Travel Date: 2025/06/21
I was randomly scrolling through Google Maps, as I always do, looking for something new to explore.
It’s getting harder and harder to find places I haven’t seen - even though I don’t have that many videos yet, my blog has been around much longer than my channel, so I’ve already visited and written about a lot of places there.
I’ve noticed that quite a few places in Taiwan are connected to the Japanese occupation era, and honestly, I really enjoy visiting them. There's something fascinating about seeing the different architecture, the remains of shrines, and old Japanese-style buildings. This time, I found a place that I think not many people really know about.
To be honest, Yunlin isn’t a major tourist destination, even many Taiwanese people I’ve met have never actually been here. And if they have, it’s usually just to places like Beigang, Douliu, Huwei, or maybe Xiluo. The smaller townships often get overlooked, probably because they seem like they don’t have much to offer.
I’ll admit, even I sometimes get bored with Yunlin. There really isn’t that much to see, especially if you don’t have your own transportation. Without a car or scooter, it can be pretty hard to get around, and your options for exploring are quite limited.
Former Taiwan Mitsubishi Paper Mill Office Building (原台灣三菱製紙所辦公廳舍(林內驛棧))
Yunlin County's Linnei Township might seem like a quiet corner, but delve a little deeper, and you'll uncover layers of fascinating history. From an ambitious industrial venture to a revered spiritual site, Linnei offers a unique glimpse into Taiwan's past under Japanese rule and its subsequent transformations.
Hidden in plain sight at No. 9, Xinxing Road, in Linnei's Linzhong Village, stands the Former Taiwan Mitsubishi Paper Mill Office Building. Completed in 1911, this distinctive hip-roofed structure with its outer brick arches is more than just an old building; it's a designated cultural asset and a tangible link to Taiwan's early industrialization.
Originally the administrative heart of the Taiwan Mitsubishi Paper Mill, this venture was a bold move by the Mitsubishi Paper Mill partnership from Japan. Why here? The Japanese Governor-General's Office had identified central and southern Taiwan's abundant moso bamboo as ideal for papermaking. In 1908, Mitsubishi leased extensive bamboo forests, leading to the mill's construction north of Linnei Station in 1909. By June 1911, the mill was operational, producing wood pulp from bamboo.
However, despite its grand opening in 1912, the mill's success was short-lived. Market demand fell short, and technological breakthroughs proved elusive. By 1914, production ceased, and the entire operation shut down in February 1916. The story of this mill is also intertwined with local history, as the forceful demarcation of bamboo forests led to the significant Linqipu Incident (Bamboo Forest Incident) of 1912, highlighting the tensions of the era.
After World War II, the office building found new life, serving as the headquarters for Bao Long Paper. Today, this historic structure, officially recognized in 2006 (and renamed in 2009 from "Former Linnei Township Office"), holds promise for the future, with plans to integrate it into an eco-park alongside the former Bao Long Paper Mill site. It stands as a silent witness to industrial ambition and local resilience.
The Linnei Shrine Remnants (林内神社)
Just a short distance away, in the heart of Linnei Township, lies another profound historical site: the Linnei Shrine (林内神社). Though largely dismantled after World War II, its remnants offer a poignant connection to Taiwan's Japanese colonial past and its subsequent transformation.
I actually decided to climb the entire stairs, but my husband... well, let's just say he's not quite as enthusiastic about this kind of activity! So he googled a road and drove all the way to the top.
But here's the funny part: I walked pretty slowly, stopping to take pictures, and guess what? We arrived at the temple at the exact same time!
Built between 1939 and 1940, the Linnei Shrine was a significant Shinto site, dedicated to Prince Kitashirakawa Yoshihisa, the Three Pioneer Deities, and Toyouke-Ōmikami. Its annual festival on March 3rd was a key event. The construction was massive, involving thousands of man-days of compulsory labor, reflecting the Japanese government's push for shrine building across the island.
After 1945, political shifts led to the shrine's gradual destruction. By 1957, the main hall and worship hall were demolished to make way for the Linnei Jigong General Temple (濟公總廟). Yet, remarkably, parts of the shrine survived. The first and second concrete torii gates were preserved, their plaques changed to "Linnei Park," signifying a new public purpose.
In recent years, a commendable effort has been made to restore elements like the sacred bridge (Shinkyo), purification font (Temizuya), and several Kasuga lanterns. What makes Linnei unique is that it's currently the only shrine remnant in Taiwan with three complete sets of torii gates – two original and one new archway for Jigongtang Temple – creating a tangible link to its layered past.
Visiting Linnei Shrine today is a journey through architectural styles and historical narratives. It's a testament to how places evolve, adapt, and sometimes, are reborn.
The Longguomai Forest Trail (龍過脈森林步道)
After immersing yourself in Linnei's rich history, why not breathe deep the fresh air and connect with its natural splendor? The Longguomai Forest Trail (龍過脈森林步道) offers a perfect opportunity to balance your historical exploration with an invigorating outdoor adventure.
This beautiful trail invites you to wander through verdant forests, providing a refreshing escape into Yunlin's natural landscape. It's an excellent choice for hikers of all levels, offering a chance to stretch your legs, enjoy scenic views, and appreciate the tranquility of the forest. It’s the perfect way to round out your visit, experiencing both the man-made heritage and the untouched beauty of Linnei.
At first, we followed signs pointing to a “viewing platform”… but it turned out to be more of a trail junction than an actual viewpoint!
After checking the map, we chose a short trail, about 500 meters long, hoping to catch a glimpse of some Rhinoceros beetles. But instead of beetles, we got a surprise leg workout!
The trail quickly turned challenging - steep, narrow, and not always well-maintained. Some of the wooden steps were broken, so we had to move carefully, watching every step.
Interestingly, this area is also part of a butterfly migration route. Every October, butterflies pass through from south to north, and if you visit at the right time, it's a truly magical sight. While this trail may not be a must-see for everyone, it’s a lovely addition to your itinerary if you enjoy nature walks and mountain paths.
By the end of it, we hadn’t seen a single beetle - just two people, sweaty, out of breath, and realizing that playing football doesn’t exactly prepare you for hiking uphill!
To wrap up the day, we also stopped by a local temple (more on that in the next post!), wandered through a night market, and visited a nearby park that, to our surprise, still had Lantern Festival decorations up - a colorful and unexpected bonus!
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