Okinawa: Exploring History, Shopping, and Quick Tips (Part I)

Travel Date: 2024/08/11 - 2024/08/14

Instead of the usual flight or ferry, we decided to embark on a less conventional adventure - cruising to Japan. Our journey took us to the vibrant streets of Naha City in Okinawa and the serene beauty of Ishigaki Island. Over the course of three nights and four days, we experienced the unique blend of relaxation and exploration that cruising offers. But as we soon discovered, this mode of travel comes with its own set of surprises.

Join me on a whirlwind 4-day, 3-night cruise to Japan’s serene Okinawa Prefecture, where the reality of just a few hours on land brought both memorable experiences and unique challenges. From the historic Shuri Castle in Okinawa to the tranquil yet limited offerings of Ishigaki Island, I navigated quiet streets, savored fresh sushi, and tackled the quirks of limited time ashore. These posts recount the highlights of our brief land excursions, the nostalgic charm of older taxis, the unexpected challenges of finding food, and the joys of traveling with family. Despite the short visits, each day unfolded with new discoveries that made the journey truly unforgettable.

Okinawa (沖縄本島)

Our cruise to Japan took us to the beautiful Okinawa Island, where we had a brief but memorable visit. Despite the tight schedule, we made the most of our time. Here's a snapshot of our day, including the highlights, challenges, and some practical tips for anyone planning a trip to Okinawa.

Okinawa Island, located in the Ryukyu Islands of Japan, is the largest island in the Ryukyu archipelago. Covering an area of 1,206.98 square kilometers, it stretches approximately 106 kilometers in length and 11 kilometers in width. Situated about 640 kilometers south of Kyushu and 500 kilometers northeast of Taiwan, Okinawa features a humid subtropical climate with lush subtropical forests, notably in the Yanbaru region. The island is known for its rich history, including its role during World War II and its post-war significance as a major U.S. military base. Okinawa is also renowned for its high longevity rates among residents, making it one of the world's "Blue Zones.

Our ship docked at Okinawa Island around 2 PM, but... we didn't step foot on land until about 4 PM. With only a few hours before we had to head back, the pressure was on to make the most of our limited time. Shuri Castle was at the top of our list, followed by a quick shopping trip. The short window of time was frustrating, especially given how much there is to see on the island, but we embraced the adventure.

Getting Around: Taxis

Navigating Okinawa was relatively straightforward, but not without its quirks. We grabbed a taxi from the cruise terminal to Shuri Castle, which cost us 2,300 yen and took about 20-25 minutes. The taxi ride was smooth, and the driver spoke English, which made things easier. After visiting the castle, we quickly found another taxi to continue our exploration. Communication was a bit challenging this time, but giving him phone with Google Maps saved the day and we arrived at our destination. An interesting detail: many of the taxis in Okinawa are older models, which added a nostalgic touch to our journey.

Shuri Castle: A Glimpse into History

Our main destination was Shuri Castle, a site rich in historical significance. Unfortunately, we didn’t realize that the castle had been burned down and is currently being rebuilt. Given this, I wouldn’t recommend paying to enter the paid zone until the reconstruction is complete. Despite this, it was still fascinating to see the site and imagine its former grandeur.

Shuri Castle, once the political, cultural, and religious heart of the Ryukyu Kingdom, stands as a powerful symbol of Okinawa’s rich heritage. Perched on a small hill and encircled by curving walls, the castle was not just a royal residence but also the kingdom's center of governance, where diplomacy and rituals intertwined. Its distinctive architecture, blending Chinese and Japanese influences, reflects the deep historical ties between these cultures.

The castle’s brilliant vermilion color and west-facing structures are unique markers of its grandeur. Despite its destruction during the Battle of Okinawa in 1945, Shuri Castle was restored in 1992 to commemorate the 20th anniversary of Okinawa’s reversion to Japan. The restored castle, modeled after its 18th-century form, now serves as a national park and a vivid reminder of the Ryukyu Kingdom’s legacy.

In 2000, Shuri Castle was recognized as Japan’s 11th UNESCO World Heritage Site, celebrated for its historical and cultural significance. The castle grounds, with their sacred sites and open squares, echo the spiritual and artistic vibrancy that once flourished there. Even after the Ryukyu Kingdom was annexed and the castle repurposed for military and educational use, its essence as the soul of Okinawa remained intact.

On the morning of October 31, 2019, the main courtyard structures of the castle were again destroyed in a fire. Reconstruction is ongoing and is expected to be fully completed by the autumn of 2026. I didn't do much research beforehand and had no idea that the castle was destroyed, but it was interesting to see the restoration in progress.

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Taking Cruise to Japan - Pros and Cons

Travel Date: 2024/08/11 - 2024/08/14

Instead of the usual flight or ferry, we decided to embark on a less conventional adventure - cruising to Japan. Our journey took us to the vibrant streets of Naha City in Okinawa and the serene beauty of Ishigaki Island. Over the course of three nights and four days, we experienced the unique blend of relaxation and exploration that cruising offers. But as we soon discovered, this mode of travel comes with its own set of surprises.

Join me on a whirlwind 4-day, 3-night cruise to Japan’s serene Okinawa Prefecture, where the reality of just a few hours on land brought both memorable experiences and unique challenges. From the historic Shuri Castle in Okinawa to the tranquil yet limited offerings of Ishigaki Island, I navigated quiet streets, savored fresh sushi, and tackled the quirks of limited time ashore. These posts recount the highlights of our brief land excursions, the nostalgic charm of older taxis, the unexpected challenges of finding food, and the joys of traveling with family. Despite the short visits, each day unfolded with new discoveries that made the journey truly unforgettable.

Transportation to the Cruise 

We drove to Keelung, where the cruise departed, but finding parking was a challenge. It’s a 1.5-hour drive from our place, which seemed faster and less troublesome than taking the train, but... By 11 AM, all parking spots were full. We eventually found one over 1 km away, and although it cost over 800 NT for 3 nights, it was the cheapest option we could find. Parking in Keelung is not only scarce but also expensive. Many parking lots charge 30 NT per hour (or half-hour) without a time limit! It could end up costing almost as much per day, or even more, compared to what we paid for 3 days.

We drove around for nearly an hour, checking several car parks and spaces along the roads. We eventually parked in iRent, which was the only parking lot available! By the way, the taxi from there to the cruise cost 120 NT.

I recommend taking a train there as it could save both time and money.

Waiting for boarding, the line was long, really, really long, and we had to wait for about 2 hours. We eventually boarded at 2 PM, just in time for lunch, and the cruise set sail at 4 PM.

Duration & Schedule

While the allure of a cruise lies in its ability to transport you from one place to another in comfort, the reality is that a significant portion of your time will be spent on the ship itself. For us, only about 10% of our trip was dedicated to exploring Japan, which might leave some travelers craving more time on land. This ratio is perfect for those looking to unwind on the open sea but may feel limiting for those eager to immerse themselves in the destinations.

I had planned to visit a few places, but time didn’t allow for that. It was our first time in Japan, so it’s really disappointing that we couldn’t fully enjoy it. The cruise might be ideal for older travelers who don’t want to walk around much, as they can enjoy the ship itself. However, with a child, it wasn’t as enjoyable. Our son got bored and constantly needed our attention. Forget about getting into the pool and relaxing!

Dining

Dinner was a particularly memorable part of the day, served in a formal setting with a four-course meal that added a touch of elegance to our evenings. Although the fixed dinner time of 19:45 was a bit rigid, it allowed us to unwind and reflect on the day's activities. The contrast between the casual buffet breakfasts and lunches and the more refined dinners kept the dining experience varied and enjoyable.

All meals were included, which was a great convenience, but it’s important to remember that tips are expected per day. 

There was also brewed coffee and four different teas to brew yourself, and except for water, no other drinks were provided, unless paid options.

There were two dining options included in the price: a restaurant and a buffet. The breakfast food was almost the same each day, so you might get bored of it after a while. We didn’t have lunch except on the first day. I liked that dinner offered more variety, although I wouldn’t say the meals were very tasty—some dishes were good, while others were not so much. Since there were three of us, we chose three different options each night to try as many dishes as possible. The menu changed every night, which was great. I think I liked the desserts the most—I can’t complain about any of them!

The Room & Mandatory Safety Drill

After lunch, we went to check out our room, which wasn’t ready until 2:30 PM. The room was actually quite spacious and different from what we had expected. According to the brochure, the room was supposed to be small, with one big bed and another smaller bed hanging on the wall. It was a pleasant surprise that it turned out to be much bigger, with a standard bed instead. There was enough space to store our luggage and move around comfortably. We chose a room with a window so we could enjoy the view outside.

A mandatory safety drill required us to bring a lifejacket and stay on the deck until it was completed. We waited there until everyone gathered, standing in lines of 5-6 people, with children at the front. It turned out that you could also complete the drill through the app, but we were told to come to the deck, where they scanned our cruise cards, and we had to wait until the drill was finished. I noticed an option in the app labeled 'Start the drill,' but since we were already on the deck, I assumed it was done. 

After returning to our room, the alarm went off, signaling everyone to return to the deck. Apparently, if you chose to start the drill through the app, you would receive a notification confirming completion and could leave earlier. We ended up standing there for quite a while, and it was really hot and uncomfortable.

Facilities & Activities

The ship was like a floating resort, offering something for everyone—whether it was a dip in the pool or Jacuzzis, a game of roulette in the casino, a night out at the disco, or enjoying the bars, theater, lounges, and various restaurants. Unfortunately, we couldn’t check out most of the attractions. Can you imagine trying to watch a show, only for your child to say it’s boring, or suddenly needing a drink, a bathroom break, or something else? 

Although there were plenty of activities designed to keep children entertained all day long, as a parent, that means you have to supervise them instead of enjoying all the amenities yourself. The swimming pool was full of kids playing, while the adults hid in the shade. The cruise was very kid-friendly, with activities galore and children welcome everywhere until 11 PM.

Challenges & Annoyances

Despite the abundance of activities, we faced some challenges that dampened the experience. One thing that sometimes annoyed us was the ship’s confusing layout. Navigating the numerous decks and facilities felt like a bit of a maze. Some staircases only went up to Deck 3, so we often had to backtrack and find another set of stairs. Why not take the elevator? It was notoriously slow, considering there were 3,000-4,000 people on the cruise!

The noise levels on the ship, particularly at night, made it difficult to get a good night's sleep. During all three nights, we could hear various banging sounds throughout the night. Maybe that’s just how the ship is, but we didn’t know this before boarding. So, if you decide to go, prepare yourself by bringing some earplugs.

Navigating the ship also proved tricky, with some stairways leading to dead ends and the slow elevators testing our patience. The lengthy boarding and disembarking process in Taiwan further tested our resolve. In hindsight, a bit more preparation and patience might have eased these frustrations.

Travel & Sightseeing

Arriving in Japan felt like stepping into a different world, with anticipation building as we finally set foot on land. However, the limited time we had to explore was a bit disheartening. By the time we disembarked, it was already late afternoon, leaving us with just a few precious hours to soak in the sights before having to return to the ship. While we made the most of our time, the rushed schedule made it difficult to fully immerse ourselves in the local culture. It was a reminder that cruising offers a taste of each destination, rather than a full experience.

When we arrived in Japan, the time difference was one hour, and we finally docked at 2 PM. However, the actual time we went ashore and began exploring was around 4 PM. The final boarding time was 9:30 PM, but since the process takes a while, we returned after 7 PM, just in time for dinner.

You can read more about how our days went and what we saw in my other posts.

Additional Information

Most communication on the cruise was in English, making it easier for international travelers. A mandatory safety drill required us to bring a lifejacket and stay on the deck until it was completed.

When it comes to payments on the cruise, you have the option to either pay in cash or use a credit card. Upon boarding, a deposit of 150 USD per person is taken via credit card. This is a requirement by the Japanese government, not the cruise line. Any unused funds from this deposit are returned after the trip, which adds a layer of convenience but also requires some initial planning.

Interestingly, our passports were taken away until the end of the trip, with copies provided for disembarkation in Japan. Even those not participating in shore excursions had to disembark, or they would not be able to do so on the second island.

Lastly, tipping costs can add up quickly. For our three-day cruise, tips totaled over 4,000 NT for three people.

We purchased an eSIM card for 3 days at 370 NT, but the onboard internet was weak, except on the top deck. The cruise offered internet and tours, but they were quite expensive and left little time for actual sightseeing, which was a bit disappointing for those hoping to explore more.

Final Thoughts

In conclusion, cruising offers a unique travel experience that blends relaxation with the thrill of exploration. However, it’s important to be aware of the challenges, from limited sightseeing opportunities to the potential for unexpected costs. For those who enjoy the journey as much as the destination, cruising can be an enjoyable adventure. Just be prepared for a few bumps along the way and approach it with a flexible mindset to make the most of your voyage.

We could definitely enjoy more without child. 

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Our Son Starting Elementary School - Comparing Schools in Taiwan and Poland

As the new school year approaches, I've been reflecting on the differences between the education systems in Taiwan and Poland, especially as our son is about to start elementary school in Taiwan. 

On August 24th (Saturday) we attended a parents' meeting at his school. It was a chance to meet his new teacher, bring in supplies, and learn about the school's procedures, like where to gather for pick-up—there are three gates to choose from. The meeting lasted about an hour and a half. While the parents were briefed on school renovations and upcoming plans, the kids stayed in the classroom. Unfortunately, our son didn't have any of his kindergarten friends in his new class. There are five classes in his grade, with each class having around 24-25 students.

The school year officially starts on August 30th, but for the first few days, school ends earlier, with pick-up at noon. A typical school day in Taiwan starts early - we need to arrive between 7:00 and 7:30 AM, with a 15-minute reading session before classes begin at 8:00 AM. Most days, school finishes at 12:20 PM, except on Tuesdays, when it extends until 3:30 PM. There's also an after-school daycare program available until 5:00 PM, though the exact cost hasn't been announced yet - it usually costs around NT$10,000 per semester, depending on the number of kids enrolled.

In addition to regular classes, the school offers various extracurricular activities, such as football, basketball, dance, karate, and ping pong. These classes come at an extra cost, typically NT$2,500 for 14 lessons. It can get quite expensive if you want your child to participate in a different activity each day.

Taiwanese students also face more exams and study more intensely than those in Poland. It's a different approach to education, and one that I'm still getting used to as we navigate this new chapter in our son's life. The school system here is more rigorous, but it also offers a lot of opportunities for growth and development.

See also: Costs of Public Elementary School in Taiwan

Language education is another key difference. In Taiwan, children aren't allowed to learn English until the 3rd or 4th grade, whereas in Poland, English is now taught starting in kindergarten. Polish students typically are studying a foreign language in the 1st grade, usually English. This early exposure gives Polish children a better chance of becoming proficient in multiple languages. A second foreign language is added later on. I learned English and German, and some schools may offer other choices, such as French or Spanish. I've heard that in bigger cities, they now offer languages like Vietnamese, Chinese, Japanese, and Korean, even in kindergartens, to include many foreign kids in the education. Due to the war, Ukrainian is probably also more common in Poland nowadays.

The school provides textbooks and some supplies, but we still had to buy items like crayons, pens, and the school uniform, which is only worn twice a week on exercise days. Another unique item the school requires is a special head cover, which doubles as a pillow for naps and can be used in case of an earthquake.

In terms of school supplies, in Poland, at least in the past, supplies like textbooks were not provided, and parents had to purchase them. While education in Poland is entirely free, in Taiwan, parents used to have to pay for a semester of schooling. However, this year, it seems that there is no tuition fee except for after-school programs, though we'll know more details later. Both countries offer subsidies for low-income families, ensuring that all children have access to education.

One of the most striking differences I've noticed between Taiwan and Poland is how children are picked up from school. In Taiwan, all kids are picked up at the school gate, either by their parents or by cram school teachers. Almost all kids attend some form of after-school class, whether at the school itself or at a cram school. This means that our son will also stay for these after-school sessions since I can't help him with his homework, and my husband works from home or returns late in the evening, often around 8 or 9 PM, and still has work to do.

In Taiwan, parents often work long hours, so it's common for grandparents to pick up the kids or for them to stay at cram schools until late in the evening, sometimes as late as 9 or 10 PM. 

Due to busy work schedules, many events in Taiwan are held on Saturdays, sometimes even at night, so that parents can attend. In Poland, parent-teacher meetings typically took place between 2-3 PM, as schools usually closed by 4 PM at the latest. However, in Taiwan, at least in kindergarten, these meetings were organized after classes, around 7 PM. I’m not sure about elementary school yet, but it's unlikely to be during the day since most parents wouldn’t be able to attend. The annoying part is that speeches and other activities often occupy Saturdays. While this might not happen frequently, it still takes up your free time, as you end up spending half or even the whole day at school. It’s also hard for me to imagine...

In Poland, except for Christmas events, which were typically held in the evening, and a few make-up days on Saturdays with very low attendance, nothing happened after school or on weekends - at least not when I was going to school. Even now, seeing my niece and nephew, their classes are short, and their weekends are occupied with other activities that their parents organize for them.

In contrast, my memories of elementary school in Poland are quite different. Classes usually started around 8:00 AM or later, and in the first grade, school often finished around noon. We didn't have after-school care or many extracurricular activities to choose from, especially in smaller towns. In cities, there might have been more options, but I'm not very familiar with those. In Poland, one parent often works part-time or stays at home, especially when kids are younger. This makes it challenging for single parents, as school hours are shorter, and the lack of after-school care can be a problem.

Parents enter the school and pick us up there. We typically waited at the entrance after changing our shoes and taking our jackets in the winter. In Taiwan, there is no special room for changing clothes like we had, and kids don’t change shoes in class but walk in with their outdoor shoes. Additionally, kids in Taiwan have to clean their classrooms and the school surroundings - something unimaginable in Poland!

Poland doesn’t have school uniforms in public schools. There was a time, around when I was 14 years old, when the government decided that we should wear uniforms in schools. It didn’t last long, only about a year, because the students were against it. After all, we weren’t little kids anymore; we were at an age where we wanted to express our individuality and have our own style. It felt really terrible, like a lack of freedom. The uniforms disappeared soon enough and were never brought back. In Taiwan, however, it's quite common to see kids in uniforms, specific to each school.

We really had plenty of freedom in school. We could dye our hair, and nobody cared much about our hairstyles. Later on, there was also less concern about our clothes - some might say that not everything was very school-appropriate, but nobody really got into trouble because of it. 

The first time I dyed my hair was in late elementary school. It was a kind of cherry color, as it was popular at the time, and both my mother and aunt were dyeing their hair. I did it during the summer holidays, but the color didn’t fade out by the time school started. The teachers didn’t have a problem with it. It was also common back then to lighten our hair to make it blonder and brighter. After that, I also often had purple shades in my hair, as it was a common color to find in dye. I like pink, but it’s not as easy to achieve on hair as purple.

Another aspect that stands out is the physical condition of the schools. I've noticed that schools in Taiwan appear more poorly maintained compared to those in Poland. The walls are often dirty and seem never to be repainted. In Poland, schools are more tidy and are repainted every 1-2 years. This difference extends to houses in Taiwan as well, where people often don’t repaint for 30-40 years, resulting in a more worn and aged appearance.

Overall, the differences between the two systems reflect broader cultural and societal values. While the Taiwanese system is more rigorous and exam-focused, the Polish system offers a more relaxed approach with earlier language education and a greater emphasis on maintaining the physical environment of schools. As we adapt to the Taiwanese way of doing things, I'm hopeful that our son will find his own path to success in this new environment.

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