History of tea in North of Taiwan
During the 1860s, Tamsui was established as a harbor, which facilitated the importation of tea varieties, tea masters, and workers from Fujian, China by foreign businessmen. Tea leaves started to be grown in the northern part of Taiwan, particularly in Hsinchu, on a large scale. In 1876, the Qing Dynasty encouraged the cultivation of tea trees. Liu Ming-chuan, Taiwan's governor from 1885 to 1891, further supported the tea industry and implemented improvements in the production process.
During the Qing Dynasty, tea grown in Taoyuan and Hsinchu was transported by porters to Daxi and Hsinchu, and then carried through river and sea transportation to Tamsui and Dadaocheng. The introduction of railways during the Japanese occupation period facilitated tea transport.
During the Japanese era, the government focused on improving tea varieties and production techniques, providing support and protection to the tea industry. This included establishing laboratories, schools, model tea gardens, and offering subsidies for the construction of tea factories and facilities. As a result, the tea industry in Hsinchu expanded significantly. Many small tea businesses merged into medium and large tea companies, leading to improvements in tea production and quality. Notable tea factories, such as the Jiang Family in Beipu and the Lo Family in Guansi, emerged during this period. The Formosa Black Tea Co. Ltd., founded by the Lo Family in Guansi in 1937, became the second-largest Taiwanese tea manufacturer during the Japanese colonial era.
After the end of World War II in 1945, Taiwan's tea industry, which had been severely affected by the war, experienced a revival. While tea-producing countries were still recovering from the war's impact, Taiwan's tea quickly gained a favorable position in the global export market. This period was considered the golden age of tea. However, with the resumption of tea production in countries such as India, Sri Lanka, and Java, Taiwan's black tea faced increasing competition. Green tea gained popularity, prompting many tea factories in Hsinchu to acquire new machines and facilities for green tea production. By the 1960s, Taiwan's green tea could no longer compete with teas from China and Japan. To address this, the Formosa Black Tea Co. Ltd. took the lead in importing tea production machines from Japan and shared Japanese tea production techniques with others in the industry.
In the 1970s and 1980s, a significant amount of Taiwan's green tea was exported to Japan. However, with Taiwan's rapid economic growth from 1981 onwards, many young people migrated to cities, resulting in an aging population of tea farmers. Consequently, many tea farmers abandoned tea mountains and pursued alternative livelihoods. Nantou emerged as the county with the largest tea production volume, surpassing Hsinchu in 1989.
In 1998, the first "Beipu Pong-Feng Festival" was held, jointly organized by the Council of Agriculture, Hsinchu County Government, Beipu Township Farmers' Association, tea farmers in Beipu, and local cultural offices. The festival successfully packaged and marketed Pong-Feng Tea in the context of Hakka culture, leading to the revival of the tea industry in Beipu. The first Hakka Pounded Tea house was established in Beipu in 1999, and today, there are around 60 tea houses. Similar industrial and cultural activities were held in Emei in 2000-2001, contributing to the revitalization of the tea industry in Hsinchu.
Naming of Oriental Beauty Tea
Originally, Oriental Beauty Tea (Pong-Feng Tea) was known as Taiwan Oolong Tea. Oolong tea is a fermented tea similar to black tea and is made from young buds with white tips. Therefore, it is also referred to as Baihau (white-tip) Oolong Tea, Champagne Oolong Tea, or Pong-Feng Tea.
According to legend, some tea gardens were invaded and damaged by insect pests. In order to avoid suffering significant losses, some tea farmers still brought their tea to the city for sale. Due to its special flavor, the tea became very popular and was quickly purchased by trade companies. When tea farmers shared this story, they were accused of "pong-feng" (boasting). As a result, the tea was named Pong-Feng Tea.
Production of Oriental Beauty Tea
Fresh Oriental Beauty Tea leaves have a golden color. After refinement, the tea leaves have white tips and a colorful appearance, with shades of red, white, yellow, brown, and green. It is also traditionally referred to as "green leaf with red fringe." The tea is composed of one bud and two leaves that curl up like a flower. When brewed, the tea has an amber color and a natural fruity and honey fragrance.
Oriental Beauty Tea must be planted in a leeward and humid environment with sufficient sunlight and no pollution. The main production areas of Oriental Beauty Tea in Taiwan are Hsinchu (Beipu and Emei) and Miaoli (Toufen and Touwu), which are known for producing the highest quality and most famous Oriental Beauty Tea.
The best time to produce Oriental Beauty Tea is around the Dragon Boat Festival in early June. The tea leaves are carefully picked, usually using the one-bud-two-leaves method, and refined using traditional skills. Oriental Beauty Tea requires at least three times the amount of leaves compared to other tea varieties, making its production more challenging and limited in quantity.
Tea Production process
1. Fresh tea leaves
Tea leaves are carefully picked from tea trees, with different parts of the leaves selected depending on the specific tea variety.
2. Withering
Withering can be done through sunlight or hot air exposure, which evaporates water from the leaves and lowers cell activity. This allows for the fermentation of chemical components, particularly catechin. The leaves are then stirred and placed indoors for further withering.
3. Blanching
There are two methods of blanching, either parching or steaming. In Taiwan, parching is predominantly used. High temperatures are employed to halt enzyme activity and prevent continuous fermentation, preserving the tea leaves' special fragrance and softening their texture for easier rolling.
4. Rolling
There are two methods of rolling, either using a rolling machine or manually pressing and rolling the leaves wrapped in cloth. Rolling results in the leaves taking on roll, spherical, and hemispherical shapes, with some tea leaf tissues being destroyed, making them more suitable for brewing.
5. Separation
After rolling, the tea leaves may be intertwined, making drying challenging. Prior to the drying process, the leaves need to be separated.
6. Drying
Tea leaves are dried in a machine dryer, where high temperatures restrain the remaining enzyme activity. Once dried, the tea is referred to as "crude tea" or "raw tea" and requires further refinement to become a quality tea product.
The tea ceremony (gongfucha)
The Gongfucha tea ceremony holds great significance in Taiwanese culture. It involves the rituals of tea preparation and presentation. Tea masters undergo years of study to perfect this method, with attention to chemistry and temperature being crucial for brewing excellent tea.
The flavor and aroma of brewed tea can be influenced by the quality and fragrance of the water used. Distilled water is not recommended as it lacks essential minerals that enhance the tea's flavor. Additionally, water temperature plays a vital role in extracting the essential oils of the tea.
The ceremony involves various stages, including warming cups, rinsing tea leaves with hot water, and brewing the tea. It is common for Taiwanese households to possess at least one set of tea ware, and collecting teapots is a popular hobby among tea enthusiasts.
The necessary items for making tea include a brewing vessel, tea pitcher, brewing tray, water kettle, tea towel, spoon, cups, a calligraphy-style brush with a wooden handle, scent cups, and a tea spoon for measurement.
