Steeped in Tradition: Unraveling the History of Tea and its Production Process

Tea culture in Taiwan is rich and encompasses tea arts and traditional ceremonies. Tea shops can be found throughout the country, offering a variety of tea options.

It is interesting to note that wild tea trees were first discovered in Taiwan over 300 years ago, although they were not initially cultivated for consumption as they are today. Approximately 200 years ago, Taiwanese people brought tea trees from Fujian, China, and planted them in the northern part of Taiwan. Since then, tea has become immensely popular and is cultivated all across the country.

Taiwan's climate is ideal for tea cultivation, with its high mountain ranges, abundant sunshine, and plentiful rainfall. These factors contribute to the growth of some of the best teas in the world. The flavor of tea is influenced by the oxidation and fermentation time, as well as the specific location where the tea is grown, resulting in unique and distinct flavors.

History of tea in North of Taiwan 

During the 1860s, Tamsui was established as a harbor, which facilitated the importation of tea varieties, tea masters, and workers from Fujian, China by foreign businessmen. Tea leaves started to be grown in the northern part of Taiwan, particularly in Hsinchu, on a large scale. In 1876, the Qing Dynasty encouraged the cultivation of tea trees. Liu Ming-chuan, Taiwan's governor from 1885 to 1891, further supported the tea industry and implemented improvements in the production process.

During the Qing Dynasty, tea grown in Taoyuan and Hsinchu was transported by porters to Daxi and Hsinchu, and then carried through river and sea transportation to Tamsui and Dadaocheng. The introduction of railways during the Japanese occupation period facilitated tea transport.

During the Japanese era, the government focused on improving tea varieties and production techniques, providing support and protection to the tea industry. This included establishing laboratories, schools, model tea gardens, and offering subsidies for the construction of tea factories and facilities. As a result, the tea industry in Hsinchu expanded significantly. Many small tea businesses merged into medium and large tea companies, leading to improvements in tea production and quality. Notable tea factories, such as the Jiang Family in Beipu and the Lo Family in Guansi, emerged during this period. The Formosa Black Tea Co. Ltd., founded by the Lo Family in Guansi in 1937, became the second-largest Taiwanese tea manufacturer during the Japanese colonial era.

See also: Fuxing Tea Factory

Development of tea industry after war  

After the end of World War II in 1945, Taiwan's tea industry, which had been severely affected by the war, experienced a revival. While tea-producing countries were still recovering from the war's impact, Taiwan's tea quickly gained a favorable position in the global export market. This period was considered the golden age of tea. However, with the resumption of tea production in countries such as India, Sri Lanka, and Java, Taiwan's black tea faced increasing competition. Green tea gained popularity, prompting many tea factories in Hsinchu to acquire new machines and facilities for green tea production. By the 1960s, Taiwan's green tea could no longer compete with teas from China and Japan. To address this, the Formosa Black Tea Co. Ltd. took the lead in importing tea production machines from Japan and shared Japanese tea production techniques with others in the industry.

In the 1970s and 1980s, a significant amount of Taiwan's green tea was exported to Japan. However, with Taiwan's rapid economic growth from 1981 onwards, many young people migrated to cities, resulting in an aging population of tea farmers. Consequently, many tea farmers abandoned tea mountains and pursued alternative livelihoods. Nantou emerged as the county with the largest tea production volume, surpassing Hsinchu in 1989.

In 1998, the first "Beipu Pong-Feng Festival" was held, jointly organized by the Council of Agriculture, Hsinchu County Government, Beipu Township Farmers' Association, tea farmers in Beipu, and local cultural offices. The festival successfully packaged and marketed Pong-Feng Tea in the context of Hakka culture, leading to the revival of the tea industry in Beipu. The first Hakka Pounded Tea house was established in Beipu in 1999, and today, there are around 60 tea houses. Similar industrial and cultural activities were held in Emei in 2000-2001, contributing to the revitalization of the tea industry in Hsinchu.

Main types of teas

In Taiwan, you can find five main types of tea: white, green, oolong, black, and puer tea. Among these, oolong tea is the most commonly consumed in Taiwan.

Oolongs (烏龍茶) 

Oolong teas are semi-oxidized teas. The production process involves withering the tea leaves under strong sunlight and oxidation before curling and twisting them. Some of the most famous oolong teas include Alishan, Lishan, Dongfang Meiren (Oriental Beauty), and Jin Xuan. Oolong teas are typically brewed with water at a temperature of 93-96 degrees Celsius for 2-3 minutes. A general guideline is to use 3 grams of tea per 200 ml of water. The traditional ceremony for steeping oolong tea is called gongfucha, where a small vessel with a larger amount of tea is used. The tea is brewed multiple times for 20-60 seconds and served in small tea cups.

Green teas (綠茶) 

Green teas  are unoxidized teas with a stronger flavor. The water temperature for brewing green tea should be between 61 and 87 degrees Celsius, as higher temperatures can result in a bitter flavor. Typically, 2 grams of tea is used per 100 ml of water, and the steeping time ranges from 30 seconds to 3 minutes.

White tea (白茶) 

White tea  is made from young or minimally processed tea leaves, including buds and immature leaves. Brewed white tea has a pale yellow color.

Black tea (紅茶)

Black tea is more oxidized than oolongs, green teas, and white teas. In Chinese, it is called red tea due to its color after brewing. Black tea retains its flavor for several years, making it suitable for trade and serving as "currency" in Mongolia, Tibet, and Siberia during the 19th century. In the West, black teas account for 90% of all teas sold. For brewing black tea, it is recommended to use 4 grams of tea per 200 ml of water at a temperature of 90-95 degrees Celsius. The brewing time is 60 seconds, 40 seconds, and 60 seconds for each subsequent infusion, gradually increasing the time.

Puer tea (普洱茶)

Puer tea is a type of fermented tea, also known as dark tea (黑茶). The tea production process involves microbial fermentation and oxidation of the tea leaves after they have been dried and rolled. Puer tea can be sold in its "rough" maocha (毛茶) form or pressed into different shapes as "raw" shengcha (生茶).

See also: Guanxi Tea Factory

Naming of Oriental Beauty Tea

Originally, Oriental Beauty Tea (Pong-Feng Tea) was known as Taiwan Oolong Tea. Oolong tea is a fermented tea similar to black tea and is made from young buds with white tips. Therefore, it is also referred to as Baihau (white-tip) Oolong Tea, Champagne Oolong Tea, or Pong-Feng Tea.

According to legend, some tea gardens were invaded and damaged by insect pests. In order to avoid suffering significant losses, some tea farmers still brought their tea to the city for sale. Due to its special flavor, the tea became very popular and was quickly purchased by trade companies. When tea farmers shared this story, they were accused of "pong-feng" (boasting). As a result, the tea was named Pong-Feng Tea.

See also: How to order tea in Chinese

Production of Oriental Beauty Tea 

Fresh Oriental Beauty Tea leaves have a golden color. After refinement, the tea leaves have white tips and a colorful appearance, with shades of red, white, yellow, brown, and green. It is also traditionally referred to as "green leaf with red fringe." The tea is composed of one bud and two leaves that curl up like a flower. When brewed, the tea has an amber color and a natural fruity and honey fragrance.

Oriental Beauty Tea must be planted in a leeward and humid environment with sufficient sunlight and no pollution. The main production areas of Oriental Beauty Tea in Taiwan are Hsinchu (Beipu and Emei) and Miaoli (Toufen and Touwu), which are known for producing the highest quality and most famous Oriental Beauty Tea.

The best time to produce Oriental Beauty Tea is around the Dragon Boat Festival in early June. The tea leaves are carefully picked, usually using the one-bud-two-leaves method, and refined using traditional skills. Oriental Beauty Tea requires at least three times the amount of leaves compared to other tea varieties, making its production more challenging and limited in quantity.

Tea Production process 

1. Fresh tea leaves

Tea leaves are carefully picked from tea trees, with different parts of the leaves selected depending on the specific tea variety.

2. Withering 

Withering can be done through sunlight or hot air exposure, which evaporates water from the leaves and lowers cell activity. This allows for the fermentation of chemical components, particularly catechin. The leaves are then stirred and placed indoors for further withering.

3. Blanching 

There are two methods of blanching, either parching or steaming. In Taiwan, parching is predominantly used. High temperatures are employed to halt enzyme activity and prevent continuous fermentation, preserving the tea leaves' special fragrance and softening their texture for easier rolling.

4. Rolling 

There are two methods of rolling, either using a rolling machine or manually pressing and rolling the leaves wrapped in cloth. Rolling results in the leaves taking on roll, spherical, and hemispherical shapes, with some tea leaf tissues being destroyed, making them more suitable for brewing.

5. Separation

After rolling, the tea leaves may be intertwined, making drying challenging. Prior to the drying process, the leaves need to be separated.

6. Drying

Tea leaves are dried in a machine dryer, where high temperatures restrain the remaining enzyme activity. Once dried, the tea is referred to as "crude tea" or "raw tea" and requires further refinement to become a quality tea product.

See also: Chrysanthemum Tea

The tea ceremony (gongfucha) 

The Gongfucha tea ceremony holds great significance in Taiwanese culture. It involves the rituals of tea preparation and presentation. Tea masters undergo years of study to perfect this method, with attention to chemistry and temperature being crucial for brewing excellent tea.

The flavor and aroma of brewed tea can be influenced by the quality and fragrance of the water used. Distilled water is not recommended as it lacks essential minerals that enhance the tea's flavor. Additionally, water temperature plays a vital role in extracting the essential oils of the tea.

The ceremony involves various stages, including warming cups, rinsing tea leaves with hot water, and brewing the tea. It is common for Taiwanese households to possess at least one set of tea ware, and collecting teapots is a popular hobby among tea enthusiasts.

The necessary items for making tea include a brewing vessel, tea pitcher, brewing tray, water kettle, tea towel, spoon, cups, a calligraphy-style brush with a wooden handle, scent cups, and a tea spoon for measurement.

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Popularity of sweet potatoes in Taiwan

What really are Sweet potatoes?  

Sweet potatoes (Ipomoea batatas) are highly popular in Taiwan. Interestingly, this crop did not originate from Taiwan or Asia, but rather from America. Although it is referred to as a "sweet potato," it is not related to regular potatoes (Solanum tuberosum in Latin).

Ipomoea batatas is native to tropical regions of America. Within the Convolvulaceae family, which consists mostly of herbaceous vines but also includes trees, shrubs, and herbs, there are approximately 50 genera and over 1,000 species. However, Ipomoea batatas is the only crop plant of significant importance worldwide. It is worth noting that many other species within the Convolvulaceae family are actually poisonous.

Sweet potatoes are primarily utilized as a root vegetable, although the young leaves and shoots can also be consumed as greens. The edible tuberous root is long and tapered, featuring a smooth skin that can be yellow, orange, red, brown, purple, or beige. The flesh of sweet potatoes can range in color from beige and white to red, pink, violet, yellow, orange, and purple.

The origin and domestication of sweet potatoes are believed to be in Central or South America, between the Yucatán Peninsula of Mexico and the mouth of the Orinoco River in Venezuela. Sweet potatoes were domesticated in Central America at least 5,000 years ago. They are now cultivated in tropical and warm temperate regions wherever there is sufficient water to support their growth.

After Christopher Columbus discovered the Americas, he introduced sweet potatoes to Isabella I of Castile in 1493 and later to the Island of Hispaniola (Haiti/Dominican Republic) in 1508. Sweet potatoes adapted well to the Spanish climate, and their sweet taste made them popular in Europe. During that time, sweet potatoes were considered a delicacy among the wealthy and were even believed to possess medicinal effects. Europeans believed that sweet potatoes could accelerate menstrual periods and stimulate milk production in women, while also acting as an aphrodisiac for men. Henry VIII of England, for instance, was convinced of the aphrodisiac effect and particularly enjoyed sweet potato pies with spices and sugar.

Sweet Potatoes in Taiwan

In Taiwan, the sweet potato may have been introduced via the Philippines (which was a Spanish colony) to Fujian province. Chen Zhenlong brought sweet potatoes back from Luzon Island in the 1580s. The cultivation of sweet potatoes was encouraged by Governor Chin Hsüeh-tseng. After its introduction to China, sweet potatoes spread mainly in Fujian and Guangdong during the first hundred years. As sweet potatoes helped save the Chinese people from a major crop failure, they began to spread to Jiangxi, Hunan, and Zhejiang in the 17th century. By the middle of the 18th century, sweet potatoes had also reached the Yellow River Basin and further north. However, when sweet potatoes were grown in northern regions, it was necessary to dig up the roots and store them in cellars during winter for preservation.

Sweet potatoes are a high-yielding and resilient crop, suitable for cultivation in the southern area of the Nanling Mountains almost every year. A relief book titled "Saving the Famine," written at the end of the nineteenth century, stated that sweet potatoes could be planted from January to August and harvested from the summer solstice to the beginning of winter.

The exact time of sweet potato introduction to Taiwan is not clear. The first recorded instance of sweet potato cultivation in Taiwan was mentioned by Chen Di in his book "Dōng Fān Jì," written in 1603, suggesting that sweet potatoes were already being grown in Taiwan prior to that time. However, sweet potatoes were not used as a staple food during that period and were instead classified as vegetables.

Gradually, sweet potatoes became a staple food for aboriginal people. The Bunun tribe (布農) even included the planting of sweet potatoes in April and the Sweet Potato Festival (moraniyan/masuadhutan, held in November/December) in their calendar. During the Dutch colonial era, the Dutch did not show much interest in sweet potatoes, instead focusing on encouraging indigenous people to cultivate rice and sugarcane. Ironically, it was sweet potatoes that helped Koxinga defeat the Dutch. Koxinga and his army besieged Fort Zeelandia for nine months, relying on the cultivation of sweet potatoes. There is also a legend suggesting that Koxinga invented oyster omelettes.

To prolong the shelf life of sweet potatoes, Taiwanese people developed a method of long-term storage. They grated sweet potatoes and sun-dried them, enabling dried grated sweet potatoes to be stored for at least a year. Dried grated sweet potatoes accompanied Taiwanese people throughout the Qing Dynasty, the Japanese occupation period, and the early stages of Chinese Nationalist rule.

Just before World War II, the Japanese discovered that sweet potato starch could be fermented to produce ethanol, methanol, butanol, and acetone. A plant for producing these organic solvents was established in Chiayi, but it was destroyed by the US Army Air Force during the war. At that time, sweet potatoes also served as a substitute for staple foods.

The most prosperous period of sweet potato cultivation in Taiwan was between 1950 and 1970. During this time, the cultivated area ranged from 200,000 to 400,000 hectares, and the annual output was between 200 and 340 million metric tons. Sweet potatoes were mainly used as livestock feed and as a supplement to staple foods. The Agriculture and Food Agency promoted the "Three Agriculture Policies" (millets, pig raising, and rice farming). Winter-grown sweet potatoes were utilized to feed pigs, and pig manure was used as compost to enhance rice production.

Over time, sweet potatoes gradually disappeared from the daily diet. The proportion of sweet potatoes as a staple food decreased from 40% in 1945 to 25% in the 1950s and 1960s, and further dropped to 19% in 1965. Meanwhile, the use of sweet potatoes as livestock feed increased from 35% to 50%. However, imported corn eventually replaced sweet potatoes in livestock feed, leading to a decline in the planting area of sweet potatoes. In recent years, sweet potatoes have experienced a resurgence in consumption as a staple food and leafy vegetable, reflecting a growing trend toward healthier diets. As a result, sweet potatoes have become the second most important crop after rice in Taiwan.

Why Taiwanese are called “Sweet Potatoes”?

The first person to propose in official literature that the island of Taiwan is shaped like a sweet potato is likely Professor Yasumoto Yamamoto. In addition to describing the shape of Taiwan using sweet potatoes, he also made references to eucalyptus leaves. According to oral history collected by history scholar Xu Xueji during the Japanese occupation era, this nickname probably originated during that time. Taiwanese individuals who traveled to areas of China controlled by Japan for work faced a difficult situation: on the one hand, they were regarded as pro-China by the Japanese; on the other hand, they were seen as pro-Japanese by the Chinese. As a result, they often refrained from revealing that they came from Taiwan and instead used the nickname "sweet potatoes" to identify themselves.

Another possible reason for the nickname is that people from other provinces came to Taiwan and noticed that sweet potatoes were a staple food among Taiwanese people. They then nicknamed the Taiwanese as "sweet potatoes" and joked that eating sweet potatoes made them dull. When people from other provinces first arrived in Taiwan, they couldn't differentiate between sweet potatoes and taro, often mistakenly purchasing taro instead of sweet potatoes. This led to people from the other provinces being nicknamed "taro".

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Visiting Temples in Yunlin

There are plenty of temples scattered throughout Taiwan, but not all of them may be considered interesting or captivating. However, I'd like to introduce two temples in Yunlin that I found beautiful.

Cih Guang Temple (劍湖山慈光寺)

Cih Guang Temple is a Japanese-style temple located in the mountains of Gukeng. In the vicinity, you can also find coffee shops where you can enjoy the beautiful mountain view. The architectural style of this temple differs from the ones I have typically visited. It may not be as colorful, but the presence of the lake and elephant statues guarding the entrance creates a serene and picturesque atmosphere.

While there isn't much information available about this temple, and it may be perceived as just one among the many temples in Taiwan, I still found it to be a peaceful and beautiful place. Perhaps over time, the excitement of visiting temples might fade, similar to how one might not feel inclined to visit numerous churches if they have already seen plenty in the past.

Chifa Matsu Temple (持法媽祖宮)

Chifa Matsu Temple in Huwei is a temple that I find exceptionally beautiful. This is my second visit, as I greatly admire this place. Although I don't possess much knowledge about Buddhism, I appreciate the unique architectural designs of the buildings within the temple.

Surrounding the temple, you can observe various plants, a small fish pond, and stunning water lilies. The plants found in the temple grounds are quite expensive and plentiful.

Additionally, the temple is encompassed by rice fields, which was a novel sight for me. While I felt excited to see the rice fields, my husband found my enthusiasm a bit peculiar, as he perceives rice as a common plant among many others.

During our visit, there was another part of the temple being constructed on the opposite side of the road, although it remained unfinished at the time.

Address: 

1. Chifa Matsu Temple: 632雲林縣虎尾鎮西園46號持法媽祖宮
2. Cih Guang Temple: 646雲林縣古坑鄉劍湖山慈光寺

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Popular street food of Huwei, Yunlin

1. Chinese herb Duck Noodles 

While in Huwei, you shouldn't miss the opportunity to try the most famous duck noodle shop in town. The soup made with Chinese herbs is incredibly tasty, and the shop is always bustling with people.

The Chinese herbs used in the soup include jujube, ginger, goji berries, ginseng, and others. The duck is seasoned and cooked slowly over a low fire to bring out its flavors. Additionally, the noodles served in the shop are homemade by the owners, making the experience and taste truly unique.

The soup is especially satisfying on a cold day, providing a warm and comforting feeling. While the shop is renowned for its duck noodle soup, they also offer a few other dishes. One specialty is their unique method of preparing duck hearts.

Their dried noodles are also exceptional and definitely worth a try.

2. Beef Noodle soup

Another favorite dish in Taiwan is beef noodle soup, which is considered a national dish.

The beef is cooked for an extended period, resulting in tender and flavorful meat. The Chinese herb seasoning in this soup is particularly delicious. The shop in Huwei is my personal favorite, as their meat is always cooked to perfection.

The shop offers different flavors of beef noodles to choose from, as well as other dishes such as kimchi soup (which has an interesting taste), braised rice, or dumplings. The beef soup can also be served with dumplings instead of noodles.

3. Rice cakes 

There are two famous shops in town that specialize in serving rice cakes.

The rice cakes are steamed and topped with minced meat and sauce. The traditional ones used to include additional ingredients like egg yolk, chestnut, and mush

4. Cong you bing 

Cong You Bing is a pancake made with dough and minced scallions, with an egg covering one side. The pancakes are quite large, and you can purchase half of one for only 30 TWD.

5. Dumplings 

The traditional steamed dumplings are incredibly delicious and have a juicy filling.

6. Candied sweet potatoes 

Sweet potatoes are cooked in a sweet syrup, resulting in a strong, sweet flavor.

7. Xian Bing (Chinese pork pie)

For a modest price of 10-15 TWD, you can try these "bread-like" snacks. They can be filled with spring onion, leek, red beans, or pork meat.

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Sweet Heritage: Exploring the Sugar Factory of Huwei, Yunlin

Huwei has become my home, and I have explored nearly every corner of this town. However, I must admit that this small town doesn't captivate me as much anymore. Perhaps it's because I have been walking the same streets and seeing the same buildings for the past few months, and nothing surprises me anymore.

However, for travelers, there are still several places worth visiting in Huwei, such as the Painted Village, Chifa Mazu Temple, Cake Towel Cafe, Sugar Factory, and Nongbo Park.

During the sugar cane season, which typically occurs around December, I had the chance to witness an old train transporting sugar canes to the nearby factory. This train only operates for about 2-3 months when the factory begins sugar production. Unfortunately, I missed the opportunity to visit the factory itself.

See also: Huwei Puppet Museum

History of Huwei Sugar Factory 

Huwei Sugar Factory (虎尾糖廠) was built in 1907. The first workshop was officially started in 1909, with a daily crushing of 3,300 metric tons of sugar cane. The second workshop of the Huwei Sugar Factory was built in 1912, with a daily crushing capacity of 1,600 metric tons of sugar cane. In 1924, the first workshop was expanded to increase the total crushing capacity to 4,900 metric tons, making it the most productive sugar plant in Taiwan. In 1925, the largest alcohol workshop in the region was added. In 1937, equipment for anhydrous alcohol manufacturing was also installed. However, the factory was closed in 1962.

During World War II, the sugar plant was heavily bombarded, resulting in significant damage to both the first and second factories. Due to the severity of the damage, repairs were prioritized on the second workshop, which had suffered less. By the end of 1945, sugar production resumed. In 1947, repairs were completed on the first workshop, and sugar production resumed that same year. However, due to a decline in sugarcane planting area, the second workshop was shut down in 1961, while the crushing capacity of the first workshop was reduced to 3,500 metric tons. In 1967, the Huwei, Beigang, and Douliu Sugar Factories were reorganized into a large factory system. In 1972, the Dalin Sugar Factory came under the management of the Huwei General Factory once again. The alcohol workshop was closed in September 1976, and the equipment was transferred to the new by-product processing plant. In 1990, the Douliou Sugar Factory was also incorporated into the Huwei General Plant. Since 2004, the official name of the factory is Huwei Sugar Factory.

Huwei Sugar Factory is one of the three traditional sugar factories in Taiwan, alongside Xinying Sugar Factory and Pingtung Sugar Factory. Currently, Huwei Sugar Factory is still engaged in the sugar business and is one of the two sugar factories still in operation, with the other being the Shanhua Sugar Factory in Tainan.

Near the factory, you can also visit the Huwei Bridge. This historical steel railroad bridge was once used to transport sugar cane. It served as the most important traffic line during the early years of Huwei and was the bustling city center during the Japanese occupation. Although the bridge is no longer in use, it remains a popular attraction in Huwei.

Another place to explore is Tongxin Park, where you can find remnants of Japanese-style wooden houses, although most of them are now in a collapsed state. These buildings were originally constructed as housing for sugar factory workers in the past.

Address:

632雲林縣虎尾鎮中山路2號虎尾糖廠

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