We clearly arrived ahead of peak season this time. Last year, when we visited in early January, the bald cypress trees were already nearly bare. This year we went in mid-November, expecting some autumn colors—but the trees were still completely green. Still, it was a warm, free Sunday, so we decided to take a spontaneous trip.
Honestly, this autumn has felt unusually hot. Wearing shorts in northern Taiwan in November still surprises me. We do get sudden cool days—sometimes a dramatic near 20°C drop—but they usually only last a day or two before the warm weather returns.
If you’re searching for a peaceful place to enjoy late-autumn and winter scenery, the bald cypress forest in Sanwan is a beautiful choice — and it’s completely free to visit.
From November to January, the trees normally shift into warm tones of gold, yellow, and orange-red. When the timing is right, the reflections in the water look like a scene from a painting.
More than 200 bald cypress trees surround the lake, with paths weaving between them. You can also climb up to a few viewing spots on the hills for a higher perspective. Since there wasn’t much color yet this November, we stayed at the lower paths and enjoyed walking among the trees.
The lake is full of ducks—several species, actually.
The access road is very narrow—only enough space for one car—so take it slow. Most people leave their cars at the entrance of the alley and walk the remaining path. It’s about a 30–40 minute round trip, and there are some slopes, but the trail itself is lovely and relaxing.
There is a small parking area closer to the cypress trees, though reaching it can take longer because passing oncoming vehicles is tricky. Riding a scooter is much more convenient.
If you prefer not to walk, private cars near the alley entrance offer shuttle rides. This is especially helpful for families with young kids or elderly travelers.
Group tours are also available, but buses can only stop by the main road, so there’s still a 1-km walk to the site.
The last of the long weekends couldn’t go without a little trip. This time we stayed in Miaoli and drove around the mountains — I’ve honestly had enough of beaches this year with all the rain and typhoons passing by, so mountain scenery felt like the perfect change.
We revisited Lingxia Cave (靈霞洞), a truly unique site with its Baroque-style archway built right into the rock face. Our second stop was Shuilian Cave (水簾洞), another place we had visited before, but only at night. This was actually our first time seeing it clearly in daylight — and it didn’t disappoint! Still, I’d also recommend coming here during firefly season (around April and May), as the area is known for having plenty of them lighting up the surroundings.
Since it wasn’t far from Nanzhuang, we decided to drive there in search of some persimmons — and it was absolutely worth it. We bought 13 large, perfectly ripe ones for just 200 NT, which felt like such a deal considering that in city shops, a single one can cost 50–60 NT!
Lion’s Head Mountain (獅頭山) – A Sacred Mountain Between Miaoli and Hsinchu
Designated a Provincial Scenic Area in 1993, Lion’s Head Mountain now forms part of the Sanshan National Scenic Area, which also includes Emei Lake and Beipu Old Street. The entire zone spans over 24,000 hectares and offers a blend of Buddhist heritage, Hakka culture, and natural beauty.
There are four main hiking trails, most beginning near the Shitoushan Visitor Center on the Hsinchu side. The best known is the Shishan Historic Trail (獅山古道), which crosses from Hsinchu to Miaoli, connecting a chain of temples such as Yuanguang Temple and Quanhua Temple.
The trails are well-marked and moderate in difficulty, making them ideal for casual hikers. On weekends, you’ll often see local hikers — especially the elderly — walking peacefully between temples, incense drifting through the forest air.
Many of these temples are uniquely built into the landscape — partly within caves, beneath cliffs, or along rock walls — creating a mystical and peaceful atmosphere.
If you visit around mealtime, don’t miss the vegetarian kitchen at Quanhua Temple, where monks serve simple Buddhist meals by donation at 6:30 a.m., noon, and 5:30 p.m.
Nestled on the border of Miaoli and Hsinchu counties, Lion’s Head Mountain (獅頭山) may rise only 492 meters high, but it’s one of Taiwan’s most culturally and spiritually significant peaks. Covered in dense forests, rocky cliffs, caves, and ancient temples, the mountain offers a serene retreat where nature and religion intertwine.
In 1892, a Buddhist monk named Pujie from Taoyuan discovered human bones inside a cave while exploring the area. To honor the deceased, he requested the construction of a temple — what became Shiyan Dong (獅巖洞) or Lion Cave Temple, near the mountain’s peak, whose shape resembles a lion’s head. Later renamed Yuanguang Temple (元光寺), it became the spiritual core that inspired the building of many more temples on the mountain, including Quanhua Temple (勸化堂) on the Miaoli side.
Lingxia Cave (靈霞洞)
One of the most fascinating spots is Lingxia Cave (靈霞洞), a natural stone cave temple built in 1917. Its distinctive Baroque-style archway hides a small sanctuary enshrining Sakyamuni Buddha, Kāla Bodhisattva, Skanda Bodhisattva, Ananda, and Avalokitesvara Bodhisattva. The inscriptions “山空” (mountain emptiness) and “水深” (water depth) carved beside the entrance were added by the monk Dexin in 1932.
In spring, the temple is often surrounded by a sea of clouds, and sunlight filtering through the mist paints the rock faces in glowing, shifting colors — an otherworldly sight that perfectly matches the temple’s name and spirit.
Shuilian Cave (水簾洞)
For an easy and scenic walk, try the Shuilian Cave Trail, located near the Lion Mountain Visitor Center. The short, paved path leads to Fanyin Temple, a small sanctuary built in 1902 within the largest natural cave on the mountain. A thin waterfall flows down the rock face like a curtain of water — giving the cave its name, Shuilian, meaning “water curtain.”
The trail feels like entering another world — filled with the sounds of trickling water, birdsong, and rustling leaves. Pebble Creek nearby is home to fish, dragonflies, and birds, making it a peaceful stop for reflection.
It’s also a popular spot for firefly watching during the season around April and May.
Nanzhuang Old Street (南庄老街)
Nanzhuang Old Street has a strong Hakka nostalgic flavor, it attracts many tourists during holidays. The main attractions include Yongchang Temple, Old Post Office, Nogizaki, Osmanthus Lane, and Washing Pit. The traditional old street is centered around Zhongzheng Road, with numerous businesses on both sides.
The laundry pit, located at the end of Guihua Lane, was a place where local residents used to wash clothes, vegetables, and fruits in the early years. The stone washboard above it preserves relics of the Hakka people's diligent and thrifty life in the past.
Nanzhuang's development dates back to the Qing Dynasty, and during the Japanese era, it was a mining area for camphor and coal. Following the severe damage caused by the 1935 earthquake, the Japanese were commissioned to plan the reconstruction project, resulting in the landscape of two-story Japanese-style wooden buildings on both sides of Zhongzheng Road.
Apart from admiring the characteristic buildings from the Japanese colonial era, you must try the old street's specialty, osmanthus brew, and special Hakka delicacies. The suspension bridge and Nanzhuang Waterfront Park are also excellent places to enjoy the beautiful scenery of Nanzhuang.
Osmanthus Alley of Nanzhuang Old Street is renowned far and wide and is a must-visit for tourists. Various snacks, delicacies, and osmanthus meals are sold in the simple and elegant alleys, allowing tourists to experience the guest house style.
Looking for a magical destination that’s perfect for fall and winter? The hidden gem of bald cypress trees in Sanwan, Miaoli, is a must-visit spot that has recently gained popularity! With free admission and breathtaking lakeside scenery, this place is ideal for photos.
From November to January, the bald cypress trees in Sanwan transform into stunning shades of golden yellow and orange-red.
If you drive, be mindful of the narrow road leading to the Bald Cypress Forest. It’s only wide enough for one car.
You can park at the entrance of the alley and walk to reach the area. While the round trip takes about 30 to 40 minutes and can be a bit of a workout due to slopes, the scenic path makes it worthwhile.
There is actually a parking area close to the trees, but it might take a while to drive there since the narrow road makes it difficult when encountering cars coming from the opposite direction. It’s a lot easier if you’re driving a scooter.
We also met a friendly cat! I saw people petting it, so we went over to pet it too. As a big cat lover, I just couldn’t pass by without giving it some attention!
For those who prefer convenience, private cars at the alley entrance offer shuttle rides for NT$50 per trip. This is especially helpful for families with elderly members or young children.
While group tours are also available, tour buses can only stop at the main road, so you’ll still need to walk a little over 1 km to reach the destination.
Don’t miss the small stop near the entrance, where you can find fresh local agricultural products for sale - perfect souvenirs to take home after admiring the beautiful bald cypress trees.
There are over 200 bald cypress trees in this area. You can walk among the trees as well as go up the hills to see the area from elevated platforms. Since there weren’t many colorful trees left, we skipped going up and only walked the paths among the trees.
There are also many ducks of several different species swimming around the lake. One particular duck caught our attention because it had longer feathers on its head, it looked like it had a funny hairdo!
The best viewing season is from November to January, but unfortunately, when we went there on January 4th, the trees are already almost bare. The scenery looked much better in the photos we saw just a few days ago. However, when we arrived, we learned that a cold front two days earlier caused the trees to turn a rusted orange overnight, making most of the leaves fall to the ground.
So, if you’re planning to visit this January, you may only see empty trees by now. But don’t forget to come back at the end of this year for a better experience!
We drove to Sanwan in Miaoli to see the tung trees in bloom. Along the way, we passed by Yongheshan Water Reservoir, and we noticed that the water level was lower than it was a few months ago. The place we visited was not well-known, so there weren't many people there. However, driving a car on the narrow roads was a bit challenging.
The Hakka Tung Blossom Festival started in 2002 as a way to promote Hakka culture. Every April to May, many people travel to the mountains to enjoy the beautiful sight of the blooming flowers. There were two trails, but unfortunately, one of them, which seemed to have more trees, was closed.
Tung trees, also known as tung oil trees or China wood-oil trees, were originally grown in the Yangtze River region of China. They were brought to Taiwan during the Japanese occupation. The majority of tung trees can be found in the northern part of Taiwan, particularly in Miaoli, Hsinchu, and Taoyuan, where they were planted by the Hakka people.
The seeds of these trees are used to produce tung oil, which traditionally was used in lamps. Tung oil is also an ingredient in paint, varnish, and caulk. It is known for its ability to protect wood furniture and make it waterproof. Additionally, tung oil is used in the production of Meinong's oil-paper umbrellas, which is an enduring Hakka craft.
The use of tung oil can be traced back to 400 years B.C., and it was mentioned in the writings of Confucius. Although the demand for tung oil is declining, it still holds a significant place in Hakka culture as one of their popular trees.
Hi! I'm Żaneta, a Polish girl living in Taiwan :) I love cooking and baking. I have both a travel blog and a cooking blog, as well as a YouTube channel. You're welcome to find me on my social media - feel free to ask questions or just chat! ~
