Ishigaki Island And Getting Back Home

Travel Date: 2024/08/11 - 2024/08/14

Instead of the usual flight or ferry, we decided to embark on a less conventional adventure - cruising to Japan. Our journey took us to the vibrant streets of Naha City in Okinawa and the serene beauty of Ishigaki Island. Over the course of three nights and four days, we experienced the unique blend of relaxation and exploration that cruising offers. But as we soon discovered, this mode of travel comes with its own set of surprises.

Join me on a whirlwind 4-day, 3-night cruise to Japan’s serene Okinawa Prefecture, where the reality of just a few hours on land brought both memorable experiences and unique challenges. From the historic Shuri Castle in Okinawa to the tranquil yet limited offerings of Ishigaki Island, I navigated quiet streets, savored fresh sushi, and tackled the quirks of limited time ashore. These posts recount the highlights of our brief land excursions, the nostalgic charm of older taxis, the unexpected challenges of finding food, and the joys of traveling with family. Despite the short visits, each day unfolded with new discoveries that made the journey truly unforgettable.

Kicking Off the Day

After breakfast, our son was eager to play in the swimming pool. Despite his fear of water, he stayed in one spot, clinging to the ground, and his clothes amusingly changed color from blue to a pinkish hue. Traveling with a child truly requires patience!

Time wasn’t as tight on Ishigaki Island compared to the previous day. We disembarked before 2 PM and needed to be back on board by 8 PM. After a day of exploring, dining, and resting, we sailed back to Taiwan. We arrived at 8 AM, but disembarkation wasn’t until after 10 AM, extending the waiting time before finally leaving the cruise. In the flurry of disembarking, I unfortunately forgot to record a video as I had planned—a small regret on an otherwise peaceful and reflective day.

One of the most impressive aspects of Ishigaki Island—and Okinawa overall—was its cleanliness. The streets were spotless, with almost no garbage in sight, despite a lack of trash cans. Vending machines were conveniently available on nearly every street, making it easy to grab a drink. Unlike in Taiwan, drink shops aren’t a common sight in Japan.

We also made a quick stop at a local supermarket. It didn’t have as many options as the one on the previous island, but we still managed to find some drinks.

Ishigaki Island (石垣島)

Ishigaki Island is a serene and culturally rich island in Japan's Okinawa Prefecture, located southwest of Okinawa Hontō. It's part of the Yaeyama Islands and serves as a key transport and business hub in the region. The island is known for its lush landscapes, including Mount Omoto and Kabira Bay, both protected under the Iriomote-Ishigaki National Park.

With a population of around 47,000, Ishigaki blends Japanese and Taiwanese influences, evident in its unique cuisine, which features tropical fruits, spices, and the famous Ishigaki beef. The island is also historically significant, with sites like Miyaradunchi, an Important Cultural Property, reflecting its rich heritage.

Ishigaki is a popular destination for cruise ships, offering access to nearby islands and the Senkaku Islands, a point of territorial contention. The island’s natural beauty, cultural significance, and strategic importance make it a unique spot in Japan's southern archipelago.

Transportation

Getting around the island was straightforward but limited. We took a bus from the cruise terminal to the town center, which cost 200 yen per person, with children riding for free. The last bus back to the cruise ship departs at 7 PM, so timing your return is crucial. The roads felt very safe, drivers were polite, always waiting for pedestrians to cross, and they drove slowly. The absence of scooters made crossing the road feel unpressured and safe, unlike in Taiwan.

From the bus stop, it’s about a 10-minute walk to the popular shopping area. However, food options were sparse, and the shopping mall was small with limited offerings. Perhaps it’s because we’re used to seeing food and drink stalls everywhere in Taiwan, but it felt quite empty here. The first floor focused on food, while the second floor was dedicated to souvenirs.

Food & Shopping

Euglena Mall, formerly known as Ayapani Mall, is the southernmost arcade shopping street in Japan. It features two parallel streets covered with arcades and lined with souvenir shops and local stores. The Ishigaki City Public Market, situated between these streets, offers fresh produce and local specialties. The mall was renamed in 2010 after the naming rights were sold to Euglena, a company with a microalgae facility on the island, to help repay construction loans and fund maintenance.

One of the challenges we faced on Ishigaki Island was finding food. Many shops were closed, and the shopping options were limited. The popular tourist area didn’t have any large shops, and the shopping mall was small with few things available. Sushi train restaurants, which I had hoped to visit, were uncommon, and when we did find food, it was somewhat pricey.

Despite the challenges, we managed to order food with the help of a very friendly restaurant owner. Even though it took a long time due to language barriers and poor internet connectivity, the hospitality made up for the difficulty.

Communicating in English on Ishigaki Island proved to be difficult. The poor internet connection made it even harder, especially when trying to use translation apps. This added a layer of challenge to the overall experience, but with patience, we were able to get by.

Shrines

Our original plan was to visit a stalactite cave, but my husband thought it might be too crowded, so we decided to explore the town and visit its shrines instead.

In the 1500s, when Yaeyama farmers resisted the Shuri Royal Government, troops were dispatched to quell the rebellion. As the government’s ships returned to Naha Port, a shrine maiden prayed here for their safe voyage. At the sacred site, you’ll find a torii gate and a worship hall. Behind the stone gate lies a restricted sacred area, off-limits to visitors. The premises are adorned with towering ancient trees, each with a unique shape distinct from those found in Taiwan. There was also an animal in the bushes that startled me when it jumped as I approached, though I didn’t catch what it was.

Our next stop was Gongen-do and Tōrin-ji, which were established simultaneously in 1614 to encourage the construction of temples and shrines. The deities enshrined here are based on the Kumano Gongen, marking the beginning of temple and shrine construction in Yaeyama and representing a valuable cultural heritage.

Tōrin-ji (桃林寺) is a historic Zen Buddhist temple located in Ishigaki City, Okinawa Prefecture. Belonging to the Myōshinji branch of the Rinzai school, the temple is also known by its mountain name, Nankai-san. The principal deity enshrined here is Kannon Bosatsu (Avalokitesvara), and it holds the distinction of being the oldest Buddhist temple in the Yaeyama Islands.

Tōrin-ji was founded in 1614 during the reign of King Shō Nei of the Ryukyu Kingdom, following the advice of the Satsuma Domain to construct religious sites in the Yaeyama region. The temple was established by the Zen monk Kan'ō Saidō, who brought with him a bronze statue of Kannon and three sacred mirrors as offerings. The adjacent Gongen-dō, a shrine dedicated to Kumano Gongen, was also founded at this time.

The temple's main hall initially had a thatched roof, but it was replaced with tiles in 1694, and the Gongen-dō followed suit in 1703. Both structures were severely damaged by a tsunami in 1771 but were subsequently rebuilt in 1772 and 1786, respectively. Notably, the temple was involved in a historical dispute in 1782 when a Shingon temple from Kagoshima attempted to convert Tōrin-ji to Shingon Buddhism, but the Ryukyu government rejected this, affirming its Zen Buddhist identity.

The current main hall was reconstructed in 1968, following various repairs and rebuilds over the centuries due to natural disasters and other events.

Gongen-dō, dedicated to Kumano Gongen, has undergone several restorations, with the most recent significant repair completed in 2008 after damage from Typhoon 13 in 2006. The shrine's copper mirrors, cast in 1772, are the oldest of their kind in Okinawa.

The temple's gate is guarded by two wooden Nio statues carved in 1737, which are the oldest wooden sculptures in Okinawa. These statues were washed away by the 1771 tsunami but were later recovered and restored.

Final Day on the Cruise

Our last morning on the cruise came with a few unexpected changes. We woke up at 7 AM, knowing that the ship would dock at 8 AM. Before we left our room, we received a phone call letting us know that our passports were ready for pickup—a reassuring step as our journey neared its end.

After picking up our passports, we headed for breakfast. The buffet closed earlier than usual, around 9 AM, with cleaning taking place immediately afterward, cutting our breakfast time short. As we waited for our scheduled disembarkation time of 10:40 AM, we also noticed that the toilets were being cleaned and were unavailable for use until we left the ship, which was a bit inconvenient.

Despite heading down a bit earlier, passing through customs and retrieving our luggage took longer than anticipated. By the time we finally walked to the car park and were ready to head back home, it was nearing noon. The entire process, from waking up to driving away, highlighted the patience needed on the final day of a cruise, especially when small inconveniences arise.