Chiayi Travel: Dapu Lake (Tsengwen Reservoir) and Qingyun Falls

Seems like lately, we have been going out frequently with other foreigners. This time, we met with a Bosnian girl and an Arabian guy, who moved to Taiwan about 3-4 months ago. The Arabian guy is my husband's coworker, and they wanted us to meet because his wife was feeling lonely in the new country. However, the first impression wasn't great. She didn't seem talkative at all, and I felt bored throughout the day. We spent 7-8 hours together, but there wasn't much conversation. I also tried chatting with her on messenger before, and it was the same. Maybe it's not just her problem; lately, I haven't felt like talking much to anyone, although I never had this issue with my friends. Perhaps another time will be better. I still remember when I first moved to Taiwan; I was quite similar to her, finding it difficult to make new friends and unsure of what to talk about. I've changed a lot in the past two years.

I had discovered these places some time ago but didn't have much time to visit them. Maybe I should also search for more information before going somewhere, rather than just looking at pictures. For example, there were a few waterfalls I had no idea how to get to. But it's kind of fun to open Google Maps and say, "Let's go there!"

I was still curious about those waterfalls, so the other day, we found a video on Xiaofei's channel that featured them. It was our first time watching his channel, and it's really cool! Now I know which waterfalls to avoid because he usually finds ones that are difficult to reach. We definitely don't want to climb a river while carrying a child, haha.

Dapu Township (大埔鄉)

Dapu Township (大埔鄉) is the township with the smallest population in Chiayi County. Over 90% of the land is owned by state-owned or security forests, and the largest reservoir in Taiwan, Tsengwen Reservoir, is located here. Since the original river valley plain was flooded by the reservoir, agricultural development is limited, and the township has transformed into a tourism industry. The Zengwen Reservoir Scenic Area is the most significant tourist attraction, and the local pig population has become a major point of interest.

Dapu Township is located south of the Tropic of Cancer, with the population concentrated below 500 meters above sea level. It has a subtropical climate with long summers and short winters. The annual average temperature is about 23.4°C, with the average monthly temperature from May to October above 25°C, peaking at 28.8°C in July. From December to February, the average monthly temperature is lower, with an average minimum temperature of 17.1°C.

The township receives an average annual rainfall of about 2,236 mm, with distinct rainy and dry seasons. The rainy season spans from May to September, accounting for 83.7% of the annual rainfall, particularly during the rainy months of June, July, and August. During this time, the water level of Tsengwen Reservoir noticeably increases. The dry season runs from October to April, with a significant drop in the reservoir's water level.

See also: Alishan

Tsengwen Reservoir (曾文水庫)

Tsengwen Reservoir (曾文水庫) is the largest reservoir and lake in Taiwan, covering an area of 17.14 square kilometers. Its primary purpose is to provide irrigation water for the Jianan area. It also serves for power generation, flood control, and sightseeing. Construction of the reservoir began in 1967 and was completed in 1973.

The Tsengwen River Basin, where the reservoir is located, spans a total length of 138.47 kilometers and has a drainage area of 1,176 square kilometers. It is the fourth largest river in Taiwan, with an average annual flow of 1.6 billion cubic meters. The dam is an earth-rock dam with a height of 133 meters, making it the third highest dam in Taiwan. The dam is 400 meters long, with a volume of 9 million cubic meters, making it the largest among Taiwan's reservoirs. The reservoir has a water surface area of 1,714 hectares (17 square kilometers), making it the largest in Taiwan. There are three spillways in Tsengwen Reservoir, each at a different elevation. The minimum discharge rates are 250, 300, and 350 cubic meters per second. When the gates are fully open, the maximum flood discharge can reach 9,470 cubic meters per second.

Waterfalls

We had planned to see four waterfalls (Qingyun, Cuitan, Sanlong, Caoshan), but in the end, we only managed to visit one—Qingyun Waterfall. It's not the best time to see waterfalls due to the dry weather. The water flow was very little or almost nonexistent at Cuitan Falls (翠潭瀑布). We didn't visit the third waterfall on our list, Sanlong Waterfall, because it was difficult to find parking near the road, and we had no idea how to get to the river. We also gave up on Caoshan Waterfall (草山瀑布) halfway through the journey. The road from the main road was very small and looked unsafe. We parked near the river and walked along the path towards the waterfall. However, we noticed that the road was blocked further ahead. It was probably forbidden for scooters to continue, but we weren't sure how far and how difficult it would be to reach the waterfall. Moreover, it was already around 2-3 pm, and it was starting to get darker, so we decided to turn back. In the end, we drove to Baihe to visit the Fire Water Spring, which was quite a distance from there.

Qingyun Falls (青雲瀑布) 

Qingyun Falls is located in Xikou Village and is also known as the Lovers Waterfall. It's one of the famous scenic spots in the Dapu Scenic Area. The Qingyun Waterfall is surrounded by vast green hills. The name "Lovers Waterfall" comes from the fact that the waterfall splits into two streams at the bottom of the pool, symbolizing lovers holding hands towards the future. Qingyun Waterfall is located next to the Dapu Arch Bridge. It is very easy to reach, as it is close to the main road, and there is no need for climbing. During the rainy season, the water flow is more prominent, but it still looks impressive even during the dry season.

Caoshan Waterfall (草山瀑布) 

Caoshan Waterfall is located in Fanlu Township and is a unique waterfall in Chiayi. It cascades from a cliff onto the ground floor, creating a large pool in front of the waterfall, making the waterfall itself appear relatively small. The height of the waterfall becomes more apparent when you climb to the top and look down. If you have a good motorcycle, you can ride all the way to the top and then walk for another 10 minutes. However, cars should be parked at the bottom of the path, and the remaining distance should be covered on foot.

See also: Fire And Water Spring

Address:

1. Qingren Falls: 600嘉義縣東區市9鄉道0"N號青雲瀑布
2. Tsengwen Reservoir - Qingren Park: 607嘉義縣大埔鄉雙溪100號情人公園

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Tainan Travel: Taijiang National Park and Luerhmen Mazu Temple

Again, we traveled with my Polish friend and her family, and this time they wanted to visit Tainan. Initially, I wanted to go to Anping, but they chose to visit Taijiang National Park. We planned to take a boat trip, but there were too many people, and we would have had to wait for at least 1-2 hours. So, I decided to bring them to the Salt Fields instead. They had never been there before and really liked it. It's also a nice place for kids to play, as there are six fields that visitors are allowed to enter.

This wasn't our first time in the national park. Some time ago, we drove around the area. Without taking a boat trip, the view is not particularly special—just water with trees and some birds. We had also previously visited Sicao Fort and Luerhmen Mazu Temple, so I finally put it all together in one blog post.

Taijiang National Park (台江國家公園)

Taijiang National Park (台江國家公園) was officially established on December 28, 2009. It includes the Annan District of Tainan City and the coastal area of Qiqi District, including Sicao, Luermen, the former Anshun Yantian, the seven-share lagoon, and the sea to Dongji Island in Penghu County.

Unlike other national parks, which are primarily governed by the central government, Taijiang National Park was initiated by the local government, specifically the Tainan City Government. On June 29, 2009, the Ministry of the Interior approved a plan to establish the name "Taijiang River" to facilitate international marketing. Taijiang National Park covers an area of 39,310 hectares (118,912,754 ping).

Originally, the area was an inland sea and lagoon in southwest Taiwan until the 18th century when the lagoon gradually became land. The sandbar on the outer side of the lagoon integrated with the land. Additionally, the Taijiang River has played a significant role in history, with events such as Zheng Chenggong's entry into the Inner Sea through the Luermen Waterway and the unexpected attack on the earlier Dutch colonizers, establishing Taiwan as a dominant society for the Han people.

In 1624, the Dutch East India Company decided to relocate their destroyed Wuhu City to Taiwan and build a city on Daegu Island. After 8 years and 4 months, it was finally completed at the end of 1632. The city, serving as a trade and administrative center, was named Zeelandia, now known as "Anping Fort." In the opposite corner of the northern line (汕) tail island, the Dutch chose to build a walled city known as "Zeeburg." The structure was a three-story tower with the lower two floors measuring 6 meters wide and the upper floor 9 meters wide. It featured six cannons, and the wall was 2.5 meters thick. However, this town was damaged by a strong typhoon in 1656 and was never rebuilt, allowing Zheng Chenggong to take advantage of the situation. In 1661, Zheng Chenggong's army entered the Taijiang River through the Luermen Waterway, landing on the northern line.

Over time, due to siltation in the Luermen River and the development of land on both sides of the saltwater creek, the river channel narrowed, leading to a significant decrease in drifting sand. The construction of Wushantou Reservoir and Zengwen Reservoir further impacted the area. In recent years, the construction of the offshore fishing port and the multi-purpose port Anping Shanggang, as well as the burial of the Tainan Science and Technology Industrial Zone wastewater discharge pipe at the north side of the saltwater creek outlet, created a "jetty effect."

With changes in the environment and increasing labor costs, the aquaculture and salt industries faced challenges in the 1970s, leading Taiwan Salt to plan to stop salt production in the 1990s. The younger generation perceived farming as hard, risky, and unstable, resulting in a gradual abandonment of farming and the deterioration of fish farms. However, this decline in traditional coastal industries allowed the natural environment to recover, leading to a gradual diversification of biological ecology.

See also: Salt Fields and Salt Museum

Sicao Fort (四草砲臺)

Sicao Fort (四草砲臺) is located in the Annan District of Tainan City and is a second-class monument since August 1985. The building is one of the 17 turrets built by Yao Ying of the Taiwan Armed Forces during the Qing dynasty. The remaining part has become the small wall of Zhenhai.

To strengthen Taiwan's coastal defense during the first Opium War, Yao Ying of the Taiwan Armed Forces built Zhenhai City, commonly known as Sicao Fort, in 1840, alongside the construction of Anping Small Fort in Anping.

Due to the urgency of the defense at that time, the fortification was initially made of bamboo rafts and sacks, with a 30-foot (about 96-meter) long retaining wall and ten gun piers. The trench surrounding the fort was filled with 20,000 hidden bamboo sticks, 800 nail barrels, 800 nail boards, and two iron shovels.

However, after the garrison was transferred and the port of Sicao was abandoned, the fort fell into disrepair and was damaged. After World War II, in 1951, Zhenhai Elementary School was built on the west side of the remaining wall. The remaining section of the fort's wall became part of the school's outer wall. In 1969, a section of the wall collapsed due to a typhoon but was later restored in 1977.

The fort is constructed with pebbles, triple soil, and long slabs. The figure-shaped blastholes on the wall were designed to change the angle.

Opposite the fort is Sicao Temple, and behind the temple lies "Hailing Jiacheng," the remains of Dutch soldiers killed by Zheng Jun under the leadership of Chen Ze during the Dutch rule in Taiwan.

See also: Anping Fort

Salt Fields 

I have been to the salt fields a few times, and it's always a wonderful experience. The sunset view here is truly beautiful. It's also a lot of fun for kids to play here. During this visit, there was even a parrot show, so we could see plenty of beautiful colorful birds flying above the fields. If you want to learn more about the salt history and salt fields, you can visit my other blog posts.

See also: Salt Fields and Museum of Salt 

See also: Sio House - History of Salt

Luerhmen Mazu Temple (正統鹿耳門聖母廟)

Luerhmen Mazu Temple (正統鹿耳門聖母廟) is an Orthodox Temple in the Annan District of Tainan. It's a temple dedicated to the Virgin Mary. According to the book "Taiwan Tucheng Orthodox Luermen Temple," there was already a Mazu Temple in the area as early as Zheng Chenggong's arrival in Taiwan. At that time, there were three temples—one dedicated to Dianxian Zunwang in the front hall, one for the worship of Mazu in the Zheng Hall, and one for Buddha in the apse. Another story suggests that after Zheng Chenggong came to Taiwan, he rebuilt the temple to express his gratitude to God and added two side rooms to worship the three Mazu statues that came with the ship. After World War II, Xiangong built the temple's gate in 1947 and promoted the opening of the temple. In 1975, the temple was rebuilt at its current location.

Address:

1. Taijiang National Park: 709台南市安南區四草大道118號台江國家公園
2. Sicao Fort: 709台南市安南區顯草街一段381號四草砲臺
3. Salt Fields: 727台南市北門區西南郊復育鹽田
4. Luerhmen Mazu Temple: 70958台南市安南區城安路160號正統鹿耳門聖母廟

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Changhua Travel: Sanqing Sanyuan Palace Shell Temple

Never post about Shell Temple in Changhua: HERE

Finally, after nearly half a year, I was able to meet my Polish friend again. They had just left New Taipei and moved back to Changhua. We had been to Changhua a few times in the past, but we had never visited this unique place. This shell temple is less well-known than the one in the Taipei area, Fufudingshan Shell Temple. The temple may not be big, but it is definitely worth visiting. My friend mentioned this place before but couldn't remember the name. Luckily, I was able to find it quickly. Usually, I search on Google Maps to find interesting places to visit. However, it takes a lot of time, especially when searching for information in Chinese with my very poor language skills (almost non-existent). Thankfully, there are plenty of translators that I can use.

This temple is located in a field, not far from another attraction, Glass Mazu Temple. There is also an underground tunnel where you can see many shell decorations such as dragons and chickens. At the end of the tunnel, there is a shop selling shells and decorations, as well as several aquariums and ponds with fishes and turtles, and even some special birds.

I still wanted to visit Lukang Town, but it was already getting late, and we needed to return to Tainan.

Sanqing Sanyuan Palace Shell Temple (三清三元宫贝壳庙) 

Sanqing Sanyuan Palace Shell Temple was built by Huang Qichun, who was born into a poor family. He attended school in the countryside for one year but dropped out at the age of 12 to work as a laborer. At 16, he became an apprentice in an ironworks and learned the skill of making kitchen knives. After retiring, he attempted to start a business but was unsuccessful. In the 1970s, he bought land near Xiu'an Cemetery in Funan Village to build tropical fish ponds. Despite friends advising him against it, he and his wife, Huang Lixiao, proceeded with the plan.

Huang Qichun often dreamed of spiritual phenomena after moving to this place. He dreamt of a stone-covered temple adorned with shells and similar decorations. Inspired by these dreams, he collected various shells and purchased sandstone from Hengchun Town to build the temple. Initially, the coral and shells were fixed with wire, and then cement was gradually applied between the layers. The walls, except for the pillars, roofs, and entrance gates, were all handmade and decorated with shells. The villagers found Huang Qichun and his temple peculiar, leading them to refer to it as the "shell temple." As Huang Qichun's son grew older, he also helped with farming, allowing his father more time to focus on building the temple, which was eventually completed.

The temple has a square shape with a roof adorned with dragons and phoenixes. The space is divided into the front door, main temple, Dragon Palace tunnel, tropical fish farm, and art area. On the walls of the gallery leading to the basement, shells are crafted into the shape of dragons and phoenixes. Due to the land being a farmland, it was impossible to obtain temple registration.

The temple's construction, which took 21 years, was roughly completed in 1996, with the final touches done in late January 1997. By 2001, the temple had gained fame in the district, and many tour buses began bringing visitors to this place. However, the narrow entrance and exit of the parking lot often posed a problem for large tour buses.

Huang Qichun didn't give up his fish farming work and his fishing rod can still be seen beside the temple. To showcase the art of shell creations, the temple features various shells used to create a model temple of Lugang Tianhou Palace. Inside the temple, there is a dragon-shaped decoration called the "Millennium Shell Dragon," which stands 2 meters tall and stretches 3 meters in length, symbolizing the Millennium Year of the Dragon. Huang Qichun's son, Huang Donghui, imported scallops, seaweed, reefs, and other materials from Japan and the Philippines. He transformed them into small decorative boxes using a similar technique and sold them in the basement of the temple.

See also: Fufudingshan Shell Temple

See also: Glass Mazu Temple

  

Address:

506彰化縣福興鄉振興巷10-1號三清三元宮貝殼廟

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Polish Girl's Life in Taiwan ~ First interview / cakes

Since there was a news about my cakes, I decided to translate it

Original article: www.chinatimes.com

Thanks to the rise of the Internet and Facebook, ghost restaurants and virtual kitchens have emerged in recent years. Cake shops without physical stores can also have a group of loyal customers. Zaneta, a Polish wife who has been married to Taiwan for more than two years, opened the  波蘭老婆甜點屋 Polish Wife’s Desserts on Facebook. She did not expect to be highly praised. This year, she and her husband moved to Tainan Shanhua, and soon the cakes was loved by many Shanhua people. She was very moved by person that bought her cheesecake and gave her pomelo fruit.

Zaneta originally lived in a small rural village in north-central Poland. The locals are good at making pastries. She is no exception. She has learned to bake biscuits, cakes, and bread since she was a child. After she married in Taiwan, she tried to make biscuits and cakes for her husband to take to the company to share with colleagues. The response was good. Sometimes colleagues ordered cakes, which help them decide to sell cakes on Facebook.
Because the cheesecake made by Zaneta has very real ingredients, only bisquits, cheese, eggs, sugar and no other chemical additives, it's a very simple Polish cheesecake, which attracts a group of consumers with the same taste buds. Zaneta said that the cakes in their Polish shop are all like this, and the appearance is not fancy.
Zaneta currently sells cheesecakes in many flavors, including chocolate zebra, strawberry, lemon, blueberry, starry blueberry, passion fruit, original cheese, chocolate, coconut cheesecake, etc. The top 3 best sellers are lemon, blueberry, chocolate zebra, guests who want to try it out can make reservations on Facebook first, and they can be picked up or home delivered. 
Zaneta has two kinds of blueberry cheesecakes. One is with whole blueberries. She said, "We use wild blueberries, because didn't get used to the taste of American blueberries". Cake made with blueberries is not too sweet. She also developed the galaxy blueberry, where blueberries are blended and mixed with cheese, which was well received.
Because Zaneta takes orders first and then goes to buy ingredients and bake cakes, she takes care of her children while baking cakes during the day, and can only meet in person for collection at evening. Many regular customers ask friends to order together, and then send representatives to pick up the cakes. After a long time, they become good friends. Some time ago, someone gave her pomelo, which made her feel the touched by Shanhua folks.

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Hualien Travel: Yuedong and Shitiping Recreation Area

Travel Date: 2019/08/31-09/02

Unfortunately, we had less than half a day in Hualien during our trip. We only made quick stops at places on the way to our hotel and visited the Night Market. However, that night our son developed croup and had difficulty breathing. We rushed him to the hospital and stayed overnight. The previous day, he had been coughing, particularly before sleep, and had refused to eat dinner. I wanted to take him to see a doctor earlier, but my husband thought I was overreacting, as many mothers might feel. The next day, he was feeling better, but there was a typhoon approaching, and we weren't sure if we would be able to leave if we stayed longer in the hospital. It was a difficult decision, but we discharged him from the hospital around noon and brought him back to Tainan. He had stayed in the hospital in Hualien for about 16 hours, and he was already breathing well and seemed energetic. The journey back home took around 7 hours, but fortunately, he didn't cry, which made it easier for him to breathe. We visited the hospital once we arrived home to ensure he was fine and received additional medicine. He gradually got better, but the illness brought about changes in him. Suddenly, he stopped drinking milk (he was 18 months old at the time), and he no longer slept during the afternoon. It has already been 2 months since our trip to the east of Taiwan, and now I can barely find time to write my blog and bake cakes for sale. However, I'm happy that he is healthy again.

Sea Worship Area (海祭場)

We made a quick stop at this place, which is used by the aboriginal people for praying to the sea god. There was nobody around when we visited.

 

Yuedong Recreation Area (月洞遊憩區)

Yuedong is situated in Fengbin Township of Hualien County, about 1 km from the port village of Shitiping. It is a natural stalactite cave with a pool of water about 5 meters deep inside. The water level in the cave rises and falls with the phases of the moon, hence its name "Moon Cave." Moon Cave is located approximately 80 meters above sea level, around 800 meters from the coast, with an entrance height of about 25 meters and a length of about 176 meters. It has a unique shape with two caves inside. The left cave is larger and deeper, extending about 50 meters. At the end, thousands of bats can be seen hanging from the narrow ceiling. The right cave is shorter, spanning approximately 40 meters. The cave exudes a mysterious darkness, with bats clinging to stalactites throughout. It also showcases volcanic rocks, stalagmites, bird's nest fossils, fish head fossils, and other intriguing landscapes. To explore the cave, visitors must take a boat operated by a guide. The boat is equipped with lighting, and the temperature inside Moon Cave is around 20 degrees Celsius, providing a warm environment in winter and a cool respite in summer. It is suitable for swimming all year round.

Shitiping (石梯坪)

Shitiping boasts a distinctive rocky landscape carved by wind and seawater. The tides in the area are rich in natural ecological resources, housing crabs, starfish, hermit crabs, and colorful fish. It is a perfect spot to set up camp on the sea erosion platform and witness the morning sun breaking through the clouds, casting a golden glow on the sea. 

The entire area consists of an expansive coastal terrace with well-developed sea erosion terrain. Visitors can admire sea erosion platforms, uplifted coral reefs, sea erosion ditches, sea erosion cliffs, and potholes. Shitiping is also a bustling port where fishing boats bring in fresh catches. It is considered the birthplace of whale watching in Taiwan. During the summer, whales and dolphins can often be spotted, attracting tourists to embark on whale-watching boats and marvel at their elegant presence. 

The Shitiping tribe, known as Tidaan, was formed by the migration of various ethnic groups to the port tribe. The main ethnic group is the Ami, followed by the Han Chinese. The tribe's ceremonies, music, and lifestyles bear similarities to the port tribes located 2 km away. The fishing festival in mid-June and the Harvest Festival in late July are the main cultural events in the region. In order to preserve the ancestral crafts, the Shitiping tribe established a craft workshop. 

Additionally, they actively participate in the preservation of traditional culture through witch dances, traditional coarse foods, and wine-making traditions. Along the southeast corner of the coast, you can observe hills with a pale white color. The landward side of these hills gradually slopes, while the seaward side is steeply inserted into the sea, forming a "single-sided mountain" with different inclination angles on each side. 

Small single-sided mountains can be seen throughout the Shitiping area. The slope on the seaward side of the single-sided mountain forms a natural stone ladder eroded by the waves. Natural sea arches are often found in prominent areas with strong sea erosion. After millions of years of sea waves, the final hole is formed, creating a sea erosion gate, also known as a "sea arch." The coast is dotted with numerous narrow "sea erosion ditches."

Shitigang (石梯漁港拍賣市場)

Shitigang Port is located on the northwest side of Shitiping. It holds the distinction of being the birthplace of whale watching in Taiwan, with the highest chance of spotting whales and dolphins in the country. Over 16 species of cetaceans can be found in the open sea, and the most common ones include the tropical spotted dolphin with white spots on its fins, the group-loving Fraser's dolphin, and the spinner dolphin known for its acrobatic spins. The chance of encountering whales and dolphins during a sea excursion is as high as 9.5 percent.

Shimen (石門休憩區)

About 5 kilometers north of Shitiping, you'll find Shimen Beach, a stretch of reef coast that spans several kilometers. It derives its name from a sea-shaped cave found on the beach, which features three interconnected holes. The cave measures approximately 18 meters in width and nearly 5 meters in height. From Shimen Cave to the coast between the People's Victory Day monuments, you can witness well-developed sea erosion landscapes, including sea caves, potholes, sea erosion platforms, and sea erosion ditches. The reef coast serves as a fertile ground for various types of seaweed, while fish and shrimps thrive in the area. As a result, Shimen is not only a popular fishing spot but also a natural classroom for observing coastal marine life.

Address: 

1. 海祭場: 977花蓮縣豐濱鄉海祭場
2. Yuedong Recreation Area: 977花蓮縣豐濱鄉月洞遊憩區
3. Shitiping: 977花蓮縣豐濱鄉台11線石梯坪
4. Shimen: 977花蓮縣豐濱鄉石門班哨角休憩區

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