October 15, 2025

Long Weekend #3: A Trip to Miaoli’s Lion Head Mountain


Travel Date: 2025/10/10

The last of the long weekends couldn’t go without a little trip. This time we stayed in Miaoli and drove around the mountains — I’ve honestly had enough of beaches this year with all the rain and typhoons passing by, so mountain scenery felt like the perfect change.

We revisited Lingxia Cave (靈霞洞), a truly unique site with its Baroque-style archway built right into the rock face. Our second stop was Shuilian Cave (水簾洞), another place we had visited before, but only at night. This was actually our first time seeing it clearly in daylight — and it didn’t disappoint! Still, I’d also recommend coming here during firefly season (around April and May), as the area is known for having plenty of them lighting up the surroundings.

Since it wasn’t far from Nanzhuang, we decided to drive there in search of some persimmons — and it was absolutely worth it. We bought 13 large, perfectly ripe ones for just 200 NT, which felt like such a deal considering that in city shops, a single one can cost 50–60 NT!

Lion’s Head Mountain (獅頭山) – A Sacred Mountain Between Miaoli and Hsinchu

Designated a Provincial Scenic Area in 1993, Lion’s Head Mountain now forms part of the Sanshan National Scenic Area, which also includes Emei Lake and Beipu Old Street. The entire zone spans over 24,000 hectares and offers a blend of Buddhist heritage, Hakka culture, and natural beauty.
There are four main hiking trails, most beginning near the Shitoushan Visitor Center on the Hsinchu side. The best known is the Shishan Historic Trail (獅山古道), which crosses from Hsinchu to Miaoli, connecting a chain of temples such as Yuanguang Temple and Quanhua Temple.

The trails are well-marked and moderate in difficulty, making them ideal for casual hikers. On weekends, you’ll often see local hikers — especially the elderly — walking peacefully between temples, incense drifting through the forest air.
Many of these temples are uniquely built into the landscape — partly within caves, beneath cliffs, or along rock walls — creating a mystical and peaceful atmosphere.
If you visit around mealtime, don’t miss the vegetarian kitchen at Quanhua Temple, where monks serve simple Buddhist meals by donation at 6:30 a.m., noon, and 5:30 p.m.

Nestled on the border of Miaoli and Hsinchu counties, Lion’s Head Mountain (獅頭山) may rise only 492 meters high, but it’s one of Taiwan’s most culturally and spiritually significant peaks. Covered in dense forests, rocky cliffs, caves, and ancient temples, the mountain offers a serene retreat where nature and religion intertwine.

In 1892, a Buddhist monk named Pujie from Taoyuan discovered human bones inside a cave while exploring the area. To honor the deceased, he requested the construction of a temple — what became Shiyan Dong (獅巖洞) or Lion Cave Temple, near the mountain’s peak, whose shape resembles a lion’s head. Later renamed Yuanguang Temple (元光寺), it became the spiritual core that inspired the building of many more temples on the mountain, including Quanhua Temple (勸化堂) on the Miaoli side.






Lingxia Cave (靈霞洞)

One of the most fascinating spots is Lingxia Cave (靈霞洞), a natural stone cave temple built in 1917. Its distinctive Baroque-style archway hides a small sanctuary enshrining Sakyamuni Buddha, Kāla Bodhisattva, Skanda Bodhisattva, Ananda, and Avalokitesvara Bodhisattva. The inscriptions “山空” (mountain emptiness) and “水深” (water depth) carved beside the entrance were added by the monk Dexin in 1932.

In spring, the temple is often surrounded by a sea of clouds, and sunlight filtering through the mist paints the rock faces in glowing, shifting colors — an otherworldly sight that perfectly matches the temple’s name and spirit.




Shuilian Cave (水簾洞) 

For an easy and scenic walk, try the Shuilian Cave Trail, located near the Lion Mountain Visitor Center. The short, paved path leads to Fanyin Temple, a small sanctuary built in 1902 within the largest natural cave on the mountain. A thin waterfall flows down the rock face like a curtain of water — giving the cave its name, Shuilian, meaning “water curtain.”

The trail feels like entering another world — filled with the sounds of trickling water, birdsong, and rustling leaves. Pebble Creek nearby is home to fish, dragonflies, and birds, making it a peaceful stop for reflection.
It’s also a popular spot for firefly watching during the season around April and May.








Nanzhuang Old Street (南庄老街)

Nanzhuang Old Street has a strong Hakka nostalgic flavor, it attracts many tourists during holidays. The main attractions include Yongchang Temple, Old Post Office, Nogizaki, Osmanthus Lane, and Washing Pit. The traditional old street is centered around Zhongzheng Road, with numerous businesses on both sides. 
The laundry pit, located at the end of Guihua Lane, was a place where local residents used to wash clothes, vegetables, and fruits in the early years. The stone washboard above it preserves relics of the Hakka people's diligent and thrifty life in the past.

Nanzhuang's development dates back to the Qing Dynasty, and during the Japanese era, it was a mining area for camphor and coal. Following the severe damage caused by the 1935 earthquake, the Japanese were commissioned to plan the reconstruction project, resulting in the landscape of two-story Japanese-style wooden buildings on both sides of Zhongzheng Road. 

Apart from admiring the characteristic buildings from the Japanese colonial era, you must try the old street's specialty, osmanthus brew, and special Hakka delicacies. The suspension bridge and Nanzhuang Waterfront Park are also excellent places to enjoy the beautiful scenery of Nanzhuang.
Osmanthus Alley of Nanzhuang Old Street is renowned far and wide and is a must-visit for tourists. Various snacks, delicacies, and osmanthus meals are sold in the simple and elegant alleys, allowing tourists to experience the guest house style. 








October 11, 2025

Long Weekend #2: Trip to Nantou - Dalun Mountain and Jiji Town


Travel Date: 2025/10/04

Three long weekends in a row - it can be both a blessing and a curse. On the bright side, having an extra day off gives you a chance to go somewhere new or simply relax. But let’s be honest - no matter where you go, it’s bound to be crowded, and being stuck in traffic is definitely not the fun part.

During the Mid-Autumn Festival weekend, we decided to drive to Nantou, more specifically to Dalun Mountain Ginkgo Forest, a place we last visited five years ago. I was hoping to see the trees turning golden once again.

Dalun Mountain Ginkgo Forest

The mountain road wasn’t particularly wide in many sections, but surprisingly, there were no cars. The highway was clear, the mountains were peaceful, and when we finally arrived, there were only a handful of people - and most came after us!

We wandered through the empty tea farms shaded by ginkgo trees… well, not so shaded, since most of the trees had already lost their leaves. The view I expected and the one I got weren’t quite the same - only a few trees had yellow leaves, and many were still green. Even coming later in the season might not make much difference this year. I’m not sure why the leaves fell so early, but when we visited in mid-November five years ago, the forest was much more vibrant.

Since there are no shops or restaurants nearby, it’s best to bring your own snacks and water. We arrived quite early, around 11 a.m., and still caught some sunshine before the fog rolled in - earlier than I expected. Luckily, we still enjoyed a blue sky and stunning mountain views before the mist covered everything. Once it got foggy, we drove down to Lugu town for lunch.

About the Dalun Mountain Ginkgo Forest

The Dalun Mountain Ginkgo Forest sits at an altitude of 1,300–1,600 meters, with a cool, foggy climate year-round. The surrounding area is also famous for its Shanlinxi mountain tea. If you enjoy tea or want to experience walking among the clouds while admiring lush mountains and savoring local food, this is a great spot.

The forest belongs to tea farmers Zhong Yiquan and Zhong Xiangji, who manage the Tianjiaxiang Tea Garden. Besides producing tea, they offer light meals such as small hot pots and honeyed chicken drumsticks, made with organic vegetables grown at home - all pesticide-free.

Ginkgo is a species that dates back to the Mesozoic era, earning it the nickname “living fossil.” It’s the only broad-leaved deciduous tree among gymnosperms and can grow up to 20–35 meters tall. Its seeds, called ginkgo nuts, are edible and often used in Asian cuisine.

In Taiwan, Dalun Mountain has the largest cultivated Ginkgo biloba forest, covering about 60–80 hectares. The tree’s fan-shaped leaves turn from green to brilliant gold in autumn - a truly magical sight when the timing is right. 













Shima Park (石馬公園) - October Cherry Blossoms

After eating, we stopped by Shima Park, where cherry trees were in bloom - yes, cherry blossoms in October! We actually saw them here five years ago too, which is why I wanted to check again. The park is not very large but beautiful, with walking paths and a few benches surrounded by seasonal flowers. It’s a lovely stop if you’re already in the area.











A Quiet Afternoon in Jiji Town

Since it was still early, we decided to drive to Jiji Town. To my surprise, the town felt almost deserted - very different from how I remembered it before.

Our first stop was Mingxin Academy (明新書院), a traditional three-sided courtyard building with red brick walls and a serene atmosphere. Built during the Guangxu reign, it was established when the local camphor trade was booming. The academy honors Confucius, the Emperor Wenchang, and other deities related to learning and literature.

Over the years, it has hosted cultural and folk events, helping preserve local traditions. The main hall’s rooftop features detailed carvings of dragons, flowers, and a boy riding a kirin — all beautifully symbolic. The site was designated a Class III historical monument in 1985 and later restored using traditional materials.












Our next stop was Jiji Wuchang Temple (集集武昌宮), dedicated to the God of Xuantian. The temple has a powerful history - the original structure collapsed during the devastating 921 earthquake in 1999, shortly after being expanded. The ruins remain preserved beside the newly rebuilt temple, which opened in 2013.
Seeing the remains of the old temple reminded me how fragile things can be, and I sincerely hope never to face a quake that strong.


Even though this trip didn’t turn out quite as I imagined - with fewer ginkgo leaves and foggy weather - it was still a lovely getaway from the city. The quiet mountains, fresh air, and peaceful scenery made it worth the drive.
Sometimes travel isn’t about finding the perfect view, but about slowing down and appreciating the moment - even when things don’t go exactly as planned.