Exploring Guanxi: Historical Gems of Hsinchu, Taiwan

Travel Date: 2013/09/15

Guanxi, nestled in Hsinchu County, Taiwan, is a captivating township rich in history, culture, and natural beauty. Known for its tea production, historic sites, and Hakka traditions, Guanxi invites visitors to explore its old streets, temples, and picturesque landscapes. 

We visited Guanxi sometime in 2018 when we used to live in Hsinchu City, and we decided to revisit it. We actually rode scooters from Toufen in Miaoli, and it took about 1 hour to get there, which was quite tiring. When we left home, the weather was really good with a clear blue sky, but it didn't stay the same. When we arrived, it was quite cloudy. Luckily for us, right?

During our visit, we explored the Tea Factory, an Old Bridge, a Japanese-style police office, and Guanxi Old Street, which seemed much emptier compared to a few years ago. We also explored some old houses around town.

Guanxi Dongan Bridge (關西東安橋) 

Guanxi Dong'an Bridge, situated in Guanxi Town, Hsinchu County, Taiwan, is a revered historical landmark. Originally known as Caifeng Bridge, it has been officially recognized as a designated historic site in Hsinchu County.

The necessity for this bridge arose due to the Niulan River's presence in the Guanxi region. Previous wooden bridges were frequently washed away by flash floods, causing disruptions in transportation. In 1933, a collaborative effort between the government, local residents, and the Sandun area (now Santun District of Dong'anli) led to the construction of Dong'an Bridge. Japanese experts were enlisted to design the bridge, and local artisans, particularly stonemason Li, utilized fine-textured local stones in its construction. The construction commenced on January 12, 1933 and concluded in late November of the same year. By August 1935, the entire transportation system was accessible.

Upon its official opening in 1935, a monument was erected to commemorate the bridge's completion, with an inscription indicating an erection cost of 4,669 yen. Donations from local residents  contributed significantly to its construction. The names of households that donated more than 1 yuan each are engraved on a stone tablet at the east end of the bridge. Dong'an Bridge played a pivotal role in transporting agricultural produce from Dong'an and Dongshan areas to the market, becoming a vital transportation artery in Kansai's history of development.

As time progressed and vehicular traffic increased, the Hsinchu County Government renovated the Niulan River in 1999. This included the creation of the Niulan River Water Park adjacent to Dong'an Bridge, featuring a buffalo statue and a suspension bridge, as well as stone landscaping. The waterfront park has become a venue for various events, including markets and concerts in conjunction with the Guanxi Town Art Festival. In 2003, a new five-arch bridge was constructed adjacent to the old bridge, and in 2010, Dong'an Bridge was officially designated as a county-designated historic site by the Cultural Bureau of the Hsinchu County Government.

In 2017, Guanxi Town Office independently repaired the bridge, garnering attention from the Cultural Affairs Bureau. In 2019, due to issues like concrete deterioration and steel corrosion, plans to dismantle and rebuild the guardrail of Dong'an Ancient Bridge were considered by the Guanxi Town Office. However, local environmental and Native Culture Associations opposed this plan. After a public hearing, a consensus was reached to dismantle it while preserving the ancient bridge's guardrail construction style as much as possible. The guardrail reconstruction project replicated the original ancient bridge's design.

Dong'an Bridge's classical and elegant architecture, coupled with the picturesque waterside park, has made it a popular filming location for movies. Productions like the 2008 film "Ghost Love Letter" and the 2015 movie "My Girlhood" have featured scenes shot at the Niulan River Water Park and Dong'an Bridge.

Guanxi Branch Office (關西分駐所)

The Guanxi Branch Office, a historical landmark completed in 1920 during the period of the Japanese Empire, is designated historic site.

This distinguished edifice has played multiple roles throughout its storied past. During the Japanese colonial period, it functioned as a vital administrative center for the Japanese colonial government, overseeing local affairs and household registration in Guanxi Village. Later, following a fire incident, it was repurposed as the office space for the local "Baojia Secretary Office" under the jurisdiction of the Hsinchu County Office Police Division.

After World War II, the building passed into the hands of the local government, continuing to serve as a vital hub for various police units. However, as time took its toll, the structure faced challenges such as aging, inadequate facilities, and water leakage issues. In response, local government authorities initiated a renovation and relocation plan, resulting in the construction of a new Japanese-style branch office building, mirroring the existing architecture. This new Guanxi branch was officially completed on March 27, 2017, marking a new chapter in its history as it relocated to its modern premises.

The original Guanxi Branch Office, with its enduring Japanese architectural flair, primarily features a one-story reinforced concrete brick structure adorned with Japanese tiles on the roof. A distinctive triangular gable graces the front entrance, while the columns on either side exhibit Western geometric pattern reliefs, giving the building an intriguing style. A unique blend of Japanese and local architectural elements characterizes this historic structure.

Adjacent to the main building stands the Guanxi Branch Director's Dormitory, a splendid example of Japanese-style wooden architecture, which adds further charm to the site.

Today, the original Guanxi Branch Office stands as a testament to the rich history of the region and its architectural heritage. 

Jintai Tea Factory (錦泰茶業股份有限公司) 

The Jintai Tea Factory, nestled in the heart of Guanxi, Hsinchu County, boasts a storied legacy in the production of renowned Hakka teas, including Oriental Beauty Tea, Lei Cha, and fruit tea. This esteemed establishment, founded in 1936 by Luo Jinxi, initially commenced its operations using equipment that had gracefully aged over 70 years. During the Japanese occupation, it operated relentlessly with a workforce exceeding 50 individuals, and its output of 50,000 kilograms of raw tea found its way to destinations worldwide. The factory's unwavering commitment to both productivity and quality earned it widespread recognition, including accolades in prestigious tea competitions.

In response to surging demand, a new Guanxi Factory was erected in 1938. This expansion was marked not only by the introduction of modern machinery but also the preservation of traditional equipment, resulting in a harmonious blend of old and new. This strategic move effectively tripled the factory's size, ushering in a new era of enhanced efficiency. Today, the Jintai Tea Factory occupies an expansive area spanning approximately 5,000 pings (a unit of land measurement in Taiwan) and stands as a living testament to its rich historical legacy, housing valuable artifacts that reflect its enduring heritage.

As the landscape of tea production in Hsinchu evolved over time, Mr. Luo Jinxi demonstrated remarkable adaptability. In 1991, he diversified the company's focus towards tourism and domestic research and development. Pioneering innovative tea varieties like sour citrus tea and blending traditional techniques with modern technology, such as longan charcoal roasting for alpine oolong tea, the Jintai Tea Factory continues to push boundaries. It has metamorphosed into the Hsinchu Jintai Sightseeing Tea Factory, a multifaceted institution that not only produces exceptional teas but also hosts the Jintai Tea Cultural Relics Museum. Furthermore, the factory's profound historical significance has led to its designation as a cultural monument, serving as a living testament to Taiwan's rich tea history and heritage.

Hakka-style tea

One of the noteworthy Hakka fruit teas is Bitter Orange Tea, crafted from Huton Gan, a generously sized bitter citrus fruit. Traditionally, this fruit is often used as a decorative element during Chinese New Year celebrations, but its inherent bitterness typically deters its consumption. However, the ingenious preparation of Bitter Orange Tea involves thoroughly cleaning the fruit's interior and filling it with tea leaves. The result is a delightful infusion with a complex flavor profile, encompassing sweetness, subtle sourness, and a lingering bitterness. This unique tea undergoes a meticulous process of nine steaming and nine drying cycles, spanning approximately half a year. The extended air drying period contributes to its distinct flavor, and notably, this tea contains no added preservatives. Additionally, it exhibits reduced foaming compared to conventional teas, making it a distinctive and cherished beverage choice.

Another renowned Hakka tea is Lei Cha, also known as Pounded Tea. According to legend, during the Three Kingdoms period, soldiers faced a plague outbreak. An elderly herbal doctor concocted a healing tea by mixing raw tea leaves, rice, and ginger with boiling water, which remarkably aided the soldiers in recovering their health. In contemporary times, Lei Cha can be savored as both a beverage and a dessert. Its versatility lies in the diverse array of ingredients that can be incorporated, such as sesame, red beans, soybeans, barley, lotus seeds, or pumpkin, creating a delightful fusion of flavors and textures.

Roasted oolong tea, on the other hand, is a product of meticulous charcoal roasting. The tea leaves undergo a transformation during the baking process, resulting in a rich brown hue that characterizes brown oolong tea. This tea boasts an infusion that exudes an inviting amber color, a robust flavor profile, and a captivating aroma that's uniquely its own. Beyond its delightful taste, roasted oolong tea is known for its efficacy in combating greasiness, aiding digestion, and alleviating the effects of indulgence, making it particularly well-suited for consumption after a hearty, oily meal.

Guanxi Old Street (關西老街)

Guanxi Street, originally named Guanxi Zhuang, was established in 1920. The buildings along Guanxi Old Street are predominantly two-story structures adorned with Baroque-style facades. Typically, Old Streets are bustling with visitors on weekends, but during our visit, we didn't encounter many. However, this charming locale boasts a variety of shops, including a century-old bookstore renowned for its extensive collection of 3,000 books. Additionally, you'll find a clothing store specializing in natural dyes and a delightful teahouse.

Exploring the historical alley is another highlight of this area, steeped in memories. This narrow alley, in existence for over a century, once served as a shortcut to the Dongtai Theatre, where countless young people gathered to watch movies and share their love stories. It holds cherished memories from past generations. The goal was to recreate the ambiance of this narrow alley in modern life, offering young people a chance to connect with its history and relish a unique and comfortable walking experience. As you stroll along this alley, you'll come across paintings on the ground and stories etched onto the walls. Although the theatre building now appears quite dilapidated, you can locate a QR code on the structure that links to a video about Guanxi.

Address:

1. Jintai tea Factory:  306新竹縣關西鎮中豐路一段336號錦泰茶業股份有限公司
2. Guanxi Old Street: 306新竹縣關西鎮中正路關西老街

Read More

Hsinchu Travel: A Journey Through Tea Heritage ~ Guanxi Tea Factory and Guanxi Old Street

Lately, we visited a tea factory in Emei, and this time we are traveling to Guanxi to visit the Jintai tea factory. In the shop, you can see many different kinds of tea. However, the tea is not currently made there, but you can still see the old factory with plenty of machines. You can also observe people packing tea leaves and find some Hakka fruit tea. Inside the factory, there is a movie that can be watched (although it wasn't playing when we visited) and some old pictures. Unfortunately, the information provided there is only in Chinese, unlike the Fuxing Tea Factory in Emei. Not far from this location, there is also the Museum of Tea established.

Jintai Tea Factory (錦泰茶業股份有限公司) 

Jintai Tea Factory is a long-established tea factory in Guanxi, known for producing Oriental Beauty Tea, Lei Cha, and fruit tea, which are three of the most famous Hakka teas. Guanxi is a town in Hsinchu County. In 1793, during the Qing Dynasty, immigrants first came here attracted by the mountains and rivers, and they named it "Mili Zhuang." In 1823, a new street was built. In the 1920s, the Japanese government changed its name to "Kansaizhuang." Tea cultivation began in the Hsinchu area in 1876. The environment and climate in Kansai were suitable for tea growth, and it became a significant tea production area, becoming a symbolic industry for the Hakka community.

Jintai Tea Industry Co., Ltd. (formerly known as Jintai Tea Factory) was established in 1936 by the family's first grandfather, Luo Jinxi. The equipment used in Jintai Tea Factory is over 70 years old. During the Japanese occupation, more than 50 employees worked here 24 hours a day, producing around 50,000 kg of raw tea. The finished tea was exported to numerous port cities abroad. To support the hard-working employees, the factory even set up a rice mill to produce a large amount of rice, which won a grand prize. It is one of the representative tea factories, known for its large output and high-quality products. In 1937, the factory was awarded the second prize in the Hsinchu County Black Tea Competition. In the early 1940s, it received the "Dragon Bird Taste" award from the renowned Concord Bank of Taipei. Additionally, it won the special prize in the tea sanitation facilities competition among the 12 provinces.

In 1938, the new Guanxi Factory was founded. The original location of Jintai Tea Factory was situated next to the restaurant of Guanyulou. As business boomed, there was a need for more production space. Many cultural relics and literary materials dating back 70 years have been carefully preserved and are displayed in an orderly manner. After the completion of the new plant, the old-fashioned machines purchased 70 years ago were not sufficient, so a large number of additional machines were added. The scale of the entire factory was increased by at least three times to improve production efficiency. The longstanding Jintai factory covers an area of approximately 5,000 pings.

As the tea industry in the Kansai region gradually declined due to the reduction of tea gardens, Mr. Luo Jinxi began to plan for the future. On November 13, 1991, the company transformed into a tourism-oriented establishment and established a domestic R&D department to promote the development of black tea, green tea, and health fruit teas. These include sour citrus tea, lemon tea, mountain bitter gourd tea, and other innovative and uniquely researched tea series. Combining traditional technology from the Tang and Song dynasties with modern science and technology, the company strives to bring out the characteristics and essence of various teas. For instance, they use longan charcoal to roast alpine oolong tea, reducing bitterness and astringency, and developing various charcoal-roasted teas with special aromas. Such roasting techniques are rare in the tea industry.

The company's factory building preserves many precious and complete tea-making equipment from earlier years. It also preserves numerous historical materials and has been adapted to meet public requirements. In November 2002, it was transformed into the Kansai Jintai Sightseeing Tea Factory, and the Jintai Tea Cultural Relics Museum was established. The factory has been listed as a cultural monument for the history of tea.

See also: Fuxing Tea Factory

Hakka-style tea

One of the Hakka fruit teas is Bitter Orange Tea, made from Huton Gan, a large-sized bitter citrus fruit. This fruit is often used as decoration during Chinese New Year, but its bitter flavor prevents it from being used for consumption. The fruit is cleaned from the inside, and tea is placed in the cavity. The fruit tea has a sweet, slightly sour, and bitter taste. It undergoes a process of nine steaming and nine drying, which takes about half a year to complete. This tea has a unique flavor due to long-term air drying, contains no added preservatives, and is less prone to foaming compared to regular tea.

Another famous tea is Lei Cha (Pounded Tea). According to legend, during the Three Kingdoms period, soldiers were infected by a plague. An old herbal doctor used raw tea, rice, and ginger mixed with boiling water to make tea, which helped the soldiers regain their health. Nowadays, Lei Cha can be served as a beverage or as a dessert. Various ingredients can be added, such as sesame, red beans, soybeans, barley, lotus seeds, or pumpkin.

Roasted oolong tea is made using charcoal roasting. The tea's color changes to brown oolong tea during the baking process. The resulting tea has an amber-colored infusion, a strong taste, and a unique aroma. It has the effect of removing greasiness, aiding digestion, relieving drunkenness, and is particularly suitable for consumption after an oily meal.

See also: History of tea

See also: How to order tea in Chinese

Guanxi Old Street (關西老街)

Guanxi Street was originally called Guanxi Zhuang and was established in 1920. The houses on Guanxi Old Street are mostly two-story buildings with Baroque-style facades. Normally, Old Streets are bustling with visitors during weekends, but we didn't see many when we visited. Here, you can find shops like a century-old bookstore, which is said to have a collection of 3,000 books. There is also a clothing store that uses natural dyes and a teahouse.

You can also explore the historical alley, which is full of memories. This narrow alley, which has existed for more than 100 years, used to be a shortcut to the Dongtai Theatre, where many young people watched movies and shared their love stories. It holds indelible memories of past generations. The aim was to recreate the atmosphere of this narrow alley in today's life, allowing young people to experience its history and enjoy a unique and comfortable walking experience. While walking along this alley, you can see paintings on the ground and stories written on the walls. The theatre building appears quite dilapidated now, but you can find a QR code on the building that links to a video about Guanxi.

Address:

1. Jintai tea Factory:  306新竹縣關西鎮中豐路一段336號錦泰茶業股份有限公司
2. Guanxi Old Street: 306新竹縣關西鎮中正路關西老街

Read More