How is Life After Typhoon Gaemi in Taiwan?

July 24th was supposed to be the last day of our son's kindergarten, but due to Typhoon Gaemi, everything was shut down. We will have to go back another time to collect his things. 

Fortunately, the typhoon wasn't very strong in Miaoli, even though its path was just a few kilometers north of where we live. Other parts of the island weren't as lucky, with some areas experiencing over one meter of flooding. Many places in Kaohsiung, Pingtung, Tainan, Chiayi, Yunlin, Nantou, Changhua, Hualien, and Yilan were inundated. Yilan and Kaohsiung were the worst hit, with the highest rainfall recorded. Watching the news, it looked really bad, with cars floating around and homes, even apartment garages, flooded. There were a few casualties (10 at the time I wrote this), which, considering the damage, seems surprisingly low—thankfully.

We didn't suffer much impact other than being stuck at home for a few days. We had two days off, which, of course, doesn't change much for me as cooking and cleaning never take a break. Recently, our son received UNO cards as a gift, and we spent about four hours a day playing. Sunday finally looked better, with the forecast showing a sunny day. Some areas of Taiwan still had days off even on Monday, July 29th, highlighting how severe the flooding was this time. Water reservoirs quickly refilled, so I hope we won't be facing water shortages this year. We also checked out Yongheshan Reservoir, which looked really lovely.

The damage from the typhoon rose to a few billion TWD, which is enormous. We quickly saw the impact, as even on Monday, there were no eggs and barely any vegetables in stores, despite visiting more than one. Luckily, I had prepared for this, so we aren't lacking food. However, I always seem to have bad luck; when there are no eggs available, I get cake orders that I have to refuse. Oh, my luck... The cake business is already challenging enough. Is everyone getting healthier these days, or are people just saving money on other things? I haven't raised prices, but the cost of ingredients keeps growing. I understand that cakes aren't a necessity.

We also did some accounting, and found that we’re spending nearly twice as much on food as we did last year, so inflation isn't that small.

Typhoon Gaemi was the strongest in eight years, and watching the news, it was clear how intense the rain and wind were. It's the biggest storm since I moved here in 2017. In recent years, typhoons have barely hit Taiwan, with more activity only picking up last year. However, we lived in the north then, and typhoons usually affected the south, so it was unusual to see this typhoon going north and passing through the island.

I hope everyone is well and that the damage will be repaired soon. I heard about the government offering subsidies to households where the water was over 50cm high, but compared to the overall damage, it doesn't seem like much.

Despite the tragedy, some people found ways to have fun during those days. Many videos circulated of people paddleboarding, swimming on their mattresses, playing with remote control boats, and one man playing the piano calmly in his flooded living room. The only real danger was a pet crocodile roaming around Chiayi, but at least it loved its owner and swam back home soon after.

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Miaoli Travel: Tongxiao Qiumao Garden and Salt Museum

Travel Date: 2024/07/13 

Once again, we found ourselves in Tongxiao, ready to explore a few notable spots along the way, including Tongxiao Beach, Qiumao Garden, and the Salt Museum, as well as some delectable local food in town.

Check out first part of this post - 2024 Tongxiao Sand Sculptures Art Festival [LINK]

Qiumao Garden (秋茂園)

Next, we visited an unusual park filled with various clay sculptures, including depictions of people, animals, buildings, and other themes. The park also features pavilions, seats, and other rest facilities. Known as Qiumao Garden, this park was opened in 1975 by Huang Qiumao, who was drawn to the coastline, beaches, and seawater of Tongxiao Town. He built Qiumao Garden to promote local prosperity. Although there’s a small parking area, the main entrance is elsewhere, so many people park along the road for convenience. The park was nearly deserted, and aside from the sculptures and trees, there wasn’t much to see. If it hadn’t been on our route, we probably wouldn’t have visited.

Taiyen Museum - The Way of Salt (臺鹽通霄觀光園區 

 - 臺鹽通霄精鹽廠)

Our final stop was the Salt Museum. The Salt Factory has been operational since its establishment in 1964. In recent years, to boost tourism, the factory has added facilities such as the "Ocean Hot Spring Footbath Stream," "Yo Zong-Susha Statue," and "Exhibition and Sales Center." In 2011, the "Taiyan Tongxiao Tourist Park" was established. The area is quite large, featuring a shop selling local products and a restaurant. It was crowded, and parking was a challenge. I’m not sure why it’s so popular because there isn’t much to see. However, many elderly visitors enjoyed soaking their feet in the water, and kids were playing around. The museum offers insights into salt production and different types of salt.

Finally, we cooled down with some delicious ice cream in Houlong before concluding our adventure.

Address:

1. Qiumao Garden 秋茂園: 357苗栗縣通霄鎮通灣里20-1號

2. Salt Museum: 357苗栗縣通霄鎮內島122號

3. Ice Cream: 35641苗栗縣後龍鎮中山路67號

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Miaoli Travel: 2024 Tongxiao Sand Sculptures Art Festival

Travel Date: 2024/07/13

Once again, we found ourselves in Tongxiao, ready to explore a few notable spots along the way, including Tongxiao Beach, Qiumao Garden, and the Salt Museum, as well as some delectable local food in town. 

Check out second part of the post - Qiumao Garden & Salt Museum [LINK]

Tongxiao Beach: Sand Sculptures Art Festival (通霄海水浴場)

Despite the blazing heat, we made our way to Tongxiao Beach to attend the inaugural Sand Sculptures Art Festival, which has just begun and will continue until early September. This festival is attracting visitors to Miaoli’s seaside, showcasing 15 grand sculptures that celebrate Miaoli culture through local myths and legends. Notable works include an impressive traditional Hakka mansion, a dragon climbing a bridge, statues of the Goddess Matsu, and the Door Gods Qianliyan and Shunfeng’er. At night, the sculptures come to life with a vibrant multi-colored light show, creating perfect photo moments. Tungshiau Beach, the largest seaside park in Taiwan, boasts smooth, pristine white sand that contrasts beautifully with the deep blue sea, providing breathtaking sunrises and sunsets.

The beach isn't the only attraction—there’s also a shaded park and a playground for children. We even encountered an elderly man with a horse, though capturing a photo was tricky as the horse kept moving.

This year's theme, "Children of the Mountains Meet the Sea," features large-scale sand sculptures that highlight Hakka culture. The festival includes interactive installations, weekend markets, cultural performances, and workshops for all ages. Renowned sand sculptors from Japan, South Korea, and Taiwan, including world champions, will showcase their exceptional skills. Visitors can observe the creative process and support the artists. Plus, the sea offers a refreshing respite, and the sculptures provide endless photo opportunities.

Foods

Around noon, we searched for food in town using Google Maps, which revealed many tempting options in Tongxiao. At 通霄幸福食堂 we tried a unique beef noodle soup with a Sichuan pepper flavor that I haven’t encountered elsewhere—it was delicious! Conversely, the lu rou fan was quite bland, so unless you prefer mild flavors, I wouldn’t recommend it. We also sampled stinky tofu 廟口阿嬷臭豆腐, which is very popular here with over 2000 reviews. Unfortunately, it wasn’t to my taste. The flavor was similar to what we had in Taichung with garlic soy sauce, but I prefer the super crispy deep-fried stinky tofu.

Despite keeping hydrated, I still managed to get sunburned quickly. After marveling at the sculptures, we headed back north, making a few interesting stops along the way. We stumbled upon a Totoro sculpture, which was a surprise!

Address:

1. Tongxiao Beach: 357苗栗縣通霄鎮海濱路41-1號

2. Beef Noodles 通霄幸福食堂: 357苗栗縣通霄鎮中正路69號

3. Stinky Tofu 廟口阿嬷臭豆腐: 357苗栗縣通霄鎮中正路20號

4. Totoro 龍貓公車站: 357苗栗縣通霄鎮龍貓公車站

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Tainan Travel: Houbi's Japanese Heritage

Travel date: 2024/06/08

This trip south was filled with the charm of Japanese-era buildings. I tried to find places to see on the Chiayi-Tainan border and stumbled upon Puzi Town. Having lived in Tainan for three years, I had no idea there was such a large area of Japanese buildings nearby. Maybe it was because we rarely visited Chiayi, or I just never checked the small towns around well enough to notice them. 

Sometimes I feel that most tourist spots in Taiwan are related to the Japanese era, with fewer remaining from the Qing Dynasty, as much older structures have been destroyed over time. I never actually thought of traveling to Japan, but I really like those wooden buildings, I feel that it would be a dream future house.

When we arrived at the Japanese dormitories area, there was an event preparing to start later on - a market organized for the Dragon Boat Festival. I'm not sure how busy it is without the market, but I think it would be much quieter as it doesn't seem to have many shops around. Compared to the Japanese dormitories in Chiayi City, these are much less known.

Our next stop was Tainan's Houbi District. We once again visited Jingliao Old Street. We came here once during COVID-19, and it was rainy that day. At that time, I thought it was a boring and not well-known area, but today's feeling was so different! It's actually filled with visitors, and there were shops open, food, and drink - totally different from a few years ago. Traveling during COVID-19 wasn't fun at all.

Even though the weather was supposed to be rainy, we actually got plenty of sunshine. It was noon and pretty hot. It's been two years since moving out of Tainan, and the north feels a lot cooler, so I also had a bit of trouble accepting the heat. We visited the old street, an old drug store, a Dutch well, a rice mill, and later on stopped at an elementary school that had two unique buildings left from Japanese times. We also drove to another place, but the octagonal storage was closed, and the dormitory only opens for students during school time, so there wasn't much to see. 

Check out more information about our Chiayi trip in my other post [LINK].

Check out Qing-Dynasty relics in Houbi in my other post [LINK].

Jingliao Elementary School Wooden Auditorium (菁寮國小木造禮堂)

Jingliao Elementary School, originally named "Jingliao Public School," was established on March 28, 1911, with Yoshikiyoshi Tani from Fukuoka Prefecture, Japan, serving as the first principal. The school initially operated out of two bamboo thatched huts until a new building was completed on October 11, 1911. Classes were then moved to this new facility, and the official opening ceremony was held on February 20, 1912.

In 1941, following changes in Taiwan's education system, it was renamed "Jingliao Elementary School." After World War II, the school underwent several name changes, eventually becoming "Tainan County Houbi Township Jingliao Elementary School" in 1968. In 2010, the name was updated following administrative changes.

The structures at Jingliao Elementary School represent a blend of Taiwanese, Japanese, and post-war architectural styles. The preservation of the wooden hall, office, and flag-raising platform offers a glimpse into the educational and cultural history of the area. The community’s efforts to maintain these historical buildings reflect their commitment to preserving their cultural heritage.

The Jingliao Small Wooden Auditorium, constructed in 1951, is a single-story structure. Diagonal braces on the sides support the walls, and a gable adorns the front.It underwent renovations in 1994 and 2004, reverting to traditional wooden sliding doors. The architectural style is a mix of Japanese and basilica-like rectangular assembly spaces, featuring a sloped roof covered with steel plates.

The wooden office, built in 1956, features detailed pillars on the entrance porch, a rain shelter eave, and a simple, open layout. It was converted into a parent-teacher association room, staff offices, and a teaching equipment room, retaining significant preservation value after 1996. 

The flag-raising platform from the Japanese occupation era remains under lush mahogany trees as a relic of the public school. Legend has it that the original flagpole was dismantled to create weapons during World War II. Built in 1931, the original iron flagpole was replaced with a wooden one after World War II. The platform was actively used until 1982. The base measures 124 cm wide, 107 cm long, and 166 cm high.

After the Jiaxian earthquake in March 2010, the wooden auditorium, offices, and flag-raising platform suffered partial damage. The indoor white plaster walls peeled off, revealing the woven bamboo walls beneath, and these structures are currently under repair. 

The structures at Jingliao Elementary School represent a blend of Taiwanese, Japanese, and post-war architectural styles. The preservation of the wooden hall, office, and flag-raising platform offers a glimpse into the educational and cultural history of the area. The community’s efforts to maintain these historical buildings reflect their commitment to preserving their cultural heritage.

Houbi Elementary School Japanese Dormitory (後壁國小日式宿舍)

Initially constructed to house Japanese teachers, it later accommodated Taiwanese faculty after the Japanese left. By 1991, it was abandoned and fell into disrepair. The principal's dormitory and the teacher's dormitory of Houbi Elementary School had long been dubbed "haunted houses" by students due to their dilapidated state. These buildings remained uninhabited for over 15 years, overgrown with grass and left to decay. However, in 2017, renovation plans were set in motion.

Originally built in 1942 in a traditional Japanese style, the wooden dormitory could not be officially listed as a historical building. Nevertheless, a proposal under the Ministry of Culture's private old building plan brought the renovation closer to reality. After approval, 70% of the renovation funds were subsidized by the Ministry of Culture and the Municipal Cultural Bureau, while the remaining 30%, totaling 1.7 million yuan, was self-raised by teachers and students. With materials purchased, the two buildings opposite the entrance of Xiaodong Elementary School have been successfully renovated.

Recognizing its cultural value, the dormitory underwent restoration funded by Taiwan's Ministry of Culture and reopened in 2019 under the management of the Taiwan Puyuan Cultural and Educational Development Association.

The dormitory highlights classic Japanese wooden construction techniques, with a particular emphasis on the use of cypress and other prized wood materials. Its design, characterized by simplicity and elegance, includes sliding wooden doors and a tranquil ambiance typical of Japanese architecture. Despite not being officially designated as a historic building, the dormitory is a valuable cultural asset. It serves as a living museum, providing insights into the architectural and cultural exchange between Japan and Taiwan during the colonial period.

Address:

1. Jingliao Elemntary School: 731台南市後壁區282號

2. Houbi Elementary School: 731台南市後壁區後壁國小日式宿舍

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