July 1, 2024

Tainan travel: Houbi's Japanese Heritage


Travel date: 2024/06/08

This trip south was filled with the charm of Japanese-era buildings. I tried to find places to see on the Chiayi-Tainan border and stumbled upon Puzi Town. Having lived in Tainan for three years, I had no idea there was such a large area of Japanese buildings nearby. Maybe it was because we rarely visited Chiayi, or I just never checked the small towns around well enough to notice them. 
Sometimes I feel that most tourist spots in Taiwan are related to the Japanese era, with fewer remaining from the Qing Dynasty, as much older structures have been destroyed over time. I never actually thought of traveling to Japan, but I really like those wooden buildings, I feel that it would be a dream future house.
When we arrived at the Japanese dormitories area, there was an event preparing to start later on - a market organized for the Dragon Boat Festival. I'm not sure how busy it is without the market, but I think it would be much quieter as it doesn't seem to have many shops around. Compared to the Japanese dormitories in Chiayi City, these are much less known.

Our next stop was Tainan's Houbi District. We once again visited Jingliao Old Street. We came here once during COVID-19, and it was rainy that day. At that time, I thought it was a boring and not well-known area, but today's feeling was so different! It's actually filled with visitors, and there were shops open, food, and drink - totally different from a few years ago. Traveling during COVID-19 wasn't fun at all.
Even though the weather was supposed to be rainy, we actually got plenty of sunshine. It was noon and pretty hot. It's been two years since moving out of Tainan, and the north feels a lot cooler, so I also had a bit of trouble accepting the heat. We visited the old street, an old drug store, a Dutch well, a rice mill, and later on stopped at an elementary school that had two unique buildings left from Japanese times. We also drove to another place, but the octagonal storage was closed, and the dormitory only opens for students during school time, so there wasn't much to see. 

Check out more information about our Chiayi trip in my other post [LINK].
Check out Qing-Dynasty relics in Houbi in my other post [LINK].

Jingliao Elementary School Wooden Auditorium (菁寮國小木造禮堂)

Jingliao Elementary School, originally named "Jingliao Public School," was established on March 28, 1911, with Yoshikiyoshi Tani from Fukuoka Prefecture, Japan, serving as the first principal. The school initially operated out of two bamboo thatched huts until a new building was completed on October 11, 1911. Classes were then moved to this new facility, and the official opening ceremony was held on February 20, 1912.
In 1941, following changes in Taiwan's education system, it was renamed "Jingliao Elementary School." After World War II, the school underwent several name changes, eventually becoming "Tainan County Houbi Township Jingliao Elementary School" in 1968. In 2010, the name was updated following administrative changes.
The structures at Jingliao Elementary School represent a blend of Taiwanese, Japanese, and post-war architectural styles. The preservation of the wooden hall, office, and flag-raising platform offers a glimpse into the educational and cultural history of the area. The community’s efforts to maintain these historical buildings reflect their commitment to preserving their cultural heritage.

The Jingliao Small Wooden Auditorium, constructed in 1951, is a single-story structure. Diagonal braces on the sides support the walls, and a gable adorns the front.It underwent renovations in 1994 and 2004, reverting to traditional wooden sliding doors. The architectural style is a mix of Japanese and basilica-like rectangular assembly spaces, featuring a sloped roof covered with steel plates.
The wooden office, built in 1956, features detailed pillars on the entrance porch, a rain shelter eave, and a simple, open layout. It was converted into a parent-teacher association room, staff offices, and a teaching equipment room, retaining significant preservation value after 1996. 
The flag-raising platform from the Japanese occupation era remains under lush mahogany trees as a relic of the public school. Legend has it that the original flagpole was dismantled to create weapons during World War II. Built in 1931, the original iron flagpole was replaced with a wooden one after World War II. The platform was actively used until 1982. The base measures 124 cm wide, 107 cm long, and 166 cm high.

After the Jiaxian earthquake in March 2010, the wooden auditorium, offices, and flag-raising platform suffered partial damage. The indoor white plaster walls peeled off, revealing the woven bamboo walls beneath, and these structures are currently under repair. 
The structures at Jingliao Elementary School represent a blend of Taiwanese, Japanese, and post-war architectural styles. The preservation of the wooden hall, office, and flag-raising platform offers a glimpse into the educational and cultural history of the area. The community’s efforts to maintain these historical buildings reflect their commitment to preserving their cultural heritage.






Houbi Elementary School Japanese Dormitory (後壁國小日式宿舍)

Initially constructed to house Japanese teachers, it later accommodated Taiwanese faculty after the Japanese left. By 1991, it was abandoned and fell into disrepair. The principal's dormitory and the teacher's dormitory of Houbi Elementary School had long been dubbed "haunted houses" by students due to their dilapidated state. These buildings remained uninhabited for over 15 years, overgrown with grass and left to decay. However, in 2017, renovation plans were set in motion.

Originally built in 1942 in a traditional Japanese style, the wooden dormitory could not be officially listed as a historical building. Nevertheless, a proposal under the Ministry of Culture's private old building plan brought the renovation closer to reality. After approval, 70% of the renovation funds were subsidized by the Ministry of Culture and the Municipal Cultural Bureau, while the remaining 30%, totaling 1.7 million yuan, was self-raised by teachers and students. With materials purchased, the two buildings opposite the entrance of Xiaodong Elementary School have been successfully renovated.
Recognizing its cultural value, the dormitory underwent restoration funded by Taiwan's Ministry of Culture and reopened in 2019 under the management of the Taiwan Puyuan Cultural and Educational Development Association.

The dormitory highlights classic Japanese wooden construction techniques, with a particular emphasis on the use of cypress and other prized wood materials. Its design, characterized by simplicity and elegance, includes sliding wooden doors and a tranquil ambiance typical of Japanese architecture. Despite not being officially designated as a historic building, the dormitory is a valuable cultural asset. It serves as a living museum, providing insights into the architectural and cultural exchange between Japan and Taiwan during the colonial period.






Address:
1. Jingliao Elemntary School: 731台南市後壁區282號
2. Houbi Elementary School: 731台南市後壁區後壁國小日式宿舍

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