Japan trip - Day 5/6: A Relaxed Day in Kumamoto & Heading Home

Travel Date: 2025/08/13-18

For our last day in Kumamoto, I hadn’t planned anything specific. There was an option to take the tram to explore other places around the city, but the weather was rainy - sometimes light, sometimes heavier, so we decided to spend the day shopping and exploring nearby arcades. Kumamoto city is fantastic for this, everything is conveniently located, and there are so many different stores to visit.

Since we didn’t have time the previous day to buy breakfast, we started with a food hunt. I really wanted to try ramen in Japan, and luckily we found Keika Honten Ramen in Tsuruya Department Store. Both the original and spicy flavors were delicious, though I must admit the “spicy” version wasn’t really spicy by my standards. One thing I loved was that you could choose how long the noodles were cooked, perfect for those who don’t like overly chewy noodles.

After breakfast, we explored the shopping arcades and tried some dango - a chewy, mochi-like treat. The ones we tried were filled with sweet potato and red bean paste, which I enjoyed, though I personally prefer mochi as they are softer. Some dango had even more elaborate fillings, like red bean paste with fruits such as strawberries or kiwis - looked delicious!

Next, we visited 3COINS, a shop recommended by many YouTubers. I was mainly looking for earrings, and the store didn’t disappoint - prices were about a third of what you’d pay in Taiwan for similar styles in Poya. The store wasn’t very large, but I still managed to buy a small frying pan and a bowl. Everything felt like good quality, and since most items are made in China anyway, there’s not much difference in purchasing here versus elsewhere.

After a quick rest back at the hotel, the skies opened up with a heavy rain, so it was perfect timing to relax. My husband took a nap, as he isn’t used to walking long distances for work, unlike us, who are more active. Later in the afternoon, we went back out for more shopping at Sakuramachi Shopping Center. We shopped for shoes for our son, and I got a pair for myself. My husband even found a wallet at 50% off, and with the tax refund, it felt like an amazing deal. Japan is really generous with discounts - 30-50%, sometimes even 70% for seasonal items, unlike Taiwan, where discounts are usually much smaller.

After dropping our shopping bags at the hotel, we headed out again - my husband was hoping to have sushi once more. While shopping near Tsuruya Department Store, we spotted Kura Sushi, but unfortunately it wasn’t open yet - it was scheduled to open at the end of August. 

So, we walked back to Sakuramachi Shopping Mall... yes, once again... and decided to dine at Amakusa Ushibukamaru SAKURA MACHI, the same sushi restaurant we visited on our first day. The quality was excellent, and it was a perfect way to enjoy fresh sushi before ending the day.

Back at the hotel around 9 PM, I spent the evening packing our luggage. What started as half-empty bags soon became fully packed with gifts and souvenirs from our trip.

The next morning, we woke up at 7 AM, tidied up, and checked out. Taking the bus from Sakuramachi to the airport was extremely convenient - the stop is on the first floor, and tickets can easily be purchased at the vending machine. Everything is in English and simple to use. Despite arriving two hours early, the airport was busy, and we barely had enough time after check-in and security before boarding.

Our flight back to Taiwan was smooth, and when we landed in the afternoon, the weather was hot and sunny - typhoon Podul was long gone, making our timing perfect.

One thing I have to mention is the amazing buns and breads in Japan. Whether from supermarkets or convenience stores, they are always packed with filling - over 50% in some cases! This is so different from Taiwan, where buns often have very little filling compared to the bread. During our stay, we tried over 10 different buns and several donuts, and I loved them all - especially honeydew-flavored buns. If you’re a dessert or snack lover, Japan is definitely a paradise for buns and pastries.

Summary

Our six-day adventure in Kumamoto, Japan was a mix of cultural exploration, natural beauty, and shopping delights. A little summary of our trip:

Day 1 – Arrival: Despite flying on the day of Typhoon Podul, our flight went smoothly. We stayed at Daiwa Roynet Hotel, conveniently located near Kumamoto Castle and shopping areas. 

Day 2 – Kumamoto Castle & Jojuen Garden: We explored Kumamoto Castle, including exhibitions on its six floors, and visited Katō Shrine and Inari Shrine nearby. In the afternoon, we took a tram to Suizenji Jojuen Garden, a peaceful, well-maintained traditional Japanese garden with beautiful ponds and shrines.

Day 3 – Aso Volcano & Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine: We drove to Aso Volcano, enjoyed the crater views, and learned about its unique geology. Later, we visited Kamishikimi Kumanoimasu Shrine, a hidden gem nestled in the forest with moss-covered lanterns and a long stairway, offering a magical, serene atmosphere.

Day 4 – Yamaga Lantern Festival: We drove to Yamaga, explored the Lantern Museum and historic streets, visited Kongōjō-ji and Omiya Shrine, and experienced the Thousand Lantern Dance (unfortunately interrupted by rain). 

Day 5 – Shopping & Free Day: Rainy weather kept us indoors for a shopping spree. Highlights included trying Keika Honten Ramen, tasting dango, and visiting 3COINS for cute and affordable items. Discounts and tax-free shopping made this day a treat for all. 

Day 6 – Return Home: We packed up and took the bus from Sakuramachi to the airport. The flight back to Taiwan was smooth, and the typhoon had passed, making for a perfect ending. 

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Japan Trip - Day 4: Trip to Yamaga: Lanterns, Tradition & (Almost) a Thousand Lantern Dance

We began our Day 4 at a relaxed pace, meeting at 11 AM to head to Yamaga, a picturesque town about one hour’s drive from Kumamoto City. Yamaga is known for its traditional onsen (hot springs) and its famed lantern festival (Toro Matsuri) held every summer during Obon.

Parking was a challenge. Festival rules meant town parking lots only allowed exits before 5:30 PM and effectively locking your car in until midnight. We opted instead for a free spot 1 km away, across the river, then braced ourselves for the heat - 38 °C.... so intense that I resorted to using an umbrella for shade, something I normally don’t do.

Yamaga, located about 30 km north of Kumamoto City in Kumamoto Prefecture, blends heritage and natural beauty. Nestled in a basin with the Kikuchi River flowing through, its northern landscapes feature the Kyushu Mountains. Known historically for its hot springs and as a post town on the Buzen Kaidō route, Yamaga remains rich in traditional crafts and long-standing cultural events.

Yamaga Lantern Folk Crafts Museum

Our first stop was the Yamaga Lantern Folk Crafts Museum, housed in a Taishō-era former bank building from the 1920s with preserved Romanesque architecture, now a registered Tangible Cultural Property.

The museum exhibits showcase the artisanship behind “toro” - lanterns built using only washi paper and minimal glue, without metal or wood. Larger, detailed lanterns can take months to craft.

Many lanterns are shaped to mimic real architecture - shrines, the Yachiyoza Theatre, and local landmarks.

The museum offers workshops where visitors can make smaller lantern parts (e.g., giboshu) with guidance from experts - a hands-on cultural experience.

We also learned about the myth involving Emperor Keiko, who was guided through fog by torch-bearing villagers - a story that sparked the lantern tradition centuries ago.

We encountered some confusion at the ticket counter—paperwork seemed to bundle museum entry with a performance we didn’t want to attend. Eventually we clarified that the performance occurs only during the two days of the festival, and that outside showtimes the museum can be visited separately after 6PM. Admission for both opened areas came to 730 yen per adult.

Wandering through Yamaga’s Old Streets

After the museum, we wandered through Yamaga’s atmospheric old town, stepping into a traditional-styled shrine with an unusual entrance bridge - Kongōjō-ji (金剛乗寺). Though modest, it's charming and sits amid historic surroundings, adding to Yamaga’s nostalgic feel.

Founded circa 825 by Kūkai (Kōbō Daishi), the founder of Shingon Buddhism in Japan, Kongōjō-ji is considered the oldest temple in Yamaga and was once known as the "Western Kōyasan" for its grand scale. 

During the 15th century, when the local hot springs dried up, the temple’s head priest, Yumei Hōin, prayed fervently and built the Yakushi-dō Hall honoring Yakushi Nyorai - the Buddha of Healing. The hot springs eventually returned, and Yamaga’s annual Onsen Revival Festival commemorates this miracle. 

The Stone Gate (Ishimmon) was crafted in 1804 by stonemason Jinki from tuff stone, this round-arched gate is a town-designated cultural asset. Its circular design signifies entering the body of Buddha - it’s even considered a power spot for good relationships. 

Inside, you'll find statues of Yakushi Nyorai (the principal deity), Dainichi Nyorai, Yumei Hōin, Shōten, Fudō Myōō, and a restored Nyoirin Kannon Hall featuring beautiful Buddhist sculptures. 

The later tradition of offering paper lanterns during the Yamaga Lantern Festival traces back to lanterns created in Yumei Hōin’s honor—by a paper craft master, after his passing. 

The temple grounds are free to visit and open daily from approximately 8 AM to 6 PM, with a small free parking area (around 10 cars) available near the entrance. 

Omiya Shrine

Lunch options were sparse - many shops were still closed as afternoon approached, so we continued exploring and eventually visited Ōmiya Shrine, a focal point during the festival, and scoped out the elementary school grounds where the famed Thousand Lantern Dance (Sennin Toro Odori) takes place. During the festival, these streets fill with lanterns and lively procession - women perform an elegant dance, balancing golden lanterns on their heads in slow circles.

The elementary school grounds nearby were already set up for the famous Thousand Lantern Dance — it looked amazing even before it started.

Omiya Shrine, surrounded by tall trees and a peaceful atmosphere, is one of the city’s most important shrines. Every August 15–16, it becomes the center of the Yamaga Lantern Festival (Yamaga Toro Matsuri), the town’s most iconic summer celebration tied to Obon, the Buddhist tradition of honoring ancestral spirits. The glowing lanterns are believed to guide the spirits, creating a truly magical and spiritual scene.

The highlight is the Thousand Lantern Dance (Senbon Toro Odori), where about 1,000 women in summer yukata dance gracefully with golden paper lanterns balanced on their heads. The festival’s roots date back centuries, when locals guided Emperor Keiko through dense fog using torches—an act that later evolved into the luminous tradition of offering paper lanterns.

The festivities also include a spectacular fireworks show, with over 4,000 fireworks illuminating the night sky above the Kikuchi River. Celebrated with deep community pride, ancestral homage, and artistry, the festival is often described by locals as “a moment that brings goosebumps.

Discovering Yachiyoza Theater

Next, we visited Yachiyoza Theater, a historical playhouse built in 1910, known for its Western-influenced design and notable as a National Important Cultural Property.

The theatre once faded in popularity in the 1970s but was revived and restored by locals - gaining its cultural asset designation in 1988. After falling into decline, it was restored in the early 2000s. 

Features include under-stage trap doors, rotating stage platforms, and a hanamichi (pathway for dramatic entrances), showing advanced stage tech for its time.

Another era building nearby, Yumekogura, serves as a museum containing costumes, posters, and props.

During festival seasons, the theatre hosts special performances - including kabuki and dances, sometimes featuring the lantern dance and taiko drums. Outside festival times, you can tour backstage and understage areas with guidance and English handouts.

A combined ticket for Yachiyoza, Yumekogura, and the lantern museum costs around 730 yen.

Additionally, the theatre plays a central role in seasonal events like the Yamaga Romantic Lantern Festival during winter (Feb–Mar), where it displays lantern art and hosts stage performances.

Waiting for the Lantern Dance—Then the Rain

As evening approached, the festival area came alive. Streets turned bustling with food stalls and impromptu dancing near Sakura-yu, Yamaga’s local onsen building, a fun scene to stumble into. Finally, we took our seats at the school venue - though at the back, it offered good views.

The children with their lanterns danced beautifully as 8PM neared. But just minutes before the main event, a sudden downpour hit! People waited patiently, some left in rush as they didn't have any cover, but after 15 minutes, the Thousand Lantern Dance was canceled. We had traveled so far and waited so long - it was heartbreaking to miss it... Wet and sandy, we made our way back to the car.

The drive back was slow - traffic was much worse than on the drive out. By 10 PM we were back in Kumamoto City.

Night had transformed Kumamoto into a different world. Streets were silent yet tinged with odd energy - many women dressed provocatively wandered around, clearly seeking business. It wasn't dangerous, but it felt unfamiliar, especially with our child. Still, compared to Europe, it felt safer - just odd.

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