Miaoli One-Day Travel - Part 2: Cai Family Ancient House

Travel Date: 2024/04/20

This time, we embarked on a trip all the way south of Miaoli County. We live in the Toufen Zhunan Area, which is nearby Hsinchu. It was about a 120km scooter ride, leaving us super tired and sunburned, but it was truly enjoyable as we visited several places along the way. Our first stop was Tongxiao Shrine, a beautiful Japanese remnant. We wandered around and then walked to the memorial park above. The view from there was stunning, encompassing a vast expanse of Miaoli County, including the sea and mountains. Since it was noon, we also grabbed some food. The Sichuan-style beef noodles and luwei were particularly tasty.

Afterwards, we continued driving further south, arriving in Yuanli Township, situated on the border of Miaoli and Taichung. The old street was rather empty and not well-known, but there was one ancient house that many people visit. The house was large and exceptionally pretty; the owner kindly guided us around, explaining every little detail.

But our journey didn't end there. From the coastal area, we drove all the way to the mountainside. We passed by Hutoushan, also known as Fire Mountain in English. Though we didn't embark on a climb this time, perhaps we'll do so in the future. We then drove to Longtang Broken Bridge and explored the remains on both sides of the river. Having visited only one side in the past, it was a new experience to see both. From the bridge, we proceeded to Shengxing Station, nestled in the mountains. Though no longer in use, the area boasted several wooden houses, food stalls, and numerous tourists. From here, one can take the little train to Longteng Broken Bridge.

Initially planning to head back home, we realized it was already around the time the night market in Miaoli City opened. As we passed by, we decided to stop and visit the children's park then went on to find some foo. That marked the end of our trip. From the time we set out until we returned home, it had been a journey of around 9-10 hours.

Cai Family's Ancient House (蔡家古厝)

The Cai Family's Ancient House, constructed in the late Jiaqing period of the Qing Dynasty around 1820, boasts a rich history spanning nearly 190 years. The ancestral home stands as a testament to their prosperity in business. The Cai family was a prominent family in Yuanli. During the pre-Qing Dynasty, there were many talented people. After the liberation, there were many people who served as mayors and doctors. In Fangli City, as long as the Cai family is mentioned, everyone knows about it.

Craftsmen from China, admitted as Gongsheng students, were commissioned to build this structure using materials imported from their homeland. From Fuzhou fir beams and columns to Tangshan stone floors, the ancient house covers an impressive 600 square meters, adorned with intricate carvings that showcase the beauty of traditional Chinese art.

Named "Cai Quan Sheng Hao," it has served as a backdrop for numerous works of art, including period dramas and literary pieces. Divided into two sections by a low wall, it comprises a public space for business dealings and a private area for family activities.

As the cornerstone of the Cai family's legacy, "Cai Quan Sheng Hao" has witnessed six generations of history, each adding to its rich tapestry of memories. From its humble beginnings as a ganzi store in 1897 to its involvement in various trades such as pressing oil, rice futures, and straw hats, the ancient house reflects the dynamic evolution of the Cai family's entrepreneurial endeavors.

Generations of Cai family members have gathered within its walls to engage in lively debates, play traditional games, and reminisce about bygone days. The courtyard's association with Taiwan's export industry further highlights its economic importance, with products like insect cloth and rush hat mats gaining popularity overseas.

The main hall of the inner courtyard is quite tall and has an ancient style. There are four round brick columns at the entrance.

These brick columns are made of red bricks that are heated and made into arcs. The stacked columns have a very special style. The vestibule is the external commercial area, and the outer courtyard was originally just a courtyard surrounded by walls. Later, it was built into a house and became an area for external commercial activities.

The pointed roof looks like a traditional Chinese-style building.

Only half of the house was accessible for viewing, as the other half is currently inhabited by a family. Nonetheless, the owner graciously gave us a tour and explained numerous details about the house. He pointed out the intricacies of the beam and wall decorations, showcased the antique furniture, and even allowed us to explore the attic.

Adjacent to the ancient house lies Shuntian Palace, known as "Mazu in the City," a revered temple that has stood the test of time. The temple, along with the ancient house, forms the heart of the Fangli Ancient City, attracting artists and filmmakers alike. Renowned painter Xi Dejin found inspiration within the courtyard's confines, capturing its essence in his artwork.

Unfortunately, a building is currently being built behind the Cai Family Ancient House. If you visit the Cai Family Ancient House in the future, you will see a strong contrast between the old and new buildings.

Business hours: Sunday and Saturday 09:00-17:00

Remarks: Open for tours on holidays, please call to make an appointment on weekdays.