Hsinchu / Miaoli Christmas 2023

The holiday season possesses a magical ability to transform cities and towns into enchanting wonderlands adorned with festive decorations and the warm glow of Christmas lights. Recently, we visited two charming cities in Taiwan - Hsinchu and Miaoli. In comparison to Taichung, Tainan, and, of course, Taipei, there were nearly no decorations here. But something is better than nothing, right?

Our first stop was Zhubei, a district within Hsinchu, where we stumbled upon a small Christmas Market selling local crafts and handmade goods. We waited a while for the Christmas tree to light up. Sadly, except for that one tree, there were no other decorations around. Later on, we drove to the Big City shopping mall. There are always Christmas trees and some decorations in front of the entrance, although each year they are fairly similar. The same goes for the SOGO shopping mall. Unlike five years ago, this year there were no decorations around the east gate and the river nearby.

Hsinchu County Hall, Zhubei

Hsinchu County Hall, Zhubei

Hsinchu County Hall, Zhubei

Another time, we drove to Miaoli City. The only decorations (that I know of) can be found at the Library and City Hall. I think those at City Hall were quite nice and more than in other places in Hsinchu and Miaoli we've visited previously. It was cold that day, as a cold front had just come. From 27 degrees Celsius, it dropped to 12, and it will be less than 10 by the end of the week. Also, the strong wind is pretty cold. Not a big deal, right? Taiwan doesn't have heating at home, as there aren't many cold days. So once it gets to 10 degrees outside, at home, the temperature quickly drops too. We also went to the night market and tried a few different foods there.

For more on our experiences, feel free to check out my YouTube video. Welcome to check it out!

Miaoli Library

Miaoli Library

Miaoli Library

Read More

Miaoli Travel: Exploring Mountains of Nanzhuang - Saisiyat Folklore Museum

We were driving to Nanzhuang to visit Nanzhuang Old Street, and decided to explore further by heading to the Saisiyat Folklore Museum. Upon arrival, we found that not much was happening at that time, with only a few visitors around. Nevertheless, some food options were available. Aboriginal cuisine, known for its tastiness and delightful aroma, possibly enhanced by the addition of MaGao (Mountain Pepper). 

We tried several snacks, including Millet mochi, Sausage, and MaGao tea eggs. The mochi had a unique taste, somewhat reminiscent of bread, possibly due to the millet. Having never tried millet on its own, I wasn't certain about its flavor. The mochi taste was distinct from the typical mochi found elsewhere.

Nearby the mochi stall, there was an aunt selling sausages that emitted a delightful fragrance. We later learned that they were seasoned with lemongrass and mountain pepper, resulting in a fantastic taste. Highly recommended! 

Around the car parking area, vendors were selling mountain pepper-flavored tea eggs. We tried both, and while they tasted fairly similar, the stall on the left had a stronger flavor, possibly because they were cooked longer. By the way, the chef had worked in a restaurant in the USA several years ago.

I believe that in the summer, during the more rainy season, the lake must look beautiful. However, when we visited Xiangtian Lake, it was very shallow, and the fishes were swimming at the top, gasping for air. A trail circled the lake, providing a perfect opportunity for a walk in the sunny, warm weather. 

Following the track, we found a stall with a note displaying the prices of vegetables and ginger, and a jar for placing money. Such setups might be a failure in Europe, as people might not pay and still take items away...

 

Saisiyat Folklore Museum (賽夏族民俗文物館)

The Saixia people are an ethnic minority among the aboriginal groups, with a population of around 5,000. They primarily reside in Wufeng Township in Hsinchu County, Nanzhuang Township, and Shitan Township in Miaoli County, as well as in Egongji Mountain and Hengpingbei Mountain, divided into Southern and Northern Saixia. Due to their small population, preserving their culture is challenging. To address this, the Miaoli County Government established the Saixia Ethnic Cultural Relics Museum on the bank of Xiangtian Lake to pass on the Saixia cultural heritage.

The museum houses various Saisiyat artifacts, including bamboo weavings, ramie fabrics, aboriginal creative arts, as well as fishing and farming equipment. It also explains the process of Saisiyat ceremonies. The museum serves not only as a place for outsiders to understand the Saixia way of life but also as a means of preserving the Saixia culture. In the future, the museum plans to hold exhibitions on Saisiyat photography, crafts, and food to enrich its content and establish itself internationally as a world-class cultural relics museum.

Dwarf Spirit Festival (矮靈祭)

In ancient times, black dwarves, who were less than one meter tall, imparted special skills to the Saisiyat people, teaching them how to farm and worship gods. Every year during the harvest, the Saisiyat people invited the Dwarf tribe to join in the celebrations. Over time, the Dwarf tribe began behaving inappropriately towards Saixia women. In response, the Saixia tribe devised a trap during a harvest festival, leading to the demise of the Dwarf tribe. To appease the spirits of the deceased Dwarves, the "Dwarf Spirit Festival" is now held in mid-October of the lunar calendar, occurring both annually and once every ten years.

Ticket Prices

Full ticket: 30NT

Group ticket (more than 20 people): 20NT

Preferential ticket (residents of this county): 10NT

Free admission for:

- Children under six years old

- A person with a disability holding a disability certificate and one necessary companion

- People over 65 years old

- Those holding low-income household certificates

- Miaoli County Saixia Folk Cultural Relics Museum and Miaoli County Atayal Cultural Relics Museum are free for aborigines registered in the county

Read More

Exploring the Heritage: Nanzhuang Old Street in Miaoli

Nanzhuang Township is located in Miaoli County, Taiwan. It belongs to the Zhonggang River Basin and is part of the Shenshan National Scenic Area. The majority of residents are Hakka, with a diverse population that includes aboriginal ethnic groups.

The township's name comes from its seat and largest settlement during the Japanese occupation, later changed to Nanzhuang Township after World War II.

Historically, the area was inhabited by Saisiyat and Atayal peoples. During the Qing Dynasty, it belonged to Zhuluo County and later became part of Hsinchu County. The Han Dynasty's reclamation efforts began in the early 19th century, with Huang Qiying playing a key role.

The Qing government's pass in Sanwan and the establishment of Nanzhuang Street Market in the 1830s marked further development. After the Peony Society incident, Nanzhuang became part of Hsinchu County. During Japanese occupation, administrative changes occurred until stability in 1901.

The "Nanzhuang Incident" took place in 1902 when Japanese were dissatisfied with the brain-making industry's conditions. In 1920, administrative divisions were restructured, and Nanzhuang became part of Zhunan County, Hsinchu Prefecture. In 1945, Taiwan was handed over to Taiwan, and in 1950, Nanzhuang Township became part of Miaoli County. Today, it remains a flatland aboriginal township.

Nanzhuang Township, the second-largest in Miaoli County, Taiwan, covers 165.49 square kilometers.

It features hills and mountains, with 1,763 hectares of agricultural land mainly in Nanfu and Yuanlin villages.

Altitude ranges from 120 meters to over 2,200 meters, divided into two mountain systems: Gari Mountain Block and Baguali Mountain Block.

Nanzhuang has a subtropical climate with an average annual temperature of about 20.7 degrees Celsius.

Mild winters with an average January temperature of 13.9 degrees Celsius.

Rainfall varies across the township, with higher averages in mountainous areas, contributing to abundant water resources.

As of 2022, Nanzhuang Township has approximately 38,000 households and a population of around 9,000 people. Nanjiang Village and Xicun have the largest and smallest populations, with 1,448 and 662 people, respectively.

Nanzhuang Old Street (南庄老街)

Nanzhuang Old Street has a strong Hakka nostalgic flavor, it attracts many tourists during holidays. The main attractions include Yongchang Temple, Old Post Office, Nogizaki, Osmanthus Lane, and Washing Pit. The traditional old street is centered around Zhongzheng Road, with numerous businesses on both sides. 

Nanzhuang's development dates back to the Qing Dynasty, and during the Japanese era, it was a mining area for camphor and coal. Following the severe damage caused by the 1935 earthquake, the Japanese were commissioned to plan the reconstruction project, resulting in the landscape of two-story Japanese-style wooden buildings on both sides of Zhongzheng Road. 

Osmanthus Lane originally referred to a noodle shop at the mouth of an alley on Zhongzheng Road. Through intentional efforts by the local government and business owners, the lane and its surroundings have become a well-known "Osmanthus Lane Community," gradually replacing Zhongzheng Road and becoming a familiar spot for tourists.

Apart from admiring the characteristic buildings from the Japanese colonial era, you must try the old street's specialty, osmanthus brew, and special Hakka delicacies. The suspension bridge and Nanzhuang Waterfront Park are also excellent places to enjoy the beautiful scenery of Nanzhuang.

Osmanthus Alley of Nanzhuang Old Street is renowned far and wide and is a must-visit for tourists. Various snacks, delicacies, and osmanthus meals are sold in the simple and elegant alleys, allowing tourists to experience the guest house style. 

The laundry pit, located at the end of Guihua Lane, was a place where local residents used to wash clothes, vegetables, and fruits in the early years. The stone washboard above it preserves relics of the Hakka people's diligent and thrifty life in the past.

Nanzhuang Culture Hall / Old Post Office (南庄文化會館 / 老郵局)

Nanzhuang Old Street is situated on Zhongzheng Road and in the side alleys near Yongchang Palace. Apart from admiring the characteristic buildings from the Japanese colonial era, you must try the old street's specialty, osmanthus brew, and special Hakka delicacies. The suspension bridge and Nanzhuang Waterfront Park are also excellent places to enjoy the beautiful scenery of Nanzhuang.

The Nanzhuang Post Office was built in 1900 and still retains the architectural style of the Japanese occupation period. It holds historical significance and value. The building was reconstructed after the 1935 earthquake in central Taiwan. The telecommunications bureau had two flagpoles, and the telecommunications and post offices took turns raising and lowering the flag, which was quite interesting. In 1972, the telecommunications bureau moved out, and in 1985, the post office followed suit. After the old post office became vacant, it served as a rural nursery school, Nanzhuang Cultural Hall, and a classroom for the Air University. 

Yongchang Palace (永昌宮)

Yongchang Palace was established in 1905. After the Guandaoshan earthquake destroyed the original site, eight individuals, including Mr. Zhong Lianfa, decided on relocation of the temple. The construction was completed in 1930, and three years later, the temple was officially consecrated. Thirty years after the move, in July 1975, the temple underwent reconstruction, and the golden statue of the Holy Spirit was enshrined in the niche. The three-story palace is oriented from east to west, seamlessly blending modern and traditional architectural elements. The main hall is dedicated to the worship of three emperors: the Jade Emperor, the Holy Mother of Heaven, the late Emperor of Five Grains, the Lord of Praise for Loyalty and Righteousness, and the God of Fude and Zheng. A plaque inscribed with "Emperor's Virtue Tianzun" hangs prominently, lending an air of solemnity to the palace. The temple houses significant cultural relics, including early bronze bells, wooden fish, and rice buckets dating back over a hundred years. Additionally, old photographs from the temple's past depict the details of its construction process. Yongchang Palace serves as a religious focal point for the villagers of Nanzhuang.

Read More