Chiayi Travel: Ancient Houses in Yizhu Village

Travel date: 2024/05/18

While traveling to Tainan City, we made stops to visit some places along the way. Unfortunately, the weather wasn't favorable, with occasional clouds and rain. Our first stop was Yizhu Village in Chiayi, a small village bordering Yanshui District of Tainan, where we also visited afterward.

I had found a beautifully looking house on Google Maps, and according to the website and reviews, it was supposed to be open for visits on weekends. However, it was closed when we arrived, which was disappointing as the house appeared very intriguing. Additionally, neighbors warned us about the presence of aggressive dogs inside, advising against entering on our own. With no doorbell or information available, and hearing from others that they ventured inside cautiously due to the dogs, we decided to abandon the idea. Despite being recognized as a historical building, Wengqingjiang Ancient House isn't inaccessible to the public.

Later, we explored another ancient building in the area, Yizhu Cunde Hall. Though perhaps not as visually striking as the first house, it housed numerous memorials from a former President of the Judicial Yuan. The owner graciously provided us with a tour, showcasing the memorials, and even escorted us to another ancestral building nearby. Despite its state of ruin, the building was captivating to explore, and the weather added to the atmosphere of the ancient remains. It's regrettable to think that many of these antique details, not commonly seen in modern houses, may vanish with time.

We also made a brief stop in Yanshui District, where we visited two places we had missed on previous visits. The first was Yanshui Train Station, an old station once part of the Sugar Factory, and the remains of a Japanese Shrine located on the grounds of a local elementary school. 

I've visited several remnants of Japanese Shrines lately. It's interesting, considering I had never harbored a desire to visit Japan, yet I appreciate Japanese architecture in Taiwan. I understand this might be a sensitive topic, as some people may have negative sentiments towards Japan due to historical reasons, but it remains a part of Taiwan's history.

For more details on the places we visited in Tainan, please refer to my other post HERE.

Wengqingjiang Ancient House (翁清江古厝)

The Weng Qingjiang House, a county-designated historic site, has been meticulously restored to its former splendor. On December 27th, County Magistrate Zhang Huaguan and Weng Qihui, Dean of Academia Sinica and a descendant of the Weng family, unveiled the renovated site located in Yizhu Township, Chiayi County. After three years of dedicated restoration work, the house will now be open to the public on a limited basis, allowing visitors to experience its historical significance firsthand. The Weng family, renowned as the largest family in Yizhu, boasts a rich and illustrious history.

Born in 1877, Weng Qingjiang held public positions during the early years of the Japanese occupation. With extensive administrative experience, he became the first president of Yizhu Village. His notable contributions to the region include significant achievements in road construction, the Bazhang River embankment, and the establishment of Yizhu Public School. The Wengzhai building, designed by Japanese technicians, skillfully integrates Taiwan's traditional three-sided courtyard, Western-style houses, and Japanese architectural features. This blend showcases the creative fusion resulting from Taiwan's diverse cultural exchanges throughout history.

The process of designating Weng Qingjiang's house as a historic site was fraught with challenges. In 2006, the Chiayi County Government recognized the cultural value of the house during a cultural asset survey and sought to preserve this important heritage site in Yizhu. However, communication hurdles arose due to multiple owners. Fortunately, Weng Qihui, a member of the Lailu Bei ethnic group, took the initiative to facilitate communication and address objections one by one. Finally, in 2008, the house was designated as a historic site, marking a significant milestone in the preservation of Wengzhai architecture.

The restoration of Weng Qingjiang House serves as a model for the preservation of private cultural assets in Chiayi County. Driven by familial sentiment, Weng Qihui contributed 51% of the restoration costs, ensuring the smooth progress of the project. He enlisted the expertise of architect Zhang Yuhuang, renowned for resurrecting old houses in Tainan, and oversaw the restoration process personally alongside his brother, Shu De Technology University Chair Professor Weng Yinghui. For Dean Weng, the restoration is a testament to his sense of duty towards his family's history and legacy, as well as a cherished cultural legend of Yizhu.

While the Weng Qingjiang House has been restored, it remains the residence of the Weng family. As such, it will be open to the public on a limited basis, respecting the personal privacy rights of its occupants. This limited access provides an opportunity for people from all walks of life to appreciate the story of Yizhu's largest family and the significance of their ancestral home. Visitors can now gain insight into the rich history and cultural heritage preserved within the walls of the Weng Qingjiang House.

Yizhu Cunde Hall - Weng Yuesheng’s Ancestral Residence (義竹存德堂 翁岳生祖居)

Weng Yuesheng, former President of the Judicial Yuan, hails from Yizhu Township, Chiayi County. In a heartfelt gesture honoring his roots, he generously donated his ancestral home, a historical residence dating back 116 years, built by his great-grandfather, Mr. Weng Ban. Alongside the residence, he contributed his personal collection of books, artworks, and cultural relics to the Yizhu Township office. This donation marks the inauguration of "Cunde Hall," named after Weng Yuesheng's father's traditional Chinese medicine shop, which served as a space for self-study and other activities for students.

"Cunde Hall," constructed during the 39th year of the Meiji period (1906 AD) under Japanese colonial rule, boasts a traditional three-sided courtyard architectural style, reminiscent of southern Fujian architecture in Taiwan. Renovated in 2000 and gifted by President Lee Teng-hui during his lifetime, the hall symbolizes Weng Yuesheng's commitment to giving back to his community upon his retirement in 2007.

Throughout his tenure, Weng Yuesheng played a pivotal role in appointing justices to the Judicial Yuan and advocating for judicial reform. His contributions spanned the restoration of China's constitutional status, protection of individual freedoms, and establishment of the rule of law. His dedication to administrative law and constitutional studies left an indelible mark on Taiwan's legal landscape.

Following Weng Yuesheng's donation, the Yizhu Township office undertook the restoration of the ancestral home, preserving its architectural authenticity. Study rooms, exhibition spaces, and reading areas were meticulously planned to facilitate learning and reflection. The donated books, certificates, and personal items serve as testaments to Weng Yuesheng's lifelong commitment to education and societal contribution.

Huang Ajia, Mayor of Yizhu Township, expressed gratitude for the donation, emphasizing the importance of preserving Weng Yuesheng's legacy for future generations. The renovated Cunde Hall will serve as a hub for educational activities, exhibitions, and community gatherings, enriching the cultural fabric of Yizhu.

Weng Zhangliang, echoing sentiments of pride and gratitude, hailed Weng Yuesheng as a model citizen of Yizhu, whose philanthropy and dedication to public service inspire generations to come. The unveiling ceremony, attended by dignitaries and locals alike, provided a platform to delve into Taiwan's judicial history and honor Weng Yuesheng's remarkable contributions.

In an interview, Weng Yuesheng reflected on his journey, expressing profound gratitude to the people and land of Yizhu for shaping his identity and success. His generosity serves as a testament to the enduring bond between individuals and their communities, underscoring the transformative power of giving back.

Former Residence of Weng Qingchun (嘉義義竹翁慶春故居)

Weng Qingchun's Ancient Residence in Yizhu, Chiayi, is a rare gem presented in a traditional courtyard style. Constructed in 1922, this brick structure showcases intricate Chinese architectural elements, though sadly, it now stands abandoned and deteriorating.

The history of the Weng family in Yizhu traces back to Weng Yingrui from Zhao'an, Fujian, during the late Kangxi years. Weng Qingchun, a descendant, was part of this illustrious lineage. However, unlike the restoration efforts seen at the neighboring Weng Qingjiang Ancient House, Weng Qingchun's residence faced neglect and decay.

The configuration of the residence, with its double entrance and guardian dragons, reflects a unique courtyard layout. The central foyer is flanked by two-story Western-style buildings, adding to its grandeur. Despite its current state of disrepair, remnants of its former magnificence can still be discerned.

The design features of Weng Qingchun's Ancient Residence are awe-inspiring. From its elaborate lintel hall numbers to the intricate clay sculptures adorning the walls, every detail speaks of Taiwan's rich traditional craftsmanship. However, time has taken its toll, with sections collapsing and decay evident throughout.

The fate of Weng Qingchun's residence serves as a poignant reminder of the importance of preserving cultural heritage. While efforts were made to restore similar historical buildings in the area, Weng Qingchun's lack of literary prominence led to its neglect. Today, it stands as a silent witness to the passage of time, its once-majestic halls now echoing with memories of bygone eras.

According to research, the eldest man, Renhe, was a literary scholar, and the second eldest brother, Weng Qingchun, was a martial scholar. Weng Renhe’s son is Weng Qingjiang. Today’s Weng Qingjiang house has been restored. However, Weng Qingchun’s ancient residence was not so lucky. In 2007, it was intended to be listed as a historical building. However, there was no follow-up, and it continued to fall into ruins.

Liugui Hall is currently in a very bad state of preservation. Zuoyang Building collapsed, and only the gable remained. The western-style building on the right remains intact but is covered in thick leaves. The left guard dragon maintains well, while the right guard dragon maintains poorly. Almost completely destroyed.

In 2007, the county government planned to list both Weng Qingchun Ancient House and Weng Qingjiang Ancient House as historical buildings and restore them. They listed the easily restored Wengqingjiang House as a historical building and restored it. Weng Qingchun, which had heavy maintenance expenses, was not listed as a historical building. The ancient residence of Weng Qingchun, which had no literary qualifications, was slowly destroyed and disappeared.

Address:

1. Wengqingjiang Ancient House: 624嘉義縣義竹鄉義竹261號

2. Yizhu Cunde Hall: 嘉義縣義竹鄉義竹存德堂

3. Former Residence of Weng Qingchun: 624嘉義縣義竹鄉義竹219號翁慶春故居

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Yunlin Travel: Visiting Erlun's Watermelon Festival, Story House and More!

Travel date: 2024/05/04

In early May, we headed to Yunlin and stumbled upon a watermelon festival happening at that time. Curious, we drove to Erlun Township to check it out. Since we were already near Changhua, we decided to make the most of our trip by stopping at other places, such as the Sports Park and the Story House.

Erlun Watermelon Festival (二崙西瓜節)

The Erlun Watermelon Festival, held at the Ziqiang Fruit and Vegetable Market in Erlun Township, Yunlin County, showcases the achievements of local watermelon farmers and offers free watermelon eating activities. The organizers prepared 700 watermelons weighing nearly 10,000 kilograms for the public to enjoy. Additionally, there was a watermelon eating competition. Watermelons were cut at specific times, and people could line up to receive free watermelons provided by the township government and local farmers and manufacturers. Watermelons are a significant crop in Erlun Township, covering an area of more than 500 hectares, with April and May being the peak seasons for production. The festival, organized for several years now, is a celebration of the town's delicious and juicy watermelons.

Erlun Sports Park

After enjoying the sweet watermelons, we visited Erlun Sports Park, which spans 6 hectares and features various attractions such as a military history park, a green space square, a Taiwan Sugar Train Exhibition Ground, installation art, playgrounds, tennis courts, leisure trails, and a parent-child water play area. The Military History Park showcases retired fighter aircraft, tanks, and artillery pieces, accompanied by Chinese introductions.

Erlun Story House (二崙故事屋)

Our next stop was Erlun Story House, located in the old Erlun Police Station, built in 1899. It holds significant historical value and played a crucial role in policing history and the development of Erlun Township. The preservation of the Erlun branch station highlights the development of the police system during the Japanese Occupation period and its contribution to maintaining public order. Registered as a county historic building in 2005, the site was revitalized in January 2014 as the Erlun Story House, serving as a cultural base for sharing, recording, organizing, and creating local stories.

The opening hours are as follows:

Wednesdays, Thursdays, Fridays, Sundays, and national holidays: 09:00-17:00

Saturdays: 13:00-21:00 

During our exploration, we also tried Jian Bing filled with cabbage and meat. Unfortunately, it lacked seasoning, resulting in a rather bland taste.

Address:

1. Erlun Vegetable Market: 649雲林縣二崙鄉太平路1-11號號

2. Erlun Sports Park: 649雲林縣二崙鄉中正路101號

3. Erlun Story House: 649雲林縣二崙鄉中山路108號

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Miaoli One-Day Travel - Part 3: Longteng Bridge, Shengxing Station

Travel Date: 2024/04/20

This time, we embarked on a trip all the way south of Miaoli County. We live in the Toufen Zhunan Area, which is nearby Hsinchu. It was about a 120km scooter ride, leaving us super tired and sunburned, but it was truly enjoyable as we visited several places along the way. Our first stop was Tongxiao Shrine, a beautiful Japanese remnant. We wandered around and then walked to the memorial park above. The view from there was stunning, encompassing a vast expanse of Miaoli County, including the sea and mountains. Since it was noon, we also grabbed some food. The Sichuan-style beef noodles and luwei were particularly tasty.

Afterwards, we continued driving further south, arriving in Yuanli Township, situated on the border of Miaoli and Taichung. The old street was rather empty and not well-known, but there was one ancient house that many people visit. The house was large and exceptionally pretty; the owner kindly guided us around, explaining every little detail.

But our journey didn't end there. From the coastal area, we drove all the way to the mountainside. We passed by Hutoushan, also known as Fire Mountain in English. Though we didn't embark on a climb this time, perhaps we'll do so in the future. We then drove to Longtang Broken Bridge and explored the remains on both sides of the river. Having visited only one side in the past, it was a new experience to see both. From the bridge, we proceeded to Shengxing Station, nestled in the mountains. Though no longer in use, the area boasted several wooden houses, food stalls, and numerous tourists. From here, one can take the little train to Longteng Broken Bridge.

Initially planning to head back home, we realized it was already around the time the night market in Miaoli City opened. As we passed by, we decided to stop and visit the children's park then went on to find some foo. That marked the end of our trip. From the time we set out until we returned home, it had been a journey of around 9-10 hours.

See also:

Tongxiao Shrine LINK

Cai Family's Ancient House LINK

Longteng Broken Bridge (龍騰斷橋(魚藤坪斷橋))

Longteng Broken Bridge, was originally named Yutengping Bridge. It's situated in Longteng Village, Sanyi Township, Miaoli County. Constructed in 1907, just before the inauguration of the through-line railway (later known as the Taichung Line), this bridge is a remarkable fusion of brick, steel plate beams, and truss beams. It represents a pinnacle of engineering technology in early 20th-century Taiwan, earning recognition as a symbol of the nation's industrial progress.

Designed by Hyoutaro Inagaki and overseen by American engineers Theodore Cooper and Charles Conrad Schneider, the bridge spans the Yutengping Creek, a tributary of the Jingshan Creek. Its arches and steel girders showcase a blend of traditional masonry techniques and modern steel construction. Notably, the bricks for the arches were transported from Taipei, a testament to the logistical challenges of construction in remote areas.

The Yutengping Broken Bridge endured significant damage during the Hsinchu-Taichung Earthquake of 1935, rendering it impassable. Subsequent assessments revealed extensive structural issues, prompting authorities to abandon plans for restoration. Instead, a new bridge, the Yutengping Iron Bridge, was constructed nearby in 1938, utilizing modern engineering techniques.

In recognition of its historical significance, the Yutengping Broken Bridge was designated as a cultural heritage site by the Miaoli County Government and the Executive Yuan's Cultural Construction Committee. Despite its designation, the bridge fell into disrepair over the years, exacerbated by natural disasters like earthquakes and typhoons.

Efforts to preserve the bridge gained momentum in the early 2000s, with organizations like the Yu Zhaozhong Foundation advocating for its protection. In 2001, it was named one of the "Top Ten Civil and Historical Sites in Taiwan" by various engineering and cultural institutions. Subsequently, the Miaoli County Government undertook initiatives to reinforce and repair the bridge, culminating in a significant restoration project in 2022.

The restoration project aimed to address structural issues and safeguard the bridge for future generations. However, controversies arose regarding the design of the reinforcement brackets, prompting clarification from local authorities. Despite these challenges, the restoration efforts underscored the bridge's enduring cultural and historical significance.

Today, the Yutengping Broken Bridge stands as a testament to Taiwan's industrial heritage, blending architectural ingenuity with natural beauty. As a designated historic site, it serves as a poignant reminder of the nation's past achievements and the ongoing efforts to preserve its rich cultural legacy.

Shengxing Station (舊山線鐵道自行車-勝興站)

Shengxing Railway Station, nestled in Sanyi Township, Miaoli County, holds the distinction of being the highest point along the Western Railway, boasting an altitude of 402.326 meters above sea level. This historic station, built in 1906, features a wooden structure with a distinctive Japanese-style design, believed to ward off malevolent spirits and invoke blessings.

The station played a pivotal role in the region's transportation network for over a century, witnessing the transition from steam locomotives to modern train operations. During its operational years, it served as a vital stop along the Jiushan Line of the Taiwan Railway Administration.

Over time, as railway routes were altered and modernized, Shengxing Station faced changes in its operational status. After the final southbound train departed on September 23, 1998, signaling the end of an era, the station transformed into a cherished landmark and tourist destination.

Today, visitors to Shengxing Station are greeted with nostalgic scenes. Despite the cessation of regular train services, the station remains steeped in history, preserved as a county-designated historic site since April 16, 1999.

In 2010, the Jiushan Line resumed service, albeit with limited train operations, marking a significant milestone in the station's journey. Special nostalgic train rides, such as the "CK124 Old Mountain Line Style Half-Day Tour," were introduced to celebrate the railway's legacy and promote tourism in the region.

The station's wooden building, adorned with traditional architectural elements, stands as a testament to Taiwan's railway heritage. A stone monument within the station commemorates its lofty altitude, serving as a reminder of the station's significance in the region's transportation history.

Surrounded by attractions like Shengxing Old Street, the Ancient Firewood Trail, and scenic railway routes, Shengxing Station continues to draw visitors seeking to immerse themselves in Taiwan's rich cultural and historical tapestry. As a symbol of resilience and preservation, it stands as a testament to the enduring legacy of Taiwan's railway heritage.

Before making our way back home, we made a brief stop at the children's park and the Miaoli night market. The park featured slides, climbing areas, a sandbox, and adorable Kitty sculptures. Adjacent to the park were two old tanks, adding a unique touch to the surroundings.

I highly recommend trying the BBQ at the park entrance, especially if you enjoy the flavors of Tainan. Additionally, at the opposite corner's entrance, there's BBQ corn available, which is equally delicious.

Despite the enjoyable time, I ended up with quite a sunburn, as the sun remained on the same side of my body throughout the journey back and forth. My legs were particularly red that day - an unintended souvenir of our adventure haha

 

Address:

1. South Site of the Broken Bridge: 367苗栗縣三義鄉龍騰斷橋

2. North Site of the Broken Bridge: 367苗栗縣三義鄉苗49鄉道

3. Shengxing Station: 367苗栗縣三義鄉83號

4. Children's Park: 360苗栗縣苗栗市玉清路351號

5. Night Market: 360苗栗縣苗栗市英才路

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