December 13, 2023

Miaoli Travel: Exploring Mountains of Nanzhuang - Saisiyat Folklore Museum

By Żaneta Hsu December 13, 2023 // No comments

We were driving to Nanzhuang to visit Nanzhuang Old Street, and decided to explore further by heading to the Saisiyat Folklore Museum. Upon arrival, we found that not much was happening at that time, with only a few visitors around. Nevertheless, some food options were available. Aboriginal cuisine, known for its tastiness and delightful aroma, possibly enhanced by the addition of MaGao (Mountain Pepper).

We tried several snacks, including Millet mochi, Sausage, and MaGao tea eggs. The mochi had a unique taste, somewhat reminiscent of bread, possibly due to the millet. Having never tried millet on its own, I wasn't certain about its flavor. The mochi taste was distinct from the typical mochi found elsewhere.

Nearby the mochi stall, there was an aunt selling sausages that emitted a delightful fragrance. We later learned that they were seasoned with lemongrass and mountain pepper, resulting in a fantastic taste. Highly recommended!

Around the car parking area, vendors were selling mountain pepper-flavored tea eggs. We tried both, and while they tasted fairly similar, the stall on the left had a stronger flavor, possibly because they were cooked longer. By the way, the chef had worked in a restaurant in the USA several years ago.

I believe that in the summer, during the more rainy season, the lake must look beautiful. However, when we visited Xiangtian Lake, it was very shallow, and the fishes were swimming at the top, gasping for air. A trail circled the lake, providing a perfect opportunity for a walk in the sunny, warm weather.

Following the track, we found a stall with a note displaying the prices of vegetables and ginger, and a jar for placing money. Such setups might be a failure in Europe, as people might not pay and still take items away...

Saisiyat Folklore Museum (賽夏族民俗文物館)

The Saixia people are an ethnic minority among the aboriginal groups, with a population of around 5,000. They primarily reside in Wufeng Township in Hsinchu County, Nanzhuang Township, and Shitan Township in Miaoli County, as well as in Egongji Mountain and Hengpingbei Mountain, divided into Southern and Northern Saixia. Due to their small population, preserving their culture is challenging. To address this, the Miaoli County Government established the Saixia Ethnic Cultural Relics Museum on the bank of Xiangtian Lake to pass on the Saixia cultural heritage.

The museum houses various Saisiyat artifacts, including bamboo weavings, ramie fabrics, aboriginal creative arts, as well as fishing and farming equipment. It also explains the process of Saisiyat ceremonies. The museum serves not only as a place for outsiders to understand the Saixia way of life but also as a means of preserving the Saixia culture. In the future, the museum plans to hold exhibitions on Saisiyat photography, crafts, and food to enrich its content and establish itself internationally as a world-class cultural relics museum.

Dwarf Spirit Festival (矮靈祭)

In ancient times, black dwarves, who were less than one meter tall, imparted special skills to the Saisiyat people, teaching them how to farm and worship gods. Every year during the harvest, the Saisiyat people invited the Dwarf tribe to join in the celebrations. Over time, the Dwarf tribe began behaving inappropriately towards Saixia women. In response, the Saixia tribe devised a trap during a harvest festival, leading to the demise of the Dwarf tribe. To appease the spirits of the deceased Dwarves, the "Dwarf Spirit Festival" is now held in mid-October of the lunar calendar, occurring both annually and once every ten years.