Miaoli One-Day Travel - Part 3: Longteng Bridge, Shengxing Station

Travel Date: 2024/04/20

This time, we embarked on a trip all the way south of Miaoli County. We live in the Toufen Zhunan Area, which is nearby Hsinchu. It was about a 120km scooter ride, leaving us super tired and sunburned, but it was truly enjoyable as we visited several places along the way. Our first stop was Tongxiao Shrine, a beautiful Japanese remnant. We wandered around and then walked to the memorial park above. The view from there was stunning, encompassing a vast expanse of Miaoli County, including the sea and mountains. Since it was noon, we also grabbed some food. The Sichuan-style beef noodles and luwei were particularly tasty.

Afterwards, we continued driving further south, arriving in Yuanli Township, situated on the border of Miaoli and Taichung. The old street was rather empty and not well-known, but there was one ancient house that many people visit. The house was large and exceptionally pretty; the owner kindly guided us around, explaining every little detail.

But our journey didn't end there. From the coastal area, we drove all the way to the mountainside. We passed by Hutoushan, also known as Fire Mountain in English. Though we didn't embark on a climb this time, perhaps we'll do so in the future. We then drove to Longtang Broken Bridge and explored the remains on both sides of the river. Having visited only one side in the past, it was a new experience to see both. From the bridge, we proceeded to Shengxing Station, nestled in the mountains. Though no longer in use, the area boasted several wooden houses, food stalls, and numerous tourists. From here, one can take the little train to Longteng Broken Bridge.

Initially planning to head back home, we realized it was already around the time the night market in Miaoli City opened. As we passed by, we decided to stop and visit the children's park then went on to find some foo. That marked the end of our trip. From the time we set out until we returned home, it had been a journey of around 9-10 hours.

See also:

Tongxiao Shrine LINK

Cai Family's Ancient House LINK

Longteng Broken Bridge (龍騰斷橋(魚藤坪斷橋))

Longteng Broken Bridge, was originally named Yutengping Bridge. It's situated in Longteng Village, Sanyi Township, Miaoli County. Constructed in 1907, just before the inauguration of the through-line railway (later known as the Taichung Line), this bridge is a remarkable fusion of brick, steel plate beams, and truss beams. It represents a pinnacle of engineering technology in early 20th-century Taiwan, earning recognition as a symbol of the nation's industrial progress.

Designed by Hyoutaro Inagaki and overseen by American engineers Theodore Cooper and Charles Conrad Schneider, the bridge spans the Yutengping Creek, a tributary of the Jingshan Creek. Its arches and steel girders showcase a blend of traditional masonry techniques and modern steel construction. Notably, the bricks for the arches were transported from Taipei, a testament to the logistical challenges of construction in remote areas.

The Yutengping Broken Bridge endured significant damage during the Hsinchu-Taichung Earthquake of 1935, rendering it impassable. Subsequent assessments revealed extensive structural issues, prompting authorities to abandon plans for restoration. Instead, a new bridge, the Yutengping Iron Bridge, was constructed nearby in 1938, utilizing modern engineering techniques.

In recognition of its historical significance, the Yutengping Broken Bridge was designated as a cultural heritage site by the Miaoli County Government and the Executive Yuan's Cultural Construction Committee. Despite its designation, the bridge fell into disrepair over the years, exacerbated by natural disasters like earthquakes and typhoons.

Efforts to preserve the bridge gained momentum in the early 2000s, with organizations like the Yu Zhaozhong Foundation advocating for its protection. In 2001, it was named one of the "Top Ten Civil and Historical Sites in Taiwan" by various engineering and cultural institutions. Subsequently, the Miaoli County Government undertook initiatives to reinforce and repair the bridge, culminating in a significant restoration project in 2022.

The restoration project aimed to address structural issues and safeguard the bridge for future generations. However, controversies arose regarding the design of the reinforcement brackets, prompting clarification from local authorities. Despite these challenges, the restoration efforts underscored the bridge's enduring cultural and historical significance.

Today, the Yutengping Broken Bridge stands as a testament to Taiwan's industrial heritage, blending architectural ingenuity with natural beauty. As a designated historic site, it serves as a poignant reminder of the nation's past achievements and the ongoing efforts to preserve its rich cultural legacy.

Shengxing Station (舊山線鐵道自行車-勝興站)

Shengxing Railway Station, nestled in Sanyi Township, Miaoli County, holds the distinction of being the highest point along the Western Railway, boasting an altitude of 402.326 meters above sea level. This historic station, built in 1906, features a wooden structure with a distinctive Japanese-style design, believed to ward off malevolent spirits and invoke blessings.

The station played a pivotal role in the region's transportation network for over a century, witnessing the transition from steam locomotives to modern train operations. During its operational years, it served as a vital stop along the Jiushan Line of the Taiwan Railway Administration.

Over time, as railway routes were altered and modernized, Shengxing Station faced changes in its operational status. After the final southbound train departed on September 23, 1998, signaling the end of an era, the station transformed into a cherished landmark and tourist destination.

Today, visitors to Shengxing Station are greeted with nostalgic scenes. Despite the cessation of regular train services, the station remains steeped in history, preserved as a county-designated historic site since April 16, 1999.

In 2010, the Jiushan Line resumed service, albeit with limited train operations, marking a significant milestone in the station's journey. Special nostalgic train rides, such as the "CK124 Old Mountain Line Style Half-Day Tour," were introduced to celebrate the railway's legacy and promote tourism in the region.

The station's wooden building, adorned with traditional architectural elements, stands as a testament to Taiwan's railway heritage. A stone monument within the station commemorates its lofty altitude, serving as a reminder of the station's significance in the region's transportation history.

Surrounded by attractions like Shengxing Old Street, the Ancient Firewood Trail, and scenic railway routes, Shengxing Station continues to draw visitors seeking to immerse themselves in Taiwan's rich cultural and historical tapestry. As a symbol of resilience and preservation, it stands as a testament to the enduring legacy of Taiwan's railway heritage.

Before making our way back home, we made a brief stop at the children's park and the Miaoli night market. The park featured slides, climbing areas, a sandbox, and adorable Kitty sculptures. Adjacent to the park were two old tanks, adding a unique touch to the surroundings.

I highly recommend trying the BBQ at the park entrance, especially if you enjoy the flavors of Tainan. Additionally, at the opposite corner's entrance, there's BBQ corn available, which is equally delicious.

Despite the enjoyable time, I ended up with quite a sunburn, as the sun remained on the same side of my body throughout the journey back and forth. My legs were particularly red that day - an unintended souvenir of our adventure haha

 

Address:

1. South Site of the Broken Bridge: 367苗栗縣三義鄉龍騰斷橋

2. North Site of the Broken Bridge: 367苗栗縣三義鄉苗49鄉道

3. Shengxing Station: 367苗栗縣三義鄉83號

4. Children's Park: 360苗栗縣苗栗市玉清路351號

5. Night Market: 360苗栗縣苗栗市英才路

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Miaoli One-Day Travel - Part 2: Cai Family Ancient House

Travel Date: 2024/04/20

This time, we embarked on a trip all the way south of Miaoli County. We live in the Toufen Zhunan Area, which is nearby Hsinchu. It was about a 120km scooter ride, leaving us super tired and sunburned, but it was truly enjoyable as we visited several places along the way. Our first stop was Tongxiao Shrine, a beautiful Japanese remnant. We wandered around and then walked to the memorial park above. The view from there was stunning, encompassing a vast expanse of Miaoli County, including the sea and mountains. Since it was noon, we also grabbed some food. The Sichuan-style beef noodles and luwei were particularly tasty.

Afterwards, we continued driving further south, arriving in Yuanli Township, situated on the border of Miaoli and Taichung. The old street was rather empty and not well-known, but there was one ancient house that many people visit. The house was large and exceptionally pretty; the owner kindly guided us around, explaining every little detail.

But our journey didn't end there. From the coastal area, we drove all the way to the mountainside. We passed by Hutoushan, also known as Fire Mountain in English. Though we didn't embark on a climb this time, perhaps we'll do so in the future. We then drove to Longtang Broken Bridge and explored the remains on both sides of the river. Having visited only one side in the past, it was a new experience to see both. From the bridge, we proceeded to Shengxing Station, nestled in the mountains. Though no longer in use, the area boasted several wooden houses, food stalls, and numerous tourists. From here, one can take the little train to Longteng Broken Bridge.

Initially planning to head back home, we realized it was already around the time the night market in Miaoli City opened. As we passed by, we decided to stop and visit the children's park then went on to find some foo. That marked the end of our trip. From the time we set out until we returned home, it had been a journey of around 9-10 hours.

See also: 

Tongxiao Shrine LINK

Longteng Broken Bridge, Shengxing Station LINK

Cai Family's Ancient House (蔡家古厝)

The Cai Family's Ancient House, constructed in the late Jiaqing period of the Qing Dynasty around 1820, boasts a rich history spanning nearly 190 years. The ancestral home stands as a testament to their prosperity in business. The Cai family was a prominent family in Yuanli. During the pre-Qing Dynasty, there were many talented people. After the liberation, there were many people who served as mayors and doctors. In Fangli City, as long as the Cai family is mentioned, everyone knows about it.

Craftsmen from China, admitted as Gongsheng students, were commissioned to build this structure using materials imported from their homeland. From Fuzhou fir beams and columns to Tangshan stone floors, the ancient house covers an impressive 600 square meters, adorned with intricate carvings that showcase the beauty of traditional Chinese art.

Named "Cai Quan Sheng Hao," it has served as a backdrop for numerous works of art, including period dramas and literary pieces. Divided into two sections by a low wall, it comprises a public space for business dealings and a private area for family activities.

As the cornerstone of the Cai family's legacy, "Cai Quan Sheng Hao" has witnessed six generations of history, each adding to its rich tapestry of memories. From its humble beginnings as a ganzi store in 1897 to its involvement in various trades such as pressing oil, rice futures, and straw hats, the ancient house reflects the dynamic evolution of the Cai family's entrepreneurial endeavors.

Generations of Cai family members have gathered within its walls to engage in lively debates, play traditional games, and reminisce about bygone days. The courtyard's association with Taiwan's export industry further highlights its economic importance, with products like insect cloth and rush hat mats gaining popularity overseas.

The main hall of the inner courtyard is quite tall and has an ancient style. There are four round brick columns at the entrance. 

These brick columns are made of red bricks that are heated and made into arcs. The stacked columns have a very special style. The vestibule is the external commercial area, and the outer courtyard was originally just a courtyard surrounded by walls. Later, it was built into a house and became an area for external commercial activities. 

The pointed roof looks like a traditional Chinese-style building.

Only half of the house was accessible for viewing, as the other half is currently inhabited by a family. Nonetheless, the owner graciously gave us a tour and explained numerous details about the house. He pointed out the intricacies of the beam and wall decorations, showcased the antique furniture, and even allowed us to explore the attic.

Adjacent to the ancient house lies Shuntian Palace, known as "Mazu in the City," a revered temple that has stood the test of time. The temple, along with the ancient house, forms the heart of the Fangli Ancient City, attracting artists and filmmakers alike. Renowned painter Xi Dejin found inspiration within the courtyard's confines, capturing its essence in his artwork.

Unfortunately, a building is currently being built behind the Cai Family Ancient House. If you visit the Cai Family Ancient House in the future, you will see a strong contrast between the old and new buildings.

Business hours: Sunday and Saturday 09:00-17:00

Remarks: Open for tours on holidays, please call to make an appointment on weekdays.

Address:

358苗栗縣苑裡鎮家古厝

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Miaoli One-Day Travel - Part 1: Tongxiao Shrine, Monument of the Battle of Rizhao

Travel Date: 2024/04/20

This time, we embarked on a trip all the way south of Miaoli County. We live in the Toufen Zhunan Area, which is nearby Hsinchu. It was about a 120km scooter ride, leaving us super tired and sunburned, but it was truly enjoyable as we visited several places along the way. Our first stop was Tongxiao Shrine, a beautiful Japanese remnant. We wandered around and then walked to the memorial park above. The view from there was stunning, encompassing a vast expanse of Miaoli County, including the sea and mountains. Since it was noon, we also grabbed some food. The Sichuan-style beef noodles and luwei were particularly tasty.

Afterwards, we continued driving further south, arriving in Yuanli Township, situated on the border of Miaoli and Taichung. The old street was rather empty and not well-known, but there was one ancient house that many people visit. The house was large and exceptionally pretty; the owner kindly guided us around, explaining every little detail.

But our journey didn't end there. From the coastal area, we drove all the way to the mountainside. We passed by Hutoushan, also known as Fire Mountain in English. Though we didn't embark on a climb this time, perhaps we'll do so in the future. We then drove to Longtang Broken Bridge and explored the remains on both sides of the river. Having visited only one side in the past, it was a new experience to see both. From the bridge, we proceeded to Shengxing Station, nestled in the mountains. Though no longer in use, the area boasted several wooden houses, food stalls, and numerous tourists. From here, one can take the little train to Longteng Broken Bridge.

Initially planning to head back home, we realized it was already around the time the night market in Miaoli City opened. As we passed by, we decided to stop and visit the children's park then went on to find some foo. That marked the end of our trip. From the time we set out until we returned home, it had been a journey of around 9-10 hours.

See also:

Cai Family's Ancient House LINK

Longteng Broken Bridge, Shengxing Station LINK

Tongxiao Shrine (通霄神社) 

The Tongxiao Shrine, located in Tongxiao Township, Miaoli County, Taiwan, holds a rich historical and cultural significance. Constructed in 1937 to replace the earlier Wuge Shrine, it stands adjacent to Hutoushan Park and was originally part of Tongxiao Village in Hsinchu Prefecture. This shrine venerates the deities Amaterasu and Prince Nohisa of Kitashirakawa Palace.

During the Japanese colonial period in 1895, Prince Noku of Kitashirakawa Palace camped in the Tongxiao area. To commemorate this event, locals erected the "Tongxiao Imperial Relics Monument." With the promotion of Shintoism by the Governor-General of Taiwan, the Japanese government, along with some Taiwanese businessmen, initiated the construction of shrines across Taiwan. Tongxiao Shrine was built in 1937 as part of the Japanese government's "one street village, one shrine" policy.

Following the end of World War II and Taiwan's transfer to the Nationalist Government, references to the Japanese colonial period were removed from Tongxiao Shrine. The shrine's auxiliary buildings, including the priests' dormitories and hand-washing rooms, were demolished, while some stone lanterns were preserved. The worship hall was repurposed as the Martyrs' Shrine of Tongxiao Town, later known as Zheng Chenggong Temple. In 2000, with the withdrawal of garrison troops, the shrine's buildings were left for civilian use.

Following the September 21 Earthquake in 1999, Tongxiao Shrine suffered damage, prompting restoration efforts. It was officially registered as a historical site in Miaoli County on November 26, 2002, with restoration and preservation work continuing into the 2010s. Today, the shrine operates as a tourism site to promote local development and is listed as one of the Top 100 religious sites to visit in Taiwan by the Ministry of the Interior.

While the shrine complex is currently not open to visitors due to management reasons, the surrounding environment remains accessible, attracting early morning and evening visitors, predominantly the elderly. 

Architecture 

The "Tongxiao Shrine" complex includes various structures such as the priest's dormitory, social office, torii gates, hand water house, shrine, stone lanterns, worship hall, coin hall, and main hall. Significant structures, like the torii gates, stone lanterns, worship hall, and social office, have been preserved for their unique architectural significance.

Main Hall

Once housing important deities, the main hall was destroyed during the war, leaving only its stone base, which measures about 8 meters long, 6 meters wide, and 180 centimeters high. The base is severely cracked due to tree roots, making it difficult to determine the original style. The remnants of the main hall stand amidst overgrown bushes, offering little else to see in its current state.

Worship Hall

Originally a Japanese-style "Kami-made" shrine building, it featured a Kirizuma (hanging mountain) style and flat-entrance design. The roof sloped straight on both sides without warping. After the war, it was rebuilt into Zhonglie Shrine, dedicated to the Prince of Yanping County. The architectural style was changed to a "traditional Chinese Minnan style" ridged roof, with the Kuomintang emblem added to the roof ridge, reflecting the party-state ideology of the time and leaving behind dual historical architectural features.

Social Affairs Office

Situated next to the First Torii Gate, this office served clergy or administrators. Despite slight additions on the left and back sides, its architectural pattern and structure remain largely the same, featuring an "Irumoya-zukuri" roof with a "Chidori Pofeng" center. The suspended fish and wife ornaments are well preserved. This building is the most intact ancillary structure of Tongxiao Shrine. Over the years, it has served various purposes, including military accommodation. Efforts to restore the social office faced challenges due to non-cooperation from occupants, delaying restoration projects.

Rest House

Initially a dormitory for priests, the rest house later accommodated police or VIPs. Although featuring traditional Japanese architectural elements, it has suffered from neglect and deterioration. Local elders recount that it served as a police club during the Japanese colonial period, a place for police officers and Japanese people to rest or entertain. Although slightly modified after the war, it generally maintains the style of a Japanese residence. The buildings are single-story wooden structures with interiors partitioned into different sizes, connected by sliding doors. Currently, there are no cultural relics on display in the worship hall, with some old photos stored in the town office.

Stone Lanterns and Pilgrimage Path

Japanese-style stone lanterns line both sides of the approach path in front of the worship hall. Some lanterns are original, while others consist of recast bases. The pilgrimage path, situated between the first and second torii gates, features a stone pavement in the center, flanked by five stone lanterns on each side and small gravel paving. The first and second torii gates belong to the "god torii" style, the most common type in Taiwan, with two columns topped by round tiles.

Monument of the Battle of Rizhao (日露戰役望樓紀念碑)

The Rizhao Battle Watchtower Monument, also known as the Russo-Japanese War Monument, stands in Tongxiao Town, Miaoli County. Constructed during the Japanese colonial period in Taiwan, the monument commemorates the 1904 Russo-Japanese War. Today, it is renamed the Taiwan Liberation Monument and is located in Hutoushan Park, although it has not yet been officially recognized as a cultural asset.

The name "Rizhao" in the monument's title originates from the Chinese character for the former name of Russia in Japanese, "Roshiya" (ロシア, Roshia), abbreviated as "Ri." This reflects the historical context in which the monument was erected.

In 1904, the Russo-Japanese War erupted, involving the Russian Empire's Pacific Fleet in conflict with the Japanese army. The Russian Empire, seeking victory, urgently mobilized its Baltic Fleet from Europe. En route to join the war effort, the fleet was reportedly spotted by three Japanese troops stationed on Hutou Mountain in Tongxiao Town. They alerted Japan, and in May 1905, the Japanese Navy ambushed and annihilated the Russian Navy in the Tsushima Strait, thanks to this intelligence.

To honor this victory, the Japanese government decided to erect a monument on Hutou Mountain, praising the defenders for their crucial role in providing intelligence. However, historical records suggest that the Baltic Fleet likely traveled north via the Pacific along Taiwan's east coast, rather than through the Taiwan Strait, casting doubt on the reported sightings. Despite this, the monument was erected, primarily serving propaganda purposes.

In 1930, local residents planned to construct a monument to commemorate the Russo-Japanese War. Initially scheduled for completion by Navy Memorial Day (May 27), construction did not start until 1934. The unveiling ceremony for the monument, Tongxiao Shrine, and Tongxiao Kitashirakawa Palace Imperial Relics Monument took place in 1937.

Following World War II, the inscription on the monument was altered to become the "Monument to the Restoration of Taiwan" in 1946. During the 1960s, the monument was managed by Taiwanese troops stationed in the area. Today, the circular foundation of the original monument remains in Hutoushan Park alongside Tongxiao Shrine.

The design of the Rizhao Battle Watchtower Monument is symbolic of its military significance. Shaped like a gun barrel, the monument signifies its wartime origins and purpose. An anchor is positioned next to the monument, and the base features typical decorative elements from the Japanese occupation era, reflecting the architectural style and cultural influences of that time.

A notable feature is the cannon displayed underneath the monument. Originally repurposed from military waste, the cannon is engraved with identifying markings, adding to the historical and military significance of the site.

While the Rizhao Battle Watchtower Monument has not been officially recognized as a cultural asset, its historical and cultural significance is evident. It serves as a reminder of Taiwan's complex history during the Japanese colonial period and the impact of the Russo-Japanese War. The monument, along with Tongxiao Shrine, forms part of the historical landscape in Hutoushan Park, attracting visitors interested in exploring Taiwan's rich cultural heritage.

Sichuan-style Braised Beef Noodles (滷飄香川味牛肉麵)

After our sightseeing adventure, we decided to take a break for lunch. I stumbled upon a Sichuan-style beef noodle shop in town, and I must say, the flavor was nice. 

The portion size of the beef noodles wasn't particularly large, especially when compared to what we typically get for the same price in the South. Given that it's not a bustling, popular area, I expected the portion to be more generous. Nevertheless, the overall taste was delightful, so I would definitely recommend it.

The luwei, on its own, exuded a lovely fragrance, and there was also a spicy sauce provided for added flavor. What's more, the price of the luwei dishes was notably cheaper than those we've tried at other shops in the North.

Address:

1. 357苗栗縣通霄鎮虎頭山公園

2. 357苗栗縣通霄鎮

3. 357苗栗縣通霄鎮中興路90號

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