November 28, 2024

Why Taiwan Isn’t Always the Foreigner-Friendly Place It Claims to Be

About a month ago, on a random Wednesday, I met a woman by accident in the park. Our kids started playing together, and we started a conversation. I was happy to meet someone who spoke English since my Chinese is pretty basic. While I can understand much more than I can speak, it’s still a challenge to hold a proper conversation.
Honestly, it’s rare to find someone to chat with here. It’s such a contrast to when we lived in Tainan, as I knew all my neighbors, and everyone was warm and friendly. Here, it feels like I’m surrounded by rich, cold people who don’t bother to interact (sorry, not sorry).

We share some similar thoughts, which probably explains why we’ve met every Wednesday since then, chatting for two or more hours each time. I don’t have many chances to talk with anyone, so I can’t be too picky. But there’s one thing - she talks a lot about China.
At first, I wasn’t interested. But after seeing all the pictures and videos she showed me, I have to admit that China, or at least Nanjing, looks incredibly modern and convenient. She lived there for three years and constantly talks about how much she wants to go back. They moved back to Taiwan like 2-3 months ago. 

I complain about Taiwan too, but she takes it to another level. She can barely find anything positive about living here. It was nice though to hear a local also complains about the traffic, the absurdly high housing prices or greedy landlords evading taxes and that nothing in here is worth it's price. She said Taiwan has stopped progressing and is stuck in the past.
I was fine listening to her talk about China until today. That’s when the conversation changed into politics, which was far more draining than hearing about China. Turns out, she’s a KMT supporter and believes the DPP is destroying Taiwan, brainwashing people into thinking China is the enemy.
Today, I barely spoke, listening for 2.5 hours, wishing I had an excuse to leave. But the kids were having a great time.

Why do I have to discuss politics in a country that isn’t even mine? Taiwan doesn’t exactly make foreigners feel welcome, as shown by the recent referendum rejecting citizenship for long-term residents. Apparently, giving foreigners citizenship is seen as a financial and security risk. Of course, that rule doesn’t apply to wealthy individuals who can bring money into the country as they can become Taiwanese without giving up their original citizenship.
The government claims Taiwan follows a strict single-citizenship policy, yet many Taiwanese hold dual citizenship because other countries don’t make it such a big deal. 
For example, in Poland, if you’re married to a Polish citizen, you can apply for citizenship after just two years of living there, provided you pass a B1 Polish language proficiency test.

Nowadays, I see more and more people from diverse backgrounds - Mexican, Korean, Chinese, even African becoming Polish. I’ve come across videos of them speaking Polish, and I admire how fluent they are, often with barely any accent. It’s impressive as Polish isn't the easiest language to learn.
Meanwhile, after living here for eight years, even if I stayed until the end of my life, I’d still be considered a foreigner.
I’ve heard about people who live here for 20 or 30 years, and they’re still nothing more than foreigners.

Anyway, this was the first time I met a Taiwanese person who openly loves China so much. It is… overwhelming, to say the least. 
I agree with many points about Taiwan, but there are also good things about living here. However, I can’t compare it to China because I’ve never lived there. The only comparison I can make is with Poland, and maybe that’s why our perspectives are different.  

I don’t necessarily want Taiwanese citizenship - I don’t feel Taiwanese and don’t think I ever will. People here don’t make it any easier, as foreigners are rarely viewed as potential citizens. Compared to Poland, Taiwan is far less accepting of diversity. In Poland, if you have a different skin color but say you’re Polish, most people won’t question it.  

It doesn’t bother me personally, since I’m not Taiwanese and don’t want to be. But for our son, who currently only has Taiwanese citizenship, it’s a different story. What’s ironic is that he’s often called a “foreigner” not just by kids but by adults too. He’s mixed, but no one seems to assume he’s Taiwanese. I often hear comments like, “Your son’s Chinese is so good!” or “He doesn’t have any accent!” I mean, why would he have an accent or struggle with Chinese? He goes to a public school like everyone else. Yes, he also speaks English and Polish, and I’m focusing more on maintaining those languages since he spends most of his day immersed in Chinese.  
It’s frustrating that people here don’t seem to believe someone who doesn’t look exactly like them can be Taiwanese.  

One of the biggest challenges of being a foreign parent in Taiwan is how few rights I have when it comes to my child. Whether it’s dealing with the school, the hospital, or government matters, I can’t do much without my husband. I can’t even apply for my son’s passport - yet my husband can do it with just his signature.  
Think about how easy it would be for someone to kidnap a child if only one parent’s consent is needed for something as important as issuing a passport, with no requirement for the other parent’s approval. For most things related to our son, I can’t handle them on my own because both parents’ signatures are required for important documents—but when it comes to other issues, I’m often excluded entirely.  

I’ve mentioned this before, but maybe some people haven’t read it, so I’ll remind you: there are many things foreigners can’t do here simply because the paperwork is considered too troublesome for the staff.  
One time, we went to the bank to open an account for me. My husband called ahead to confirm what documents I needed, and the bank was fully aware that I was a foreigner and that my Chinese isn’t perfect. They didn’t seem to mind.  
We spent about two hours filling out forms, signing everything, and providing all the required documents. Then, we ran into a problem. I’m not entirely sure what the issue was, but the explanation was simple: “We don’t do this for foreigners because they don’t stay long.”
The same goes for opening an online bank account - you are immediately rejected.

I mean, how does that make sense? I can’t just move out the next day. If I didn’t plan on staying here longer, why would I even bother opening a bank account?
I don’t understand why so many foreigners would want to become Taiwanese, especially when just as many, after spending a few years here, end up moving back to their home countries because of the many absurdities they encounter.

November 23, 2024

Exploring the Historic Tainan District Court: A Glimpse into Taiwan's Judicial Heritage

Travel Date: 2024/11/09

It just so happened that we found ourselves back in Tainan, and to my delight, Christmas decorations were already set up in front of the Shin Kong Mitsukoshi Store. I haven't seen any other shopping malls quite ready for Christmas yet, but this one is always the most beautifully decorated, bringing so much joy to my heart. 

Since we were already in the area, we decided to check out Blueprint Creative Park and the Tainan Judicial Museum. The museum visit took longer than expected - it's actually quite spacious inside! The volunteers there are incredibly friendly, and we even met one who, coincidentally, comes from my husband's hometown. Not just the same town, but even the same street! He had moved to Tainan about 20 years ago. Lucky him, I thought - I wish I could (once again) live in Tainan. 
Living up north now, the thing I miss the most is the food and the warm weather. Just recently, Miaoli had strong winds and temperatures dropped to around 13°C, making people break out their winter jackets. But in Tainan, we were greeted with a balmy 30°C, and I happily wore shorts once again. It's amazing how a 200 km distance can make such a huge difference in Taiwan's climate.

Even though we lived in Tainan before and have passed by these attractions many times, we never visited them until now. That’s the thing about Tainan - it’s easy to get swept up in its rich history and vibrant culture, and there’s always something new to discover. Honestly, one day is never enough to truly experience everything this city has to offer.

At the Judicial Museum, I even received a birthday gift! In November, they had a special offer: if you show your ID at the gift shop and your birthday falls within the month, you get a small present. I was delighted to receive some cookies. Somehow, everything in Tainan makes me happy - maybe it’s the warm weather or the friendly people, but it definitely feels like a world apart from living up north.

For a closer look at the festive Christmas decorations, check out my separate post LINK

Tainan District Court (臺南地方法院) 

Built in 1914 during the Japanese occupation of Taiwan, the Tainan District Court was designed to serve as a major judicial office in southern Taiwan. At the time, Taiwan’s legal system was undergoing significant changes, shifting from traditional local governance to a more modern court system modeled after Japan's legal structure. The court was part of the larger effort to modernize Taiwan's judicial system, which included establishing local, appellate, and high courts. 

Interestingly, the original location of the court was at the former site of Qing Dynasty government offices, specifically the Wanshou Palace and the Confucian Temple area. However, due to growing demands for a more suitable space, the Japanese authorities decided to build a new courthouse. The chosen site was once the residence of historian Lian Heng, making it a place rich in local heritage.






Architecture

The Tainan District Court building is a striking example of Western classical architecture infused with local elements. Designed by architects from the Japanese Governor-General’s Office, it features a blend of neoclassical and Baroque styles, which were popular during the early 20th century. The main structure is built with red bricks and has a distinctive asymmetrical design that sets it apart from other buildings of that era.

The court's most iconic feature is its grand facade with towering columns, a Baroque-style dome, and an intricate pediment. The interior is just as impressive, with a spacious lobby adorned with twelve classical columns, elaborate woodwork, and a central dome with a skylight that bathes the room in natural light. The building was constructed using the finest materials available at the time, making it a symbol of Tainan’s status as a key administrative center.







A Museum of Judicial History

The Tainan District Court is not only significant for its architecture but also for the pivotal events that took place within its walls. One of the most notable events was the trial of Yu Qingfang and his associates in 1915, following the Xilai An Incident (西來庵事件), an anti-Japanese uprising led by Taiwanese locals. The courtroom where the trial was held became a symbol of colonial rule and resistance, marking a poignant chapter in Taiwan’s fight for justice.
During the later years of the Japanese occupation, as the court’s jurisdiction expanded, it established branches in Chiayi and Kaohsiung to accommodate the growing need for judicial services.

After World War II, the court was handed over to the Kuomintang government, which renamed it the Tainan District Court (臺灣臺南地方法院). Despite the changes in administration, the building remained a vital part of Taiwan's judicial landscape. However, by the late 20th century, the old courthouse had become too small and outdated for modern legal proceedings.

In 2001, the court moved to a new, modern facility in Anping District, allowing the historic building to be preserved as a museum. The old courthouse underwent extensive restoration from 2009 to 2016, led by a team of architects dedicated to maintaining its original charm while updating it for public use.
In recognition of its historical significance, the Tainan District Court was designated a National Historic Site by Taiwan's Ministry of the Interior in 1991. Later, it was converted into the Judicial Museum in 2016. This transformation was part of a larger effort to preserve Taiwan's colonial-era architecture and educate the public about the country's legal history.





Visiting the Museum

Visitors to the Judicial Museum can explore exhibits that showcase Taiwan's judicial development, including rare historical documents, old court verdicts, and artifacts that provide a glimpse into the island’s legal past. The museum also hosts special exhibitions on topics like the evolution of Taiwan’s legal system, landmark court cases, and the role of law in society. It's a great spot for anyone interested in the intersection of history, law, and architecture.

One of the highlights at the Judicial Museum is the interactive courtroom exhibit. You can dress up in historical costumes, like a judge or prosecutor from past eras, making it a fun, immersive experience. 
There’s also a detention room where you can snap some hilarious photos. They’ve put up funny crime boards with playful labels like “Too Handsome”, ”Three Treasures” or “Love Scammer,” among many others. It’s a lighthearted twist on the serious atmosphere, adding a bit of humor to your visit!

Tickets: Free
Opening Time: Tuesday to Sunday, 9AM - 5PM
Guided Tours: Free guided tours are available to introduce visitors to the building. Groups of up to 10 people can access the catwalk beneath the roof.
Exhibits: Ancient legal documents, early verdicts, historical uniforms worn by judges and lawyers.
Special Exhibitions: The museum frequently hosts themed exhibitions, which delve deeper into specific aspects of Taiwan’s judicial history.







Cookies as a Birthday gift

Blueprint Cultural & Creative Park (藍晒圖文創園區)

If you ever find yourself exploring Tainan, one destination you shouldn’t miss is the Blueprint Cultural & Creative Park. Opened on December 12, 2015, this charming cultural park offers a unique blend of art, history, and creativity. Despite its modest size, it’s packed with experiences that will delight art enthusiasts and curious travelers alike.

What is a Blueprint?

In traditional engineering, a blueprint (藍圖) is a detailed technical drawing, typically used in construction and design projects. These plans are characterized by their iconic blue background and crisp white lines. Created through a special photo-reproductive process, blueprints are durable, easy to replicate, and resistant to fading. 

However, in the Chinese language, the term "藍圖" has a more poetic connotation—it’s often used metaphorically to represent a vision, dream, or strategic plan for the future. This dual meaning is beautifully embodied in the park’s concept, blending the literal and symbolic uses of blueprints to inspire creativity.

The Origins of Blueprint Park

The story of Blueprint Park began with an iconic piece of street art by architect Liu Guo-Tsang (劉國滄) in 2004. His artwork, titled “The Ruins Blueprint” (殘屋藍圖), transformed an old wall on Haian Road into a striking blue visual that resembled the architectural plans of a traditional house. This piece quickly became a beloved photo spot for both locals and tourists, adding to Tainan’s vibrant urban art scene.

Sadly, in February 2014, the wall was reclaimed by its owner, and the artwork was painted over. In a bid to preserve this iconic piece, the Tainan City Government invited Liu Guo-Tsang to recreate his masterpiece at a new location. By December 5, 2014, a new 3D blueprint installation was unveiled, laying the foundation for what would become the Blueprint Cultural & Creative Park.

Blueprint Park has repurposed old dormitory buildings, turning them into a lively cultural hub. Here’s what you can expect:
Here, you can browse through stalls featuring local artists, handmade crafts, and unique souvenirs. There are rotating displays of contemporary and traditional art, celebrating both local talent and global influences. After a day of exploring, unwind at one of the cozy cafes or eateries. Whether you're looking for a quick snack or a leisurely meal, there's something for everyone.










November 18, 2024

2024 Christmas in Tainan


Travel Date: 2024/11/09

It just so happened that we found ourselves back in Tainan, and to my delight, Christmas decorations were already set up in front of the Shin Kong Mitsukoshi Store. I haven't seen any other shopping malls quite ready for Christmas yet, but this one is always the most beautifully decorated, bringing so much joy to my heart. 

Since we were already in the area, we decided to check out Blueprint Creative Park and the Tainan Judicial Museum. The museum visit took longer than expected - it's actually quite spacious inside! The volunteers there are incredibly friendly, and we even met one who, coincidentally, comes from my husband's hometown. Not just the same town, but even the same street! He had moved to Tainan about 20 years ago. Lucky him, I thought - I wish I could (once again) live in Tainan. 
Living up north now, the thing I miss the most is the food and the warm weather. Just recently, Miaoli had strong winds and temperatures dropped to around 13°C, making people break out their winter jackets. But in Tainan, we were greeted with a balmy 30°C, and I happily wore shorts once again. It's amazing how a 200 km distance can make such a huge difference in Taiwan's climate.

Even though we lived in Tainan before and have passed by these attractions many times, we never visited them until now. That’s the thing about Tainan - it’s easy to get swept up in its rich history and vibrant culture, and there’s always something new to discover. Honestly, one day is never enough to truly experience everything this city has to offer.

At the Judicial Museum, I even received a birthday gift! In November, they had a special offer: if you show your ID at the gift shop and your birthday falls within the month, you get a small present. I was delighted to receive some cookies. Somehow, everything in Tainan makes me happy - maybe it’s the warm weather or the friendly people, but it definitely feels like a world apart from living up north.

I introduced the Blueprint Creative Park and Judicial Museum in a separate post LINK