Travel Date: 2025/10/10
The last of the long weekends couldn’t go without a little trip. This time we stayed in Miaoli and drove around the mountains — I’ve honestly had enough of beaches this year with all the rain and typhoons passing by, so mountain scenery felt like the perfect change.
We revisited Lingxia Cave (靈霞洞), a truly unique site with its Baroque-style archway built right into the rock face. Our second stop was Shuilian Cave (水簾洞), another place we had visited before, but only at night. This was actually our first time seeing it clearly in daylight — and it didn’t disappoint! Still, I’d also recommend coming here during firefly season (around April and May), as the area is known for having plenty of them lighting up the surroundings.
Since it wasn’t far from Nanzhuang, we decided to drive there in search of some persimmons — and it was absolutely worth it. We bought 13 large, perfectly ripe ones for just 200 NT, which felt like such a deal considering that in city shops, a single one can cost 50–60 NT!
Lion’s Head Mountain (獅頭山) – A Sacred Mountain Between Miaoli and Hsinchu
Designated a Provincial Scenic Area in 1993, Lion’s Head Mountain now forms part of the Sanshan National Scenic Area, which also includes Emei Lake and Beipu Old Street. The entire zone spans over 24,000 hectares and offers a blend of Buddhist heritage, Hakka culture, and natural beauty.
There are four main hiking trails, most beginning near the Shitoushan Visitor Center on the Hsinchu side. The best known is the Shishan Historic Trail (獅山古道), which crosses from Hsinchu to Miaoli, connecting a chain of temples such as Yuanguang Temple and Quanhua Temple.
The trails are well-marked and moderate in difficulty, making them ideal for casual hikers. On weekends, you’ll often see local hikers — especially the elderly — walking peacefully between temples, incense drifting through the forest air.
Many of these temples are uniquely built into the landscape — partly within caves, beneath cliffs, or along rock walls — creating a mystical and peaceful atmosphere.
If you visit around mealtime, don’t miss the vegetarian kitchen at Quanhua Temple, where monks serve simple Buddhist meals by donation at 6:30 a.m., noon, and 5:30 p.m.
Nestled on the border of Miaoli and Hsinchu counties, Lion’s Head Mountain (獅頭山) may rise only 492 meters high, but it’s one of Taiwan’s most culturally and spiritually significant peaks. Covered in dense forests, rocky cliffs, caves, and ancient temples, the mountain offers a serene retreat where nature and religion intertwine.
In 1892, a Buddhist monk named Pujie from Taoyuan discovered human bones inside a cave while exploring the area. To honor the deceased, he requested the construction of a temple — what became Shiyan Dong (獅巖洞) or Lion Cave Temple, near the mountain’s peak, whose shape resembles a lion’s head. Later renamed Yuanguang Temple (元光寺), it became the spiritual core that inspired the building of many more temples on the mountain, including Quanhua Temple (勸化堂) on the Miaoli side.
Lingxia Cave (靈霞洞)
One of the most fascinating spots is Lingxia Cave (靈霞洞), a natural stone cave temple built in 1917. Its distinctive Baroque-style archway hides a small sanctuary enshrining Sakyamuni Buddha, Kāla Bodhisattva, Skanda Bodhisattva, Ananda, and Avalokitesvara Bodhisattva. The inscriptions “山空” (mountain emptiness) and “水深” (water depth) carved beside the entrance were added by the monk Dexin in 1932.
In spring, the temple is often surrounded by a sea of clouds, and sunlight filtering through the mist paints the rock faces in glowing, shifting colors — an otherworldly sight that perfectly matches the temple’s name and spirit.
Shuilian Cave (水簾洞)
For an easy and scenic walk, try the Shuilian Cave Trail, located near the Lion Mountain Visitor Center. The short, paved path leads to Fanyin Temple, a small sanctuary built in 1902 within the largest natural cave on the mountain. A thin waterfall flows down the rock face like a curtain of water — giving the cave its name, Shuilian, meaning “water curtain.”
The trail feels like entering another world — filled with the sounds of trickling water, birdsong, and rustling leaves. Pebble Creek nearby is home to fish, dragonflies, and birds, making it a peaceful stop for reflection.
It’s also a popular spot for firefly watching during the season around April and May.
Nanzhuang Old Street (南庄老街)
Nanzhuang Old Street has a strong Hakka nostalgic flavor, it attracts many tourists during holidays. The main attractions include Yongchang Temple, Old Post Office, Nogizaki, Osmanthus Lane, and Washing Pit. The traditional old street is centered around Zhongzheng Road, with numerous businesses on both sides.
The laundry pit, located at the end of Guihua Lane, was a place where local residents used to wash clothes, vegetables, and fruits in the early years. The stone washboard above it preserves relics of the Hakka people's diligent and thrifty life in the past.
Nanzhuang's development dates back to the Qing Dynasty, and during the Japanese era, it was a mining area for camphor and coal. Following the severe damage caused by the 1935 earthquake, the Japanese were commissioned to plan the reconstruction project, resulting in the landscape of two-story Japanese-style wooden buildings on both sides of Zhongzheng Road.
Apart from admiring the characteristic buildings from the Japanese colonial era, you must try the old street's specialty, osmanthus brew, and special Hakka delicacies. The suspension bridge and Nanzhuang Waterfront Park are also excellent places to enjoy the beautiful scenery of Nanzhuang.
Osmanthus Alley of Nanzhuang Old Street is renowned far and wide and is a must-visit for tourists. Various snacks, delicacies, and osmanthus meals are sold in the simple and elegant alleys, allowing tourists to experience the guest house style.
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