school week.
Choosing the right extracurricular activity can be tricky, especially when options are limited by age, space, and cost, but so far, we feel good about our decision!

General School Fees

Starting in the third week of school, we finally received the details for the school fees, which gave us a clear picture of the total costs for the semester. What I appreciate is that the school gives parents plenty of time to make the payment - the due date is set for the end of October. This longer timeframe is really helpful because it means you don’t have to rush or worry about immediate payment, giving families some breathing room to organize their finances.

Although public school itself is technically free, there are still various mandatory fees. Here’s a breakdown of what we had to pay for this semester:

- Insurance: 200 NT
- Parents’ Committee: 100 NT
- Textbooks: 485 NT
- Study Fee: 343 NT
- Local Language Book (Taiwanese): 115 NT
- Other Fees: 1,701 NT
- After-School Care: 7,680 NT
- Lunch Fee: 4,815 NT

In total, these fees came to 15,439 NT. When added to the previous payments (the books and exam papers plus the table tennis club), the total cost so far is 17,749 NT for the semester.

Additional Costs: Supplies and Uniforms

Of course, this total doesn’t include school supplies or uniforms. We spent around 1,200 NT on uniforms alone. The school advised that the uniform can last for two years, but I’m skeptical about that. The white and blue color combination is prone to getting dirty very quickly, and even washing machines can’t keep the white parts clean. Unless we’re okay with the uniforms looking very worn out, I doubt they’ll survive a full two years of use.

Final Thoughts

Overall, the monthly cost for my son’s public elementary school is less than 3,000 NT. While it's a bit more expensive than his previous kindergarten fees, it’s still very affordable compared to many other options. I’ve heard of much higher costs, especially at private schools, where tuition and additional fees can be significantly more.

After-school care, which is a necessity for many working parents, is also reasonably priced for us, though I know that in some places it can cost several thousand NT per month. Despite the higher prices, these programs are still quite popular. I always see plenty of kids heading to cram schools after regular school hours. It seems like a common practice here, especially with how competitive the education system can be.

Of course, kids going to cram schools are getting extra learning opportunities, but from what I’ve seen, the after-school care my son attends mainly focuses on finishing homework. There isn’t any extra studying involved, which actually leaves the kids with more free time. Personally, I don’t think a 6-year-old needs to spend 12 hours a day studying. I always feel bad for the kids who are stuck in this kind of routine. One of my son’s friends from kindergarten goes to a cram school and doesn’t finish until 6 PM. What’s surprising is that the parents don’t seem especially busy - I see them around at different times during the day - yet they still send their child to study, instead of letting them enjoy a bit of free time.

I just can’t bring myself to do that. My son loves to play, and honestly, he won’t sit down and study at home on his own. Once he finishes his homework at after-school care, which wraps up around 5 PM, he’s free for the rest of the day. When he was in kindergarten, he came home around 4 PM, so the difference in timing isn’t that big. We usually head to the park for an hour, and then there’s still plenty of time for him to eat dinner and either play at home or watch cartoons. It feels like a healthier balance to me - he’s learning and doing his homework but also getting to enjoy his childhood.

I’ve actually written a blog post comparing the differences between schools in Taiwan and Poland, where I go into more detail about this. You’re welcome to check it out and share your thoughts!

Have you experienced similar costs at your child’s school? Feel free to share your thoughts or ask questions in the comments below!

September 19, 2024

A Visit to Taoyuan Martyrs' Shrine Amidst a Thunderstorm


Travel date: 2024/08/14

After our adventure in Japan, we made our way back to Taiwan. By noon, we were free to leave, but the weather in Taiwan was less than inviting—cloudy skies and a forecast full of rain. Faced with a choice between a scenic coastal drive or a visit to Shifen Waterfall and Pingxi, we opted for a more practical route home, with a stop at Taoyuan Martyrs' Shrine, which had been on my list for some time.

Unfortunately, as soon as we reached the shrine and climbed the stairs, the weather took a turn for the worse. A thunderstorm rolled in, bringing with it heavy rain. We waited indoors, capturing some videos, but the weather wasn’t ideal for a full visit.

Taoyuan Martyrs' Shrine (桃園忠烈祠)

Taoyuan Martyrs' Shrine, nestled on Hutou Mountain, was completed in 1938 and originally known as Taoyuan Shinto Shrine during the Japanese colonial era. It stands as the best-preserved Japanese-era Shinto shrine in Taiwan. The architecture blends ancient Chinese Tang dynasty elements with Japanese and contemporary Taiwanese styles. Constructed from high-quality cypress wood, it was officially designated a level three national monument in 1994. The shrine also served as a filming location for the movie "Kano," which captures the essence of the 1930s.

During the Japanese colonial era, over 200 Shinto shrines were built across Taiwan as part of the Japanization movement. After the end of World War II and the cessation of Taiwan-Japan diplomatic relations, many shrines faced demolition. However, Taoyuan Shinto Shrine, renamed Taoyuan Martyrs' Shrine in 1950, was preserved for its cultural, historical, and artistic value. It remains the only Shinto shrine in Taiwan and outside of Japan that has been perfectly preserved.

The shrine features a variety of buildings: the main hall, where spirit tablets are placed; the worship hall, for visitors to pay their respects; the administration office; and the water room for purification rituals. Additional features include the Torii Gate, Buddhist lantern, Komainu (guardian lions), brass horse sculpture, and the Sandao (path). The intricate craftsmanship is evident in the cypress and fir materials, with beams joined through meticulous grafting joints, highlighting the detailed labor involved.

The shrine’s grounds offer a tranquil atmosphere surrounded by old pine and evergreen trees. The Sandao leads from Chenggong Road to the inner gate and worship hall, extending all the way to Taoyuan Train Station. The surrounding greenery provides a serene backdrop, with cherry blossoms in early spring and vibrant red maple leaves in autumn. Each season transforms the shrine’s landscape, offering new scenic views.
















September 12, 2024

Ishigaki Island And Getting Back Home


Travel Date: 2024/08/11 - 2024/08/14

Instead of the usual flight or ferry, we decided to embark on a less conventional adventure - cruising to Japan. Our journey took us to the vibrant streets of Naha City in Okinawa and the serene beauty of Ishigaki Island. Over the course of three nights and four days, we experienced the unique blend of relaxation and exploration that cruising offers. But as we soon discovered, this mode of travel comes with its own set of surprises.

Join me on a whirlwind 4-day, 3-night cruise to Japan’s serene Okinawa Prefecture, where the reality of just a few hours on land brought both memorable experiences and unique challenges. From the historic Shuri Castle in Okinawa to the tranquil yet limited offerings of Ishigaki Island, I navigated quiet streets, savored fresh sushi, and tackled the quirks of limited time ashore. These posts recount the highlights of our brief land excursions, the nostalgic charm of older taxis, the unexpected challenges of finding food, and the joys of traveling with family. Despite the short visits, each day unfolded with new discoveries that made the journey truly unforgettable.

Kicking Off the Day

After breakfast, our son was eager to play in the swimming pool. Despite his fear of water, he stayed in one spot, clinging to the ground, and his clothes amusingly changed color from blue to a pinkish hue. Traveling with a child truly requires patience!
Time wasn’t as tight on Ishigaki Island compared to the previous day. We disembarked before 2 PM and needed to be back on board by 8 PM. After a day of exploring, dining, and resting, we sailed back to Taiwan. We arrived at 8 AM, but disembarkation wasn’t until after 10 AM, extending the waiting time before finally leaving the cruise. In the flurry of disembarking, I unfortunately forgot to record a video as I had planned—a small regret on an otherwise peaceful and reflective day.

One of the most impressive aspects of Ishigaki Island—and Okinawa overall—was its cleanliness. The streets were spotless, with almost no garbage in sight, despite a lack of trash cans. Vending machines were conveniently available on nearly every street, making it easy to grab a drink. Unlike in Taiwan, drink shops aren’t a common sight in Japan.
We also made a quick stop at a local supermarket. It didn’t have as many options as the one on the previous island, but we still managed to find some drinks.



Ishigaki Island (石垣島)

Ishigaki Island is a serene and culturally rich island in Japan's Okinawa Prefecture, located southwest of Okinawa Hontō. It's part of the Yaeyama Islands and serves as a key transport and business hub in the region. The island is known for its lush landscapes, including Mount Omoto and Kabira Bay, both protected under the Iriomote-Ishigaki National Park.

With a population of around 47,000, Ishigaki blends Japanese and Taiwanese influences, evident in its unique cuisine, which features tropical fruits, spices, and the famous Ishigaki beef. The island is also historically significant, with sites like Miyaradunchi, an Important Cultural Property, reflecting its rich heritage.

Ishigaki is a popular destination for cruise ships, offering access to nearby islands and the Senkaku Islands, a point of territorial contention. The island’s natural beauty, cultural significance, and strategic importance make it a unique spot in Japan's southern archipelago.



Transportation

Getting around the island was straightforward but limited. We took a bus from the cruise terminal to the town center, which cost 200 yen per person, with children riding for free. The last bus back to the cruise ship departs at 7 PM, so timing your return is crucial. The roads felt very safe, drivers were polite, always waiting for pedestrians to cross, and they drove slowly. The absence of scooters made crossing the road feel unpressured and safe, unlike in Taiwan.

From the bus stop, it’s about a 10-minute walk to the popular shopping area. However, food options were sparse, and the shopping mall was small with limited offerings. Perhaps it’s because we’re used to seeing food and drink stalls everywhere in Taiwan, but it felt quite empty here. The first floor focused on food, while the second floor was dedicated to souvenirs.

Food & Shopping

Euglena Mall, formerly known as Ayapani Mall, is the southernmost arcade shopping street in Japan. It features two parallel streets covered with arcades and lined with souvenir shops and local stores. The Ishigaki City Public Market, situated between these streets, offers fresh produce and local specialties. The mall was renamed in 2010 after the naming rights were sold to Euglena, a company with a microalgae facility on the island, to help repay construction loans and fund maintenance.

One of the challenges we faced on Ishigaki Island was finding food. Many shops were closed, and the shopping options were limited. The popular tourist area didn’t have any large shops, and the shopping mall was small with few things available. Sushi train restaurants, which I had hoped to visit, were uncommon, and when we did find food, it was somewhat pricey.

Despite the challenges, we managed to order food with the help of a very friendly restaurant owner. Even though it took a long time due to language barriers and poor internet connectivity, the hospitality made up for the difficulty.

Communicating in English on Ishigaki Island proved to be difficult. The poor internet connection made it even harder, especially when trying to use translation apps. This added a layer of challenge to the overall experience, but with patience, we were able to get by.




Shrines

Our original plan was to visit a stalactite cave, but my husband thought it might be too crowded, so we decided to explore the town and visit its shrines instead.

In the 1500s, when Yaeyama farmers resisted the Shuri Royal Government, troops were dispatched to quell the rebellion. As the government’s ships returned to Naha Port, a shrine maiden prayed here for their safe voyage. At the sacred site, you’ll find a torii gate and a worship hall. Behind the stone gate lies a restricted sacred area, off-limits to visitors. The premises are adorned with towering ancient trees, each with a unique shape distinct from those found in Taiwan. There was also an animal in the bushes that startled me when it jumped as I approached, though I didn’t catch what it was.










Our next stop was Gongen-do and Tōrin-ji, which were established simultaneously in 1614 to encourage the construction of temples and shrines. The deities enshrined here are based on the Kumano Gongen, marking the beginning of temple and shrine construction in Yaeyama and representing a valuable cultural heritage.

Tōrin-ji (桃林寺) is a historic Zen Buddhist temple located in Ishigaki City, Okinawa Prefecture. Belonging to the Myōshinji branch of the Rinzai school, the temple is also known by its mountain name, Nankai-san. The principal deity enshrined here is Kannon Bosatsu (Avalokitesvara), and it holds the distinction of being the oldest Buddhist temple in the Yaeyama Islands.

Tōrin-ji was founded in 1614 during the reign of King Shō Nei of the Ryukyu Kingdom, following the advice of the Satsuma Domain to construct religious sites in the Yaeyama region. The temple was established by the Zen monk Kan'ō Saidō, who brought with him a bronze statue of Kannon and three sacred mirrors as offerings. The adjacent Gongen-dō, a shrine dedicated to Kumano Gongen, was also founded at this time.

The temple's main hall initially had a thatched roof, but it was replaced with tiles in 1694, and the Gongen-dō followed suit in 1703. Both structures were severely damaged by a tsunami in 1771 but were subsequently rebuilt in 1772 and 1786, respectively. Notably, the temple was involved in a historical dispute in 1782 when a Shingon temple from Kagoshima attempted to convert Tōrin-ji to Shingon Buddhism, but the Ryukyu government rejected this, affirming its Zen Buddhist identity.

The current main hall was reconstructed in 1968, following various repairs and rebuilds over the centuries due to natural disasters and other events.
Gongen-dō, dedicated to Kumano Gongen, has undergone several restorations, with the most recent significant repair completed in 2008 after damage from Typhoon 13 in 2006. The shrine's copper mirrors, cast in 1772, are the oldest of their kind in Okinawa.
The temple's gate is guarded by two wooden Nio statues carved in 1737, which are the oldest wooden sculptures in Okinawa. These statues were washed away by the 1771 tsunami but were later recovered and restored.







Final Day on the Cruise

Our last morning on the cruise came with a few unexpected changes. We woke up at 7 AM, knowing that the ship would dock at 8 AM. Before we left our room, we received a phone call letting us know that our passports were ready for pickup—a reassuring step as our journey neared its end.

After picking up our passports, we headed for breakfast. The buffet closed earlier than usual, around 9 AM, with cleaning taking place immediately afterward, cutting our breakfast time short. As we waited for our scheduled disembarkation time of 10:40 AM, we also noticed that the toilets were being cleaned and were unavailable for use until we left the ship, which was a bit inconvenient.

Despite heading down a bit earlier, passing through customs and retrieving our luggage took longer than anticipated. By the time we finally walked to the car park and were ready to head back home, it was nearing noon. The entire process, from waking up to driving away, highlighted the patience needed on the final day of a cruise, especially when small inconveniences arise.



September 3, 2024

Okinawa: Exploring History, Shopping, and Quick Tips (Part II)


Travel Date: 2024/08/11 - 2024/08/14

Instead of the usual flight or ferry, we decided to embark on a less conventional adventure - cruising to Japan. Our journey took us to the vibrant streets of Naha City in Okinawa and the serene beauty of Ishigaki Island. Over the course of three nights and four days, we experienced the unique blend of relaxation and exploration that cruising offers. But as we soon discovered, this mode of travel comes with its own set of surprises.

Join me on a whirlwind 4-day, 3-night cruise to Japan’s serene Okinawa Prefecture, where the reality of just a few hours on land brought both memorable experiences and unique challenges. From the historic Shuri Castle in Okinawa to the tranquil yet limited offerings of Ishigaki Island, I navigated quiet streets, savored fresh sushi, and tackled the quirks of limited time ashore. These posts recount the highlights of our brief land excursions, the nostalgic charm of older taxis, the unexpected challenges of finding food, and the joys of traveling with family. Despite the short visits, each day unfolded with new discoveries that made the journey truly unforgettable.

Okinawa (沖縄本島)

Exploring the streets of Okinawa was a surprisingly peaceful experience. The quiet roads, with very few scooters, made crossing the streets a breeze. It was a nice change from Taiwan, where I often feel like I'm taking a risk just crossing the road—sorry, Taiwan, but that’s the truth! We even had a chance to pet a friendly Japanese cat.

We had hoped to visit a fish market, but it was closing at 5 PM. If we had gone straight there from the cruise, we wouldn’t have had time to see anything else. I'm sure the fish would have been an amazing treat, but we decided to explore other places instead.


Shopping at MaxValu: A Taste of Okinawa

After our visit to Shuri Castle, we headed to MaxValu, a popular supermarket chain in Okinawa. It reminded me a lot of PX Mart in Taiwan, but with its own unique offerings. The highlight of our shopping trip was the sushi—fresh, sweet, and far superior to what I've had at Costco or RT Mart in Taiwan. The quiet streets and relaxed atmosphere made the shopping experience even more enjoyable.

There was a wide range of products, including many sweets, but I was on the lookout for unique flavors. Aside from a variety of strawberry options, I didn’t find anything particularly different. We regretted not buying more, especially since Ishigaki Island offered fewer shopping opportunities. So, if you’re in Okinawa, I suggest stocking up on sweets unless you’re specifically after typical gift packages.
Japan definitely offers a much wider variety of dairy products compared to Taiwan. The selection of yogurt and cheese was more abundant than what I'm used to seeing.

One special dessert caught my eye. According to the description, it’s often used as an offering on altars. It's made from rice, soybeans, and sugar, shaped into a lotus flower, and comes in a variety of colors. We also noticed some local cookies made from purple sweet potatoes, but we didn’t try them, so I can’t say if they’re worth the price.

One thing that stood out was how affordable juice is in Okinawa compared to Taiwan. If you’re planning a trip, I highly recommend picking some up—it’s delicious and reasonably priced.
The payment machines in Japan are also quite different from what I'm used to.








Quick Tips & Final Thoughts

Okinawa is well-equipped for tourists, with free public toilets available throughout the island—a convenience that’s much appreciated, especially when you’re short on time. For those with more time, the Yui Rail is a fantastic option for getting around. A one-day pass costs 800 yen, and children up to 12 years old can travel for free. Unfortunately, our tight schedule didn’t allow us to try it, but it’s something I’d recommend for future visits.

Although our time on Okinawa Island was brief, it was packed with memorable moments. From the historical significance of Shuri Castle to the delightful shopping experience at MaxValu, there’s so much to enjoy, even in just a few hours.

After our shopping, we made a quick stop by the beach to enjoy our sushi before heading back to the cruise ship. We returned just in time for dinner, and while the ship offered plenty of entertainment options like a disco and shows, the lack of internet after 10 PM left us with few options to unwind. Traveling with a child also posed its challenges, limiting our ability to fully enjoy the onboard activities. The cruise itself offered various attractions, like a disco and shows, but at 10 PM, the ship set sail for Ishigaki, and soon after, our internet connection was lost. This lack of connectivity might leave some passengers bored or frustrated, especially if they have nothing else to do. Traveling with a child also has its challenges, as it sometimes means you can’t fully engage in all the activities you’d like to.