Tainan Travel: Houbi's Japanese Heritage

Travel date: 2024/06/08

This trip south was filled with the charm of Japanese-era buildings. I tried to find places to see on the Chiayi-Tainan border and stumbled upon Puzi Town. Having lived in Tainan for three years, I had no idea there was such a large area of Japanese buildings nearby. Maybe it was because we rarely visited Chiayi, or I just never checked the small towns around well enough to notice them. 

Sometimes I feel that most tourist spots in Taiwan are related to the Japanese era, with fewer remaining from the Qing Dynasty, as much older structures have been destroyed over time. I never actually thought of traveling to Japan, but I really like those wooden buildings, I feel that it would be a dream future house.

When we arrived at the Japanese dormitories area, there was an event preparing to start later on - a market organized for the Dragon Boat Festival. I'm not sure how busy it is without the market, but I think it would be much quieter as it doesn't seem to have many shops around. Compared to the Japanese dormitories in Chiayi City, these are much less known.

Our next stop was Tainan's Houbi District. We once again visited Jingliao Old Street. We came here once during COVID-19, and it was rainy that day. At that time, I thought it was a boring and not well-known area, but today's feeling was so different! It's actually filled with visitors, and there were shops open, food, and drink - totally different from a few years ago. Traveling during COVID-19 wasn't fun at all.

Even though the weather was supposed to be rainy, we actually got plenty of sunshine. It was noon and pretty hot. It's been two years since moving out of Tainan, and the north feels a lot cooler, so I also had a bit of trouble accepting the heat. We visited the old street, an old drug store, a Dutch well, a rice mill, and later on stopped at an elementary school that had two unique buildings left from Japanese times. We also drove to another place, but the octagonal storage was closed, and the dormitory only opens for students during school time, so there wasn't much to see. 

Check out more information about our Chiayi trip in my other post [LINK].

Check out Qing-Dynasty relics in Houbi in my other post [LINK].

Jingliao Elementary School Wooden Auditorium (菁寮國小木造禮堂)

Jingliao Elementary School, originally named "Jingliao Public School," was established on March 28, 1911, with Yoshikiyoshi Tani from Fukuoka Prefecture, Japan, serving as the first principal. The school initially operated out of two bamboo thatched huts until a new building was completed on October 11, 1911. Classes were then moved to this new facility, and the official opening ceremony was held on February 20, 1912.

In 1941, following changes in Taiwan's education system, it was renamed "Jingliao Elementary School." After World War II, the school underwent several name changes, eventually becoming "Tainan County Houbi Township Jingliao Elementary School" in 1968. In 2010, the name was updated following administrative changes.

The structures at Jingliao Elementary School represent a blend of Taiwanese, Japanese, and post-war architectural styles. The preservation of the wooden hall, office, and flag-raising platform offers a glimpse into the educational and cultural history of the area. The community’s efforts to maintain these historical buildings reflect their commitment to preserving their cultural heritage.

The Jingliao Small Wooden Auditorium, constructed in 1951, is a single-story structure. Diagonal braces on the sides support the walls, and a gable adorns the front.It underwent renovations in 1994 and 2004, reverting to traditional wooden sliding doors. The architectural style is a mix of Japanese and basilica-like rectangular assembly spaces, featuring a sloped roof covered with steel plates.

The wooden office, built in 1956, features detailed pillars on the entrance porch, a rain shelter eave, and a simple, open layout. It was converted into a parent-teacher association room, staff offices, and a teaching equipment room, retaining significant preservation value after 1996. 

The flag-raising platform from the Japanese occupation era remains under lush mahogany trees as a relic of the public school. Legend has it that the original flagpole was dismantled to create weapons during World War II. Built in 1931, the original iron flagpole was replaced with a wooden one after World War II. The platform was actively used until 1982. The base measures 124 cm wide, 107 cm long, and 166 cm high.

After the Jiaxian earthquake in March 2010, the wooden auditorium, offices, and flag-raising platform suffered partial damage. The indoor white plaster walls peeled off, revealing the woven bamboo walls beneath, and these structures are currently under repair. 

The structures at Jingliao Elementary School represent a blend of Taiwanese, Japanese, and post-war architectural styles. The preservation of the wooden hall, office, and flag-raising platform offers a glimpse into the educational and cultural history of the area. The community’s efforts to maintain these historical buildings reflect their commitment to preserving their cultural heritage.

Houbi Elementary School Japanese Dormitory (後壁國小日式宿舍)

Initially constructed to house Japanese teachers, it later accommodated Taiwanese faculty after the Japanese left. By 1991, it was abandoned and fell into disrepair. The principal's dormitory and the teacher's dormitory of Houbi Elementary School had long been dubbed "haunted houses" by students due to their dilapidated state. These buildings remained uninhabited for over 15 years, overgrown with grass and left to decay. However, in 2017, renovation plans were set in motion.

Originally built in 1942 in a traditional Japanese style, the wooden dormitory could not be officially listed as a historical building. Nevertheless, a proposal under the Ministry of Culture's private old building plan brought the renovation closer to reality. After approval, 70% of the renovation funds were subsidized by the Ministry of Culture and the Municipal Cultural Bureau, while the remaining 30%, totaling 1.7 million yuan, was self-raised by teachers and students. With materials purchased, the two buildings opposite the entrance of Xiaodong Elementary School have been successfully renovated.

Recognizing its cultural value, the dormitory underwent restoration funded by Taiwan's Ministry of Culture and reopened in 2019 under the management of the Taiwan Puyuan Cultural and Educational Development Association.

The dormitory highlights classic Japanese wooden construction techniques, with a particular emphasis on the use of cypress and other prized wood materials. Its design, characterized by simplicity and elegance, includes sliding wooden doors and a tranquil ambiance typical of Japanese architecture. Despite not being officially designated as a historic building, the dormitory is a valuable cultural asset. It serves as a living museum, providing insights into the architectural and cultural exchange between Japan and Taiwan during the colonial period.

Address:

1. Jingliao Elemntary School: 731台南市後壁區282號

2. Houbi Elementary School: 731台南市後壁區後壁國小日式宿舍

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Tainan Travel: Houbi's Qing Dynasty Treasures

Travel date: 2024/06/08

This trip south was filled with the charm of Japanese-era buildings. I tried to find places to see on the Chiayi-Tainan border and stumbled upon Puzi Town. Having lived in Tainan for three years, I had no idea there was such a large area of Japanese buildings nearby. Maybe it was because we rarely visited Chiayi, or I just never checked the small towns around well enough to notice them. 

Sometimes I feel that most tourist spots in Taiwan are related to the Japanese era, with fewer remaining from the Qing Dynasty, as much older structures have been destroyed over time. I never actually thought of traveling to Japan, but I really like those wooden buildings, I feel that it would be a dream future house.

When we arrived at the Japanese dormitories area, there was an event preparing to start later on - a market organized for the Dragon Boat Festival. I'm not sure how busy it is without the market, but I think it would be much quieter as it doesn't seem to have many shops around. Compared to the Japanese dormitories in Chiayi City, these are much less known.

Our next stop was Tainan's Houbi District. We once again visited Jingliao Old Street. We came here once during COVID-19, and it was rainy that day. At that time, I thought it was a boring and not well-known area, but today's feeling was so different! It's actually filled with visitors, and there were shops open, food, and drink - totally different from a few years ago. Traveling during COVID-19 wasn't fun at all.

Even though the weather was supposed to be rainy, we actually got plenty of sunshine. It was noon and pretty hot. It's been two years since moving out of Tainan, and the north feels a lot cooler, so I also had a bit of trouble accepting the heat. We visited the old street, an old drug store, a Dutch well, a rice mill, and later on stopped at an elementary school that had two unique buildings left from Japanese times. We also drove to another place, but the octagonal storage was closed, and the dormitory only opens for students during school time, so there wasn't much to see. 

Check out more information about our Chiayi trip in my other post [LINK].

Check out Japanese-era relics in Houbi in my other post [LINK].

Jingliao Old Street (菁寮老街)

Jingliao was a small village in the mid-Qing Dynasty, known for its dyeing and weaving crops. It served as an important halfway station on the ancient official road between Fucheng (Tainan) and Zhuluo County (Chiayi). It became the most prosperous settlement along the Bazhang River and was commonly known as "Beishi Street." During the Japanese occupation of Taiwan, the street was renovated, and the buildings facing the street were converted into commercial street houses.

The Jingliao Old Street in Houbi District is a historic street that dates back to the Qing Dynasty. It's known for its well-preserved traditional architecture and is a popular destination for tourists interested in experiencing Taiwan's rich cultural heritage. The street is lined with old brick buildings, wooden houses, and storefronts that have been restored to their original condition. You can explore the narrow alleyways, which are filled with shops selling traditional handicrafts, snacks, and souvenirs.

One of the main attractions of Jingliao Old Street is the Jingliao Temple, a Taoist temple dedicated to the god of war, Guan Yu. The temple dates back to the Qing Dynasty and is known for its intricate wood carvings and colorful murals.

Another popular attraction is the Jingliao Ecological Park, which is located just outside of the old street area. The park offers a chance to explore the local flora and fauna, including rare bird species and freshwater turtles.

Jingliao Jin Dexing Pharmacy (菁寮金德興藥舖)

Jingliao Jin Dexing Pharmacy, also known as the Jingliao Ruan Family Ancient House, is a traditional wooden loft-style street house on Jingliao Old Street. It was moved to Jingliao in 1910 and is adorned with exquisite craftsmanship. It is also recognized as one of the top 100 scenic spots in southern Taiwan. In 2005, it was registered as a monument in Tainan City.

The building has changed ownership several times. It originally belonged to a prominent Lin family in Dingtan Village, Lucao Township, Chiayi County. It was later sold to Xu Qian in Houbi. In 1910, the building was dismantled and relocated to its current site in Jingliao, where it was sold to Ruan. Ruan opened a Chinese pharmacy, and the building also became the ancestral residence of the Ruan family. The plaque above the gate beam, "Jin Dexing Qian Ji," was inscribed by the calligrapher Jing Tang in 1925. One of the paintings on the wall, "Twelve Precepts of Tao Zhugong," was written by the owner of the house, Ruan Qian, in 1917.

Bakery Shop (稻稻來)

Next to the ancient house, there's a bakery shop where you can buy freshly baked bread. The aroma around the shop is incredible. Inside, you can also see some ancient artifacts and pictures.

According to a story I found, a man named Wu developed rice bread and taught the community how to make it. Master Wu, born into a poor farming family, began his apprenticeship in his teens, forming an inseparable bond with baking.

With a solid foundation in baking, he started his own business in Baihe after serving in the military, gaining fame with his traditional Chinese wedding cakes and lotus seed pastries. His venture into rice bread was inspired by a divine dream, leading him to help farmers and selflessly teach the community, tirelessly promoting rice bread.

Currently, the rice bread comes in one size, with various flavors priced between 120 and 150 NTD. Made from ground Taiwanese rice, the rice flour lacks gluten, so it is mixed with lotus root powder to provide the necessary texture. No chemicals or artificial flavors are added. Besides rice bread, Master Wu has also developed rice cakes and rice rolls, but only the bread is available at Dao Dao Lai.

Jingliao Wumile Community (無米樂菁寮嫁妝老街)

Jingliao Wumile Community is located in Jingliao Village, Houbi District. The name "Jingliao" traces back to the Qing Dynasty when the area was part of Xiaciaodong North Fort, Chiayi County under the Taiwan Prefecture. The local population largely cultivated "Qingzai" (a type of dye tree), which significantly improved their livelihoods. This widespread cultivation led to the name "Qingzailiao," which eventually became "Jingliao Village." Positioned as a critical midpoint on the north-south transportation route and the bustling Yan Shui Port settlement, Jingliao was a vital junction for transporting and selling goods to Zhuluo County, making it one of the earliest economic hubs in the region.

From the late Qing Dynasty to the 1950s, Beishi Street in Jingliao not only thrived on industries like indigo dyeing, rice farming, and straw weaving but also became famous for its shops selling dowry items. The street was lined with a variety of shops, each industry represented by multiple stores, such as jewelry shops, wedding cake stores, tailoring shops, fabric stores, quilt shops, shoe stores, bicycle shops, furniture factories, taverns, tea houses, eateries, guest houses, rice mills, clock shops, beauty salons, ice fruit stores, barber shops, blacksmith shops, lead bucket shops, wooden barrel makers, grain stores, theaters, open-air theaters, Western medical clinics, Chinese medicine pharmacies, hardware stores, grocery stores, department stores, brick factories, construction contractors, large vegetable markets, credit unions, light railways, public baths, and more.

The 2005 documentary "Wumile" brought nationwide attention to Jingliao, highlighting the lives of local farmers like Kun Bin Bo, Huang Ming Bo, and Wen Lin Bo. This exposure helped transform the community into a rural cultural tourism hub, steadily establishing Jingliao's resources in "people," "culture," "land," "industry," and "scenery" while also focusing on elder care responsibilities. Community members have contributed their time and money to shape a beautiful blueprint for their hometown, turning Jingliao’s rural lifestyle into a cultural tourism attraction and fostering rural regeneration.

Dutch Well (荷蘭井)

According to village memories, this Dutch Well has been around for a long time. In the past, local mothers would carry their children to the well to do laundry and use the well water for washing their faces and hands. The Dutch well, believed to have been dug during the Dutch colonial period, is five meters deep, making it a familiar landmark for Jingliao villagers.

Next to the ancient Dutch well stands a traditional Minnan three-section building belonging to the Huang family, who have lived in Jingliao for generations and now welcome guests to stay. Given its proximity to the well, the homestay has been aptly named "Dutch Well Spring Homestay."

Fushia Rice Mill (福家碾米廠)

Fushia Rice Mill is a nearly century-old traditional rice mill, now in its fourth generation of operation. Decades ago, rice mills were common, as they were essential for family income. However, with changing times, the availability of repair parts for rice mills has dwindled, large rice mills have replaced traditional ones, and imported rice has overshadowed local Taiwanese rice. Knowledgeable rice millers have become rare, yet they are highly respected for their skills. Recognizing issues by sound, they know how to clean, maintain, and repair these traditional machines, which are now considered invaluable. Fushia Rice Mill's machinery, made entirely of durable cypress wood, offers a rare glimpse into early Taiwanese rural life. 

Address:

1. Jingliao Jin Dexing Pharmacy: 731台南市後壁區191號

2. Bakery Shop 稻稻來: 731台南市後壁區墨林里189號

3. Dutch Well: 台南市後壁區

4. Fushia Rice Mill: 台南市後壁區菁寮里菁寮11號

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Exploring the Cultural and Historical Riches of Puzi City

Travel date: 2024/06/08

This trip south was filled with the charm of Japanese-era buildings. I tried to find places to see on the Chiayi-Tainan border and stumbled upon Puzi Town. Having lived in Tainan for three years, I had no idea there was such a large area of Japanese buildings nearby. Maybe it was because we rarely visited Chiayi, or I just never checked the small towns around well enough to notice them. 

Sometimes I feel that most tourist spots in Taiwan are related to the Japanese era, with fewer remaining from the Qing Dynasty, as much older structures have been destroyed over time. I never actually thought of traveling to Japan, but I really like those wooden buildings, I feel that it would be a dream future house.

When we arrived at the Japanese dormitories area, there was an event preparing to start later on - a market organized for the Dragon Boat Festival. I'm not sure how busy it is without the market, but I think it would be much quieter as it doesn't seem to have many shops around. Compared to the Japanese dormitories in Chiayi City, these are much less known.

Our next stop was Tainan's Houbi District. We once again visited Jingliao Old Street. We came here once during COVID-19, and it was rainy that day. At that time, I thought it was a boring and not well-known area, but today's feeling was so different! It's actually filled with visitors, and there were shops open, food, and drink - totally different from a few years ago. Traveling during COVID-19 wasn't fun at all.

Even though the weather was supposed to be rainy, we actually got plenty of sunshine. It was noon and pretty hot. It's been two years since moving out of Tainan, and the north feels a lot cooler, so I also had a bit of trouble accepting the heat. We visited the old street, an old drug store, a Dutch well, a rice mill, and later on stopped at an elementary school that had two unique buildings left from Japanese times. We also drove to another place, but the octagonal storage was closed, and the dormitory only opens for students during school time, so there wasn't much to see. 

Check out Japanese-era relics in Houbi in my other post [LINK].

Check out Qing-Dynasty relics in Houbi in my other post [LINK].

Puzi City (朴子市)

Formerly known as Pho-a-kha (樸仔脚), Puzi City (朴子市) is a county-administered city in Chiayi County, Taiwan. In 1920, during Japanese rule, it was renamed Puzi Street (朴子街) and governed under Tōseki District, Tainan Prefecture. This captivating destination, steeped in history and cultural heritage, has evolved from a modest settlement into a central hub in the coastal region. 

Puzi City, known in Taiwanese as Phoh-tsú-tshī, is located in western Chiayi County and has grown around the temple dedicated to Mazu, fostering its development.

In 1945, the area was reorganized as Puzi Town in Tainan County. It was incorporated into Chiayi County in 1950, and in 1992, following the relocation of the Chiayi County Council, it was upgraded to a county-administered city. The establishment of the Chiayi HSR station and BRT has increased commuter traffic to Chiayi City.

The settlement was recorded in Dutch documents as "Causieu". During the Qing Dynasty, it was renamed Puzi Jiao. The area was initially sparsely populated with a few farmhouses. In 1682, a statue of Mazu was brought from Meizhou and enshrined in Puzi, leading to the establishment of the Peitian Temple. The town developed around this temple, which remains central to the city's identity.

Key historical events and developments:

- 1898: Establishment of Puzi language school

- 1901: Puzi Street uprising led by Huang Maosong

- 1911: Puzi Line of the Suantou sugar factory railway opened

- 1934: Construction of the Puzi Water Tower, a significant landmark

- 1945: Post-WWII reorganization into Tainan County's Puzi Town

- 1950: Integration into Chiayi County

- 1992: Upgraded to a county-administered city

Puzi Water Tower (朴子水道配水塔)

The Puzi Water Distribution Tower, also known as the "Puzi Water Tower" or "Shuidaotou," is a public water supply facility located in Puzi City. It was established in 1933 during the Japanese occupation under the administration of Huang Madian, the then mayor of Puzi Street, and completed in 1936. This structure played a crucial role in improving the drinking water hygiene for Puzi Street residents at the time. Due to its historical and cultural significance, it was designated as a cultural asset in 2014.

Initially registered as a historical building on September 7, 2006, it was later designated as a county-designated historic site on November 4, 2014. Today, it stands as an important landscape landmark in Puzi City.

Located at the east end of Puzi Market and south of Niuchou Creek (now Puzi Creek), the water distribution tower was built to address the poor public health conditions and lack of an established epidemic prevention system during the Japanese colonial period. Residents primarily relied on wells for water. In 1933, Huang Madian began constructing a facility to purify and distribute water from sewers. The tower was one of several structures, including intake wells, sand slide wells, raw water pump wells, pump chambers, distribution wells, sedimentation tanks, filtration tanks, and more. The entire project was completed in 1936.

However, due to sedimentation and pollution, groundwater wells were later used. In 1974, after the merger with the Taiwan Provincial Water Supply Company, water was sourced from the Wushantou Reservoir.

The tower is built in a European style using concrete RC structure. It stands 35 meters high and can hold 450 tons of water. The structure comprises three parts:

- Top: Decorative tower with a hexagonal dome shape.

- Middle: Circular water tank.

- Bottom: RC structure with four ring beams and ten pillars, reinforced with radial mesh columns.

The Puzi Waterway Water Distribution Tower, once the tallest building in Puzi, became a landmark and a significant tourist attraction. It also served as a lookout point accessible via an escalator. Currently, the tower is not open to the public due to structural concerns, including cracks in the columns. Restoration efforts are planned to preserve this historical structure.

Chiayi Shuidaotou Cultural and Creative Settlement (水道頭文創聚落)

Chiayi Shuidaotou Cultural and Creative Settlement located in Puzi City is the first cultural and creative settlement point in Chiayi County. The core building of this settlement is the Shuidaotou, also known as the Puzi Water Distribution Tower. Built in 1936 during the Japanese era, this structure served as a public water supply facility. 

Adjacent to the tower is a group of Japanese-style buildings that once served as residences for police officers and teachers during the Japanese era. These buildings now form the Chiayi Shuidaotou Cultural and Creative Settlement, the largest cluster of Japanese-style architecture along the Chiayi coast. Currently managed by the Chiayi County Cultural and Tourism Bureau, the settlement hosts various cultural and creative workshops, exhibitions, and interactive performances.

Hidden in the bustling alleys of Puzi City, the Puzi Waterway Japanese Dormitory District retains a rich Japanese atmosphere. This area includes the old principal's dormitory of Dongshi Junior High School at Shantong Road 14 and extends to numbers 16 and 18, as well as eight other dormitories along Zhongzheng Road. These buildings served as police and teacher residences during the Japanese era.

The area has been renovated and planned to enhance its historical and cultural value.

The area is filled with Japanese-style features such as stone lanterns and traditional Japanese gardens. The dormitory area now hosts various cultural and creative stores offering handmade food, crafts, and beverages. It's an ideal spot for those who appreciate quiet Japanese-style environments, perfect for a peaceful date or visit.

The settlement is open to visitors from Wednesday to Sunday, 11 AM to 5 PM, and offers various cultural and creative experiences. The space includes a permanent exhibition area and public interaction zones. 

The renovation project took nearly four years and cost 75 million yuan to refurbish the first batch of Japanese-style dormitories. It successfully completed investment promotion and officially opened to the public in February 2018. The types of stores that have established themselves in the Shuidaotou Cultural and Creative Cluster include pottery, life crafts, local culture and history, coffee, and light food establishments. 

Chiayi County Culture and Tourism Director Xu Youren noted that following the renovation of the first batch of Japanese-style dormitories, the county government secured an additional 20 million yuan from the Tourism Bureau of the Ministry of Transportation. This funding is intended to beautify the surrounding area of the dormitories, enhance the benefits of the cluster, and promote Puzi's transformation. The aim is to make the atmosphere of the Japanese living space a memorable part of modern life.

Puzi Embroidery Cultural Hall (朴子市刺繡文化館)

In the early days, Puzi City in Chiayi County was a major hub for the embroidery industry. The prosperity of that time is reflected in the large number of embroidered products exported from Puzi City, including Eight Immortals embroidery, door curtains, pillowcases, bed sheets, glove puppet costumes, Taiwanese opera costumes, bridal trousseaus, and more. These products were sold all over Taiwan. To preserve and promote this outstanding local cultural feature, the Puzi City Office has been dedicated to the development of embroidery since 2002. They not only established the Chiayi County Embroidery Culture Association and offered embroidery training courses but also built the Embroidery Culture Museum with the support of the Ministry of Culture.

The Embroidery Culture Museum was originally the office space of the local ship crew and was repurposed from the old wooden Japanese dormitory buildings, giving it a historical charm that aligns with the spirit of embroidery culture. The museum documents the heyday of the embroidery industry in Puzi City and houses many meticulously crafted, breathtaking embroidery works. Through interactive learning about the entire industry, the Embroidery Culture Museum revitalizes the rich local culture, integrates community activities, promotes cultural tourism, and has become an attractive tourist destination.

Dongshi Shrine (東石神社)

Dongshi Shrine was a shrine located on Puzi Street, Dongshi County, Tainan Prefecture during the Japanese colonial period in Taiwan. It was established in 1936. The original site is now Puzi Art Park in Puzi City, Chiayi County. The shrine remnants such as the torii gate, komainu and shrine of Dongshi Shrine were listed as Chiayi County historical buildings on December 17, 2019.

Dongshi Shrine is a shrine guarding Dongshi County. It's located on the east side of Puzi City. The west side of the shrine is adjacent to the water source of Puzi Waterway. It started construction in January 1936 and was completed with a town hall ceremony on September 10 of the same year. On July 28, 1944, Toishi Shrine was upgraded to a rural shrine.

After World War II, the Shrine was turned into a coastal patrol camp and the shrine hall was demolished. After the withdrawal of the national army in 1987, it was reorganized into Puzi Art Park.

In Japanese named Tōseki Jinjya／とうせきじんじゃ. The officiating deity was Amaterasu, the three pioneer gods (Okuni Tamomei, Oki Nomei, and Shaoyan Mingmei), and Prince Nohisa of Kitashirakawa Palace.

Address:

1. Chiayi Shuidaotou Cultural and Creative Settlement: 613嘉義縣朴子市中正路17號

2. Puzi Embroidery Cultural Hall: 613嘉義縣朴子市文明路10號

3. Donshi Shrine:613嘉義縣朴子市東石神社遺址

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