Poland Travel 2023: Discover the Enchanting Gothic Charms of Toruń

Travel Date: 2023/03/24 ~ 04/12 

Torun: 2023/04/05

Last day of our trip and my favorite city - Toruń. The day before, we visited Poznań, yesterday Gniezno, and Bydgoszcz. It's still cold, but there's more sunshine today. Although we're starting to feel a bit tired from traveling (mostly due to the freezing temperatures), we haven't been able to see everything I had planned for today. Toruń is a great place to visit if you love Gothic architecture. The city is filled with 14th-century buildings and walls, and I love coming back here every time we're in Poland! It's also the nearest city for us to visit, only a one-hour drive from my aunt's place.

We woke up early and, without having breakfast, drove from Bydgoszcz to Toruń. We arrived around 9 AM, and it was still cold. We parked near the University and went to the center of the old city to find breakfast. The annoying part is that we couldn't use a credit card to pay for car parking, and we had already used up all the coins we had, which amounted to about 20PLN. So, we only had about 2.5 hours to walk around.

We had breakfast at Manekin, a popular pancake shop here. Although you only get one pancake for about 20PLN, it's really filling! Afterwards, we explored the town. I feel like Toruń has so much to see, and we didn't have enough time to cover everything!

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Mediaeval Defensive Walls and Towers

Since its foundation in the first half of the 13th century, Toruń has been surrounded by a double line of defensive walls. The outer wall, known as the lower wall, and the inner wall, referred to as the higher wall, were separated by a wet moat. However, the section facing the Vistula River had a single line of walls. Over the centuries, these walls underwent constant improvement, including heightening, strengthening, and extensions. The initial modifications began in the late 13th century.

Each of Toruń's three urban units, namely the Old City, the New City, and the Teutonic Castle, had its own defensive system. The 4-kilometer wall encompassed 54 fortified towers, 11 gates, and 2 typical barbicans. To enhance their appearance, the walls, towers, and gates were adorned with ceramic friezes, painted motifs in the plastered blind windows, dark bricks arranged in rhombic patterns, and other decorative elements.

Today, nine towers and three gates still stand as a testament to Toruń's historical fortifications. They serve as reminders of the city's rich past and contribute to its architectural charm.

Medieval Gates

Out of the twelve medieval gates that once existed in Toruń (eight in the Old City and four in the New City), only three gates have survived to this day. The majority of the gates, along with the city walls, were dismantled primarily during the second half of the 19th century. The remaining gates are located along the Vistula River.

Two of the preserved gates were notably wide and imposing, characteristic of gates found in Flanders. One of them is the non-preserved Paulinian Gate (Brama Paulińska), which featured an octagonal superstructure added in the first half of the 14th century. The other surviving gate is the Monastic Gate (Brama Klasztorna), dating back to the first half of the 14th century.

The demolition of the other gates, including the Chełmno Gate (Brama Chełmińska), was a significant loss for Toruń. These gates held historical and architectural significance, and their removal resulted in the disappearance of valuable cultural heritage. The surviving gates serve as important reminders of Toruń's medieval past and contribute to the city's overall charm and character.

The Leaning Tower

The Leaning Tower is undoubtedly the most attractive and famous tower in Toruń. Originally built as a fortified tower during the 14th century as part of the city walls, it was initially a straight tower with four walls. However, it lacked a front wall at first, which made it easier to hoist ammunition to the upper floors.

This popular tourist attraction started leaning during the Middle Ages, most likely due to unstable ground conditions. Despite its tilt, it has remained stable ever since. Currently, the tower, which stands at 15 meters (49.2 feet) in height, leans 146 cm (4.8 feet) off the perpendicular on the side facing the street.

In the 18th century, the tower ceased to serve its defensive purpose. The fourth wall was added, and the floors were leveled. Subsequently, the tower was transformed into a prison for women. During the 19th century, it was used as a forge and a residence for a gunsmith. In the latter half of the 19th century, it was exclusively used for accommodation purposes. Presently, it houses a pub and the Municipal Institution of Culture.

Old City Town Hall (Ratusz Staromiejski)

Located in the center of the Old City Market Square, the monumental Old City Town Hall is one of the largest and most magnificent buildings of its kind in Europe. It stands as a testament to Toruń's former glory as a trading empire of the Hanseatic League. The construction of the town hall was authorized by the Teutonic Grand Master Conrad von Wallenrode in the late 14th century, during the peak of prosperity for the medieval Old City of Toruń.

The Old City Hall served dual purposes. The ground floor housed merchant halls, including the Cloth Hall, the bread benches, the City Scales, and the Judicial Hall. On the first floor, the municipal authorities occupied various rooms, such as the Council Hall (later referred to as the Senate Hall since the sixteenth century), the Tribute Office, the Wet Office, the Chancellery, and the Kamlaria Office (the Town Coffers Room), among others.

Originally, from the second half of the thirteenth century, the site was occupied by separate structures arranged in a similar quadrangle.

The tower, adorned with exquisite Gothic ornamentation, is the oldest section of the current building. Dating back to 1274, it was raised to its present height of 40 meters in 1385. The design was influenced by belfries found in Flanders, combining a tower with market halls that also served as watchtowers. Toruń established close trade connections with cities in Flanders, particularly Bruges, Ghent, and Ypres, as early as the mid-thirteenth century. The tower served as a storage space for archives, armor, and valuable items, and it also functioned as a prison.

Around 1430, a pointed helmet, or spire, was added to the tower. At the top of the spire, a golden crown was hung, symbolizing Toruń's sovereignty and royal privileges. Unfortunately, the tower suffered irreparable damage during the Swedish siege in 1703, signifying the decline of Toruń's greatest glory and power.

During the years 1603-1604, which marked another period of prosperity for the city, the Old City Town Hall underwent reconstruction under the guidance of the outstanding Flemish architect Anton van Obberghen. Mannerist elements were added, overlaying the original Gothic forms. While the Gothic pointed blind windows on the facades were retained, an additional story was built, along with Mannerist sandstone corner turrets and beautiful gables on each facade's axis (though the gables were destroyed in 1703). The interior halls were also redecorated and enhanced. The exquisite interiors, adorned by superb artists (many of which were also destroyed in 1703), reflected Toruń's wealth and influence.

The Grand Hall hosted the famous Colloquium Charitativum in 1645 and three sessions of the Polish Sejm (Diet) in 1519/20, 1576, and 1626. The Old City Hall was a venue for political negotiations and meetings involving monarchs.

Address:

1. Manekin Pancake Shop: Rynek Staromiejski 16, 87-100 Toruń, Poland
2. Old Town Hall: Rynek Staromiejski 1, 87-100 Toruń, Poland
3. House of Nicolaus Copernicus: Mikołaja Kopernika 15/17, 87-100 Toruń, Poland
4. The Leaning Tower: Pod Krzywą Wieżą 1, 87-100 Toruń, Poland
5. Monastic Gate (Brama Klasztorna): Ducha Świętego 1, 87-100 Toruń, Poland
6. Toruń Castle: Przedzamcze 3, 87-100 Toruń, Poland
7. Gingerbread Museum: Rabiańska 9, 87-100 Toruń, Poland

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Poland Travel 2023: Explore the Rich Heritage and Vibrant Charm of Bydgoszcz

Travel Date: 2023/03/24 ~ 04/12

Bydgoszcz: 2023/04/04 

On the second day of our trip, we arrived in Bydgoszcz. Yesterday, we visited Poznań, and earlier today, we explored Gniezno. Tomorrow, we're heading to Toruń. The weather is quite cold, with temperatures below freezing in the morning. Today, it even snowed a little, and we didn't see much sunshine. Despite the weather, there were a few nice things to see, especially near the old market square. The buildings in Bydgoszcz mainly date back to the 19th century, giving the city a different architectural style compared to Poznań or Toruń. Each city has its own unique vibe. We visited the old Granaries, Post Office, Churches, and Lloyds Palace.

Bydgoszcz is located in northern Poland, situated at the confluence of the River Vistula and its left-bank tributary, the Brda. As of December 2021, it has a city population of 339,053, making it the eighth-largest city in Poland. Bydgoszcz is the seat of Bydgoszcz County and shares the title of co-capital of the Kuyavian-Pomeranian Voivodeship with Toruń. The Bydgoszcz–Toruń metropolitan area has a total population of over 850,000. The city is home to Casimir the Great University, the University of Technology and Life Sciences, a conservatory, and the Medical College of Nicolaus Copernicus University in Toruń. Bydgoszcz also boasts the Pomeranian Philharmonic concert hall, the Opera Nova opera house, and Bydgoszcz Airport. The city is well-connected by rivers and canals, with the Vistula, Oder, and German canals providing access to the Rhine and ultimately the Mediterranean and Black Seas.

Architecturally, Bydgoszcz is a treasure trove, showcasing various styles such as Gothic, Neo-Gothic, Neo-Baroque, Neoclassical, Modernist, and Art Nouveau. Due to its diverse architectural heritage, the city has earned the nickname "Little Berlin." The remarkable granaries on Mill Island and along the riverside are among the most renowned timber-framed landmarks in Poland.

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Main Post Office

The Main Post Office in Bydgoszcz comprises a complex of historical post buildings owned by the Polish Post Services Office in Bydgoszcz. These buildings have been listed on the Kuyavian-Pomeranian Voivodeship Heritage List. The presence of royal mail institutions in Bydgoszcz dates back to the first half of the 18th century, as evidenced by postal statutes of the Crown General Post in 1733, 1754, and 1766.

The Main Post Office complex is constructed in the "Prussian national style," which was prevalent in the late 19th century and mandated for new official buildings in the German Empire. The old building is made of brick and consists of one storey, an attic, and a basement. It features two wings with slight avant-corps: one runs parallel to the river, while the other covers half the length of Pocztowa Street. Within the courtyard, there is a pentagonal tower that houses a staircase. The newer building has a "U" shape, with a substantial structure facing Jagiellońska Street and a tall tower situated in the northwestern corner. This more recent edifice is larger and taller than the riverside building.

Lloyd's Palace

Lloyd of Bydgoszcz was a significant shipping company based in Bydgoszcz, during the era of the Second Republic of Poland (1918-1939). The company played a crucial role in maritime trade and transportation, particularly in the region of Bydgoszcz and along the Vistula River.

Founded in the late 19th century, Lloyd of Bydgoszcz quickly grew into one of the largest shipping companies in Poland. It operated a fleet of vessels that transported goods and passengers along the Vistula River and connected Bydgoszcz with other cities and ports in Poland and beyond. The company's ships played a vital role in facilitating trade and commerce, contributing to the economic development of the region.

The "Little Palace" in Bydgoszcz, built in 1885-1886, served as the headquarters of Lloyd of Bydgoszcz. Designed in the Dutch Mannerist architectural style by Waldemar Jenisch, the building is an architectural gem, characterized by intricate details and elegant design elements. It stood as a symbol of the company's prosperity and influence in the shipping industry.

Unfortunately, with the outbreak of World War II and the subsequent changes in Poland's political landscape, Lloyd of Bydgoszcz faced numerous challenges. The company's operations were severely impacted, and its fleet of ships suffered losses and damage during the war. The post-war period brought further changes to the shipping industry, leading to the decline of Lloyd of Bydgoszcz and its eventual dissolution.

Today, the "Little Palace" stands as a historical landmark in Bydgoszcz, serving as a reminder of the city's maritime heritage and the once-thriving shipping company that played a vital role in the region's economic development.

The Old Port Granary built in 1835

The three granaries located on Grodzka Street in Bydgoszcz, situated by the picturesque Brda River near the old Market Square, hold the official status of being the city's symbol. Originally constructed during the turn of the 19th century, these granaries served as storage facilities for grain and similar agricultural products. Today, they house exhibitions belonging to the Leon Wyczółkowski District Museum.

Bydgoszcz has managed to preserve a few historical granaries, with only four of them dating back to a time earlier than the 19th century. These granaries are all situated along the riverbanks in the city center, characterized by their half-timbered construction, and presently function as museums.

The three granaries located at 9-11 Grodzka Street, which also serve as the modern logo of Bydgoszcz, were constructed between 1793 and 1800 by the merchant Samuel Gotlieb Engelmann. Originally, the complex on Grodzka Street consisted of five granaries placed in a row. Unfortunately, in 1960, two of these granaries were completely destroyed. However, due to their deep-rooted significance in the urban tradition of Bydgoszcz, many voices in the city advocated for their reconstruction. The preserved granaries were converted into museum exhibitions in 1962, and in 2006, a significant overhaul and modernization of the interior were carried out.

Old castle of Bydgoszcz

During the early Slavic period, a fishing settlement known as Bydgozcya (referred to as "Bydgostia" in Latin) emerged as a stronghold along the Vistula trade routes. The gród (fortress) of Bydgoszcz was constructed between 1037 and 1053 under the reign of Casimir I the Restorer. In the 13th century, Bydgoszcz became the site of a castellany, mentioned in 1238, likely established in the early 12th century during the rule of Bolesław III Wrymouth. During this period, the first church of Bydgoszcz, dedicated to Saint Giles, was built. Unfortunately, the church was demolished by the Germans in the late 19th century.

Bydgoszcz's history saw it embroiled in conflicts during the Polish-Teutonic War (1326-1332). In 1330, the city was captured and destroyed by the Teutonic Knights. It briefly returned under Polish control but was once again occupied by the Teutonic Knights from 1331 to 1337 and annexed to their monastic state as Bromberg. However, in 1337, Bydgoszcz was recaptured by Poland and remained under Polish rule. In 1343, as part of the Treaty of Kalisz, the Teutonic Knights relinquished Bydgoszcz, along with Dobrzyń and the remaining Kuyavia region, to Poland. On April 19, 1346, King Casimir III of Poland granted Bydgoszcz city rights. The king bestowed various privileges, including those related to river trade on the Brda and Vistula rivers, the right to mint coins, and ordered the construction of a castle, which became the seat of the castellan. Bydgoszcz held significant importance as a royal city of Poland, situated in the Inowrocław Voivodeship.

Cathedral of St Martin and St Nicolas

The Cathedral of St Martin and St Nicolas, also known as Fara Church, holds the distinction of being the oldest building in Bydgoszcz. It's a three-aisle late Gothic church that was constructed between 1466 and 1502. The cathedral features remarkable architectural elements and artistic treasures.

One of the notable highlights within the cathedral is a late-Gothic painting called "Madonna with a Rose" or "the Holy Virgin of Beautiful Love," which dates back to the 16th century. This painting is a significant artistic piece that adds to the cultural and historical value of the cathedral.

In addition to the historical elements, the cathedral's interior also features a vibrant 20th-century polychrome. The colorful polychrome work is worthy of admiration and contributes to the overall visual splendor of the church.

The Cathedral of St Martin and St Nicolas, with its rich history, architectural beauty, and artistic treasures, stands as an important religious and cultural landmark in Bydgoszcz. 

Address:

1. Historical Post Office: Jagiellońska 6, 85-001 Bydgoszcz, Poland
2. Lloyds Palace: Grodzka 17, 85-001 Bydgoszcz, Poland
3. Port Granaries: Grodzka 7/11, 85-109 Bydgoszcz, Poland
4. Market Square: Stary Rynek, 85-105 Bydgoszcz, Poland
5. Parish. St. Peter and Paul: plac Wolności, 85-007 Bydgoszcz, Poland

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Poland Travel 2023: Discover the Historic Grandeur of Gniezno, Poland's Ancient Capital

Travel Date: 2023/03/24 ~ 04/12

Gniezno: 2023/04/04 

On the second day of our trip, we made our first stop in Gniezno. Despite being a small town, it holds immense historical value. In the 10th and 11th centuries, Gniezno served as the first capital of Poland. Yesterday, we visited Poznań and later today, we will be heading to Bydgoszcz, followed by our visit to Toruń tomorrow.

The weather during our travel is quite cold, with temperatures dropping below freezing in the morning. It's so chilly that it feels as if our muscles are frozen, making it difficult to even speak.

Gniezno is located in central-western Poland, approximately 50 kilometers east of Poznań. As of 2021, it has a population of 66,769, making it the sixth-largest city in the Greater Poland Voivodeship. The city has great historical significance as one of the chief cities of the Piast dynasty. In the 10th and early 11th centuries, it served as the first historical capital of Poland and is mentioned in 10th-century sources, possibly including the Dagome Iudex, as the capital of Piast Poland.

Gniezno is also renowned as the seat of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Gniezno, the oldest archdiocese in the country, founded in 1000. The archbishop of Gniezno holds the title of the primate of Poland, making the city the ecclesiastical capital of the country. Additionally, Gniezno serves as the administrative seat of Gniezno County (powiat).

As one of the historic centers of the Greater Poland region, Gniezno is considered the birthplace of the Polish state. The city is built on seven hills, akin to Rome, with notable ones including Lech Hill, where the Gniezno Cathedral is located, and Panieńskie Hill, which is home to the Rynek (Market Square). Gniezno also boasts the presence of five lakes within its city limits, namely Winiary, Jelonek, Świętokrzyskie, Koszyk, and Zacisze.

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Gniezno Cathedral & Gniezno Door

The Royal Gniezno Cathedral, officially known as the Primatial Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary and Shrine of St. Adalbert (Bazylika Archikatedralna Wniebowzięcia Najświętszej Marii Panny i Sanktuarium św. Wojciecha), is a magnificent example of Brick Gothic architecture situated in the historic city of Gniezno. It holds great significance as the place where several Polish monarchs were coronated and has served as the continuous seat of Polish church officials for nearly 1000 years. Despite enduring a long and tumultuous history, the cathedral has managed to remain largely intact, making it one of Poland's oldest and most treasured religious monuments.

One of the notable features of the cathedral is its twelfth-century two-winged bronze doors, known as the Gniezno Doors (Drzwi Gnieźnieńskie). These doors are adorned with eighteen bas-relief scenes depicting the life and martyrdom of St. Adalbert (Wojciech), whose remains were acquired for their weight in gold and brought back to the cathedral to be enshrined. The cathedral itself is of Gothic architecture, predating the doors as they were carried over from an earlier temple. Created around 1175 during the reign of Mieszko III the Old, the Gniezno Doors are considered one of the most significant works of Romanesque art in Poland.

The left door, when facing the reliefs from outside the cathedral, stands at a height of 328 cm and is 84 cm wide, while the right door measures 323 cm in height and 83 cm in width. Both doors have a thickness ranging from 1.5 to 2.5 cm. They were cast in bronze using the lost wax casting technique, employing a mixture of copper and tin with a small amount of lead. Finer details were added after casting through the use of engraving tools. The left leaf was cast as a single piece, while the right leaf was made from 24 cast sections that were later soldered together. The lion-headed knockers, though not perfectly aligned, were also cast separately and soldered onto the doors.

The Gniezno Cathedral and its Gniezno Doors are recognized as one of Poland's national Historical Monuments (Pomnik historii), a designation received on September 16, 1994. Their preservation and historical significance are closely monitored by the National Heritage Board of Poland.

Medieval seal of Gniezno

Gniezno has a rich history dating back to ancient times. Archaeological evidence indicates human settlement in the area since the late Paleolithic era. Early Slavonic settlements on Lech Hill and Maiden Hill can be traced back to the 8th century. During the 10th century, Gniezno held significant religious importance as a sacred site in the Slavic religion.

Around 940, Gniezno became a prominent fortress and pagan cult center under the early Piast rulers. It was one of the main strongholds alongside other fortresses such as Giecz, Kruszwica, Poznań, Kalisz, Łęczyca, Ostrów Lednicki, Płock, and Włocławek. Archaeological excavations conducted in 2010 on Lech Hill revealed an 11th-century tomb near the remains of a previously discovered pagan burial mound. These discoveries suggest that Lech Hill may have served as a burial place for rulers even before the baptism of Mieszko I, the first historical ruler of Poland. After Mieszko I adopted Christianity, his son Bolesław I the Brave built a church on the hill and enshrined the remains of Saint Adalbert there, emphasizing Gniezno's significance as a religious center and the capital of the kingdom.

In the year 1000, the Congress of Gniezno took place, during which Bolesław I the Brave, the Duke of Poland, received Holy Roman Emperor Otto III. This congress celebrated the foundation of the Polish ecclesiastical province (archbishopric) in Gniezno. The Gniezno Cathedral, which dates back to the 10th century, witnessed the royal coronations of Bolesław I in 1024 and his son Mieszko II Lambert in 1025.

In 1038, Gniezno, along with nearby Poznań, was captured, plundered, and destroyed by the Bohemian duke Bretislav I, leading subsequent Polish rulers to relocate the capital to Kraków. The archepiscopal cathedral was reconstructed under the rule of Bolesław II the Generous, who was crowned king in Gniezno in 1076.

Over the centuries, Gniezno evolved as a regional seat in the eastern part of Greater Poland. In 1238, it was granted municipal autonomy by Duke Władysław Odonic. Gniezno continued to serve as a coronation site, with coronations taking place in 1295 and 1300.

The historical significance of Gniezno and its role in the early Polish state make it a city of great importance in Polish history.

Museum of the Beginnings of Poland

The Museum of the Beginnings of the Polish State in Gniezno offers visitors a unique opportunity to explore the history of Poland in the early Middle Ages, as well as the history of Gniezno and its surroundings. The museum showcases a wide range of valuable exhibits, including a significant collection of Baroque and Renaissance stove tiles, 19th-century paintings, and fragments of equipment from the Gniezno Cathedral.

The museum features both permanent and temporary exhibitions, providing visitors with a comprehensive understanding of the early Polish state. One of the most captivating exhibitions is "The Beginning of the Polish State," which was officially opened in 1983. This exhibition boasts over 500 artifacts, including a reconstruction of the wooden fortress of Gniezno from the 10th century, architectural details from the Gniezno Cathedral, and objects related to the religion and daily life of the first Piasts. Additionally, visitors can explore elements of old military equipment.

In addition to the main exhibition, the museum also hosts other captivating displays such as "Gniezno in the Olden Days," "The Armory in Old Poland," and "The Piasts Painted History." These exhibitions further enhance the visitor's understanding of the historical and cultural context of the first Piasts.

To enrich the museum experience, an audiovisual performance is available, allowing visitors to delve deeper into the history and culture of the early Piasts. The museum offers a fascinating journey through time, showcasing the beginnings of the Polish state and the significance of Gniezno in shaping the nation's history.

Address:

1. Gniezno Cathedral: Wzgórze Lecha, 62-200 Gniezno, Poland
2. Old Market Square: Rynek 17, 62-200 Gniezno, Poland
3. Museum: Kostrzewskiego 1, 62-200 Gniezno, Poland

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