Travel date: 2024/06/08
This trip south was filled with the charm of Japanese-era buildings. I tried to find places to see on the Chiayi-Tainan border and stumbled upon Puzi Town. Having lived in Tainan for three years, I had no idea there was such a large area of Japanese buildings nearby. Maybe it was because we rarely visited Chiayi, or I just never checked the small towns around well enough to notice them.
Sometimes I feel that most tourist spots in Taiwan are related to the Japanese era, with fewer remaining from the Qing Dynasty, as much older structures have been destroyed over time. I never actually thought of traveling to Japan, but I really like those wooden buildings, I feel that it would be a dream future house.
When we arrived at the Japanese dormitories area, there was an event preparing to start later on - a market organized for the Dragon Boat Festival. I'm not sure how busy it is without the market, but I think it would be much quieter as it doesn't seem to have many shops around. Compared to the Japanese dormitories in Chiayi City, these are much less known.
Our next stop was Tainan's Houbi District. We once again visited Jingliao Old Street. We came here once during COVID-19, and it was rainy that day. At that time, I thought it was a boring and not well-known area, but today's feeling was so different! It's actually filled with visitors, and there were shops open, food, and drink - totally different from a few years ago. Traveling during COVID-19 wasn't fun at all.
Even though the weather was supposed to be rainy, we actually got plenty of sunshine. It was noon and pretty hot. It's been two years since moving out of Tainan, and the north feels a lot cooler, so I also had a bit of trouble accepting the heat. We visited the old street, an old drug store, a Dutch well, a rice mill, and later on stopped at an elementary school that had two unique buildings left from Japanese times. We also drove to another place, but the octagonal storage was closed, and the dormitory only opens for students during school time, so there wasn't much to see.
Check out more information about our Chiayi trip in my other post [LINK].
Check out Japanese-era relics in Houbi in my other post [LINK].
Jingliao Old Street (菁寮老街)
Jingliao was a small village in the mid-Qing Dynasty, known for its dyeing and weaving crops. It served as an important halfway station on the ancient official road between Fucheng (Tainan) and Zhuluo County (Chiayi). It became the most prosperous settlement along the Bazhang River and was commonly known as "Beishi Street." During the Japanese occupation of Taiwan, the street was renovated, and the buildings facing the street were converted into commercial street houses.
The Jingliao Old Street in Houbi District is a historic street that dates back to the Qing Dynasty. It's known for its well-preserved traditional architecture and is a popular destination for tourists interested in experiencing Taiwan's rich cultural heritage. The street is lined with old brick buildings, wooden houses, and storefronts that have been restored to their original condition. You can explore the narrow alleyways, which are filled with shops selling traditional handicrafts, snacks, and souvenirs.
One of the main attractions of Jingliao Old Street is the Jingliao Temple, a Taoist temple dedicated to the god of war, Guan Yu. The temple dates back to the Qing Dynasty and is known for its intricate wood carvings and colorful murals.
Another popular attraction is the Jingliao Ecological Park, which is located just outside of the old street area. The park offers a chance to explore the local flora and fauna, including rare bird species and freshwater turtles.
Jingliao Jin Dexing Pharmacy (菁寮金德興藥舖)
Jingliao Jin Dexing Pharmacy, also known as the Jingliao Ruan Family Ancient House, is a traditional wooden loft-style street house on Jingliao Old Street. It was moved to Jingliao in 1910 and is adorned with exquisite craftsmanship. It is also recognized as one of the top 100 scenic spots in southern Taiwan. In 2005, it was registered as a monument in Tainan City.
The building has changed ownership several times. It originally belonged to a prominent Lin family in Dingtan Village, Lucao Township, Chiayi County. It was later sold to Xu Qian in Houbi. In 1910, the building was dismantled and relocated to its current site in Jingliao, where it was sold to Ruan. Ruan opened a Chinese pharmacy, and the building also became the ancestral residence of the Ruan family. The plaque above the gate beam, "Jin Dexing Qian Ji," was inscribed by the calligrapher Jing Tang in 1925. One of the paintings on the wall, "Twelve Precepts of Tao Zhugong," was written by the owner of the house, Ruan Qian, in 1917.
Bakery Shop (稻稻來)
Next to the ancient house, there's a bakery shop where you can buy freshly baked bread. The aroma around the shop is incredible. Inside, you can also see some ancient artifacts and pictures.
According to a story I found, a man named Wu developed rice bread and taught the community how to make it. Master Wu, born into a poor farming family, began his apprenticeship in his teens, forming an inseparable bond with baking.
With a solid foundation in baking, he started his own business in Baihe after serving in the military, gaining fame with his traditional Chinese wedding cakes and lotus seed pastries. His venture into rice bread was inspired by a divine dream, leading him to help farmers and selflessly teach the community, tirelessly promoting rice bread.
Currently, the rice bread comes in one size, with various flavors priced between 120 and 150 NTD. Made from ground Taiwanese rice, the rice flour lacks gluten, so it is mixed with lotus root powder to provide the necessary texture. No chemicals or artificial flavors are added. Besides rice bread, Master Wu has also developed rice cakes and rice rolls, but only the bread is available at Dao Dao Lai.
Jingliao Wumile Community (無米樂菁寮嫁妝老街)
Jingliao Wumile Community is located in Jingliao Village, Houbi District. The name "Jingliao" traces back to the Qing Dynasty when the area was part of Xiaciaodong North Fort, Chiayi County under the Taiwan Prefecture. The local population largely cultivated "Qingzai" (a type of dye tree), which significantly improved their livelihoods. This widespread cultivation led to the name "Qingzailiao," which eventually became "Jingliao Village." Positioned as a critical midpoint on the north-south transportation route and the bustling Yan Shui Port settlement, Jingliao was a vital junction for transporting and selling goods to Zhuluo County, making it one of the earliest economic hubs in the region.
From the late Qing Dynasty to the 1950s, Beishi Street in Jingliao not only thrived on industries like indigo dyeing, rice farming, and straw weaving but also became famous for its shops selling dowry items. The street was lined with a variety of shops, each industry represented by multiple stores, such as jewelry shops, wedding cake stores, tailoring shops, fabric stores, quilt shops, shoe stores, bicycle shops, furniture factories, taverns, tea houses, eateries, guest houses, rice mills, clock shops, beauty salons, ice fruit stores, barber shops, blacksmith shops, lead bucket shops, wooden barrel makers, grain stores, theaters, open-air theaters, Western medical clinics, Chinese medicine pharmacies, hardware stores, grocery stores, department stores, brick factories, construction contractors, large vegetable markets, credit unions, light railways, public baths, and more.
The 2005 documentary "Wumile" brought nationwide attention to Jingliao, highlighting the lives of local farmers like Kun Bin Bo, Huang Ming Bo, and Wen Lin Bo. This exposure helped transform the community into a rural cultural tourism hub, steadily establishing Jingliao's resources in "people," "culture," "land," "industry," and "scenery" while also focusing on elder care responsibilities. Community members have contributed their time and money to shape a beautiful blueprint for their hometown, turning Jingliao’s rural lifestyle into a cultural tourism attraction and fostering rural regeneration.
Dutch Well (荷蘭井)
According to village memories, this Dutch Well has been around for a long time. In the past, local mothers would carry their children to the well to do laundry and use the well water for washing their faces and hands. The Dutch well, believed to have been dug during the Dutch colonial period, is five meters deep, making it a familiar landmark for Jingliao villagers.
Next to the ancient Dutch well stands a traditional Minnan three-section building belonging to the Huang family, who have lived in Jingliao for generations and now welcome guests to stay. Given its proximity to the well, the homestay has been aptly named "Dutch Well Spring Homestay."
Fushia Rice Mill (福家碾米廠)
Fushia Rice Mill is a nearly century-old traditional rice mill, now in its fourth generation of operation. Decades ago, rice mills were common, as they were essential for family income. However, with changing times, the availability of repair parts for rice mills has dwindled, large rice mills have replaced traditional ones, and imported rice has overshadowed local Taiwanese rice. Knowledgeable rice millers have become rare, yet they are highly respected for their skills. Recognizing issues by sound, they know how to clean, maintain, and repair these traditional machines, which are now considered invaluable. Fushia Rice Mill's machinery, made entirely of durable cypress wood, offers a rare glimpse into early Taiwanese rural life.
Address:
1. Jingliao Jin Dexing Pharmacy: 731台南市後壁區191號
2. Bakery Shop 稻稻來: 731台南市後壁區墨林里189號
3. Dutch Well: 台南市後壁區
4. Fushia Rice Mill: 台南市後壁區菁寮里菁寮11號
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